[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by Sutripta

I'm still surprised/ perplexed.

This is the privilege of being inexperienced! Sometimes not thinking through, due to lack of knowledge/competence might present one with completely new approaches

Ignorance is bliss as they say!

Some might say it was just sheer luck, but according to my wife it was another moment of sheer brilliance! Good enough for me.

Jeroen

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by Sutripta

Also intrigued by how you managed to drill a hole at an angle where an existing hole was already drilled. That is a trick I'd like to know.

That one sent a shiver down my spine. I wondered what you would have to say about it!

[Jeroen]

With my tools and now ultrasonic cleaner my position in the family has been elevated to jeweller repair and cleaning too. My daughter brought along all her jewellery and that of a friend the other day, to get it cleaned.

Working on the safety clip on my wife’s bracelet. I am always a bit cautious when working on jewellery. You don’t want to mess it up, don’t want my wife to lose it, because I did not fix it properly. I managed to get it bend back in shape, sort of. But it needs seeing to by a proper jeweller.



Back to cars for a change:

Got the old Haynes manual out to check what needed doing on Luc’s Golf GTI



I have also made this spreadsheet containing all the relevant data I often need when working on these cars



Luc had told me he had to fill up the brake fluid reservoir not to long ago. No leaks, just low on fluid. Which is normal, but does indicate (normal) wear of the pads/discs. I knew we checked them last time too, but I did not write down the measurements.

Luc was supposed to arrive at around 09.30 so I got everything ready for him.





First thing, with the engine still warm, drain the engine oil. We normally do this with the front of the car sitting over the entrance of the garage. That usually gives us sufficient clearance to get at the sump plug and put the oil drain canister underneath. But the the drain plug on the Golf is at the back on the sump. So putting the front wheels up, actually allows the sump to drain even better and gives us better acces underneath too.



Me doing my usual checking old versus new part, in this case the engine oil filter



With the Golf on axle stands we proceeded to take the wheels off and check the discs and pads for wear. Luc busy with my fancy special disc calliper.

Front one were almost new!



Rear ones still have 1mm left on the disc and the pads. Luc hardly drive this car, maybe 5-7500 km a year and he is thinking of selling it, so no need to change them now. Made a note for next year. If he still wants to keep the car we will change them then. Easy job on the Golf.



All wheel nuts properly torqued. Getting the lug nuts off was a real pain. Luc had four new tyres fitted not too long ago and those guys had overtorqued all bolts. It was ridiculous. It took a lot of strength with a huge wrench to get them off. The pneumatic torque wrench would not even budge them!



We also checked the brake fluid for water content. I have one of these fancy little electronic testers. Not sure how accurate they really are, but for now this is good enough. It showed less than 1% water content.



Filling up the engine with fresh new (synthetic) engine oil.



With the car still on the axle stands I dived underneath and took the little drive shaft of the speedo sensor out of the gear box. I wanted to check if it was broken, or anything amiss.



But no, it was fine. Which means we need to look at other causes for the speedo not working. So I phoned the contact I was given earlier who has a proper VAG diagnostic kit. He was happy to help out, but just did not have the time now. So we will have to come back for that some day.

We also did a bit of greasing. Inpspected the engine bay for any problems, leaks. This car is fitted with a K&N air filter, so we cleaned and recharged that too.

Lastly I resented the service indicator with my OBD analyser





I thought I did it correctly, but somehow the service indicator was still showing. Luc is coming back on Saturday as we are throwing a party for his birthday. We will check again. Also, I wanted to do a full system scan which takes about an hour. We will hook my analyser up and let it do its thing whilst we party!

With Luc’s Golf fully service it was time to spend a bit more time on my cars. The Spider had developed a funny noise. Whenever I depress the clutch pedal I heard something clicking, definitely some metal to metal sound.

Managed to trace it back to the master cilinder using my special stethoscope. I remembered having one or two old ones. So before starting to disassemble the one installed in the Spider I decided to have a good close look at the old one




This is how it all holds together. Master cilinder, piston, spring and mechanical fork.



The only way to get any mechanical sounds is where the piston meets the fork assembly. It also has a small spring and the end is machined to fit in a similar recess on the piston.



So I took off the master cilinder on the Spider from its mount. Left the hydraulic line in place. Which gave me enough clearance to pull back the rubber boot. I turned the fork assembly 180 degrees, so it is orientated differently and packed a lot of grease in it. So far so good!



Jeroen

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Working on the safety clip on my wife’s bracelet. I am always a bit cautious when working on jewellery. You don’t want to mess it up, don’t want my wife to lose it, because I did not fix it properly. I managed to get it bend back in shape, sort of. But it needs seeing to by a proper jeweller.

This is before, right? (excuse my taking the liberty of detailing your pic)

This would be your starter kit (in fact, it is almost my entire jewellery-plier collection)

edit: added a poor attempt to show the plier profiles better:

If you do not have any yet, then you can imagine how vital the round-nose pliers are for this sort of thing. In fact they are probably all you need for this task.

NB: what makes these Jewellers' tools is the absolute lack of serrations. You have to have smooth-face pliers for gold and silver

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

This is before, right?

Yes, this before, after is better, but not by much, but at least it clicks safely close.

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

NB: what makes these Jewellers' tools is the absolute lack of serrations. You have to have smooth-face pliers for gold and silver

I have all these pliers, BUT, they all are just plain pliers, with serrations! So really not suitable to handle Gold/Silver. Or only very delicately. But I think I have just found myself a perfect excuse to get another set of pliers!

Jeroen

[Jeroen]

A bit of a dreary rainy windy Sunday morning. Perfect weather for a bit of fiddling.

In all honesty, I am running out of jobs to do. My little white board is empty. I did note the date/mileage of filling it up with oil. I need to get a more precise measurement on how much oil it is really using.



Next week I have a nice Spider tour, organised by the Dutch Alfa Spider Register. Just to get to the starting point is almost 200km. So I dare say I will do about 500km in a single day. 4/5 motorway running at 3500 RPM. Lets see what that does to the oil level.

As I noted some weeks ago, the Spider rear right indicator has been given me some problem. Twice it failed during a tour. Twice I got it fixed, but without really knowing what I did. Other than taking it apart, bit of cleaning etc.

So time to investigate properly

Spider has by far, the most stuff in the boot all the time. Everything needs to come out:



Of course, make sure you know what you are doing. Which means when working on electrics, make sure you have a diagram handy. I recently had these Spider electrical diagrams printed on A3 and laminated:




Comes in handy:



Take away some of the upholstery:



Some more and some proper lighting to see what I am doing



Took out the socket for the indicator and for the brake light. They are connected on a common ground. The ground is in fact common to all lights and I don’t have any other problems.



But on the diagram I also noted a common connector for all the rear lights. So dug it up from behind the upholstery and it looked not that great.



Had a good look at the bulbs and came up with something interesting. The glass bulb on the right is completely detached from the fitting.



Here it shows a bit more pronounced:



Remarkably, it was still working and it came out/into the fitting by twisting a bit with no problem either. Never the less, that is a bulb failure waiting to happen, so I replaced it. Had to rummage through various spare parts boxes and boots of all my cars to find a replacement.



Need to get myself some spare light bulbs. Cleaned everything thoroughly, tightened the various contacts on the fittings a bit, put everything back again. Lets see if it works.



Also, fixed my little flashlight I keep in the Spider. Last time when the indicator broke, I noticed it wasn’t working anymore. Batteries are fine, so was the bulb. Needed a bit of cleaning, put some new batteries in as well.



I keep a simple multimeter in all my cars. Just in case. When I used the one in the Spider last time, to check a few things on the broken indicator, I noticed the display getting very weak. So I replaced its battery. Not sure, but I think I must have had this little multimeter for over twenty years. First time I am replacing the battery.



With the Spider all sorted I decided to run some tests on my Lathe. My Dutch lathe-forum friends have suggested that something might be amiss with my lathe as I was having problems with using the various reamers on my little wobble engine. The finish just was not as good as it should be.

So I decided to try it out. Got all my drills and reamers out. I have quite the collection now!



Cleaned my lathe meticulously. Put a 30mm bit of steel round bar in the chuck.



Carefully adjusted for the correct height and squared it off


Drilled with the centre drill, 2,5 mm



With a 2.5 mm drill and a 5.9 mm drill



Next the 6mm reamer. Real slow RPMs, lots of cutting oil and on retracting blew a lot of air through it

This time the finish looks pretty good. In fact by eye it looks better than on this photograph somehow. You will have to take my word for it.



So I don’t think there is anything amiss with my lathe, it is just me not being very good on some aspects of using the lathe.


By the time I had cleaned away everything it was still raining so I decided to give my bicycle a quick clean too. Just like previous time, Hosed it down with the special cleaning solution on the bicycle stand. I did take the little guidance wheels apart as they tend to get very mucky





I am quite pleased with this combination of chain and sprockets. I checked for wear again and it still shows virtually no wear. I have been adhering slightly more rigorous cleaning and oiling regime, so far so good!!

Jeroen

[Jeroen]

I have been doing some research into what project I am going to do next. With research comes books, of course. Bought myself a few books on model steam engines. There are about a billion steam model books out there.

The Dutch Handboek Model Stoommachines is to what all the Dutch steam model enthusiast refer to. It is a 1978 edition. That is of course the interesting thing with steam engines. Nothing gets outdated!



It is a very good book with lots of practical information on how steam engines and boilers work in real life and how to build models of them.

The English one was just a book that flashed up on my Amazon search and it was very cheap so I got that one too. Quite informative too. I love that model on the cover!

For my next project I want to make sure it is a bit more difficult than my Wobble engine. Also, would be good if it adds some additional technology and or techniques. Given my current state I need very simple very clear drawings. I will not even look at drawings unless they are metric.

Also, I am conscious of what my lathe (and me) can handle in terms of size. These steam engines tend to come with big fly wheels. I am not so sure on how large a diameter I could realistically run on my little lathe. I am not even sure how they make these larger flywheels. I need to find out, some might be casted I guess.

I have been looking at these Stuart Steam engines:

https://www.stuartmodels.com

You buy castings in essence and need to machine them yourself. (and assemble of course)

But I am sort of homing in on this little two stroke engine:







It’s quite a bit more complex than my Wobble engine. It will require more precision machining. It has some new techniques in it. (Soldering). The drawings are very clear and all metric. The author Jan de Ridder appears to be a bit of a legend in the world of Modelling.

http://ridders.nu/Webpaginas/pagina_...t_frameset.htm

All of these engines of him are of his own design and making. He has done more than forty of them. Also, he is Dutch and approachable if I have any questions.

We will see. I would have loved to go to a few Steam Model events to see some more, talk to some people. But that is not to be. There are a few small events scheduled for later this year.

Figuring out what to do I part of the fun!

Jeroen

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Also, I am conscious of what my lathe (and me) can handle in terms of size. These steam engines tend to come with big fly wheels. I am not so sure on how large a diameter I could realistically run on my little lathe. I am not even sure how they make these larger flywheels. I need to find out, some might be casted I guess.

Don't let one oversize piece stop you from a design you like. You can always get that machined outside. If the flywheel is cast rather than machined from billet, it most probably comes as a kit. Or sourcing information is given. The kit supplier/ source will help you with machining that oversize item.

The standard hobby lathe used to be the 7 inch. 8 inch for 'professional' hobby. All models should be doable on those.

For your next project, how about a kinetic sculpture?

Sutripta

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by Sutripta

The kit supplier/ source will help you with machining that oversize item.

I checked three suppliers of kits (all casts) and neither of them would help out. They supply the kit, any machining to be done is your problem. They were very upfront too. They all said more or less the same, if you havent got the lathe to properly machine the fly wheel on this model, maybe you should reconsider all together. Apparently, a large number of these kits never ever make it to the final stage. Lots of people buy them, few manage to finish them.

Originally Posted by Sutripta

The standard hobby lathe used to be the 7 inch. 8 inch for 'professional' hobby. All models should be doable on those.

From what I have read, these hobby machines, even though advertised as a 7 inch, are unlikely to do well. But I have no experience other than turning down the little flywheel on my Wobbler and that was very slow going! But again, maybe with practice I can do better.

Originally Posted by Sutripta

For your next project, how about a kinetic sculpture?

I did, but I could not find any good, easy to read and understand plans. If you know of any website, please do share. But then again, I am probably still more engineer than artist! But I would like to do something different too.

Jeroen

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

I checked three suppliers of kits (all casts) and neither of them would help out. They supply the kit, any machining to be done is your problem. They were very upfront too. They all said more or less the same, if you havent got the lathe to properly machine the fly wheel on this model, maybe you should reconsider all together.

That's strange. Gives me the impression that they are 'traders', rather than make with your own hand hobbysts who later got into the trade.

Apparently, a large number of these kits never ever make it to the final stage. Lots of people buy them, few manage to finish them.

One of the reasons I would not suggest a kit which needs machining till one has reached a certain level of proficiency. You mess up one part, and your only recourse is to order that part separately. We do know the cost of spares for cars!

I did, but I could not find any good, easy to read and understand plans.

How about Theo Jansen's work. He is Dutch, so ... (Not lathe oriented. I would prefer a milling machine with a DRO). But fascinating.

Working out (designing) a 8 bar linkage would be way beyond me, but making it is not too difficult. Otherwise for simpler machines you can look at pinterest for ideas, and then work out your own.

If you can get a pendulum clock kit (Kit important. Don't try making gears initially), make one, and then see what you can make yourself. Adding refinements like say cycloidal cheeks etc.

Just spitballing ideas.

Sutripta

[Thad E Ginathom]

I haven't looked at much of Ms Emma's channel, but I think she has several engines that she has made, along with all sorts of other stuff. Chanced on and watched a short series in which she makes a small engine without using any machine tools at all except a drill press. It's interesting that she doesn't work from a plan, but makes it up as she goes!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFJh..._dE9X6CbujGWbO

She's Australian (I think?) and is talking metric too

[Thad E Ginathom]

I came across this today, on a new-to-me channel that might interest you too. Machining oversize parts?...

Borderline Machining on the Mikron WF-1: Pumping Iron:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFIHVHlf53E

[Jeroen]

Thanks for the suggestions and the video’s. This borderline is pretty insane!

I have more or less decided to go ahead with the little two stroke engine. I am working on making a material list (what stock I need to get) and I have raised a few questions to Jan. In particular about how the ignition works. (which is not shown in the plans at all.

I noticed that my favourite tool shop HBM has, after almost four months of closure, has opened their showroom once again. Going by their website a lot of stuff is still out of stock though. Just about anything they sell, irrespective of brand, is being manufactured in China, so they have had some serious supply issues over the last months, obviously.

Based on my experiences with the Wobbler I want to get a few more measuring instruments. This is the current main stay of my measuring tools:



The micrometer I bought recently, including a larger model as well. The steel ruler and caliber are amongst some of my oldest tools. When I went to naval college (1977) you had to(mandatory) purchase certain items. Obviously, books, a uniform (we had to wear uniforms when attending class), a proper scientific calculators (TI30 or better). But also a ruler and caliper. There might have been one or two other items, but I can’t remember.

The very first day of practice we had to bring the ruler and caliber and they got inspected whether they were good enough. First thing we were told/shown how to engrave your name in them.

So I have had them for a very long time and for that reason alone, I will keep them. And they are fine too. Working on the lathe and the mini mill I have noticed a few things though. The ruler is often too long. I think BlondiHacks pointed that out in one of her video’s too. It is handy to have a smaller ruler, maybe 15cm or thereabout.

Whereas my caliper works fine (I compare against the micrometer reading), I was wondering of getting one with a analogue or digital read out. With the caliper set properly on an item in the lathe of mini mill, it is sometimes difficult to read the measurement accurately. I need to get my neck/head into impossible position and even with glasses, my eyes are not what they used to be.

Any thoughts on analoge versus digital read out for a caliper? I assume the digital is the easiest when it comes to reading. Because it just shows you the total number. Whereas with a an analogue (clock) you tend to have to combine the scale on the caliper itself with the reading of the clock. At least I have seen a few that operate like that.

Jeroen

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

The micrometer I bought recently, including a larger model as well.

Should have come with a setting bar. Keep, and use it carefully.

Whereas my caliper works fine (I compare against the micrometer reading),

And you can use the setting bar for the caliper also.

Any thoughts on analoge versus digital read out for a caliper? I assume the digital is the easiest when it comes to reading.

Get the digital. Most important advantage is the ability to set zero. Like taring a weight. Incredible timesaver/ errorsaver.
Don't let the battery leak.
And most important avoid the cheap stuff like crazy. They don't hold calibration over whole length. Nothing worse than a measuring instrument which gives wrong readings.
In fact for measuring tools which you are actually going to use, get the best that you can afford.

Sutripta

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Thanks for the suggestions and the video’s. This borderline is pretty insane!

I think the word might be German sense of humour? It is plainly absolutely crazy, and most amateurs trying something like that would end up with broken machines and broken bones. Or worse. Like his fellow German, Stefan Gotteswinter, though, he seems to be a trained professional.

Brian Block, another pro who likes to take the job home, does stuff on some big machines.