Team-BHP - DIY: S-Cross Headlight Upgrade to Morimoto Mini D2S Stage III Bi-Xenons

With reference to the wiring diagram,

Since your S-Cross came wih Bi-Xenons, the pink wire could be -ve pole of the solenoid.
The High Beam terminal which you have marked will go to +ve of solenoid.

The BCM is coded to give Low beam signal whenever Headlight is ON and only Solenoid gets activated in High Beam.

I got to know this in Maruti service manual while I was upgrading my Baleno Zeta HLs to Alpha projectors.

PS : If it was a 35W Morimoto setup, you could have directly connected without H4 to Bi-Xenon relay and you could have put the Ballasts inside(If space is there)

PPS : Is the H4 to Bi-xenon harness available separately ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by kashyapz8055 (Post 4282473)

With reference to the wiring diagram,

Since your S-Cross came wih Bi-Xenons, the pink wire could be -ve pole of the solenoid.
The High Beam terminal which you have marked will go to +ve of solenoid.

....

PS : If it was a 35W Morimoto setup, you could have directly connected without H4 to Bi-Xenon relay and you could have put the Ballasts inside(If space is there)

PPS : Is the H4 to Bi-xenon harness available separately ?

Yup, that's just the ground pair wire of the high beam operation, I noticed that I uploaded an earlier image than the most recent one. Either ways we don't need a signal from that wire since the motocontrol handles it for the D2S.

You are absolutely correct that the 35W setup would work absolutely fine with the existing wiring. The only reason to use the motocontrol is to be on safer side and make the wiring much easier. There is no space inside the headlight for the ballast though and keep in mind, it gets really hot. Ballasts should be mounted where there is some air flow to dissipate heat.

Technically speaking, all the cars come with wiring which support 55/60 setup and therefore the stock wiring will support a 55W HID. There are many installs which are done this way, but the catch is - during startup it consumes more amps than the regular halogens. There are many installers who claim that halogens consume more power at startup than the HIDs. I'm not an expert in lighting, so I can't argue or comment about it, but I know that the higher AMP rating required during startup is the only reason I chose to go with MotoControl with power coming directly from battery. That way the stock wiring is supplying 1 Amp or less as signal.

Wow! Simply Wow!! No one would believe this a something pulled off by a "Beginner" level DIY-er. I can confidently say, you have graduated directly from a Beginner to Pro with this single DIY effort. If this is not "Pro" what is?? Hats Off to you mate :thumbs up

And, what a detailed thread. I can confidently say that one can venture into a similar DIY activity by using this as the bible. You have covered all areas with the minutest of details - can't get better than this. Seriously 5* stuff and rated the same!

This is probably the parachute I and many others were waiting for and it won't be too long before a lot of us jump into this upgrade. I am sure you, my friend, will help us with your expert guidance :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandygordon (Post 4283071)

For non-technical non DIY people like us do you know any reliable after market solution for the fogs. I would be happy if i just upgrade the fogs.

You can swap the OE fog light to a bi xenon HID projector. Like couple of them who have done on their S-Cross. I had it in my Swift too.

Here's the link for the items:

SINOLYN Car Motorcycle HID Bi xenon Fog Lights Projector Lens 3.0'' Bifocal Driving Lamps Waterproof Retrofit DIY High/Low Kit

https://m.aliexpress.com/s/item/3274...ddresstype=600

Get this projectors without bulbs and below link for ballast (35W) and bulbs (H11 & 4300K)

35W xenon H11 HID for car Headlight bulbs H1 H3 H7 H8 H9 H10 H11 9006 HB4 880 881 H27 4300K 5000K 6000K 8000k H7 HID xenon kit

https://m.aliexpress.com/s/item/3277...e=600#autostay

Total investment will be ₹ 6,400 (₹4,900 for projectors + ₹1,400 for ballast and bulbs).

Hi Sudeep,

A lovely and detailed DIY. The ouput is superb. How much time was the vehicle out of action?

Also, having taken so much pain, why did you use zip ties to secure the black boxes? It could have been mounted inside somewhere. I found Zipties used for securing things in place as a quick fix solution, but long term rattling issues creep [over 20K kms] to be fair!

Having said that, I have been toying with this DIY idea for a long time[ ever since I got my Hyundai Verna 1.6S (O) AT ] and somehow did not step into it.

Looks like i may change the car instead :)

A BIG CONGRATS to you and your team!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vigkey (Post 4283020)

I am sure you, my friend, will help us with your expert guidance :D

Thanks VigKey. I will be certainly glad to provide my insights and assistance. The whole idea of documenting it here is to ensure anyone who wants to go this route has the full set of details to execute it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbp (Post 4283052)

Are the bulbs really 4500 kelvin? With 50 watts ballast there will be a color shift to a more warmer color, hence people go for 5500 Kelvin bulbs with 50 watts ballast. Just curious as the light looks white.

Yes, they are. A few have asked me this, but these photographs are from my Lenovo K8 Note in the best possible setting. I unfortunately do not have a professional camera. Therefore, obviously, the photos are overexposed. The light output is definitely 4500K and a lot more closer to halogen type. I have asked a few friends to help out with a better professional camera to capture the realistic output. In the first video which jaunthead shared, you can see the output which is more realistic. That was from his Viofo A119 dashcam with a CPL filter.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandygordon (Post 4283071)

For non-technical non DIY people like us do you know any reliable after market solution for the fogs. I would be happy if i just upgrade the fogs.

a4anurag has shared a perfect reply that I agree with 100%

Quote:

Originally Posted by headers (Post 4283120)

Also, having taken so much pain, why did you use zip ties to secure the black boxes? It could have been mounted inside somewhere.
How much time was the vehicle out of action?

My car was down for 15 days almost since we ran into the surprise I mentioned. For Jaunthead's car, it took us about 2 days (starting very early as 7 AM and working a bit late - We were too excited! :) ) since we had everything in place to execute the project. Here's a distribution of time spent (roughly)

Wiring (includes opening of bumper etc) - 3 hours
Opening headlights - 1-2 hours per headlight. In all 4-5 hours.
Mounting the projectors and installing them back - 2-3 hours.
Securing internal wiring inside headlights - 45 minutes to 1 hour
Resealing the headlight - 1 to 2.5 hours
alignment of headlights 1 - 2 hours.
miscellaneous stuff - 3 hours
Putting everything back 2 - 3 hours

Obviously, you also end up taking breaks a lot because opening the headlight is a laborious process.

I did secure all of the wires using high quality zip ties in th engine bay. They should easily last for 3-4 years. Everything we have tried to do with this project was to use the best approach and highest quality materials possible and within our means and understanding as well as experience at that time. In retrospect, we definitely think we could do slightly better, especially with the bracket design. The wiring is just perfect and 100% safe in this setup with no load or any side effect on the stock wiring. Also it is 100% reversible.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sudeepg (Post 4279632)

Warning & Disclaimer

DIY expertise level at the time of this DIY: Beginner
I don't mean to brag about this one, but I want to set the context so that all of you readers are aware.

Sir, let me first congratulate you for the wonderful DIY thread and the immaculate execution with results.

God-Almightly, I'm stunned by the level of patience you've possessed and exhibited throughout the DIY process. I'm certain I would have backed-off easily looking at how complex this would have got! Firstly dumb-headed and I don't think I could have planned the layout also :D
Are you a design-engineer by profession? I'm sure if Maruti sees this thread, they might contact you for design suggestions clap:

Anyways, this is by far the best DIY thread on electricals I've read or come across. Everything is planned so meticulously as if there's no mistakes seen anywhere.

I will surely get in touch with you if I would require suggestions on improvising my lighting setup on my Brezza!

Output is just mind-boggling and I don't think any professional for that matter would have pulled it to this level of brilliance. Anyways, congratulations again sir!

Quote:

Originally Posted by gururajrv (Post 4283320)

Are you a design-engineer by profession?

...

I will surely get in touch with you if I would require suggestions on improvising my lighting setup on my Brezza!

Thank you. I work in software. I'll be happy to provide any inputs I can with the knowledge I have gained so far with this project.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lovetorque (Post 4283508)

The ballast power is mentioned as 50W. Is that 55W lamp is powered by modest 50W ballast or is it a 45W bulb in use?

The ballast is actually 50W as per the Morimoto HID site's technical specification section. Link

Either ways, most 55W ballasts are not true 55W as per what me and Jaunthead figured. It's likely the case with 35W ballasts as well.

The bulb wattage as listed on the Morimoto technical specifications is 55W. So yeah, its a 55W bulb running with a 50W ballast.

FYI - RetroRides, Delhi supplies only 50W ballasts and 55W bulbs. I initially wanted to go for 35W setup (ballasts and bulbs). 55W ballasts and bulbs produce a lot more heat than 35W setup. But since they didn't have it I chose to go with what they have so that I can sort out any issues with warranty claims.

I believe this is one of the reasons why you can still run the ballasts on the stock wiring without a MotoControl relay. However, I like to keep any accessories and retrofits as safe, easy and reversible as possible.

The buying experience with RetroRides Delhi has been good so far.

Had seen this thread the day it went live but always wanted to read in detail and boy, that was one brilliant and precisely executed DIY Sudeep! Kudos for all your efforts. The results are just brilliant.

But what takes the cake are the DIY brackets - I don't think it would have been perfected beyond what I just saw. You pulled it so professionally with your mate. The outcome is as good as something that comes straight from the factory. So, the USP of the DIY is the DIY brackets I will say clap:.

Next comes the DIY oven - Last I remember seeing this on Gannu's Polo DIY and now I wonder if this ends up as the universal and simple method to open up the reflectors.

Again, congratulations for successfully completing this modification, something that will be immensely useful for your night drives on all kind of roads.