[hserus]

Originally Posted by sugathan

To avoid the trouble of cleaning the oil tray/pan, its simple if you can use a fairly thicker gauge garbage bag and cover the tray/pan. After draining, you could, simply pack back the used oil and return the bag for disposal.

This actually works well if your garbage bag doesn't have any leaks or small rips along the lining. Can't always trust that will be the case.

Also, may I suggest that you securely throw away the used parts and oil. If handed over to any garage the chances are high that they will simply filter the used oil, run a compressed air blower over the used parts or maybe clean them in diesel and palm them off on an unsuspecting customer.

[vasist]

Fantastic write up Gannu_1 .. The car still looks mint fresh, man I wish I got so much of TLC

NOTE FROM T-BHP SUPPORT: Only TWO emojis allowed per post. Please read the Announcements carefully before proceeding. Thanks.

[sushil_n79]

HI

Good Day

This is indeed an awesome work which speaks about your volumes of passion and dedication twoards your polo. This is an inspiration for all the newbies who want to go the DIY way. All the best for the future rides.

Take care and Keep revving.

Regards
Sushil Narayanan

[unni246]

Originally Posted by Gannu_1

Some updates:

1. I did the 105,000 km service last weekend at home and it was a great experience!

As always terrific and insane DIY post Gannu! Hats off

I couldn't help but notice that your beast now wears a Kerala badge, wasn't it having a GJ#.
Did you and your ride relocate to Palakkad now?

[McLaren Rulez]

Gannu, any sources for these parts? Would love to change the oil, filters, etc. at home after the warranty expires but the biggest obstacle (apart from my laziness) is that VW doesn't sell parts.

[Gannu_1]

Originally Posted by kpzen

Gannu

I would suggest you to drain in warm condition next time.

Will do it in the warm condition next time. Thing is, there are folks who vouch for both the methods. Thanks for the feedback KP.

Originally Posted by sugathan

To avoid the trouble of cleaning the oil tray/pan, its simple if you can use a fairly thicker gauge garbage bag and cover the tray/pan. After draining, you could, simply pack back the used oil and return the bag for disposal.

We are trying to avoid plastic bags as much as possible including those black low micron garbage bags at home. I was worried while cleaning the tray and the measuring jar - the oily deposits mixed with the washing soap lather was being washed away in the open. In a garage, they don't have to worry about it at all.

I have to think of an alternative to clean the tray in a more environment-friendly way.

Originally Posted by avinash_clt

It is a bit difficult to source, but Motul 8100 'X-Clean' 5W40 would have been the more appropriate choice (VW 505 01 spec oil).

Searched a lot for the X-Clean Avi including calls to official distributors - they don't have stocks so settled for this. Liqui Moly was also considered but I've heard good things about the Motul oil from various sources.

Originally Posted by McLaren Rulez

Gannu, any sources for these parts?

I got them through a friend whose friend was in VW but resigned recently so I'm going to check with dealers in Opera House, Mumbai. They sell OEM parts over the counter. Will share the feedback once I make a purchase.

[hserus]

Originally Posted by Gannu_1

Searched a lot for the X-Clean Avi including calls to official distributors - they don't have stocks so settled for this. Liqui Moly was also considered but I've heard good things about the Motul oil from various sources.

Amazon is selling it at a disgusting price - 24k ++ - appears to be imported and sold after duty is applied.

http://www.amazon.in/Motul-X-Clean-5...=motul+x-clean

[shibujp]

Originally Posted by Gannu_1

Some updates:

1. I did the 105,000 km service last weekend at home and it was a great experience. It’s a fairly easy job if one can source all the parts and tools and most importantly, has the time, patience and inclination to do it at home! I've penned down the steps briefly along with the tools, parts and consumables used.

Well so it happened. I guess a lot of us were wondering when it would.

I had a concern regarding the jack stand placement. The way you have placed it now you risk denting the floor. The neoprene buffer protects this to some extent but I think you should use either the jack points or the point where the sub frame attaches to the body for the jack stand.

Also an oil drain pan is pretty useful. I started with the tray and cup but then this is so convenient to use.


Drive on,
Shibu.

[kpzen]

Originally Posted by Gannu_1

Will do it in the warm condition next time. Thing is, there are folks who vouch for both the methods. Thanks for the feedback KP.

Hi Gannu,
Sharing FYI only.

After your response, I went through the Scross manual and found this.
For Polo I couldn't find the manual online.

[halfbytecode]

Originally Posted by Gannu_1

...

3. Retorquing the wheel bolts:

Since I got the torque wrench, I decided to retorque all the wheel bolts to the manufacturer recommended torque of 120 Nm. The bolts were previously tightened at the tire shop while doing the wheel balancing and alignment, and it was obviously overtightened. I had to stand atop the wheel wrenches to loosen them.

Attached a 5” extension bar and the 17 mm socket to the torque wrench, and tightened all the wheel bolts.

...

Must admit though, I was a bit paranoid after this and was checking if the bolts were in place when I took breaks during the return drive to Chennai.
...

I should mention that you should be doing the wheel bolts in a "star" pattern, which includes screwing them on, and then torquing them down. An easy way to remember for 5 bolt wheels at least, is to do the bolts while skipping every alternate bolt until all are done, rather than doing them all in a continuous sequence.

[hserus]

Originally Posted by kpzen

Hi Gannu,
Sharing FYI only.

After your response, I went through the Scross manual and found this.
For Polo I couldn't find the manual online.

That is true for any engine.

Engine oil is designed to be more free flowing and less viscous as the engine warms up. So it actually flows out rather than just oozes out when you drain it, and more of the old oil drains out that way.

If this is done at the engine's full operating temperature and when the engine has run for a while, it will of course be hot. From a cold start, running the engine for a minute or so to warm up the oil so it flows, and then shutting down should be enough. Or of course, letting the engine cool to the extent you can touch the drain plug after you have driven the car.

[kpzen]

Originally Posted by hserus

That is true for any engine.

Engine oil is designed to be more free flowing and less viscous as the engine warms up. So it actually flows out rather than just oozes out when you drain it, and more of the old oil drains out that way.

If this is done at the engine's full operating temperature and when the engine has run for a while, it will of course be hot. From a cold start, running the engine for a minute or so to warm up the oil so it flows, and then shutting down should be enough. Or of course, letting the engine cool to the extent you can touch the drain plug after you have driven the car.

Sir,
Agree and already posted the same in Post #13.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by Gannu_1

3. Retorquing the wheel bolts:

Since I got the torque wrench, I decided to retorque all the wheel bolts to the manufacturer recommended torque of 120 Nm. The bolts were previously tightened at the tire shop while doing the wheel balancing and alignment, and it was obviously overtightened. I had to stand atop the wheel wrenches to loosen them.

Attached a 5” extension bar and the 17 mm socket to the torque wrench, and tightened all the wheel bolts.


Must admit though, I was a bit paranoid after this and was checking if the bolts were in place when I took breaks during the return drive to Chennai.

I just stand on the wheel wrench. I have never removed a wheel without having to stand on the wrench, although I admit that I don't have muscle. Removing the wheel from my previous polo without pneumatic was impossible. even the two-wheeler puncture man across the road could not do it. He inflated my flat tire so I could reach the tire shop. Actually this is dangerous: we need to be able to deal with a puncture whereever and whenever it happens. Maybe I should carry three feet of steel pipe in the car!

But anyway, I torque wheel nuts to foot pounds. My foot pounds!

[CrAzY dRiVeR]

Originally Posted by Gannu_1

[*]Reset the service interval in the MID of the instrument cluster.

Can you please provide the steps for this?

My cousin's car was serviced at a neighbourhood shop and it seems they are clueless how to reset the reminder.

[Gannu_1]

Originally Posted by CrAzY dRiVeR

Can you please provide the steps for this?

My cousin's car was serviced at a neighbourhood shop and it seems they are clueless how to reset the reminder.

Refer this clip CD (FF to 1:04 to skip the unwanted bits):

https://youtu.be/mezjFvVWEas?t=64