[ebonho]

The alloys totally change the look of the bike. In a nice way.

Thank you for the cost break-up (I asked the same question on another thread).

Cheers, Doc

[aargee]

Originally Posted by ebonho

The alloys totally change the look of the bike. In a nice way.
Thank you for the cost break-up (I asked the same question on another thread).

Thank you Doc for the appreciation. It means a lot to me when coming from you

[rajeevsulu]

The alloys and tyres cost Rs.30299 today from Throttle and Thump

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by aargee

New problem: Gear gets struck at 2nd for no reason; this has happened for 2nd time with my limited riding time. That's the new trouble now.

That is the first time I have heard of the gearbox getting stuck. How does one resolve this, to get going again?

[aargee]

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

That is the first time I have heard of the gearbox getting stuck. How does one resolve this, to get going again?

No idea; perhaps I might've slotted the gear too hard instead of treating it gently as well without realizing this is not a forgiving Japanese. It happened an hour ago as well for a 10 Km ride with almost 1-1.5 Km unable to change the gear no matter the speed. It was 1st gear this time.

Without knowing how to replicate this issue to ASC, I'm skeptical taking it to them as I'm sure they'll be reluctant to open a JC & even if they do, they'll simply close stating everything is good.

[surjaonwheelz]

Originally Posted by aargee

Without knowing how to replicate this issue to ASC, I'm skeptical taking it to them as I'm sure they'll be reluctant to open a JC & even if they do, they'll simply close stating everything is good.

It's a fitment issue at the gear spindle. While replacing your side stand sensor they had to remove your LHS gear link lever. Re-fitment was not proper.

You need a 8mm spanner to loosen the pinch bolt, take it out and refit it at an angle forward, leaving enough room for up-shifts!

I'll try to share pics if you don't get it right. It's an external issue.

Happy DIY,
surjaonwheelz

[aargee]

Originally Posted by surjaonwheelz

It's a fitment issue at the gear spindle. While replacing your side stand sensor they had to remove your LHS gear link lever. Re-fitment was not proper

That's a super fantastic insight Sir

Will get that done today or tomorrow & post the before & after pictures for you.

I know how to get the chain adjusted {CBR, Rx & Interceptor}, also how to visually inspect & align it. But no matter what I do the chain always gets tightened at some spots, while becomes loose at other parts. This happens only with CBR & Interceptor, not with Rx. Any suggestions for getting an uniform tightness of the chain please?

Note: I also suspect the chain for this gear getting struck & hence seeking your opinion

[surjaonwheelz]

Originally Posted by aargee

I know how to get the chain adjusted {CBR, Rx & Interceptor}, also how to visually inspect & align it. But no matter what I do the chain always gets tightened at some spots, while becomes loose at other parts. This happens only with CBR & Interceptor, not with Rx. Any suggestions for getting an uniform tightness of the chain please?

Note: I also suspect the chain for this gear getting struck & hence seeking your opinion

No, I've not attempted that, I usually take it to my FNG. I check it by taking the bike off the stand, standing on both wheels. It's a heavy bike so you need assistance and then verify the slack.

Once the service center (RE) had tightened it more and we had to loosen it.

Happy riding,
surjaonwheelz

[jomson13]

Originally Posted by aargee

I know how to get the chain adjusted {CBR, Rx & Interceptor}, also how to visually inspect & align it. But no matter what I do the chain always gets tightened at some spots, while becomes loose at other parts. This happens only with CBR & Interceptor, not with Rx. Any suggestions for getting an uniform tightness of the chain please?

Note: I also suspect the chain for this gear getting struck & hence seeking your opinion

This is not an issue with the adjustment but is an issue with the actual chain.
I've faced this with my previous bike (Apache 200.
The tight spots on the chain are caused due to 'dead links'. These are jammed at a particular angle and do not move like they should. You can find these by parking the bike on the main stand and slowly rotating the rear wheel whilst checking movement between links.

The best solution is to get the entire chain out, soak it in a solvent (diesel), lube it and put it back.
I haven't tried this since I am apprehensive about tinkering about with the master link.
I focus my attention on these dead links, clean them with a bit more gusto and try to get them to move about a bit freely.
You also want to keep the slack on the higher side to account for the extra stiffness in the chain

[aargee]

Originally Posted by surjaonwheelz

Once the service center (RE) had tightened it more and we had to loosen it

Oh!! ASC does a fantastic job, I had tightened it last time & observing this issue, so it's mostly me & not the ASC

Originally Posted by jomson13

The best solution is to get the entire chain out, soak it in a solvent (diesel), lube it and put it back

This cannot be done on CBR250R or Interceptor {R15, Ninjas etc} as they've endless chain unlike Rx or perhaps Apache, not sure. I think even Apache has endless chain. To change the chain, one has to remove the swing arm to change the chain for these motorcycles.

I'll keep you update, IF, I take it to ASC to fix this issue on both chain as well as gear slots

[aargee]

Originally Posted by jomson13

This is not an issue with the adjustment but is an issue with the actual chain

What you said is absolutely right! We had an upcoming ride to Coimbatore, so we went to ASC to check if everything is OK including the cables. Quite surprisingly ASC said the chain had dead links like you said exactly & said that was the reason for the gears getting struck. Although I was still skeptical, there was one sentence the ASC guy said that turned on my faith. He said the chain links are good for another 1000-2000 odd Km, just that it needs to be cleaned well & asked me not ride too fast {mind voice: then why did I buy this motorcycle, I could've bought TVS XL}. So he did what he had to & surprisingly we never encountered the gears getting struck through the ride

Dutifully, I came back & asked them to replace the chain & guess what, after that I've never experienced the gears getting struck. It was a shocking learner to me.

[aargee]

And then this happened


And then somewhere around 182xx, the battery gave up just like that; headlight turns on, neutral light, abs turns on, but doesn't crank; that signals for a new battery. OE battery lasted for 1024 days.

With help from YouTube, took about 2:28 hours to replace the old with a new battery

Remove the RHS side cover


Remove the toolkit


Remove the seat


Remove the toolkit holder


Remove the LHS side cover


Good opportunity to check if airfilter is clean or not


Remove the + terminal


Remove the - terminal followed by the connector


Remove the battery holder; the standard Allen key from the toolkit could not be used for removing


Thankfully, I've a bunch of them in different sizes


Remove the battery


Notice the change in the model number; I was told AP-BTX is OE make while A48ATZ is the one available for public use


There's an interesting incident that happened & hence I took the picture of the MRP, which I shall detail in next post


Time to put the new one


Insert the battery, fix the battery holder, connect the + terminal, connect the - terminal & do not forget to connect the connector; fire the engine & voila its sheer brilliance!

[aargee]

Battery Hunt

Being a fan of Amaron & finding the OE was also from Amaron, it was no brainer.

Went to Amaron shop 1
Response was exceptional, he showed me this thing & said everything is the same. Cost was 3K & with exchange Rs 2700

Asked him why there's no Amaron for which he convincingly said this is the latest model & the green Amaron one's are not available. When asked whether he does not have or company does not ship, he said company ships the green ones only to ASC & he started lengthy stories which affirmed my suspicion that he's trying push what he has rather than give what I want. Looked into his eyes & gave him a metaphor of Exide IT 500 inverter battery versus the rest which should've given him that I'm a little informed customer. Now he changed the words saying the green Amaron ones are supplied directly to RE ASC rather than to dealers. Thanked him & said I'll check with ASC & get back to him

Now to Amaron shop 2
Response was good; he showed me what I wanted, price was 3600 & 3300 with exchange of old battery. I was OK with it. They didn't have computer bill & gave me manual bill which was fine by me. As he was preparing the bill, I asked him what's the difference between the Power Zone & Pro Rider, he said Power Zone is low cost model to face the competition; when asked why to launch a new product line while they could do with the existing product line, he gave some dumb answers. Attempting to find the answers myself, I saw the MRP which was 3557 & asked why he's charging me over the MRP. He immediately said, he can bring down the price to 3500-300 = 3200 which was fine by me. Later as I was leaving he asked for extra 50 & when I asked him the reason, he said it will make him happy. I smilingly said, he has made me happy by forgoing the 50 & walked away with the battery





I'm assuming the Power Zone thing is a little lower on quality compared to the Pro Rider series; I had a similar experience for my CBR in the past. I had to buy an Exide that was little lower on the cost post COVID time & that battery lasted precisely a day after the warranty period got over. I vowed not to touch such lower cost batteries again.

[aargee]

Myths on Fixing Puncture on Tubeless Tire on Interceptor

First puncture on rear Vredestein happened on Saturday evening. Considering I am not a novice as I've fixed many punctures with my CBR 250R successfully, I gave a shot with Interceptor.

• As usual, it's nightmare handling Interceptor with a deflated tire
• Our typical strength isn't sufficient to fix the puncture with a regular tubeless strip as it takes extra stronger efforts to push the rubber strip
• I had to use a driller with smallest drill to slightly enlarge the small hole on the tire as I couldn't push the rubber strip through the minute hole
• Finally I got it done, filled air & just checked there were no leakage as I was too confident, I didn't bother to test thoroughly which was a little expensive mistake I found later
• The next day the tire went deflated again which is when I took to the puncture shop where he arrested with mushroom patch

We prefer to switch from spoked tubed wheels to alloy tubeless wheel on the nightmare of fixing the punctures by removing the wheels. If it still requires to remove the wheels for mushroom patch, does it even make sense to switch to alloy wheels? Perhaps low weight? Not requiring to true the wheels often? Are these the only benefits?

Aftermath

• Either I've become old or perhaps need more strength fixing puncture on Interceptor or both
• Perhaps I should start carrying the mushroom path as well going forward incase the puncture shops don't have them in stock?
• Even so, do the stores carry necessary tools {as it requires shearing a small portion of the rubber} to smoothen the tire to fix the patch. Does this weaken the tire? That's a discussion for another day!!

Here's a shortest video that I've come across {no affiliation} on how this is done. I haven't recorded or even photographed myself with my Interceptor

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISe9__QOBwc

Ending with a positive note

While making this post & searching for videos, I came across another type of mushroom puncture kit that seems a little promising that I'm yet to find some details. Perhaps will do so if I find them useful in the forthcoming days

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=fQWSzM5-Vwk

[rajeevsulu]

From what I understand,the alloys and tubeless tyres are only for you to get your bike to the puncture shop. The only permanent way to fix the puncture is the mushroom patch for which the wheel has to be taken off.

The tubeless tyres give you the option of filling up air on the highway and riding to the nearest puncture shop. You will not be stranded in the middle of nowhere.

Cheers