[a4anurag]

With the 14th and 15th August being holiday's, wifey and I decided to visit go out for a trip where could stay and come back the next day which gave the flexibility to see more places leisurely. Belum caves and Gandikota were the places I got in my mind when the plan was being formulated. The rough plan was of starting early on the 14th stay in Haritha Resorts at Belum caves, then the next day visit Gandikota and drive back home, little did we know we were in for some nasty surprises.

Got the following done the previous day (i.e on 13th):

• Periodic Wheel Alignment, Balancing & Rotation;
  
  
• Fuel and air pressure top up.

Since this was a two day trip, we packed some extra dresses in case it rains.

The only worry for me was accommodation which was a doubt since it was a long weekend and alll would be rushing out of their houses to spend quality time with their family members somewhere outside the cities hustle. As the accommodation was a doubt, we had made two plans:

Plan 1: Drive directly to Belum caves, stay in Kurnool for the night (If we get a hotel) Get up on 15th and go to Gandikota, visit the places and drive home/

Plan 2: Drive directly to Belum caves, see it and try for accommodation and if no rooms available drive back the same day to Hyderabad.

I tried contacting Haritha Resorts through the website and also the APTDC website but it was constantly saying "No rooms available for the dates".

With fingers crossed and deciding to take the risk of trying for accommodation after reaching the Caves, we called it a day slept early on the 13th so that we could get up by 5 am to set off by 6 am from home sharp.

Following items packed along with clothes and some snacks:

• 12V Air compressor;
  
  
• TomTom Car charger and extra USB cables to charge two mobiles on-the-go;
  
  
• Tubeless tyre puncture repair kit;
  
  
• Sufficient change to cater at the toll-booths.

To add to the list, please keep a spare set of bulbs that used in the car as these can conk off anytime without any warning. My car's right side high beam fused by the time we left Hyderabad after break fast. As it was a weekend and moreover Pushkaralu, all shops near Hyderabad and Kurnool were closed forcing me to drive with only 1 light.

[a4anurag]

Routes and Details of the Places to visit in the area

1. Belum Caves, Kurnool, AP

Belum Caves is the largest tourist cave in Indian subcontinent and the longest caves in plains of Indian Subcontinent, known for its stalactite and stalagmite formations. It is a natural underground cave formed by the constant flow of underground water. The caves reach its deepest point (150 feet from entrance level) at the point known as Pataalaganga. Today, 3.5 km of the cave has been successfully explored, though only 1.5 km is open to tourists. There are deposits of Quartz in the caves. The caves are formed in Black Limestone. There are indications that Jains and Buddhists monks occupied these caves centuries ago. Many Buddhists relics were found inside the caves. These relics are now housed in Museum at Ananthapur

SOURCE: Belum Caves - Wikipedia

Routes I took for Hyderabad to Belum Caves via Kurnool:

Hyderabad to Belum Caves


2. Gandikota, Kadapa, AP

Gandikota is a small village on the right bank of the river Pennar, 15 km from Jammalamadugu in Kadapa district, Andhra Pradesh. Gandikota was founded in 1123 by Kapa Raja of nearby Bommanapalle village and a subordinate of Ahavamalla Someswara I. The town played a significant role during the Kakatiya, Vijayanagara and Qutub Shahi periods. The fort was made more impregnable by Pemmasani Thimma Nayudu. The fort was under the control of Pemmasani Nayaks for over 300 years.

The fort of Gandikota acquired its name due to the 'gorge' (in Telugu it is called 'Gandi'), formed between the Erramala range of hills, also known as Gandikota hills and the river Pennar that flows at its foot, reducing its width to a mere 300 ft. Situated amidst beautiful landscape and wild forests, it is endowed with vast natural resources.

1. Madhavaraya Temple
2. Jama Masjid
3. Granary
4. Ranganatha Swamy Temple
5. Gandikota Fort View Point
6. Gandikota Gorge View Point

SOURCE: Gandikota - Wikipedia

Routes I took to go to Gandikota from Belum Caves:

Belum Caves to Gandikota


Gandikota to Kurnool


Kurnool to Hyderabad

[a4anurag]

At 06:00 am sharp we started off from home, decided to have breakfast when we reach the Airport that has some decent hotels for breakfast. Reached the hotel by 06:30 am. Had breakfast and left the hotel by 06:50 am.

We were in for a rude shock as we crossed the airport and hit the highway. It completely slipped out of my mind that it was Krishna Pushkaralu which was going on so 70% of the citizens were on the road leading to the Krishna river to take a holy dip in the River Krishna. This was all the main cause for delay that we were experiencing every 2 to 3 kilometers causing traffic to move at snail pace. Many diversions and jams took us 4 hours to reach Kurnool from Hyderabad outskirts.

We started from the hotel at 07:00 am and by the time we were crossing Kurnool by-pass on the NH 44, it was 11:00 am. This took toll on me and the enthusiasm we had when we set off from home and also it made the doubt of getting accommodation even more doubtful.

Route in brief was:

Hyderabad to Kurnool = 228 kms (Superb road)
Kurnool to Gooty = 95 kms (Superb road)
Gooty Junction to Belum Caves = 60 kms (Average to bad road in certain places).

Total distance: 383 kms

Road from Hyderabad to Gooty via Kurnool is superbly laid and maintained where one can just maintain speeds between 90-120 kmph continuously but needs to be cautious at junctions and medians. This is the usual picture on has in mind when one thinks of Hyderabad-Bangalore (NH7) highway but on that day, God had some different plans for us which made the speeds of driving maintained between 30 to 50 kmph. Somehow by 11:20 am we cross Kurnool and are on the way to Gooty which is 95 kms from Kurnool. By the time we were at Gooty Junction it was 12:00.

From here on, the problem grows with bad roads and speed breakers that were laid at every village and totally unmarked leading to emergency braking. Thank god I had ABS plus the roads were empty else we would have got rear-ended at the first speed breaker.

It is 13:00 by the time we reach Belum Caves, tired and exhausted. Any car that is labelled as 'Rattle-proof' and 'best build-quality' must be put through this road to genuinely check if it is well built or no. My Swift was gifted with one rattle by the time we reached Belum Caves (Rear seat backrest was loose and vibrating).

1. Belum Caves

In the 60 kms from Gooty junction to the caves, not one yes NOT ONE sign board is found on the road. Not sure what APTDC thinks about its tourist who come to visit the caves. May be they think that all have Google Maps or may be have the route by-heart. Uuff!

Wrong time is what I can say that we arrived at the caves, Pushkaralu was one main reason we could not get guides and all the ones who were available were engaged with other tourists. We did enquire at the ticket counter after paying the entry fee of ₹50 each on how long would it take to get a guide?! Got an answer of 3 hours (including 1 hour lunch time for the guide). We absolutely had no patience to wait more so went inside to have a look at the caves ourselves (not that we understood anything).

The entrance to the caves is through a large hole through a series of steps leading to the mouth of the caves where there is Gebauer Hall for people to sit and relax.

The caves are low lit and man-made holes drilled from top to let in fresh air to maintain the temperature and humidity inside the caves. But honestly it was difficult for me to be inside for long as I am Asthmatic and certain places in the caves I was struggling for breath. Temperature was high inside which was another irritant and so was the stale air (Perspiration) inducing vomiting for certain tourists. At every Air inlet hole, people were standing to let them relieve the heat and breathe some fresh air.

Another minus point for me regarding this caves. We did explore inside but the darkness and lack of guide did have clueless on where we were going even though I had clicked a picture of the map outside. The other issue was, the caves being dark and certain places with no lights, the danger of bats flying out were constant. My wife was lucky to not get hit by one frightened bat that came out running when a tourist pointed torch in dark.

We were inside the caves for almost 1 hour 40 minutes and by the time we started walking back to the entrance, we were dead tired and dying for fresh oxygen and natural light.

By 15:00 we were out of the Caves walking towards Haritha Resorts to book a room and have lunch. It is just 200 m from the caves entrance (situated just near the entrance gate of the Caves. When we reached the parking of the Resorts, the security guard gave us another shock for the day. The Hotel has been closed permanently and for any accommodation related things we would need to either go to Kurnool or nearby town Tadipatri.

Clueless of what is the next step to do, first thing we did was we had lunch at the hotel opposite the entrance gate to get our senses back. Food was average but that was it because we had no other choice nearby.

After lunch, we thought what to do. Either drive back home OR go to Kurnool and rest for the day and leave for Home the next day OR visit Gandikota and then go to Kurnool to rest. Wife opted for the last option to drive to Gandikota, see the place and then go to Kurnool by night to sleep in any hotel that had a room for us.

En-route Gandikota, we came across two bizarre incidents where locals were stopping cars forcibly. Here are two videos of them:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsafLds8vck

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1YmRh1qDPw

2. Gandikota

Distance from Belum Caves to Gandikota is 61.5 kms where one travels on crater-filled roads. Horrible condition is an understatement.

After driving for 49 kms from Belum Caves, the road got better reliving us of the miseries. Speeds were gaining finally but the roads were desolate. After proceeding for another 1 km the road was partly closed with rocks as the road ahead was being repaired near to the entrance of town.

Got this confirmed from the locals and a 5 cars that were returning due to the road closed issue.

Not sure if it was pure bad luck or the time that I chose to do this trip, nothing was working as planned.

With no choice left, we took a U-turn to head back to Kurnool. It was 16:00 hours when we started back for Kurnool.

Stopped by the side of the desolate road and checked Maps to narrow down on the route to take reach Kurnool for a night halt. I seriously did not have any patience to drive back 400 kms to Hyderabad so decided to search for a hotel in Kurnool.

Maps gave us 3 routes:

1. Through SH 28 and NH 40 spanning a distance of 143 kms;

2. Through NH 40 through Orvakal spanning a distance of 160 kms

3. Through SH 28 through Banaganapalli, Gooty spanning a distance of 196 kms.

We chose the shortest and again as luck that wasn't on our side, road absolutely horrible and in-existent in certain places.

The return leg to Kurnool started at 16:00 and I drove continuously to reach Kurnool by 19:00. Meanwhile, wifey started looking for suggestions for Hotels in Kurnool on the Make my trip App. Found three hotels that looked decent for a night halt:

1. Hotel DVR Mansion;

2. Hotel Suraj Grand

3. Sign Regency.

While passing by Kurnool in the morning I remembered seeing this Suraj Grand hotel so we decide to check this hotel first as it is at the end of the town and nearest to the Hyderabad-Bangalore highway - Easy to get out of the town!

Park the car in the basement and go to the reception to check for rooms availability - Finally luck did favour us and we got a room to sleep!

Checked-in at 19:30, freshened up and went to the hotel (4th floor) for dinner. Came directly to the room and jumped in the bed for a relaxed sleep after a tiring, dull irritated day that was spent more on the road. Horrific IMHO!

[a4anurag]

Here are some pictures of the journey!

1) Pushkaralu rush

Sea of People


Traffic snarls


Filling parking lots of these Pushkaralu Ghats


Toll Booths let open free for all ongoing vehicles to the Pushkaralu (To avoid jam at Toll booths)


Krishna River

A video of the traffic jams from my Dashcam:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzqtpzSaKos

2. Pictures clicked randomly during the whole Journey

At home just before setting off


En-route Gooty






Another 30 kms for Gooty


Belum Caves to Gandikota - Bridge to cross














Ghar Dhaba - Had breakfast here while returning to Hyderabad from Kurnool


Had a puncture so repaired it and re-filling air


Breakfast at Ghar Dhaba


Breakfast at Ghar Dhaba
















Welcome to Telangana - Enroute Hyderabad


On the Nehru ORR - Going home

[a4anurag]

1) Belum Caves in Pictures

At the entrance of the Caves


Lord Buddha at the Entrance of the Caves (See background - Belum Caves written on the hill - Only indication throughout)


Facts and Sights to see


Map of the Caves


Entrance hole to the caves


Staircase


Gebauer Hall


View of the hole from beneath






















Pipe that releases cool air to maintain temperature and Humidity inside

************************************************** ********

Hotel Suraj Grand

Lord Ganesha at the entrance of the hotel


4th floor (Nice lighting)


The room


Night view from the room


Same view at Day time

************************************************** ********

Toll's encountered during the entire journey (in no particular order)

[a4anurag]

Last but not the least some figures regarding the trip and my car.

At the start of the trip


Upon Reaching Belum Caves


'88,888 kms' click


Kurnool to Hyderabad


At the end of trip after parking at home

A summary

• Hyderabad to Belum caves via Kurnool, Gooty: 383 kms
  
  
• Belum Caves to Gandikota: 61 kms
  
  
• Gandikota to Kurnool: 147 kms
  
  
• Kurnool to Hyderabad: 274 kms
  
  
• Total Distance: 860.5 kms
  
  
• Speeds maintained: 90 to 110 kmph
  
  
• FE at start of trip: 17.1 kmpl
  
  
• FE at end of trip: 20.6 kmpl
  
  
• A/C usage: 75% of the whole journey
  
  
• A/C set at 24 degrees
  
  
• Total toll Cost: ₹ 388
  
  
• Total Fuel Cost: ₹3000 (Before journey did a top-up where she took-in ₹1200 worth fuel and just before home, refilled the tank where she took in ₹1800 worth fuel).

However good or bad the trip was, I even more in love with my car. The way she performed throughout without letting one moment of request for rest or any hiccups. A true reliable highway car from Maruti Suzuki. The only thing I wish is better NVH levels especially at highway speeds. It does make the journey relaxed and less tiresome.

Hope you have enjoyed reading it. I am planning another quick trip soon to see what I missed a.k.a Gandikota! Shall update the thread soon when I make to see the missed fun!

Thanks once again for reading guys.

[Aditya]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Travelogues Section. Thanks for sharing!

[paragsachania]

Great to see you take the plunge and head out around and see places Anurag . There is a lot to see and no matter how much we travel, we will still have many places to visit right here within our own beautiful country that offers variety of options at each of the destination.

Originally Posted by a4anurag

En-route Gandikota, we came across two bizarre incidents where locals were stopping cars forcibly. Here are two videos of them:

Cannot be fully sure but considering Ganesh Chaturthi round the corner, these kids will be on a "collection drive".

Have witnessed them so many times in many places around Karnataka as well.

[mobike008]

Nice detailed travelogue Anurag !!! I have never been to Belum Caves. Looks a bit similar to Borra Caves in Araku Valley

I think I might ride down to this place in near future. Some queries :

Is there a place to stay near Belum Caves?

Apart from caves, is there anything else to see?

What was the tariff at Suraj Grand?

I used to be a beta tester for Tom Tom. Can you share a picture of the GPS and also do share the cost at which you bought along with feedback on how you like it?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

Cannot be fully sure but considering Ganesh Chaturthi round the corner, these kids will be on a "collection drive".

Thanks Parag.

This Collection drive, runs throughout the year as told by the locals and many have warned me not to stop or roll down the windows.

Originally Posted by mobike008

Is there a place to stay near Belum Caves?

No place bhai. Haritha Resorts had closed down permanently. The nearest is either Kurnool or Tadipatri town.

Originally Posted by mobike008

Apart from caves, is there anything else to see?

Nothing near Belum Caves but you have Gandikota nearby. That is a must visit. I am re-planning to drive especially to check Gandikota that I missed last time.

Originally Posted by mobike008

What was the tariff at Suraj Grand?

1899 + Taxes.

TomTom is my 12V car charger. I use my mobile as GPS. No standalone unit. Don't like clutter on the dashboard.

[govigov]

Very nice and detailed travelogue. Why were the locals stopping people, with what I think are ropes? Is it to exort cash?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by govigov

Very nice and detailed travelogue. Why were the locals stopping people, with what I think are ropes? Is it to exort cash?

Thanks buddy. Yes it seems to pull out cash from visitors. They don't not stop local cars, only registrations numbers outside

[mangespat]

Nice Travelogue..I did this so called circuit in September last year. We were in a convoy of 5 cars and left Hyderabad on Friday evening and took a short drive to Kurnool and stayed overnight at the DVR Palace. The next day (Saturday) we left at about 7 and covered Belum Caves (Before most tourists arrived and all the guides got booked) and then moved on to Gandikota where we had lunch at the Haritha resort and stayed at the canyon till sun dawn and returned to Kurnool by midnight. Spent the sunday morning leisurely and then drove back to Hyderabad in the afternoon.

1) Belum caves are hot and more humid then any other caves I have ever been to. They are horrible on the inside. Might I just add, there is not much you missed by not hiring a guide. We hired one and there was not much that he could tell us. He was more a geologist telling us about the kind of rock there was around. I personally didn't find that very interesting.

2) The Haritha resort at Belum caves was closed even when we had gone there a year before you visited. APTDC/Haritha resorts were very responsive on the Whatsapp number when I used them to book a resort in Suryalanka last month. I wonder why you got no response informing you that the resort is closed.

3) There is a Haritha resort at Gandikota incase you are planning another trip there.

4) I know what you mean by bad roads. On our way back from Gandikota to Kurnool in the night, One of the Grand i10's in our group hit a pot hole so badly that the left front and rear alloys got bent which meant that the tubeless tyres stopped working. They drove back all the way to Hyderabad using my spare and their own spare.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by mangespat

pp
3) There is a Haritha resort at Gandikota incase you are planning another trip there.

Any contacts you have so that I can book in advance and avoid any embarrassment!!!

[mpksuhas]

A detailed travelogue Anugarg.

Regarding collection drive, thought it was part of Ganesha Chaturthi as mentioned by Parag earlier. When I visited Belum & Gandikota too faced the same. Even faced the same when traveled to Lepakshi, they scrated the car when the rope was pulled over to let me pass on top of that.

Regarding tourism department signboards, yes I too agree. I was in Hyderabad for around 4.5 years and majority of people there doesn't know there is a tourist place called Belum.

For Gandikota Harita, there was no option to book online earlier. From what you say now, atleast the option is displayed.

You can try reaching the caretaker for getting the availablity. One tip, always opt for AC room. The place is too hot in any season

Caretaker : +91 9959 659353