Trip to Bandipur and Nilgiris – off the beaten track Although I have benefitted immensely from the experts here in Team-BHP, this is the first time that I am writing my own post. I hope this benefits anyone planning a short group-getaway to the Nilgiris from Bangalore.
We planned an extended weekend getaway to coincide with the Apr 4 holiday here in Bangalore. We were a total of 12 family members, including 3 teens, who were traveling in three cars. And since we had senior citizens as well as several ladies in the group, we intended to drive less and stay more. With the summer already upon us, we wanted to head to the hills for a ‘cool’ get-away.
After scouring the net for several days, we zeroed in on a 5D/4N vacation to the Nilgiris. Since a couple of family members were very keen on a jungle safari, I decided to include the Mudumalai or Bandipur sanctuary in our plans. An important criterion for us was to find a place that allowed us to stay together as a group – that is when you get the most out of a group tour. Somehow, I am not a keen fan of staying at hotels & lodges.
So, after pouring thru Tripadvisor.in and HolidayIQ.com, and going through the travelogues here in Team-BHP, I finalized on the trip plan below:
• Day 1: Stay at Mudumalai – finalized on ‘Green Woods Nature Camp’ as our stop-over
• Days 2 – 5: Stay at Devashola estates, off Coonoor / Ooty
Places intended as sight-seeing:
• Mudumalai / Bandipur safari
• Avalanche & Emerald lakes (off Ooty)
• Trekking amidst the tea-estates of Devashola
While I will not go into a detailed travelogue, here is a summary of our 5 day trip. I will let the pictures do the talking at the end: Highlights- The best part of our visit was the home-stay at Devashola Estates; we stayed at the sprawling bungalow called Sultana Cottage right amidst lush greenery. Early mornings were ushered in with the bird-calls from a rich variety of the avian species. During the day, whenever we ventured out into the estate, we got to see groups of bison, grazing on the grass amidst the tea plantations. And the rest of the time was spent lazing around on the swing, hammock or the rocking chair in our balconies overlooking the Nilgiris hills.
While Devashola has several bungalows, the best is the Mango-Tree bungalow, perched right atop a hill. The view from this place is simply magnificent. Unfortunately, this place was booked by the time I tried; we only got to see this place when the estate folks took us on a jeep safari. Do note that this place is far too remote to club the stay with any plans to make short trips to sight-seeing spots…obviously, you won’t feel the need once you reach this heaven on earth.
The other best part was the trip to Emerald Lake, amidst the Red Hills. The entire Red Hills area is cordoned off against development of any kind and hence you will find no hotels, restaurants or resorts, and definitely no tourists! Unfortunately, this also means that the roads are completely deserted, ill-maintained, and unless you are the adventurous kind, you may fear to treat the last 7 – 8 kms leading to the lakes. For us, since we were traveling with ladies and senior citizens, we aborted our drive just 5 kms before reaching Avalanche lake, and instead, just picnicked on one of the smaller lakes in Red Hills area. Only after we had packed up and were all set to go to our home-stay did we come across a few local lads who extolled the virtues of the pristine Avalanche lake and encouraged us to go the next few kms to reach the place. Unfortunately, since it was getting dark, we did not venture out.
My sincere advice to anyone intending to visit Avalanche will be to pack a picnic hamper and leave from Ooty/Coonoor early and do go the 20 km distance to Avalanche. I am sure you will not forget the place. There is a homestay run by the Vijaykumars there and so it is not like the place is entirely desolate… Lowlights After seeing and staying at pristine natural spots around the Nilgiris, the two trips we made to the cities of Ooty and Coonoor were the most disappointing. The places are so crowded, congested and commercialized that I find Bangalore to be better in terms of breathing space! And if you have to do boating or visit the Botanical gardens, the one back home at Lumbini and Lalbagh are a great alternative.
The other lowlight was that we found the Mudumalai sanctuary closed for the summer. So, we had to make do with the more expensive (Rs 300 against Rs 45) jungle safari at Bandipur. I have made this safari a couple of times in the past and this time too, my experience was similar:
• We got to see peacocks, deer – Cheetal & Sambar, hares, and finally some elephants during the safari. And we had to strain our necks and jostle amongst ourselves to get turns to see through the bus windows. And after the tiring safari in a rickety bus, we got back to the main roads in our cars.
• And this time we saw lots more elephants!, peacocks, lion tailed macaques, monkeys, wild boars, cheetals and sambhars – in lot more numbers, and a lot, lot closer, right off the main roads!
This is no sour-grapes, but folks, if you are visiting Mudumali/Bandipur, simply avoid the Jungle Safari. Instead, drive through the forest roads (but be sure to follow all regulations) and get to spot some beautiful wildlife.
Overall, when in the Nilgiris, avoid the tourist trail…there is so much pristine beauty to be experienced off the beaten track! |