Act 1 – The crescendo
I stood there in the middle of nowhere – a mute spectator
Strong winds blowing trough the valley – the bass note from a trumpet
Pitter patter of rain drops on tea leaves – tempo for the beat
Wisps of clouds caressing the landscape – mood lighting
Unending rolling hills of the tea plantation – center stage
Quick flash of lyrics running through your head – lead singer
you are nothing but a mute spectator
Hidden world
You pass the 2 km milestone and still dont see any sign of tea estates. You wonder where the acres and acres of tea plantations are hidden. The tower, unfinished, looms in front and then the gate – KEC. And then you see the hills draped in white wisps of clouds with a smattering of green tea leaves. Imagine taking a white canvas and then using a fat horsehair brush to paint in large swathes of grey – large wavy strokes that dominate the white. With your finger tips you spread this dark green in patches – creating the contour of hills. Some patches are dark dirty green, almost black – the thick shola forests while the smudged effervescent green on the canvas is the tea estate.
Figment of your imagination
Ethereal
Once you reach the bungalow and park the car, you can hear the tick tick of the engine cooling down. You can hear that only because the artists have taken a small break. And then they come back – the wind wraps around you and reaches into your core. Its not saying hello, its trying to reach that warm cozy inner center of yours to say -lets fly! And then comes the rain. Wind – it comes and goes but the rain, its relentless. What starts as a pitter patter soon turns into this incredible beat that can drive you insane. Imagine sharing a room with a young but talented drummer who needs to practice many many hours in a day. All you can do is make that beat, irrespective of its tempo, a part of your thought space and try and work around it. Unlike the tick tock of a clock in a silent house, the rain sounds more like an angry animal pawing at your door trying to get in – at times slow but at times desperate. You start with working around it but after a while it becomes an integral part of your internal mechanics that when it stops, you sit up and notice.
Chasing the monsoon
A measure of time
Drenched
Do you hear the beat?
Act 2 – The time space continuum
You walk, not to go somewhere but to get away from that sense of waiting. You dont know what you are waiting for but still you feel that tightness around that sits like a heavy blanked. When you walk, you end up exchanging the heavy blanket of waiting for the light green cloak of invisibility. All around you is this exuberant green of tea and the smell of clean fresh air. Wondering what clean fresh air feels like? Imagine drinking a cold glass of lemonade during the hot summer after a short walk in sweltering heat. Walking in clean fresh air is similar to that but the only difference is that it makes you feel invisible. Nobody can see you as there is nobody around you. You can let the little boy in you out of that locked gilded cage of civilization and see everything through his eyes.
50 shades of Green
The old & the new
A Chance encounter
Wearing down the shackles
Its fun to rediscover the joy of whiling away time without being plugged in. You end up walking down mud tracks in search of cascading water. You listen to that bird call wondering if it has a red crest or a black coat. After a while, your hands forget the need to pull out a phone & check for a message. You stop thinking about time in minutes and forget the need to be somewhere or get something done. If time & space are a continuum, then its quite logical that time here seems to bend when the space around you is a cauldron of tea hills. Wind and rain dont pass through this place, they stop here to take a break after the arduous journey over stormy seas (kadamane receives anywhere between 300-500 inches of rain a year).
Tomorrow's plan & today's view
Rust & Rain - Cause & Effect
Rain - SloMo
Time here is bent around the narrow mud paths that lead you to the same place. You walk around the bend to see a small stream running through a patch of dark green trees. You walk past the bend in the road and you are back again in the fold of that invisible green cloak of tea leaves. Up ahead you see the path snake its way into another fold in the mountains. Another mud path, another bend, another stream - same destination. Its like a maze designed by a small kid where things are predictable but you when you walk through the maze, you do not feel the weight of repetitiveness instead you feel like icarus – with wings of dew waiting for that gust of wind to lift you up into the sky.
Cascading down a well worn path
The waiting place
Lost in a sea of green
Fading into the twilight
In search of dew
Act 3 – The green goblin
After a while, you think you have seen all the green there is to see and begin to wonder what next. A short ride through some stones & streams takes you to the abode of the green goblin. Delicate is not his forte and he welcomes you by shouting down your ears and chilling you to the bone. But you cannot feel any of that because you are almost in a state of trance. His wrinkled skin is effervescent and you can see mist raise its head from disturbed sleep. And when he quietens down, you can hear the murmur of the white maiden – calling you from her cold crystal clear depths.
5 Acres - The perfect storm
5 acres is another fold of beautiful hills which bends time. You can close your eyes and go back in time a few hundred years and sill nothing would have changed. We were lucky to have found a crack in time when the rains had still not arrived and we managed to spend a beautiful hour walking up the slopes. On a clear December night, this place would be the perfect spot to watch the sun go down and wait for the stars to light up the night.
5 acres
Epilogue
Sinnadorai's Kadamane bungalow is all about the location. Its picturesque, scenic, quiet, calm, peaceful, luxurious, indulgent and comfortable. Getting there is not hard - just a 5 hour drive from Bangalore and apart from a 6 km stretch of broken roads, the rest is brilliant. The rooms are comfortable and the property has this old world charm without compromising on modern day amenities.
Old & New
Road to kadamane
I am a coffee man myself but the red cup of fragrant tea managed to convert me to a tea drinker for a few days. It rained most of the time but I was happy for that is exactly what i wanted. It was cold, wet, windy and spooky most of the time - perfect recipe for the romantic kid in me to don a new cape and go gallivanting into the mists of the mountains.
Almost perfect
Radhika & team ensure that you are as comfortable as can be and the simple but delicious food is one of the main reasons why I would visit again. The one thing i just cant get out of my head is this crooked moss covered entrance to the bungalow. I wonder what stories it could tell!
Sayonara 