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What is the cheapest weather sealed (body+standard zoom) cost with Canon?

Yeah maven, its common.

Canon 40D metering seems pretty much on the dot compared to some of the older canon bodies I handled in the past (friends) but I could be wrong as this is my first body.

Hehe, I see what you guys did there!!

*pulls up a chair to watch the fun*

The Sigma APO HSM OS lenses are equally comparable to Canon USM IS or Nikon VR SWM glasses and cheaper too.

It's 1700$ currently, but expect it to come down to 1300-1400$ soon.
But weather sealing can't be the only criteria to buy a camera system, right? For me it's availability of the lenses that I can put my hands on. And I've to tell one thing, I got some really mouth watering deals when I bought few of my lenses( talking about the 2nd hand one). For slight drizzles and rains I use a rain cover with my not so weather sealed cameras (350d has no weather sealing and 40D is sealed only for shutter and battery compartment). Cheap and works for me, yeah little awkward it looks but that's ok.:Cheering:

Point of weather sealing is not only for rain but for the fact DUST/MOISTURE etc. Its not uncommon to see people doing rally shots falling in pit of mud and body/lens combo getting a good wash in mud, no rain cover protects you there. This is one of the main reasons Pentax is still in market since almost all of upper pentax segment is Weather Sealed and those DA and Ltd`s just make me go drooling, but i can`t use any on my nikons :Frustrati

Personally i had beer spilled on my D3+70-200mm, i just washed it under tap and its all fine.

There is a huge reason why Sigma is cheaper than almost everyone. Sigma has the worse quality control. GOOGLE can show you the issues with Front/Back focus issues on Sigma lenses. Its more like the luck. You might get a lens without any issues but then again its based on luck. Compared to Canon and Nikon, the only issues i had in my 10+yrs of photography (been doing since i was 13yrs old) was/is Nikon 35mm 1.8Dx, it has front/back focus issues and Nikon 200mm f4 Micro, god awful lens, beautiful reach and macro capability but impossible to use without a tripod and was designed to be used handheld. Finally Canon 50mm f1.8 Mk2, nothing bad as this lens, worst quality ever, but still good enough for regular shoot.

Everyone is going to take me wrong in sense to Canon 50mm f1.8 mk2. So i am going to layout the comparison in terms of quality and quality only. I bet Rs.10L you can run a Safari over Nikon 50mm f1.8/Zeiss f1.4 and these can still be used after a bit of cleaning and removing filter ring. Canon, well just drop it from 5feet and it comes out in 2 parts. Its coming from experience, if required i can put pictures of a D3+50mm after being run over by a 2 tonne vehicle.


I respectfully disagree. All of the lenses manufactured for crop sensors (EFS in canon, DX in Nikon and DC in Sigma) feature USM/SWM/HSM motors (same thing different names) and it is one of the reason why these are cheaper to manufacture. Canon lenses are expensive because of Apeture system is in the lens and it costs quite a bit since its not solely based on electromagnets but is more in the sense of advanced actuators.


True but always start at a P&S level and learn to COMPOSE and then start fiddling with manual controls, once comfortable jump into BRIDGE cameras section and try out OLDER bridge cameras (S9500, S9600) and finally come to DSLR market. That is the best and simplest way. Otherwise its very easy to get demotivated when just starting out with a DSLR and having to do plethora of things and then still finding your image is just not good enough because you didn`t compose properly and now have to CROP in order to salvage it. CROP is not a good thing to get used to, reason being you are wasting pixels each time you crop even slightly.


I respectfully disagree. Walking 15kms at 2am in chilly winter with 55kg of camera equipment on my back to take shot. That is the low resolution version, if needed i can provide full resolution version. Its actually a mix of 16 shots.

Yes Astro photography needs more time and sittings but truthfully no one can say one field of photography is difficult compared to others. I personally do Landscapes, Fashion, Portraits, Product Shoots and each have there own issues and need appropriate equipment.

For example, being in Astrophotography you are stuck in a field if you want clear night shots like "Milky Way","Horse Head Nebula", you need a wide angle lens, something like Sigma 10-20mm, and on the other hand if you want to take images of distant galaxies or planets, you will need 300mm f2.8/f4`s and sometimes even 400mm/500mm primes and then comes stacking, same shot again and again and again. I have seen few amazing images with 6x15minx15min shots. For Portrait, i can get by just 85mm f1.2 and 50mm f1.2 but i need so many lights/strobes and its not fun but the end result is simply amazing. For product shots, err... well just watch Hasselblad videos on YOUTUBE with Bugati Veryon shoot and you will realise the time spent.


And i can show you what a Nikon 200-400mm f4 can do, or for that matter Canon 400mm f2.8 can do.

What`s your point??? I am asking since you cannot compare a camera technique and final image quality just by price and reach.

If you have not grown out of S3Is yet then there is no real reason to buy a new camera unless you specifically want higher pixels. Then source S5is or Sx series from Canon. But ideally you don`t need to get another camera if you havn`t grown out of s3is yet. Hell i still use my Canon A80 from a decade ago.


BEST reply so far!!!!agree:

Read it again and again till it sinks in :thumbs up


Try finding Achiever Strobes, they have the issue of slow recycling but otherwise are fantastic and at 10th of the cost of Canon/Nikon alternatives. I still use mine with my D3. Only real issue with Achievers are slowflash recycling speeds, but if you are not bouncing the light off cealings at full power or manual, then its not a big deal. Also read Strobist Blog and links, it will amaze you how much you can do with cheap strobes and how to efficiently use them, rather than buying expensive Canon/Nikon strobes and paying a hefty premium for parts.


But how do you actually determine that you like photography ??? no point buying a dslr and realising you don`t like it and loose money.

I know how you feel about the drugs, i am myself a camera junkie :D


Because NANO is a people mover while a 2 wheeler is meant for speed (assuming the 60+ category).

I don`t get the point comparing DECENT P&S to BASIC DSLR. Its like comparing best sports car to BASIC formula one car. Its not a direct comparison. Please compare DECENT P&S to DECENT DSLR and basic P&S to BASIC DSLR and you will realise the real difference,


I respectfully disagree. Field of View or FOV or human eye is almost Double than a normal lens or a 50mm lens from pretty much any manufacturer.

Again, I respectfully disagree:-

1. Once, you jump into advanced research and optics, you will realise, HIGHER the PIXEL density, LOWER is the wasted space on the sensor (GOOGLE FOVEON SENSOR), hence HIGHER ability to capture detail.

2. One word, LX3, it has a f2.0 lens while i don`t beleive any of the kit lenses are above f3.5, please correct me if i am wrong. Only cheap faster lens that an average person can get is 50mm f1.8`s. Otherwise there are Zeiss and LEica lenses available that go upto f0.9 but they are hardly affordable for an averagre person. To be precise even with a huge budget you cannot afford more than f2.8 lenses for DSLR`s, biggest reason being these are not manufactured, bar Canon 200mm f1.8

Now why ars DSLR`s better than P&S:-

1. Well first of all CONTROLS, all of the DSLR`s (Except Leica S2) have more controls directly with dedicated buttons, and all have them through menus while those controls are almost missing in P&S.
2. ISO, DSLR`s can produce pictures usable at ISO`s that NO P&S can achieve.
3. Burst rate, all DSLR have higher burst rate (FPS) than P&S`s (Except Casio Ex-f1)
4. Battery, DSLR`s have higher battery capacity and last way longer than any P&S
5. Lenses, this is the biggest benefit of a DSLR, you can change a lensaccording to your need. NO P&S CAN BE USED TO ACHIEVE THE RESULTS OF TILT-SHIFT OR PERSPECTIVE-CONTROL LENSES.


Correct, but HDR can resolve that. And also Dynamic range is not an issue anymore, just try Fuji S5 and you know what i mean :D



Sorry guys, if i was rude anywhere, since everyone is putting so much info here for benefit of other, its only fair, i share my knowledge and experience to help others :)

Well, Olympus does have some of the finest lenses. Checkout dpreview review of two of my lenses:

Olympus Zuiko Digital 50mm F2.0 Macro Lens Review: 4. Conclusion & samples: Digital Photography Review
Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 12-60mm 1:2.8-4.0 SWD Lens Review: 4. Conclusion & samples: Digital Photography Review

My lenses weren't cheap, but I already own it. So, why change?


Why compromise? I never worry of dust, water, humidity, moisture, fungus, etc. Never needed to clean the sensor either.

With the 1000d you get the non IS lens, no?

And I too feel the Sigma 70-300, is slow and noisy, and the images lack sharpness.
The canon 55-250is or nikon 55-200vr are better options.

I dont believe that one can compare F2.0 of a P&S lens even for a high end one like the LX3 with that of a SLR lens.



But you cant keep bracketing shots to take a final HDR image where only 1 image is possible. I have used the S5 for a month and yes the S5 was better than the equivalent d200 and the Canons of its time, but still was not as good as film for dynamic range. I have not used any camera later than the D200 so cant comment if the newer sensors are any better in this regard.

Is that a proper comparison? A budget lens worth 80$ with a 125$ and 550$ lens? Note: all these costs are my guesstimate and I don't think I'm way off the mark.
It’s pure regular plastic construction to offer a that kind of price and not a lens to use on battlefields.
Not a good experience must say. Thank god for having an expensive magnesium alloy body. :)
Not very clear here. Are you talking about previous Canon FD lens?
The human field of view is about 180 degrees by 120 degrees plus minus. And I suppose when we're talking about normal lens here, it’s for full frame as 24/36.
A normal lens produces a field of view that is similar to human vision. The diagonal of the image plane is typically used as the reference for field of view determination. A normal lens has a focal length that is approximately equal to the diagonal measurement of the image plane. When the focal length is equal to the diagonal measurement it produces a diagonal field of view of approximately 53degree which is similar to human vision.

For 35mm film (24/36) the diagonal measurement is 43.27mm (roughly). 50mm is close to this measurement so it is considered a normal lens.
A 50mm lens produces a 47degree diagonal field of view that is close to 53 degree.

Though human field of view is about 180 degree by 120 degree, we cannot cover that area in one go. It’s our brain that computes and gives us an apparent vision. A very simple test can be done by covering or closing one eye. Another reason for not to cover 180 degree is human’s nose bridge.

SLR lenses can be had from as little as 100$ to 10000$ plus.
So while the LX3 may not compare well to the 10000$ lens, it can nicely compete with budget SLR lenses.

Yes probably you can at base ISOs and good light but anything beyond ideal conditions, cant compare even to a base DSLR.

I have the Nikon 50 1.8 and the 1.4, though a 1.4 is better in build to the 1.8, neither is good enough to survive an Alto runover forget a Safari. The Zeiss I have no idea about.

You guys are too much, who will let a car run over lenses! I get peeved even with minor scratch's on the hood!

But one thing i have learned with photography is, money talks! atleast in the equipment side. The difference very evident once you view the shots on a big apple screen :D

Just a re-assessment and I realized that both 500D and D90 i was targeting are too far from my budget for at-least 2 years.

Not sure what to do, should I stay with my P&S or look out for some ultra budget DSLR.

How is Canon 1000D, it will cost me around 28K with 18-55mm IS Lens. Should I look for such options or wait to buy a better body.

This will be my first DSLR

Actually Sigma 70-300mm is better than both Canon 55-250is and Nikon 55-200mm VR. Altough all three are decent and respectable lenses.


Well we are comparing Lens Apeture and since its a FIXED size, it doesn`t change with lens type or reach.


Actually you can do a HDR with a single image. Just goto Photoshop and save the original file with +1ev and -1ev and then import all three images into your choice of HDR software and go nuts with it.

Also i believe K7 can do in camera HDR so easier for someone just starting.

I have used D3/D3x/D700/D300 and dynamic range has improved vastly. You can check out sensor DxOMark Score can be checked here


Yes, except Zeiss, honestly I should have left Zeiss out since its way expensive.

At current price for Canon 50mm f1.8 Mk2 is $180AUD and for Nikon 50mm f1.8 is $138AUD. So they fall in same bracket.


But we all do drop lenses by mistake and if you use something like a 50mm on d3/d3x it takes quite a beating.


Well, lets say, its kinda thing that makes grown men cry. Magnesium alloy gave in 10th of a second, all the buttons on D3were jammed, mirror broken, top and back lcd`s gone, body bent from front so both dials stuck. Insurance did cover it. I still have the D3 and plan to either sell it for parts when i come to india or simply put it in liquid resin and preserve it.


I am talking about current EF mount. On EF mount there is no mechanical contact between DSLR body and lens and everthing happens electronically. Istead or traditional levers, Canon used EMD`s (Electromagnetic Diaphragm) which is also known as Electronic IRIS. Pretty much every other DSLR/SLR/TLR system utilises mechanical actuator in the body and control lens apeture via a lever coming from the lens.

Its not an expensive system but in the end every single Rupree makes a big different when manufacturers are selling millions of lenses. And cost is reduced for DSLR body since less parts are used and body is not few mm compact but that means all lenses are atleast 3-4mm longer and cost more.

Here`s an example or EMD from 50mm f1.8 Mk2.


Here`s the EMD installed on the controller from 50mm f1.8 Mk2. You can also see focussing motor and counter setup. Also focus switch is visibleon the side.


Here`s a controller make by Letus. Letus manufacturers 35mm DOF adapters for use on camcorders/handycams, there adapters use regular 35mm lenses. Since some people like to use lenses like canon 85mm f1.2 L, they need external setup to control apeture. This controller lets you choose the apeture required manually.


"The approximate field of view of a human eye is 95° Out, 75° Down, 60° In, 60° Up. About 12-15° temporal and 1.5° below the horizontal is the optic nerve or blind spot which is roughly 7.5° in height and 5.5° in width."

Sorry i cheated, its from Wikipedia.

Are you calculating in Stereoscopic FOV??

But 50mm is considered a normal lens for Full frame and 35mm for 1.5crop.


We are not comparing the system or sensor. We are comparing the APETURE.

Nothing else effects APETURE in a lens that itself. Please read above to see what an APETURE looks like. APETURE is a PHYSICAL thing-maximum SIZE of the hole in the lens to let the light pass through which doesn`t gets affected by anything else.:Frustrati

ISO is the sensitivity of the FILM/SENSOR :Frustrati

Seriously is it that hard of a topic to understand APETURE and F-no. ??


Actually Nikon 50mm f1.8 is better built since majority of it is cross-sectioned ABS plastic and whole designed is based on older lenses with focusing done via rotating the lens pancake assembly in a barrel and all of the elements are sealed inside a pancake system including APETURE. Since this system allows more surface area to spread the force/weight, its more likely to survive a hit compares to AFS/EFS/HSM lenses where focusing elements are pretty much floating. Specially the new lenses with floating VR/IS/OS elements.

My Nikon 50mm f1.8 Survived 2Tonne vehicle runover, actually vehicle stopped on d3+50mm for around 2-3 minutes, till we were able to push and roll it over. 50mm still works and is still my favourite lens which D3 is......errrr......DEAD.

Zeis and Leica lenses can actually take quite a bit of beating.


Lol, i didn`t wanted to let the car run over it, it was an accident but an accidental dicovery which sparked quite a big debate over lens manufacturing and quality controls at different manufacturers.

Money is nothing, Photography is my hobby and i have spent pretty much whatever was required on it. I am never going to look back at the money i spent otherwise i would start crying.

To be honest if i am taking landscape shots, i can get same image from Nikon 70-300mm G f4-5.6 and from Nikon 300mm f2.8 VR. One cost me $105 second hand while other cost me $9700 brand new. But when it comes to day shots at MCG (Melbourne Cricket Ground), its a different matter, 70-300mm will still be confiring focus while with 300mm f2.8, i would have taken 7-10 shots.

Here`s are the image of Nikon 50mm f1.8 after being run over by 2 tonne vehicle and getting repaired.

Internal Pancake assembly with all the elements and Apeture sealed off from dust and moisture. Only entry here is a slight cavity where internal level for APETURE control goes in. Its not visible in any of the images i have linked.


Slight difference in the back of the lens, Ideally it should be right in the center but its around 0.4mm off the centre but still within limits. There is no Front/Back Focus issues with the lens, its performing perfectly fine.


Front filter ring completley removed after being damaged and hindering in the smooth focusing. I only had a plier handy, so i just bent it off. Later i took a Xacto knife and tried to cut it off smoothly. I am still trying to get some time to file it down and refill it with black rubber cement to make it one off lens.


Whole lens disassembled and being cleaned, here you can see the screw based design i was talking about above.


Close up of the front while being cleaned. You can see the dust collected in the front.


I will upload D3`s images later on.

Only issue left now is that i cannot use this adapter. It took me a fair while to get this lens element. Its sole job is to provide macro capability to the lens. Here it is mounted in special spacer. Basically a 4mm spacer that screws onto 52mm thread and then has a 52mm thread to mount 52mm filters in front. Space was originally developed as a part for custom extension tubes with controllable extension but that`s another story. I used bluetack to secure the element inside the spacer which was later replaced with optical cement after final tests. Now its just a piece of glass left with me and i cannot use it till i buy another 50mm f1.8


Sorry if i was rude to anyone here, please take it as me being ignorant in my youth.

Thanks