[libranof1987]

We recently traveled to Kashmir, and I've penned down our observations, learnings and suggestions in this thread so it can be used for route discussions:

Route Discussions (Kashmir in 2023: Points of interest, tips and general queries)

Here's a photologue for our trip:

Getting into Kashmir, and Gulmarg

Gulmarg - Pahalgam: Avantipur ruins, Cricket factory, Apple Orchard

Pahalgam: The A-B-C Valley Trinity

Sonmarg

Srinagar: The Lake and Gardens

Srinagar: the Temple, Fort and Streets

[libranof1987]

Make sure you take a window seat for your flight into Kashmir, you are greeted with stunning views of the landscape: snow-filled mountain caps, long winding valleys, and a steady network of rivers and streams.





En route Gulmarg: our first view of the snow filled mountains



We had a quick stop at a carpet factory



These two are working on weaving a carpet: the guy on the left has a note in front of him with instructions on the sequence of colour and pattern which he calls out aloud, so the guy next to him can follow



We then set off for Gulmarg; G20 delegates were scheduled to visit the town, so the roads were relaid, and infrastructure tidied up. They eventually didn't.



Unfortunately, our tickets for the Gondola ride at Gulmarg were messed up, so we started for Pahalgam right in the morning

[libranof1987]

While travelling from Gulmarg to Pahalgam, we visited:

Avantipur ruins: a temple complex said to be from thousands of years back, first destroyed by Mughals, and then due to an earthquake













Bat factory: a region in this area is famous for the Kashmiri Willow bat, and you'll find hundreds of bat factories, with lakhs of bats in various stages of production.

The wood for the handles is brought in from Punjab, while the bat is made of Kashmiri willow



The process involves several steps:

The first: fixing the two pieces: the face of the bat and handle







Then, the bats are finished (curvature) based on need



Then, the grip



The finished product



Then, the marketing. Stickers are pasted based on orders



There's a part of this highway that is built to work as an emergency runway for the Air Force base nearby



Apple orchards: the season for Apples is typically Aug - Nov, we saw some fruits just about developing. This region also has Walnut orchards.





An interesting observation: the Chinar tree is widely found in Kashmir, but is controlled/protected by the Govt, and are marked as such

[libranof1987]

Pahalgam

Pahalgam is famous for the Aru - Betaab - Chandanwari valley trinity

We couldn't travel to Aru valley due to a landslide enroute. But here's a picture from close to where we had to turn back (about 2km short of Aru)



Betaab valley: called so, courtesy the namesake movie that was shot here. An exceptionally beautiful meadow set in the valley











Chandanwari valley: where you'll find snow, and plenty people

[libranof1987]

Sonmarg

In most itineraries, Sonmarg is a day trip from Srinagar.

As you begin the horse ride / hike from Sonmarg town to the glacier, you begin to get stunning views of the deep valleys as the glacier water makes it way downstream



Several meadows, made famous by movies shot here



This one, by Satte Pe Satta



You then arrive at the glacier, after a strenuous 45min horse ride. There are about 4-5 stalls that serve maggi, biscuits, tea and coffee



There was quite some snow late May



You can rent a sledge here: you sit on a wooden sledge, a man pulls you up and then guides you down







Sonmarg is about 15min short of Zoji La Pass on the Srinagar - Leh highway, an exceptionally critical highway. It is often closed during the winter due to heavy snow. Due to this, construction of an all weather highway consisting of elevated bridges and tunnels is in progress. And there's a LOT of construction.



Bridges over rivers



Tunnel boring in progress



Once this highway is completed (current estimated completion date: Dec 2026), such scenes of several km long traffic jams, courtesy road closures for days/weeks even in non-winter months should be a thing of the past

[libranof1987]

Dal lake and the gardens of Srinagar

Dal lake is what most of us think of when we think Srinagar and Kashmir. It runs a periphery of about 19kms and is largely busy on one side, where all the commercial activity is located: shikaras, houseboats, Nehru garden.

It is a very busy place: you have shikaras out for a ride with tourists, houseboats parked in one area, a several shikaras that are essentially floating shops, selling flowers, food, fruits and more, and one area where there are even shops and offices.











A fruit vendor



The Post Office at Dal Lake!















There are several gardens in Srinagar, and with due respect to them, there'll all fairly similar. We went to three of them:

Pari Mahal: a lovely step-garden with fort-like construction









Chashme Shahi







Nishat

[libranof1987]

The sights of Kashmir

Shankaracharya temple: a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, atop the Shankaracharya hill



Srinagar town





Hari Parbat fort: an erstwhile fort-palace, now a watch tower for the Armed Forces. The Fort has a temple, mosque and gurudwara in the premises, and offers bird's eye view of the town. The Indian flag is installed, which you can see from most places throughout Srinagar







Lal chowk



Zero bridge: a wooden bridge, lit up beautifully at night







Riverfront: a nice place to walk about, it is a like a typical chowpatty without any shops. Families gather in the evenings and walk about, taking pictures with the newly installed Kashmir moniker. Quite like a picnic

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[NomadSK]

Thanks for Sharing.

Coming from the same place, this rekindled some old memories. Invariably, as kids, our summer vacations were spent there every year. Kashmir is really very beautiful. If developed and kept in pristine condition, it will give competition to Switzerland any day.

Last We Went there pre-corona times and I found the place to be pretty expensive as compared to the facilities they offer. Personally, I love being there in winters, It is said that God paints in different colors, but He paints the best when He paints in white. In winter, entire Kashmir valley is painted white with snow. Mountains, roads, planes, trees, crevices, houses, vehicles and everything is covered with snow. The valley looks simply gorgeous. Also, the food is finger licking good. Specially the local delicacies. Additional advantage is water digests it all.

Few pictures during my winter visit over a period of time.

Thanks again

[asingh1977]

Lovely photos and thanks for sharing informative details. Which camera/lens was used ?

[libranof1987]

Originally Posted by NomadSK

Mountains, roads, planes, trees, crevices, houses, vehicles and everything is covered with snow. The valley looks simply gorgeous.

Indeed; we'd love to go again, once in the winter. The place has an entirely different charm.

Also, the food is finger licking good.

What surprised us is the easy availability and frequency of veg-only restaurants and dhabas. Most restaurants prominently displayed the veg-only status, presumably given the food choices of tourists. Even buffets in 4* hotels carried only one non-veg item vs. the 4-5 options for vegetarians.

Originally Posted by asingh1977

Lovely photos and thanks for sharing informative details. Which camera/lens was used ?

Thanks! These are from an ancient iPhone 11.

[Dr.Procastinate]

Thanks for such a detailed photologue and the info about planning the trip. I now know where to go for inspiration and pointers when I plan a trip to Kashmir .

[vijayols]

Amazing photos.The ruins looked so beautiful and not generally on everyone's plans when visiting Kashmir.

[tatafanatic]

excellent article, the beauty of the place reminds me of a funny anecdote

I was stationed in J&K and one winter i asked my wife if she would want to come over to spend some time as by gods grace i did have some R&R time on hand, those days my wife had taken up photoraphy and came with a bazooka looking camera apparatus, as it happens in uniforms a day post her arrival i went missing in the woods leaving my staff to show her around. Years later i am passing through vacation albums and i see these amazing pictures of snow capped mountains, white painted landscapes, truly spectacular terrain and all so i asked when did we go to Europe in the winter and how come i am no where in these photos!!

As rightly said if a few things do go correctly the place can give Switzerland a run for it money!!

[iamitp]

Any suggestions for reliable cab/tax service for local sightseeing in Srinagar?