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One more thing , he offered me a Wiring kit(don't know the make) for Rs.1600/=
Now question is when JBL speakers come with wiring why at all we need full kit, we should pay only for the power cables(i.e from Battery to Amp) and RCA cables (from HU to Amp)
correct me if i 'm wrong. Do i need to go for that kit?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrey One more thing , he offered me a Wiring kit(don't know the make) for Rs.1600/=
Now question is when JBL speakers come with wiring why at all we need full kit, we should pay only for the power cables(i.e from Battery to Amp) and RCA cables (from HU to Amp)
correct me if i 'm wrong. Do i need to go for that kit? |
i think the wiring kit that the guy offered must be the power kit only which has a fuse box,the power cables(+ ve and ground) and also the remote wire..so yes u would need it..and you also will have to buy the RCA cables..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrey One more thing , he offered me a Wiring kit(don't know the make) for Rs.1600/=
Now question is when JBL speakers come with wiring why at all we need full kit, we should pay only for the power cables(i.e from Battery to Amp) and RCA cables (from HU to Amp)
correct me if i 'm wrong. Do i need to go for that kit? |
JBL Speakers do come with wire, but regular, ok-types wire. I do not recomend this for any high fidelity usage (With amplifiers etc)
The "Original" JBL wire kit (Called Subcon kit) comes with a Power cable, Earthing cable, P-connect/remote blue wire, a length of nice speaker wire and a good quality RCA cable (which , I suspect, is made by monster cable for JBL)
what is a P-connect / remote wire ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrey what is a P-connect / remote wire ? |
Any Car Amplifier has 3 power connections. a RED battery connection, a BLACK earthing/grounding connection and a BLUE turn-on connection.
The BLUER turn on connection has little or no current draw, it is just (as the name suggests) used to turn the amp on, or off.
When a 12V signal is applied to this wire, the amp is on, when the 12V is removed, the amp is off.
All head units have a p-connect/remote wire, (Naturally, blue in colour) that gives out the triggering 12V output when the HU is on.
what can i do to prevent my front door from vibrating.i have the jbl 426 installed and at times when the bass i high it vibrates a lot and causes a jarring sound something like brrrhh..(hahah) after every beat .so what can i do to eliminate or lessen that.
Rev
Dynamat is one option.
Quote:
Originally Posted by navin Dynamat is one option. |
What could be the other options?
to cut the bass from the GTO426e, using a passive or active crossover
To further elaborate on that: It would be possible to connect, or use the active crossover ONLY in a speaker with an external amplifier. (Certain HU's also have a HPF feature which can be used even if the speakers are directly connected to the amplifier)
In case the speakers are running in parallel with another set of speakers that are full range and it is not possible to go to HPF mode, then a passive crossover can be made, a simple one using some non-polar (hehheh heh Navin, remember the fiasco?) capacitors, or 2 polar, electrolytic capacitors, back to back. Sorry if that sounded confusing, it's not. Let me know how the 426e's are connected and i will help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi ... active crossover ONLY in a speaker with an external amplifier. (Certain HU's also have a HPF feature which can be used even if the speakers are directly connected to the amplifier).... |
sam/ navin/JB,
what exactly is the usage of the HPF and the LPF?
how would we make use of this option (by selecting the different frequencies, of course, but how to know which freq to select)?
could someone please clarify on this?
thanks,
ak
hey AK.
I'm not going to google this lol.
HPF: High pass filter. Allows high frequencies to pass, blocks bass (low frequencies)
When you use a smaller speaker that either cannot reproduce bass, or a cone that sort of distorts at low frequencies, you engage an HPF.
For example, i find that 4" co-axial speakers on the dashboard, are able to handle mids and highs better when you cut them off at about 60-70Hz. (This is merely an example, not a rule)
LPF: Low pass filter. Obviously, the exact opposite. Allows the bass (low frequencies) to go thru, and blocks the higher frequencies.
Always used when driving a subwoofer. Basically the subwoofer focusses on low frequencies, (say for example 80Hz and below, again, merely an example, not a rule)
Usage: If it were me, and I was using 2 speakers and a 12" subwoofer. I would normally cut the subwoofer off at about 80Hz (means i would engage the LPF on the sub channel)
I would then cut the speakers off at the same frequency, meaning use the HPF at 80Hz, thereby allowing the speakers to handle everything else that the sub is not handling.
None of this is Fixed, hard and fast. Most of it is best played by your ears and the ears of an experienced installer.
For example, when using a nice speaker, (like a 6X9) i find that some people prefer to run it in full range (no filters used) and boost the lows by using a subwoofer with an LPF. The result, though not technically correct, SOUNDS good to some folks, so is perfectly acceptable.
@Sam:
Walk in Customers:
Delhi - Tutor. (a teacher?)
Bangalore - Chilling sound.(horror music?)
They both wanted treble. Sigh.
LOL stuff !
So true and both words( tutor and chilling sound) belong to bangalore only! :D
All A/V recievers will use Hotel California Song only as their playing material and turn the volume to the maximum so that you get deaf! ( Is it the same now?)
Sam, i have a question if i get an Alpine HU from say Japan or the US, will it be any better..quality wise and will i get the international warranty.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi hey AK.
HPF: High pass filter. Allows high frequencies to pass, blocks bass (low frequencies)
When you use a smaller speaker that either cannot reproduce bass, or a cone that sort of distorts at low frequencies, you engage an HPF.
For example, i find that 4" co-axial speakers on the dashboard, are able to handle mids and highs better when you cut them off at about 60-70Hz. (This is merely an example, not a rule)
LPF: Low pass filter. Obviously, the exact opposite. Allows the bass (low frequencies) to go thru, and blocks the higher frequencies.
Always used when driving a subwoofer. Basically the subwoofer focusses on low frequencies, (say for example 80Hz and below, again, merely an example, not a rule)
Usage: If it were me, and I was using 2 speakers and a 12" subwoofer. I would normally cut the subwoofer off at about 80Hz (means i would engage the LPF on the sub channel)
I would then cut the speakers off at the same frequency, meaning use the HPF at 80Hz, thereby allowing the speakers to handle everything else that the sub is not handling.
None of this is Fixed, hard and fast. Most of it is best played by your ears and the ears of an experienced installer.
For example, when using a nice speaker, (like a 6X9) i find that some people prefer to run it in full range (no filters used) and boost the lows by using a subwoofer with an LPF. The result, though not technically correct, SOUNDS good to some folks, so is perfectly acceptable. |
thanks a ton sam,
precise and to the point.
hope i put it to good use with my set of sensors (ears i meant :D).
ak
hey sam
sorry for the late reply...the 426 are directly connected to the HU and so are the 936...no amp as of now and my Hu doesn have a HPF
how is the pioneer 5650 and approx price. ??
Rev
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