[dass]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

If you don't mind can you explain the problem you are facing?

My problem is exactly the same as what Moto_Guzzi has quoted in his first post. the stabilizer bars were changed, Caliper pins were replaced, Struts I am not very sure. what I observed was bush in the lower arm of the right side had deformed, though there was no leakage as per the SA. I am wondering if the clunk sound is caused by that deformed bush.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by dass

I am wondering if the clunk sound is caused by that deformed bush.

Caliper pins were replaced, Right?

My doubt is whether the pins were fitting tight? I mean we they having any vertical play?

[Moto_Guzzi]

Originally Posted by dass

My problem is exactly the same as what Moto_Guzzi has quoted in his first post. the stabilizer bars were changed, Caliper pins were replaced, Struts I am not very sure. what I observed was bush in the lower arm of the right side had deformed, though there was no leakage as per the SA. I am wondering if the clunk sound is caused by that deformed bush.

Before getting the Pins wrapped in Teflon tape there was a vertical play when the caliper was moved vertically, if you try to shake the caliper with force it would itself make a clunking sound or you could feel a metal to metal contact, Post the Teflon tape method the clunking sound is disappeared.

Although I am experiencing high road noise inside the cabin with increase of speed, I love a tomb like silence inside the car, I have also done a DIY damping on all the doors,my next step would be to check the Control arms, stabiliser rod or Tie rod for excessive road noise.

Further if at all any play develops in the caliper I would go ahead with @a4anurag's suggestion of getting the pins brass welded and get it machined on a lathe with some +tolerance then the standard dimensions.

Also while searching the internet I found caliper pins with bushings inserted in them, I have attached a image below of the same.
I observed that this types of pins were available after market in UK for swift models 2010-2014. The reason I am attaching this picture is that, these caliper pins with bushings can arrest the play and vibrations, similarly I saw the same caliper clunking sound issue troubling the Chevrolet Cruze customers, Chevrolet Cruze has the same type of pins with bushings as shown in attached image for swift UK, one of the Cruze owner mentioned that a particular order of inserting pins solved his problem he inserted the pin with the bushings in the bottom most caliper hole and the solid one in the top most caliper hole, reason he gave was the lower pin is subjected to more rubbing and grinding then the upper when breaks are applied in vehicle moving forward condition.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by Moto_Guzzi

I would go ahead with @a4anurag's suggestion of getting the pins brass welded and get it machined on a lathe with some + tolerance then the standard dimensions.

Yes, i had the metal to metal 'gad' 'gad' like sound when go over any undulations.

I have got the caliper pins arc welded yesterday and there isn't any play now that attributes the clubbing noise.





Post the arc welding + lathe work, the car is back to its beauty again. I am fully relieved.

@Moto Guzzi and Dass please check your cars respective caliper pins and get it corrected.

Originally Posted by dass

I am wondering if the clunk sound is caused by that deformed bush.

[dass]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Caliper pins were replaced, Right?

My doubt is whether the pins were fitting tight? I mean we they having any vertical play?

Yes, they were replaced and there was no play after it. The sound exists though.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by dass

Yes, they were replaced and there was no play after it. The sound exists though.

Then it is lower arm.

Try swapping a lower arm of another car and go for a TD. If it is silent then buy a new pair and fit it on yours.

[Moto_Guzzi]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Yes, i had the metal to metal 'gad' 'gad' like sound when go over any undulations.

I have got the caliper pins arc welded yesterday and there isn't any play now that attributes the clubbing noise.


Post the arc welding + lathe work, the car is back to its beauty again. I am fully relieved.

@Moto Guzzi and Dass please check your cars respective caliper pins and get it corrected.

@a4anurag, can you please share any details for the welding method over the pins, can you please share the dimensions and tolerances to be kept for the pins.

I will get the pins arc welded this weekend, I will try it on my old pins also please suggest if I need to go for a brass or normal weld.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by Moto_Guzzi

I will get the pins arc welded this weekend, I will try it on my old pins also please suggest if I need to go for a brass or normal weld.

I have gone with normal arc welding on the caliper pins.

Process that I followed for my Swift:

1. Remove the wheels, caliper using 12mm socket. Then remove the Pads and remove the caliper support body (aluminum frame that holds the pads and caliper) using an 18 mm socket.

2. Check the Inner Diameter (approximately) of the caliper pin bore (hole in which the caliper pin sits).

2. Take the calipers pin and perform the arc welding over it. Let it cool for half an hour or so then take the over a lathe.

3. Gradually smoothen out the weld to OE shape. Keep checking the fitment of the caliper pins in the bore. Get it so tight only that it should move freely in the horizontal direction. No vertical play at all.

4. Once the lathe job is complete, ask that guy to make two flat channels on the caliper pins for air release*

5. Grease the caliper pins and Reassemble everything and go for a TD.**

Here are the values for my car:

Inner Diameter of caliper pin bore: 8 mm in left side wheel and 8.1 mm on right side.

New Caliper pins were having an outer diameter ranging between 7.3 to 7.9mm. We brought this to 8mm and 8.1mm respectively.

*This is an important step and if ignored can damage the brake pads and rotor as the brakes won't release completely due to sticky caliper movement as the air is trapped inside the caliper pin bore.

**When refitting everything back do NOT mix the caliper pins as every caliper pin /caliper pin bore is unique in the wear. So be careful to keep all pins in its same bore while reassembly.

[procrj]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

I have already purchased a 3 Ton Jack stands

Please share details. Are you also using a hydraulic jack? I have been on the lookout for one but haven’t found anything with decent reviews online. any recommendations?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by procrj

Please share details. Are you also using a hydraulic jack? I have been on the lookout for one but haven't found anything with decent reviews online. any recommendations?

I have purchased a regular 3 ton Jack stand not the hydraulic one. Paid 1890 for pair on Amazon.in. Awaiting delivery.

Here's the link to the item:

https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00WUFBUK2/..._UCE-xb9Y8VP3V

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by procrj

Please share details. Are you also using a hydraulic jack? I have been on the lookout for one but haven’t found anything with decent reviews online. any recommendations?

I bought a pair of 3 ton Jack stands from JC road for 1350 a month ago. Don't remember the name of the shop but here's the approximate location

https://goo.gl/maps/ddqPaTXL6un

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

I have replaced the Caliper Pins with New Ones and used the Grease that came with them.
But what about the Grease to be used while re-greasing after say 7-8 Kkms.
I am not able to source High Temperature withstanding Grease in my city.
Can I use the Long Life Grease (suitable for Wheel Bearing) for above? What about High Temperature Withstanding Capabilities of Long Life Grease?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by IndigoXLGrandDi

I am not able to source High Temperature withstanding Grease in my city.

Hey, do check this out:

https://www.amazon.in/dp/B000M8IF1Q/..._owULyb4DMQJ90

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Hey, do check this out:

https://www.amazon.in/dp/B000M8IF1Q/..._owULyb4DMQJ90

Thanks. The product you recommended is expensive. It is ₹1371/- for @70gms. I guess its because its imported (checked on amazon.com site).
How many lubrication cycles can be done with the above?

Is the below mentioned good enough?
http://mshop.rediff.com/product/xado...rease/16397803
Its ₹400/- for 320ml. Any idea about its longetivity?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by IndigoXLGrandDi

Is the below mentioned good enough?

Its ₹400/- for 320ml. Any idea about its longetivity?

I too surfed and saw this as an alternative. I used one of their other product (Xado EGR Cleaner). Found it good enough so I'll trust these guys.

You can go ahead. I'll be ordering 2 units of these.