Amplifier performace at different Volts.
I had a very technical query about Amplifiers. Power rating of amplifiers are done of specific Volts eg. 400 RMS @ 11 V , 800 RMS @ 12 V, 1500 RMS @ 14.4 V etc...
If i am not wrong the car batteries are something like 12 V?
So, my DD M3 amp, says that it outputs
2400 watts RMS @ 1 ohms at 12.8 V
2700 watts RMS @ 1 ohms at 14.4 V
3000+ watts RMS @ 1 ohms at 16 v
Now my question is that, if i want to run my system at 14.4 V, how can that be done? Car batteries are 12 V, do you get batteries above 12 V also? May be stupid question, but i am throughly confused.
I think with all the electrical components of your car running fine (Alternator, Battery etc.) your car's system voltage is around 14.4V by default. Don't know what'll be the effect of the amp's load on it though.
I think LBM/Tanveer/B&T/Navin/Sam/Gunbir can explain more.
Anyways, let wait for some expert comments.
12.6-12.8 : Engine turned off, only battery.
13.1-13.6 : Car running, without heavy electrical accessories.
14.4 : HOW?
Its good that you started this topic, even I was thinking of opening a similar thread.
Good charged battery gives around 13.2 V and after switching on the engine it goes upto 13.5-14.5 depends upon the engine RPM.
Now with electronic regulators we have 13.6-13.8V. Strictly speaking the ideal voltage for a battery drops with increasing ambient temperature.
12.6-12.8 : Engine turned off, only battery
13.1-13.6 : Engine running, electrical accessories running, battery charging
14.4 : Engine running, over-rated alternator + regulator, no other electrical accessories running (except ICE) and battery fully charged
Battery is 12V NOMINAL; does not mean voltage at the terminals cannot be more.
deralte phappe, you are right.
my cars volatge is around 12+ volts when not running and hovers between 13.6 to 13.8 with everything running. never got 14.4v though. lol
Fine... but what if i want to go upto 16.6 V....just a question, not my intension
Guys have bench tested the amp, and as said above it draw 2700 RMS @ 14.4 V, and 3200 RMS @ 16.6 V. So how can car electrical be pulled up to 16.6 V then?
DerAlte is correct. Without headlights and AC running, and battery fully charged, you would get around 14-14.4V on the terminals.
1.U need a deep-cycle battery like the Optima yellow top.
2.U'll need an uprated alternator to churn the current to charge the battery.
If U dont do the above,U'll be using up car batteries like eveready batteries used on digicams.
LBM has lived with a similar setup.So, he'll have a lot to say here.
The Load voltage is always less than non-load voltage at the output terminals of a power source.
So unless you have a 500A alternator, and your usage is 10A, you cannot escape voltage drop.
Ideally your voltage should not drop below 13V with ICE on.
If you are facing that, you should upgrade to a bigger alternator.
A high Ah battery is a stop gap solution.
You cannot maintain battery voltage of 14V or higher continuous unless you are using a bank of batteries and/ or high amperage alternators and/ or serial batteries of 2-4 volts.
Your setup without any power supply enhancements will run for the most part in the 11.5 to 12.5 volts range, for short periods.
One way is to mount another alternator with a full-wave bridge rectifier, with the regulator set for a different voltage.
BUT, are you sure the amp is rated to work at 16.6V without going up in smoke? Maybe you should read the fine print - it should say somewhere for how many seconds is that allowed! Amp electronics IS over-rated for safety - but SAFETY is the buzz-word.
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