Udaipur
Both mum and dad decided to hire a rick for sight-seeing, so I didn't have much say. The hotel arranged for a rick and the driver turned out to be quite a character. While he gave his interpretation of history at all places, while he wasn't talking to us, he seemed to be having abstract conversations - with hand gestures once in a while!
He mentioned how good our timing was since monsoon had just hit Udaipur. A week earlier, Lake Pichola was dry!
Our tour started with a trip to the Lake Palace. Apparently since a few years, people are not allowed to visit it (this Palace is in the middle of the lake). So, we had a look at it from far. Just at this point, there is a ropeway to the "Shri Manshapurna Karni Mata Temple". Thru' it you can travel to the Temple which is located high up on a hill. The ropeway is a nice ride to the top, just before the temple. The Temple as such isn't a big deal but then hey! this is India so a temple is a temple. We took a short walk to the Temple, waited for our turn on the ropeway (quite well-managed) and got back.
We next went to Udaipur Palace - one huge, regal structure. About 2/3rd of the Palace is now under Govt. control and open for public. The current royalty stays in the remaining 1/3rd. The Palace is just amazing - beautiful architecture and design. We hired a guide here; he showed us around with some history thrown in. The Palace took a couple of hours to go around! The Maharajas' sure lived in immense royalty - quite evident in the aesthetics and adornments in the rooms. In front of the Palace is a nice garden which had turned into a picnic spot.
On the lane leading up to the Palace, there is the Jagdish Temple. With a quick visit to this Temple, we asked the rickwallah to take us to a good restaurant for lunch. And he obliged! So with the stomach filled up, we went next to Gulab Garden. There was a decent variety of roses maintained in the garden. After some flower display, we went to SAHELION - KI - BARI Garden. A garden dedicated to the Maids of Honour to the Queen, the garden is a healthy mix of flowers, fountains and pools. We had a good stroll there, took pictures and head out. Our driver, lost in his abstract world muttered something about "Sukhadia Circle" while travelling and moved on.
As the last sightseeing point, we went to "Pratap Smarak (Memorial)"; dedicated to Maharana Pratap. It has a statue of him on his favorite horse "Chetak". The memorial is on a small hill overlooking Fateh Sagar Lake.
Once we returned to the auto, the driver said we'd seen enough of Udaipur and took us to the market to indulge mum in some shopping. He took us to a Rajasthan Govt. approved shop which had tons of items (saris, bedsheets and what not) made of silk and other materials. Here, the sales guy showed mum a sari which when dipped in starch (or starched) had a nice fragrance. Mum eventually bought one and soon we were out of that shop.
We returned to our hotel which itself was tastefully built. Spent a relaxed evening and called it a day.
Day 5 had ended in Rajasthan.
Now as day 6 dawned, I had had quite a bit of history. From my earlier experience of roaming around Manipal, I knew too many things too soon make the whole thing a drag so I had been mentally making notes of the plan to Gurgaon. All this while my folks were busy taking directions from the hotel manager for landmarks around Udaipur. Not that I wasn't keen on checking out the other places, I had started not remembering names and all palaces seemed alike to me!
The day's itinerary included Haldighati, Ekling Mandir and Nathdwara. So, off we set - this time in our car. We first went to Haldighati. This is where a very famous battle between Rana Pratap Singh of Mewar and Raja Man Singh of Amber was fought. The place takes its name from the turmeric-coloured soil, said to be so from all the blood shed. At Haldighati, there is a museum-memorial built and they air a short video on the history of the place. A few kms away, there is a memorial where Chetak, Pratap Singh's horse breathed his last. We took a short drive here and then set off for our next destination : Nathdwara. The history of Nathdwara is as follows : "According to the legend, the image of Lord Shrinath ji was enshrined in Vrindavan (land of Lord Krishna), but to protect the idol from the destructive rage of Aurangzeb. In 1672, Rana Raj Singh was the only gallant, who made an effort to rescue the idol from the domain of Aurangzeb. It is said that when the image was being shifted to an impervious place then at a particular place, the wheel of vehicle sank deep down in mud. The image refused to move further, so the escorting priest apprehended that this was Lord's chosen spot. Thus, a temple was built on the same spot."
When we reached, the temple was closed because "it was time for God's afternoon nap". As is the custom now, there was a general queue and another where a family had to pay 100 bucks for a quick darshan. I had recently been to Dharmastala in Karnataka where I had to stand in a similar queue so I told my parents that it wasn't worth waiting. But they persisted, we argued but it was 2:1 so I had to relent. So, we paid for a quick darshan and waited for 4pm when God was to wake up. I hope I don't offend anyone but I am amused at how silly we let ourselves be and how our religious faiths/beliefs make us really stupid. There were 2 junior priests who were swaying a rope which in turn went on to flap a cloth-fan in the room the idols were kept. The quick darshan was not going to be that quick since almost everyone was paying. Finally, the doors were being opened and then, hell broke loose.
Women, men ran towards the idols as if they had just the 1 sec to view it and the world would end. You see videos of stampedes at temples, right? Well, I saw one happening. Dad and I formed a cover for mum and guided her out. While I got the 1/1000 sec to have a look at the idol, I asked him, "How about giving these idiots some sense". Nevertheless, we got out safely. I just looked at my parents and I think going by their reaction, I had made my point! I'm sure none of us are going for such insane darshans again.
Anywho, we saw the other parts of the temple and signed off. On the way back, we stopped by Eklingji Temple : a much better managed but mostly under-restoration Temple. With that done, we headed back to Udaipur. Day 6 had come to an end.
Udaipur - Ajmer
On day 7, we set sights on the last place on our agenda - Ajmer. But yet again, folks had something else in mind. We first went to Shilpgram - a nice place where a Fair is held once a while. This had tiny shops selling Rajasthani cultural items; it had a nice village setup. A good place to visit. From then on, we were on to Chittorgarh.
As we approached Chittorgarh, people started following our car offering to be guides. One guy followed us on his bike from the foothills all the way to the entrance of Chittorgarh. Knowing we wouldn't have much idea of the place, we hired him. There was absolutely no place in the car now, with dad and his luggage. So while we were in the car, we guided us on his bike.
We then started soaking in the history of Chittorgarh - home to one of Rajasthan's valiant kings. If some stories evoked a sense of pride in our history, some stories evoked disgust and hatred at how the Mughals ruined it. Chittorgarh dates back to the Maurya empire at 7 AD and although many Hindu dynasties have held it at some point of time, it had been a Rajput stronghold. The city prospered thru' the will and might of the Rajput kings. However, a mughal emperor - Allaudin Khilji heard of the beauty of Queen Padmini and set to "conquer" her. Soon, a battle followed where the Rajputs lost to the mightier mughal army and all the ladies committed "Jauhar - self-immolation by jumping into fire" to avoid dishonour thru' the hands of the mughals.
Khilji then went on to destroy or rather disfigure every Hindu temple/establishment. You will find tons of temples where the archways are sliced, idols whose hands are cut off, temples which are destroyed. The mughals wrecked the city.
More info :
Chittorgarh - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
It makes one's blood boil to see the amount of destruction caused.
Anyway, moving on. Once thru' with the city of Chittorgarh, we set off for Ajmer. It was mid-afternoon and after a pleasant drive over 200kms, we reached Ajmer at around 6pm. We had relatives there so put up at their place.
Freshened up and they said it would be a good time to visit Pushkar. So, around 7pm, we set off for Pushkar. The lake had almost dried up and it was mostly filth that remained. People say Pushkar is mostly about the not-so-holy things so luckily it being night, we saw none of it. We visited a Hanuman temple there and came back. It had been a long long day and day 7 had just ended.
On day 8, we were early and went to Ajmer Dargah. We'd parked our car far away and travelled to the Dargah in a rick. Visited the place and got back home. Had a nice homely lunch after a week and then set sails for Final Destination : Gurgaon.
By about 1pm, we got back onto NH8 for the last home run - 370kms.
Ajmer - Gurgaon
All the fun highway drives were slowly becoming distant now as NH8 now had tons of trucks and a rough surface. From the well-behaved trucks until Gujarat, the ones now were mostly arrogant when it came to lane discipline. We took the Jaipur bypass and the stretch now was the Delhi-Jaipur highway. We had been on this route a few years ago and it was nice to drive. But now, trucks were driving all over the lanes and the road condition itself wasn't very good. The rains had vanished and the a/c came on.
Thru' a drive that dragged on, we finally reached Gurgaon at 5pm.
And thus, our trip thru' 4 states encompassing thru' splendid highways, rich culture, magnificent palaces, beautiful lakes and Royal grandiosity had just brought to our new door step.
It had been a terrific and memorable drive - 8 amazing days on the road - something I know by heart even 2 years down the line! What a way to shift base!
Statistics :
Pune - Gurgaon toll : ~ 1200 bucks
Pune - Gurgaon distance (all sightseeing included) : 1870 kms