Does the JBL GTO1004 compete the 75.4?

nitrous · 8th April 2008, 13:00

Thanks for the acknowledgment , Ajay.
We now need the great Google Singh ji or Sir Yeti for the exact figure.

Sam Kapasi · 8th April 2008, 13:24

The GTO1004 is 4 X 100W, each channel at 4 ohms.

It is 4 X 150W, each channel at 2 ohms.

Bridged, it is 280W X2, each channel at 4 ohms.

Baap re, so much you guys can argue, lol. Thanks for the PM Nitrous.

amit_mechengg · 8th April 2008, 13:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi

The GTO1004 is 4 X 100W, each channel at 4 ohms.

It is 4 X 150W, each channel at 2 ohms.

Bridged, it is 280W X2, each channel at 4 ohms.

Baap re, so much you guys can argue, lol. Thanks for the PM Nitrous.

SAM how do u rate GTO1004 over 75.4. what are the added advantages?

s0uljah · 8th April 2008, 15:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by amit_mechengg

SAM how do u rate GTO1004 over 75.4. what are the added advantages?

Me thinks the new extruded aluminum chassis would offer a lot more heat dissipation/cooling than the plexi of the 75.4 , in fact this might have been mentioned earlier by sam yeti kapsi during the discussion.

Wayne D · 29th September 2008, 10:48

Hey guys, so i need a little help with this.
I have a set of components in the front ( JBL CS2165C) and JL Audio co-ax speakers in the rear door of my SX4.
I need to add an amp, so i gotta choose between the 1004 and the GT5 A604. which one would ur'll suggest and why?
Thanks

Bass&Trouble · 29th September 2008, 11:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wayne D

I need to add an amp, so i gotta choose between the 1004 and the GT5 A604. which one would ur'll suggest and why?

The 1004 is a better amp and will cost more too. If its in your budget, get it.

Why? Like I said, better amp. More power too.

DjNik · 18th October 2008, 20:14

Sorry but i am confused here it says that the 1004 puts out
Bridged, it is 280W X2, each channel at 4 ohms.

The Jbl Site says that it is
320W RMS x 2 Channels at 4 Ohms
Here is the link-
JBL Car & Marine Audio

Could the gurus help please.
Thanx in advance.

mohitd · 24th October 2008, 21:37

Yep thats what the site says.
Gurus please throw some light.
Sam your required here.

Andy Wehmeyer · 25th November 2008, 19:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by shrivz

It wont be bad, but IMO 225W versus 284W would mean a lot of difference while running a sub. Headroom is at a bare minimum (if any) with the 1004.

Absolutely!!

EDIT: Just noticed, the 1004 is stable at 2ohms!

Any details on the DBO circuit and adjustable 'Q' feature with the mono amps? How do you adjust the Q? is there a frequency selection knob?

Ahhh....questions about Q. Q in an equalizer refers to the width of the filter and the formula for its value is Q=F/BW of (frequency divided by bandwidth. Q in a high pass or low pass filter refers to the shape of the filter above roll-off. Higher Q values have a peak before roll off and low Q values don't. Butterworth filters require a Q of .707.

The DBO circuit in the amplifiers is a high pass (subsonic filter) with a variable frequency control and a variable boost--or Q. It isn't a classical Q control, though. Basically, you can set the bass boost frequency using the Frequency control and dial in the amount of boost at that frequency. THe bass belw the frequency you choose will be attenuated to conserve power for boosting. Remember that a boost of 12dB requires 16x power!

gunbir · 25th November 2008, 23:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andy Wehmeyer

Ahhh....questions about Q. Q in an equalizer refers to the width of the filter and the formula for its value is Q=F/BW of (frequency divided by bandwidth. Q in a high pass or low pass filter refers to the shape of the filter above roll-off. Higher Q values have a peak before roll off and low Q values don't. Butterworth filters require a Q of .707.

The DBO circuit in the amplifiers is a high pass (subsonic filter) with a variable frequency control and a variable boost--or Q. It isn't a classical Q control, though. Basically, you can set the bass boost frequency using the Frequency control and dial in the amount of boost at that frequency. THe bass belw the frequency you choose will be attenuated to conserve power for boosting. Remember that a boost of 12dB requires 16x power!

Hello Andy! Welcome to TBHP!

On behalf of everyone here I must say we are pleased to have you here and look forward to your regular contribution to this forum. Enjoy your stay.

Guys, Andy is the Global Product Line Manager for JBL Car Audio and an excellent resource on car audio theory and practice both. We can all learn a lot from him.

shrivz · 25th November 2008, 23:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andy Wehmeyer

Ahhh....questions about Q. Q in an equalizer refers to the width of the filter and the formula for its value is Q=F/BW of (frequency divided by bandwidth. Q in a high pass or low pass filter refers to the shape of the filter above roll-off. Higher Q values have a peak before roll off and low Q values don't. Butterworth filters require a Q of .707.

The DBO circuit in the amplifiers is a high pass (subsonic filter) with a variable frequency control and a variable boost--or Q. It isn't a classical Q control, though. Basically, you can set the bass boost frequency using the Frequency control and dial in the amount of boost at that frequency. THe bass belw the frequency you choose will be attenuated to conserve power for boosting. Remember that a boost of 12dB requires 16x power!

Thanks for the reply Andy! this helps a layman like me get a clearer understanding on the DBO circuitry!

As far as filters are concerned, I'm pretty confused on the whole concept. A laymanish explanation on the subject would be highly appreciated! As little as I assume I've understood is that there are three basic types of filters. Bessel, Butterworth and Linkwitz Rylie out of which I guess Linkwitz Rylie is superior and has minimum Q factor at x-over / rolloff point. Please correct me where I'm wrong.

Please bear with my noobish questions as I'm completely new to this subject!

EDIT: Just read gunman's post, "Global Product Line Manager for JBL Car Audio" whoa! My questions must be super noobish for you Andy!

Sam Kapasi · 29th November 2008, 11:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andy Wehmeyer

Ahhh....questions about Q.

So, you signed up!! Well, here's someone who can put most audio Gurus to shame, lol.

How about an introduction thread Andy?

TheOne® · 29th November 2008, 13:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi

So, you signed up!! Well, here's someone who can put most audio Gurus to shame, lol.

How about an introduction thread Andy?

OHO, Andy on the forum??? WELCOME

Hope to see you again soon. I heard you had a great time in India.

speedzak · 30th November 2008, 10:31

Look who's here! :

A very warm Welcome, Andy!

Your description answering the questions was simply great. Thanks.

Sam Kapasi · 1st December 2008, 21:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheOne®

OHO, Andy on the forum??? WELCOME

Hope to see you again soon.I heard you had a great time in India.

Looks like the next time you'll see him will be in India then

Now to think of an excuse to drag him back here...

Andy won't come back for the audio, but he will come for the food heh heh.
By the way there would have been 3 of us JBL-wallahs on the forum Jenny, only you've quit, lol.

Sir Andrew, bring on the knowledge.

8th April 2008, 13:00	#16
nitrous Senior - BHPian Join Date: May 2004 Location: UAE/Lon/Madras Posts: 6,965 Thanked: 325 Times View My Garage	Thanks for the acknowledgment , Ajay. We now need the great Google Singh ji or Sir Yeti for the exact figure.
	() Thanks

8th April 2008, 13:24	#17
Sam Kapasi Distinguished - BHPian Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Mumbai (but wat Posts: 6,997 Thanked: 2,378 Times View My Garage	The GTO1004 is 4 X 100W, each channel at 4 ohms. It is 4 X 150W, each channel at 2 ohms. Bridged, it is 280W X2, each channel at 4 ohms. Baap re, so much you guys can argue, lol. Thanks for the PM Nitrous.
	() Thanks

29th September 2008, 10:48	#20
Wayne D BHPian Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: bangalore Posts: 36 Thanked: 0 Times	hey Hey guys, so i need a little help with this. I have a set of components in the front ( JBL CS2165C) and JL Audio co-ax speakers in the rear door of my SX4. I need to add an amp, so i gotta choose between the 1004 and the GT5 A604. which one would ur'll suggest and why? Thanks
	() Thanks

18th October 2008, 20:14	#22
DjNik BHPian Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Kolkata Posts: 340 Thanked: 3 Times	Gto 1004 Sorry but i am confused here it says that the 1004 puts out Bridged, it is 280W X2, each channel at 4 ohms. The Jbl Site says that it is 320W RMS x 2 Channels at 4 Ohms Here is the link- JBL Car & Marine Audio Could the gurus help please. Thanx in advance.
	() Thanks

24th October 2008, 21:37	#23
mohitd BHPian Join Date: May 2008 Location: Calcutta Posts: 140 Thanked: 2 Times	Yep thats what the site says. Gurus please throw some light. Sam your required here.
	() Thanks

30th November 2008, 10:31	#29
speedzak BANNED Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: India Posts: 4,347 Thanked: 27 Times	Look who's here! : A very warm Welcome, Andy! Your description answering the questions was simply great. Thanks.
	() Thanks