11th April, 2013
It was a Thursday and the first day of the Navratras. I wasn't aware of this fact.
We got up as soon as the alarm rang and started to get ready. The target was to leave by 3 am as Harisingh had asked us to come by 5:30.
On my last visit I had got stuck in a massive jam on NH8 after Manesar and somehow managed to reach before 7 am after a lot of aggressive driving. On my return I had taken the Bhiwadi - Taoru - Sohna - Gurgaon route. Though had to endure a bad patch of about 10 kms a little before Taoru till crossing the town, I reached home in less time than the Bhiwadi - Dharuhera - NH8 route.
I had thought that from now on I would take the Sohna route for my Sariska visits.
We left home by 3:20 and were happily cruising on the Sohna road. Reached the Taoru intersection by 3:40 and started to climb the ghat road. And then disaster struck. There was a massive traffic jam on the ghat road and as far as the eye could see it was choc-a-bloc with dumpers, trailers & trucks. I was stuck. Waited with a hope that soon the vehicles would start moving. Shutting the engine and rolling down the windows brought misery of a different kind - blood-thirsty mosquitos. So the engine was switched on and AC started. The clock ticked and the time showed 4:15 am. I had had enough and decided to take a risk. Somehow reversed in that narrow ghat road, bullied a couple truck drivers to shift their vehicles to extreme left and drove towards the Sohna intersection.
I was taking the Mewat route much to my discomfort but had no choice. Though this route is a bit shorter than the other routes, it is dotted with un-marked speed breakers of varying sizes and after Naugaon becomes a single lane all the way to Alwar.
I had lost enough time and diesel and no way could have made to Sariska by 5:30 am. Stopped very briefly for a pit-stop near a toll at Ramgarh, called Harisingh and told him about the situation. Wife wanted to have tea somewhere as she was feeling drowsy (as always) and I stoutly refused. Reached Sariska at 6:55 am. Harisingh was ready with everything and while I was setting up my cameras, saw wife whispering something to Harisingh. He nodded and vanished away to appear after sometime with a hot cup of tea. She finally had her way. You can't win with a woman.
We entered the jungle; ours was the second jeep and there wasn't any tourist at all being a weekday. I thought we were going straight to Slopka as ST4 was seen last evening there. But on a hunch Harisingh said that we would go towards Ghaanka area first and then there. I agreed. While we approached the trail this what we spotted.
The Ghaanka trail Fresh Pug-mark of ST 6
This pug-mark was as fresh as it could be and this was unbelievable. ST 6 was not known to be here today. Was Goddess Durga being benevolent & kind to me by sending her ride? How was I, a mere mortal man, to know this who wasn't even aware of the start of the Navratri.
Met a forest-guard who pleaded ignorance and when we showed him the pug-mark he was shocked. He said that the last signal of ST6 was tracked on to the hills. This meant he had come down.
The direction of the pug-marks indicated that he was headed towards Karna ka Baas. This meant he was thirsty & was going to drink water. Funnily no alarm calls though Cheetal & Sambar were present.
We raced towards the main road and parked ourselves at a vantage point near a small bridge from where we could see the road on both sides. He would be seen as soon as he crossed the road.
An hour passed, nothing stirred and I waited patiently in the Sun.
Then we heard a jeep at a distance. This was ACF Vipin Gupta. A known Tiger lover, he rushes in as soon as he gets a news about the prescence of a Tiger. Did he get a news?
As he neared us he queried from Harisingh and after getting to know about the pug-marks barked some orders in the wireless and drove further down. He was summoning the ST6 tracking party.
As soon as he left, my driver Jagdish got down and inspected the sides of the road for any tell-tale signs. A cheetal called and Jagdish ran back to the jeep. I set my camera at the expected zone based on the Cheetal call.
The Cheetal called twice again and fell silent. We surmised that the Cheetal got spooked because of Jagdish.
How wrong we were. Suddenly the Cheetal emerged from the thicket, looked at us and then hurriedly crossed over. Now we were sure that the deer got alarmed due to us.
At a distance a Peacock was dancing and trying to impress the peahens. The jungle was so silent and calm.
There was s rustle in the bushes and spotted this Sambar who was looking a bit nervous.
Suddenly two forest-guards on a motorcycle came from behind and stopped next to us and excitedly said - "what are you looking at the front? 6 was standing behind looking at the jeep and just went inside. We waited till he crossed over". Bloody hell. The fellow had given us the slip. So near and yet so far.
We went back with those guards where they had seen him and sure enough there were faint pug-marks on the hard soil. We thought he had crossed from our behind to Karna ka Baas, drank water, came back and crossed over to Latthavla. We immediately went to Karna ka Baas to see if had come to drink water. Here the pug-marks would certainly be there due to the soft mud. And also a herd of Cheetal was grazing peacefully. Indeed if ST6 had come they would have certainly called.
No pug-marks at all. This meant that he got disturbed for whatever reason and turned back without drinking water. He was thirsty and would not have gone far and could come again to drink.
The Cheetal that had called earlier had seen ST6 and called. If only we were a bit more observant.
We went back and parked again at the same place waiting patiently. In a distance we heard a motorcycle and this was the ST6 tracking party. They came and parked near us and started checking for signal. The receiver was getting a very strong signal. They removed the lead from the antenna and again the signal was very strong. As I had mentioned earlier, if the signal is received by the lead without the antenna, then the collared animal is in the vicinity of 20 odd meters. The tracking party then removed the lead from the receiver and pointed the receiver towards the source of the signal. Oh boy, the receiver, without the lead and antenna was getting the signal loud & clear. This meant that the Tiger was within 3 meters.
Now it becomes very interesting. One of the main signal trackers went slowly towards the bridge and peered down. In a flash he ran back as if stung by a bee and whispered hoarsely - Tiger.
Next moment everything happened in a flash. ST6 was resting beneath the bridge in the cool shade. Thoroughly disturbed he got up in a flash and looking highly irritated vanished in the bushes. What I could get was only a record shot.
If only Science could invent a device that could capture the images in the mind. I was seeing ST6 after a gap of almost 1.3 years. He has grown huge & powerful than before, looks very healthy and agile. He is slowly becoming the dominant male of Sariska after having encroached much of ST4's territory and pushing him farther away.
Goddess Durga had blessed me.
We waited for some more time hoping he would return but that was not to be so. Returned back from the jungle. For the evening we decided to go to Slopka looking for ST4 and then come back and park at Latthavla for ST6.
Returned back at 3 and drove straight to Slopka. Waited for over an hour. Heard a Sambar call once and then the jungle fell silent. Saw this Sambar female injured in a Leopard attack and surviving. Must be a juvenile inexperienced Leopard.
The Sariska forest is looking beautiful in the spring. New green leaves all over and the
flame of the forest blooming everywhere.
Waited again at Latthavla for ST6. Nothing happened. Went to Brahmanath to see if any Leopards were there since there was no crowd in the jungle. Only a few Kingfishers were swooping around.
Returned back via Kaalighati. When will we learn? Tourists come into the jungle and litter it posing danger to the residents. Why can't they carry their leftovers in a bag and dispose it in a proper dustbin? I wish if some concrete measures could be taken to stop this menace.
Thus ended my safari of Sariska on a satisfying note and the Tiger drought ended...
Hope you enjoyed my travelogue.
p.s. I returned back to Gurgaon taking the Bhiwadi - Daruhera - NH8 route.