[ilangop]

Hi all,
Here is 1 more piece of improvisation on my 118 NE, a remote boot release. Necessity is the mother of all inventions. As the responsibility of our work place securities demands it, they need to check vehicles exiting our company. I was always bothered about getting down and opening the trunk lid. So I proceeded towards making one by myself as there is no direct retrofit remote boot lid actuation for 118 NE.

I managed to procure a trunk lid lever set (From Maruti Esteem) and a pair of cables (paid him Rs 80/-) from the scrap market. The second half is to link the cables to the latch. Luckily there was ample space available for fabricating a mechanism. Below are the pictures.

Since I didnt want to experiment on the existing latch I bought a new one (Rs 40/-). Opened it up, made a hole (2mm dia) to accomodate a bicycle spoke (Rs 1/-). As the spoke in peeping out, I had to file some metal to close the latch back.

Fixed the new latch, connected the spoke with the simple lever mechanism, routed the cables, mounted the mechanism near the driver's seat..and it is ready.

Planning to fabricate one for the fuel tank lid also. This actaully reduces 2 keys from the key bunch. Still I have its key in the glove box in case if the cable gets cut.

[condor]

@Ilango, good job ! Pls post better pics of the lever, and the Fuel lid opener set-up once you do it.

ilangop : Still I have its key in the glove box in case if the cable gets cut.

And not to worry, that cable can outlast the car itself. On another note, the TASS here does not have spares of the lever itself, forget the cable.

Guys, if you notice the boot release cable in Pic 2 of Ilango's post : the end is different from the one we have used. (Maruti vs Tata).

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by condor

that cable can outlast the car itself. Guys, if you notice the boot release cable in Pic 2 of Ilango's post : the end is different from the one we have used. (Maruti vs Tata).

Thank you condor. Actually I had personally been to the scrap market and got it removed from an Esteem lying there. No idea how the cable looks like, for other models of Maruti/Tata.

As I would also need to retain the stock looks (from outside) of the fuel tank lid, and also have the possibility to use the key fabricating a mechanism would be more trickier. Also there is not much space available to fix up a device like I had done for the boot. But I am sure I ll get that done in a month's time and post you the pictures.

[condor]

ilangop : .. got it removed from an Esteem lying there. No idea how the cable looks like, for other models of Maruti/Tata.

The cable you have used - has a round /ball shaped end. Compare this with the flat & circular ending of the Tata's cable. Check pics #9 & #10 of the first post of this thread.

ilangop : ... have the possibility to use the key fabricating a mechanism would be more trickier.

Yes, this will be tricky. Would have joined you if we were both in the same place.

A couple of points for the fuel lid set-up : Why not remove the keys completely, and have only a cable release setup ? A mix of two different types will increase the complexity, not to mention the space constraints.

If you have only the cable release mechanism, you can have a back-up cable into the boot, so if the cable from the driver's seat does not work, then you can use this second cable to pull the lever.

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by condor

Would have joined you if we were both in the same place.

Thank you condor, nice to meet such DIY enthusists here at Team-BHP. Well removing the lock & key is completely out of my choices, well having a backup cable inside the boot sounds good. It would rather lie unnoticed.

As it is I plan to use the locking lever at the end of the lock, for lid release. I am not aware how well you have observed the system, there is a small projection from inside where this lever engages itself to close the lid. My idea is to fix a sliding mechanism (as in any other fuel lid opening system) in place of this projection and use this to engage with the lock. In the end I can use the key as well as the cable for opening it. Not sure if I have made my idea reach you.

[IronWolf]

Ben, thanks for starting this thread, Interesting mod and reading.

Condor and iLang thanks for filling in with your experience.

[funkykar]

Way to go!!! Great idea to improvise at a pretty low cost.


I am very impressed with this idea and cant wait to get this done on my 118 NE. Yes, these days, its a pain if you dont have remote boot. Expecially at placed that has security checks. Alomost all movie halls and shopping malls have these checks. Its troublesome to switch off the engine, get down and show them the boot and get back in and continue. This setup ensures that you will not have these hassles

Originally Posted by ilangop

Hi all,
I managed to procure a trunk lid lever set (From Maruti Esteem) and a pair of cables (paid him Rs 80/-) from the scrap market. The second half is to link the cables to the latch. Luckily there was ample space available for fabricating a mechanism. Below are the pictures.

Since I didnt want to experiment on the existing latch I bought a new one (Rs 40/-). Opened it up, made a hole (2mm dia) to accomodate a bicycle spoke (Rs 1/-). As the spoke in peeping out, I had to file some metal to close the latch back.

If I have to buy the necessary accessories from the market, do you have any idea on how much would they cost? If I go and just ask for trunk lid lever set of Esteem and its cable, is that sufficient? What is the latch you are talking about here?

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by funkykar

Way to go!!! Great idea to improvise at a pretty low cost.

If I have to buy the necessary accessories from the market, do you have any idea on how much would they cost? If I go and just ask for trunk lid lever set of Esteem and its cable, is that sufficient? What is the latch you are talking about here?

Hi,
Materials required
1) Trunk lid lever (2 lever type if u want a fuel lid option also) + 2 screws
2) 1 or 2 boot release cables. (I haven't measured how long it is, but the Esteem's cable fits exactly. For fuel lid you might have to make 1 loop to compensate for extra length)
3) 2 bicycle spoke (1 as spare in case it is messed up) (1 Re/- each)
4) The plastic part found in the door opening mechanism. (Please refer to the picture detailing the rear boot release system - the white coloured part)
5) The boot locking system comes as 2 parts rt? one - the lock & key, two - the links & levers which actually close while locking. As the lever & link mechanism needs to be opened and put back after fitting a spoke inside, it is a better idea to have a spare. (Costed me Rs 40/-)
6) 1 - 1.5 mm plate if you would fabricate the part linking the cable and the spoke.
7) 4 screws (To mount the above said plate)

Since I had bought the items from the scrap market I am really unaware of its actual market price for the levers & cables.

-Ilango

[funkykar]

Originally Posted by ilangop

Hi,
Materials required
1) Trunk lid lever (2 lever type if u want a fuel lid option also) + 2 screws
2) 1 or 2 boot release cables. (I haven't measured how long it is, but the Esteem's cable fits exactly. For fuel lid you might have to make 1 loop to compensate for extra length)
3) 2 bicycle spoke (1 as spare in case it is messed up) (1 Re/- each)
4) The plastic part found in the door opening mechanism. (Please refer to the picture detailing the rear boot release system - the white coloured part)
5) The boot locking system comes as 2 parts rt? one - the lock & key, two - the links & levers which actually close while locking. As the lever & link mechanism needs to be opened and put back after fitting a spoke inside, it is a better idea to have a spare. (Costed me Rs 40/-)
6) 1 - 1.5 mm plate if you would fabricate the part linking the cable and the spoke.
7) 4 screws (To mount the above said plate)

Since I had bought the items from the scrap market I am really unaware of its actual market price for the levers & cables.

-Ilango

These items werent available in the market. I will try for them in the scrap market some time coming week.

[funkykar]

Originally Posted by funkykar

These items werent available in the market. I will try for them in the scrap market some time coming week.

Is there a place in Bangalore who can do it for me? I still couldnt find a cable of the Esteem

[ilangop]

Hi all,

Though most of us here are originality freaks, this is for those who are ok with Mag / Alloy wheels in our NEs or Padminis. It all started when I spotted a set 5, 13" alloys for sale in Olx. The price was also pretty affordable and hence took the plunge.The wheels were available in Hyderabad, and hence asked my brother and uncle to co-ordinate with seller for buying and transporting it to Pune. The wheels were used by still in good shape, without any cracks or bends but needed a coat of paint.

I was delighted to collect the pack from my friend who was close by the cargo transport office. As soon as I brought them home the first thing I did was to take out my vernier caliper and measure the hub ID. It was 4 mm more than what was required. Took one of those rims to a nearby lathe-wala and got the hub adaptors done from him. But it required some rework as it was too tight for my 118NE's hubs. So, after a few reworks it finally got in perfectly.
Now the second half of this project was a PCD adaptation. As you might be aware, 118NE comes with a 98mm PCD hub. While the alloys where of 100 / 114.3 type. Yes the answer is to use wobble washers & bolts/nuts to compensate for the 1 mm radial offset. I could have managed to import a set though ebay or similar sites. But they are way too expensive. A fellow team-bhpian shared a drawing of the wobble washer that he had made. Still was not in a mood to go to the Lathe-wala and get the washers done. So the idea is like this. Bought 16 wheel nuts of M-800 which can fit into the M12-1.25 wheel bolt. Next is to widen the dia to 13.5 mm and cut short the length to 8 or 9 mm as much as required.

Fiats are again being notorious for their wierd standards with respect to the wheel PCDs and the wheel bolts. I need longer bolts for the increase in thickness in wheel hub. The wheels bolts (in 118NE & M-800) are of M-12- 1.25 pitch while most of the other cars come with a M-12 - 1.5 pitch. My spareparts shop friend was kind enough to sell me the damper bolts of M-800. They were the ones that I wanted exactly. Swapped the tyres from the old rim to the new one and was done. Retained the 5.6-13" tyres. The rims were of 5.5", still it wasn't a problem. I had replaced the tubes with the ones for 175-70-R13 tyres so that old tubes dont get stretched too much inside the wider rim.

Forgot to mention the spacer that I had to fabricate for the front wheel. I needed a 12 mm spacer to bring back the wheel track. The alloys had more offset that required for my car. To keep the cost low I hunted around for pipe flanges of 98 PCD and 15 mm thickness and machined it down to 12mm. The brake rotors have 2 retaining bolts which have a projection that locates the rims while fitment. We dont need them now as the alloys didnt have them.

These bolts were replaced with countersunk Stainless steel bolts of apt size. All washers are of stainless steel.

Let the pictures speak the rest.
-Ilango

[Auto freak]

Wow! That's a whole lot of effort you've put into those wheels!
Kudos for that!
You seem to have modified almost every little dimension in wheel terminology

But must be feeling overwhelmed with the results!
After all there are very few things that give better joy and satisfaction to an enthusiast than a successful DIY!

Can you please get us some good daylight pictures to drool over the beauty and her new shoes?!

[ilangop]

Here are some more of the WIP pictures.
1. The spigot bush / hub adaptor ring - reduced the hub dia from 62mm to 58.2 mm. Bush is made of a seam-less pipe of suitable dia. Outer dia shall be little more than the Inner dia of the hub in the mag wheel, so that it is tight fit. Fitment can be done with a hammer and a wooded block inbetween so that the edges of the ring doesn't get damages. Else take the stuff to a press shop.



2. The bolts should be 8.8 strength grade. Bolts with a higher number are harder and have a higher tensile strength. But there are chances that a very hard bolt can rip the threads off the hub flange. Hope you can see the wobble washer doing its job. The bolts are little bit closer to the wheel centre rather than the hole centre.

3. The spacer place vaguely visible on the front wheel side.

[ObsessedByFIAT]

Hey Ilango! You got the Alloys powder coated?

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by ObsessedByFIAT

Hey Ilango! You got the Alloys powder coated?

Abhishek,
It originally had Aluminium paint on it, and the one who owned them previously had sparayed it Matt-Black. And I added an additional coat of Matt-Black with the Bosny spray can. Planning to give the car for a complete paint job this summer.
-Ilango