Team-BHP - Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!
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rev, maybe these can help
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-eLznvhD...h=bass+blocker

http://www.electronixwarehouse.com/c...s-blockers.htm

hye navin thanx a lot for the links


Rev

i think the trend of using bass blockers is already in practice..atleast my old dealer in bangalore did provide me with bass blockers for the tweeters..still have them in my alto..

Quote:

Originally Posted by mclaren1885
i think the trend of using bass blockers is already in practice..atleast my old dealer in bangalore did provide me with bass blockers for the tweeters..still have them in my alto..

Is it a filter? ready made stuff?

mclaren, bass blockers for tweeters are a lot easier/cheaper than that for woofers. the lower the freq. the higher the value of the cap. if you look at the second link you will notice that the cap values can be quite high (order of 1000uf).

Quote:

Originally Posted by muni
All A/V recievers will use Hotel California Song only as their playing material and turn the volume to the maximum so that you get deaf! ( Is it the same now?)

Absolutely. lol
Quote:

Originally Posted by muni
Sam, i have a question if i get an Alpine HU from say Japan or the US, will it be any better..quality wise and will i get the international warranty.

Normally my answer would be no. But i have noticed that electronics bought IN japan are sometimes better built, maybe for the japanese market, i dont know. International warranty - applicable in India? No, I do not think Alpine homours international warranties in India... only the units that are purchased here.

A simple bass blocker can be constructed using a non-polar capacitor. If the values are not available, you can use 2 regualr polar electrolytic caps.
For the GTO 426e I have used 220mfd, 47V, back to back and it sounded pretty decent.

i would upgrade that by using a 1mfd poly bypass as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkdas
whats the mrp of those BOSS. just curious

I got Boss Riot R694 for Rs 4000 with B&W. Peak is 500 W and RMS claimed by BOSS is 250 W RMS and yes they rock.

Hi Guys
I am thinking of adding an Amp and a Sub to my system. I plan to run the 4 inch fronts from HU . Amp will drive the Rears and the Sub. The boot in my Matiz is properly enclosed with MDF tray and thus creates a good box like environment for the sound.

I want to know if the sub could be installed on the MDF tray, It is quarter inch wide, seems pretty thick. Which sub and Amp would you recommend? Are there 8 inch subs available? My budget again is limited so kindly suggest something that is Good(kewl) and cheap that wouldn't conk off...
Thank you

Quote:

Originally Posted by zzzehar
Hi Guys
I am thinking of adding an Amp and a Sub to my system. I plan to run the 4 inch fronts from HU . Amp will drive the Rears and the Sub. The boot in my Matiz is properly enclosed with MDF tray and thus creates a good box like environment for the sound.

I want to know if the sub could be installed on the MDF tray, It is quarter inch wide, seems pretty thick. Which sub and Amp would you recommend? Are there 8 inch subs available? My budget again is limited so kindly suggest something that is Good(kewl) and cheap that wouldn't conk off...
Thank you

not sure if your MDF tray will take up the weight of the sub but u can try nonetheless..
one 8'' sub i would recommend is the hertz ES200.1...very good sub and at Rs 5140 its worth every penny..as far as my knowledge goes JBL doesnt make 8'' subs..sony,pioneer,blaupunkt and alpine not too sure about the availability in the market..
so best option would be ES 200+sony 504 or ES 200+blau pa-275 and run the fronts and the rears off the HU..unless you give a correct budget hard to comment..
PS: nice to see back..

if your HU allows you to use RCA and speaker out at the same time get the 504. then use 2 ch. of the 504 to power the front (4") and 2 ch. (bridged) to power the sub. use the HU rear speaker out to power the rear speakers.

the MDF try should be 3/4" atleast. 1" is recomended. 1/4" is too thin.

and mate try to fix a iron rod (bar?) under the mfd tray. just ignore this post if you already have one.

and i think you better stick with Hertz 8incher like Mclaren said unless its too pricey for you.

iron rod? I think chaning the tray to 19mm or 25mm might be easier and cheaper.

yup. would cost 800 at max. The one i bought, a custom fit for santro was done in a very prof. way and it cost me just 800. If i remember I will take a pic later and post it.


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