Team-BHP
(
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte
(Post 3128846)
You have to access settings (please refer to the manual) and set SUB.W to OFF. This should bring back all the frequencies on the 'Rear' channel.
If one has a sub, the 'Rear' channels are used to drive it. For this, SUB.W setting should be set to NOR (Normal) or REV (reversed phase output to sub). |
Thank you very much, I will do as you have directed & give you feed back once it's done.
My first post on ICE:
I want to give a mild upgrade to the stock ICE in my Honda Civic. I don't want to change the HU and I don't want to splurge. I want a little more detail at low volumes, and some amount of boost to the lower frequencies. Thinking of adding:
1. An entry level 4 Channel Amp:
http://www.jbl.com/estore/jbl/in/pro...GTX-646_JBL_IN
2.A decent set of components in the front:
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/infi...two-way/659128
3.An entry level 10" or 12" Sub in the Boot
4. Damp the front Door and the Boot.
I plan to leave the rear speakers untouched, as 99% I am the only one driving the car. My questions are:
1. Will 6.5" fit in the front doors without any cutting? How are the Infinity PR6500CS? Any clue about the sound signature? I would not want to have a bright sounding speaker.
2. Will the Amp in question take input from the Speaker level outs from the Stock Civic HU?
Thanks in advance
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravindwarrier
(Post 3195027)
... 1. Will 6.5" fit in the front doors without any cutting? ... |
It will.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravindwarrier
(Post 3195027)
... How are the Infinity PR6500CS? Any clue about the sound signature? I would not want to have a bright sounding speaker. ... |
Instead of relying on opinions of other users, audition the speakers yourself - your ears would be the best judge. Infinity is unlikely to be bright.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravindwarrier
(Post 3195027)
... 2. Will the Amp in question take input from the Speaker level outs from the Stock Civic HU? ... |
No, it wont. You will have to get a Line Output Converter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte
(Post 3196243)
It will.
Instead of relying on opinions of other users, audition the speakers yourself - your ears would be the best judge. Infinity is unlikely to be bright.
No, it wont. You will have to get a Line Output Converter. |
Thank you DerAlte for taking time out. I would have loved to audition the speakers before zeroing in on something, but then I'm in Hyderabad, and I really couldn't find a place where they allow auditioning. And for converting, will a simple 2 Channel line output converter do to feed the amp and thus drive the front comps and the sub? Can you name any model/make and how much should I be paying for them?
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravindwarrier
(Post 3197938)
... I'm in Hyderabad, and I really couldn't find a place where they allow auditioning. ... |
You need to ask (they don't advertize that way). The ones who know their stuff give an audition. Those who don't, shy away - stay away from them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravindwarrier
(Post 3197938)
... And for converting, will a simple 2 Channel line output converter do to feed the amp and thus drive the front comps and the sub? Can you name any model/make and how much should I be paying for them? |
Haven't seen any 2 channel ones. Search for Scosche LOC - should be 2-3K.
Guruji's Namaste.
Want to replace the stock setup on my Bolero for a minimum cost. Now, sticking to the proper protocol, here we go -
1. Your Car: Mahindra Bolero August 2013 ZLX Variant
2. Your current setup (If any): Kenwood HU, coaxes in the front and back (two pairs)
3. Your Budget: As low as possible. Definitely sub 13k.
4. Do you drive most of the time or is it chauffer driven? I live to drive.
5. Your Music preferences (Genres, favorite artists, etc.): House, EDM, Hip Hop, Metal, Rock, classical. Basically, everything across the ranges. My music tastes are demanding all through the spectrum, i.e. high mids and lows.
Some extra info - I already have a front compos, rear ovals, sub woof + amp setup in my hatchback, which serves me supremely well for all my audio needs. The Bolero is a difference piece of cake altogether. I don't want to make the earth shake. I want clear sound, which can go decently loud without the speakers tearing, which the current setup does, i.e. the speakers tear easily. I appreciate good treble and bass with decent mid support. I re-emphasize, I just want decent clear good sound.
The setup I've explored and like so far is -
1.
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/sony...874/?pos=0;0;1
Decent HU with Bluetooth pairing.
2. 2 pairs of coaxials - Either all 4 Rockford Fosgate 3 way R-1653, or all 4 Infinity 6502i's 2 way, or all 4 JBL's not sure of the model.
The wiring will remain stock, unless the Guru's feel better wiring is required. I'm not getting an amp or woofer setup at the moment, and can always upgrade the wiring when I want to upgrade to that.
Doubts
1. I've heard that components without amplification are not as good as coaxials without amplification. Components have a crossover which push high frequency sounds to the tweeters and the mids and bass are pushed through the cone, correct? What is better for my setup?
Thanks in advance.
Gurus,
My brother-in-law has recently purchased a Hyundai Eon and is looking for installing ICE. His search for a basic and decent HU with Speakers brought me into posting this query.
He has basically shortlisted two combo offers available on Snapdeal.
We both are completely novice in ICE selection and need advice on whether to proceed with any one of these offers.
Or, kindly advice if we can go ahead with separate purchase for HU and Speakers ?
Advice and Suggestions are welcome, and thanks in advance.
Our budget is within 7k including HU and Speakers.
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/sony...dsx/2095098141
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/sony...9#ReviewHeader 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soumyajit9
(Post 3259502)
... He has basically shortlisted two combo offers available on Snapdeal.
We both are completely novice in ICE selection and need advice on whether to proceed with any one of these offers. ... |
Sony is not a well-respected brand in Car Audio - there are better ones. The least you can do is to go and listen to the speakers at least physically. These speakers are usually available in Reliance Autozone mounted on the audition rack. Please do compare them with Pioneer, JVC, Kenwood or JBL - brands which would also be there in Reliance. I am sure you will be able to perceive the difference.
Gentlemen
I need some urgent piece of advise here. I have a 4 channel amp (Alpine V12 MRV-F300S) and I need to connect a Subwoofer to it. Which would be the best VFM subwoofer under 5k range? Rest of the audio setup is couple of Infinity Reference component pairs installed on the doors.
The Infinity 12" 2-coil subwoofer from Snapdeal costs 3800 bucks (MRP 6600). Is it worth?
Quote:
Originally Posted by pahwa
(Post 3261326)
... The Infinity 12" 2-coil subwoofer from Snapdeal costs 3800 bucks (MRP 6600). Is it worth? |
It is good. The alternative would be JBL or Polk.
Since it is a DVC (Dual Voice Coil), please ensure that you order a 2+2 ohms model. Connect the VCs in series to get 4ohms. If you order a 4+4 ohms model and connect the VCs in parallel, you will get 2ohms - which you amplifier will not be able to drive in bridged mode. The amp can only drive a max. of 2ohms per channel, which would mean in bridged mode you should connect a minimum load of 4ohms.
A 4+4ohms DVC with coils in series would give 8ohms effective impedance - but then the power that can be pushed into the sub will be limited (100W rms max as per the manual).
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte
(Post 3261870)
It is good. The alternative would be JBL or Polk.
Since it is a DVC (Dual Voice Coil), please ensure that you order a 2+2 ohms model. Connect the VCs in series to get 4ohms. If you order a 4+4 ohms model and connect the VCs in parallel, you will get 2ohms - which you amplifier will not be able to drive in bridged mode. The amp can only drive a max. of 2ohms per channel, which would mean in bridged mode you should connect a minimum load of 4ohms.
A 4+4ohms DVC with coils in series would give 8ohms effective impedance - but then the power that can be pushed into the sub will be limited (100W rms max as per the manual). |
Thanks for your advice DerAlte. This is what the specifications say:
DIAMETER 12 Inch (300MM)
POWER HANDLING 300WRMS (1200WPEAK)
FREQUENCY RESPONSE 23HZ - 400HZ
NOMINAL IMPEDANCE 2 or 8 OHMS
VOICE COIL DIAMETER 2.0 Inch (51.0MM)
SENSITIVITY (2.83V @ 1M) 96dB
Does it still make sense to go with this SubWoofer?
ps. :OT I wonder how snapdeal can beat local market prices by upto 40% time and again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pahwa
(Post 3262465)
NOMINAL IMPEDANCE 2 or 8 OHMS
Does it still make sense to go with this SubWoofer?
ps. :OT I wonder how snapdeal can beat local market prices by upto 40% time and again. |
I believe the Sub you picked up is 4 OHM + 4 OHM which gives you the final Impedance of 2 OHM or 8 OHM, I'd suggest to find a sub with a single Voice coil of 4 OHM or Dual Voice coil with 2+2 OHM
Quote:
Originally Posted by pahwa
(Post 3262465)
... NOMINAL IMPEDANCE 2 or 8 OHMS ...
Does it still make sense to go with this SubWoofer? |
That's the 4+4ohms VC one that I talked of. No, this won't do - this would need a 2ohms-capable mono to drive it. For your amp, you have to look for SVC 4ohms or DVC 2+2ohms.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pahwa
(Post 3262465)
... I wonder how snapdeal can beat local market prices by upto 40% time and again. |
They try to move what is called "Non Moving Stock" in industry parlance! :D
What they are selling is NOT refurbished or damaged or fake stuff - just that the stuff is not the most popular. The ones advertized in ToI (Indiatimes or something, I am forgetting) is
even worse.
19th Nov 2012 - I had posted this --->
My car: i20 Magna
My ICE was was modified to:
Original 2DIN HU
Front door: 260W 6-1/2"(165mm) 2-Way Component System
Rear Door: 220W 6-1/2"(100mm) 2-Way Coaxial Speaker
Subwoofer: JBL GT5-1204BP 1100W 12"(300mm) Band-Pass Subwoofer Box
Amp: JBL GT-X646 800W 4-Channel Power Amplifier
They had also put in a Hi/Lo converter.
My ICE had a new addition on Saturday,
Everything remains the same except the HU and the Hi/Lo converter is gone as well.
The HU is now: AVH-P3490DVD
http://www.pioneer-india.in/shop/avh-p3490dvd/
Then I had some tuning issues, which after going around in circles was fixed amazingly well by Anwar (Koramangala)
Now the question to the guru's - On 11th Oct 2013, I realized this
The Radio works, The disc works - For some reason - iPod (which has always been working - always connected and stowed away in the glove box) is NOT working. :Shockked:
Not working as in - I select iPod - and then any song - it just displays - press play - Nothing happens. and It is not on mute.
Navin/DA - Any suggestions? I have looked at every setting and nothing seems suspect (as I have not fiddled with any controls at any time)
Thanks
Shubz
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shubz
(Post 3263743)
... The Radio works, The disc works - For some reason - iPod (which has always been working - always connected and stowed away in the glove box) is NOT working. :Shockked:
Not working as in - I select iPod - and then any song - it just displays - press play - Nothing happens. and It is not on mute. ... |
I assume that you are controlling the playback from the HU.
* Which generation iPod?
* Are you able to traverse collections / song list in the iPod? Does it filter properly based on genre, for example? If both are 'Yes', the HU is able to communicate properly with the iPod and read the file list
* Songs are in mp3 or ALAC or some other codec?
The only possibility is that the media file (which I assume plays fine on the iPod) is not understood by the HU.
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