[chiragh_bir]

@makanaka ...
I have dumped P80RSII and went for kenwood 7016 for a better sound ( for my ears ) & am using it with rainbow SAC 265 compos with genesis series III dual mono amp !

[bhatmaster]

Originally Posted by navin

The CD300 is capable of driving efficient car audio speakers. it puts out about 8W rms from the speaker terminals and has one set of preouts that can be used for a subwoofer.

here is more information on it
CD-300

Then it ruins out my plan for using the home audio driver. 8 W@4 Ohms RMS is just not sufficient to drive home audio drivers .

CD 300 is then out of scope although I was getting it for around 6000 INR.

[bhatmaster]

Any other suggesiton folks, how about clarion CZ500?
But, somehow the pioneer/Kenwood model numbers you discuss here cannot be found on US/ UK websites. Do they follow a different numbering pattern for their models?

[Sankar]

@bhatmaster: Or get a basic Alpine HU and get an Alpine KTP 445 amplifier. It doesn't need any external wiring as it takes its power from the head unit wiring harness and so i guess its power requirement would be much much lower than a regular amplifier and it may not drain your battery. Guess it solves your RMS requirement and battery drain problems.

Alpine Electronics of America, Inc.

[bhatmaster]

Originally Posted by Sankar

@bhatmaster: Or get a basic Alpine HU and get an Alpine KTP 445 amplifier. It doesn't need any external wiring as it takes its power from the head unit wiring harness and so i guess its power requirement would be much much lower than a regular amplifier and it may not drain your battery. Guess it solves your RMS requirement and battery drain problems.

Alpine Electronics of America, Inc.

Very Good suggestion Sankar, I dint know about any of this kind of amp. Lemme try to look out of this amp now.
How much does this cost in India?

[Sankar]

Originally Posted by bhatmaster

Very Good suggestion Sankar, I dint know about any of this kind of amp. Lemme try to look out of this amp now.
How much does this cost in India?

I don't know how much it costs here but the US price is fair enough i guess.
It provides around 45WRMS per channel.

[Invinsible]

Also like to add look for a speaker with higher sensitivity. Such speakers are more efficient and demand less power than compared to others. With low out RMS and high efficiency speakers means it could get loud when needed. Also look for speakers with output capability not more than50-60rms. This would good be match if you plan to get the
Alpine unit that Sanker suggested.
The downside of some of the high sensitivity speakers available in the market is most find the tweeter to be a bit on the brighter side however you tame it down by mounting them close to the woofer (incase of components only).

Would like to know whats the budget on the speakers ?

[bhatmaster]

Hi Invinsible, thanks for your suggestion.
As I'm not too fond of car speakers and their drivers, I'm looking out for a small project of using the home audio drivers which may produce near to audiophile sound. There is a separate thread going on for this.
So, getting a higher sensitivity speaker is out of option now, even they will be 8 Ohm minimal impedence compared to 4 Ohms of the car speakers.

[navin]

Originally Posted by bhatmaster

Any other suggesiton folks, how about clarion CZ500?

Alsmost all car HUs use chip amps (using a 12V DC supply) like the TDA1554, 1562, 2003, 2005, 7377 etc.. these chip amps are then bridged to give about 10W rms (not peak or music power as advertised). You wont get a car HU with a bigger amp than that.

Originally Posted by bhatmaster

So, getting a higher sensitivity speaker is out of option now, even they will be 8 Ohm minimal impedence compared to 4 Ohms of the car speakers.

I assume you mena NOMINAL not minimal.

Originally Posted by Invinsible

The downside of some of the high sensitivity speakers available in the market is most find the tweeter to be a bit on the brighter side however you tame it down by mounting them close to the woofer (incase of components only).

The other method is to modify the crossover and pad the tweeter down a bit. a 4ohm /10W resistor between the amp and the series cap in teh tweeter's XO can be used. It will drop most tweeter sensitivities by about 3db.

[bhatmaster]

Dear Gurus,
I was thinking about another solution which is kind of little funny. As discussed in the other thead, I'll design the response slopes of woofer and tweeter separately and connect them to the front and rear channel of the HU. By that, my front channel will be driving the tweeters and rear channel will drive the woofers through the separate crossover circuit. It is a little similar concept like Bi-Amping.
By adjusting the fader settting in HU, I can then manage the outputs of woofer and tweeter, no separate padding is necessary. I'll measure them with my SPL meter to get the response flat and fix the fader adjustment in a particular point. Will not change afterwards.

My car will have two speakers only in front and in near/far future there is no possibility of expansion any more. So, how do you comment about this approach and which HU is recommended then.

[navin]

Originally Posted by bhatmaster

My car will have two speakers only in front and in near/far future there is no possibility of expansion any more. So, how do you comment about this approach and which HU is recommended then.

Why not bhatmaster! It wont harm anything. I would love to see a TAed subwoofer added to that set up though.

[bhatmaster]

So Navin, you think this approach can solve the lack of power from HU? ( In a trciky way though).
Which HU is recommended , how is Alpine CDE100 or clarion CZ500?

[bhatmaster]

Originally Posted by navin

Why not bhatmaster! It wont harm anything. I would love to see a TAed subwoofer added to that set up though.

What does 'TAed' mean here?

[abhipuru16]

TA stands for Time Alignment

[navin]

Originally Posted by bhatmaster

So Navin, you think this approach can solve the lack of power from HU? ( In a trciky way though).
Which HU is recommended , how is Alpine CDE100 or clarion CZ500?

NO it wont solve that as 75-85% of the power is needed by the midwoofer.

For example on typical music I listen to (70s Rock, Jazz, Blues, Classical) 50% of the energy is under 300Hz, 65% is under 1200Hz, 75% is under 2500Hz, 90% is under 5000Hz. So if you are XOing at say 12db/2500Hz then 75% of the power would be needed by the midbass and only 25% for the tweeter.