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Hitanshu bhai, I understand what you mean, honestly it all might look too much effort for the toy, but I am liking it.

Also with the little money I have, I am trying to get the best, without really screwing up anything. See either I should just wait to have enough money to buy the best or just invest little more time, to get something

Wow you are a patient man.

The 17-40 is a good lens and almost perfect (the 16-35 would be more perfect :D ) if you ever plan to switch to FF. If you dont plan to switch to FF why get a FF lens. Now why would want to switch to FF?

3 reasons to consider FF (there maybe more).
1. Print larger prints than A3 at very high dpi.
2. Take a lot of wide angle (14-18mm) photos
3. Pixelpeeping

FF is just a derivative of a standard that was created by accident some guy who took 70mm film from Eastman and split it in two. I am sure google will give you all the details.

The 17-40 is heavier, is better built (metal mount etc..), sharper (with better contrast) and faster AF (USM) than the 18-55IS. But it cannot to stopped down (no IS) and I dont know if its really worth 3-4-5 times as much?

RK, I use a 40D (with a variety of lenses) and shoot in jpg mode (no I never need to use RAW). We stick the CF card in to a PS3 and watch the photos on an LCD TV. We have had no issues with image quality.

I did it on my PS A540. Didnt had any problem. I my case if i lock the memory card then chdk gets activated , when i unlock it , it comes back to normal UI. Actually is not a upgrade, it is a memory resident program. it loads every time you on the camera.

Interface is ok, you get lots of over-ride. Bit tricky to configure.
I used it for long duration of shutter opening.

Biggest benefit of Sensor size increase is shallower DOF. It lets your achieve that blur which is simply not available at smaller sensor sizes. Remember the whole discussion over RED/F23/Dof adapters.

That is one of the many reasons why people are crazy about MF and 120mm film is still in high demand. I myself plan to get a MF kit by the end of the year.

I used it with my ixus 80is and it was good. I havn`t used it since i broke my it.

Like V&V said, it resides on memory card and gets activated when you lock the memory card. It lets you create infinite amount of functions, but could be tricky.

So the trigger was that my wife said, the walls in the house are all plain & blank why dont i get some of the photos that i have taken printed from somewhere and get the photos framed. They can then go on the walls to break the monotony
(Ofcourse she hasnt seen the kind of superior material that gets uploaded here. So her baseline & point of reference is really low coz she's only looked at the photos that i have taken from my camera :uncontrol).

Now Navin's post:
"Now why would want to switch to FF?
...
1. Print larger prints than A3 at very high dpi."

makes me think that since mine isnt a full frame the printed photos will look dull and yuck?

Best bet will be open Canvas or framed images, my preference goes to open canvas with sides overlaped as it given a bit of 3d/coming out of wall look. But it depends a lot on the rooms too.

Also around 4mp is more than enough for a a3 print. FF doesn`t dictate the size of the image :Frustrati. No. of pixels dictate the size of image. Also i don`t really think anything needs more than 15mp.

An image taken by D90 and D700 comes to same size. Biggest difference lies in DOF.

Cheers

thanks for response v&v. it is the configure part that i am worried. does it require fiddling with the code or you just copy on to the memory card and load on to the camera. i read somewhere online that it is kind of firmware upgrade: similar to mobile os upgrade. 'm not sure :(
can you please guide or if you have any linkys to the websites that would be helpful.
i intend to use it to capture RAW pics.

if you make a wall size print, nobody is going to go too close to it to see it, you have to be a few feet away to see the photo. you really don't need a very high resolution in that case. go very close to any movie poster and you will see it's quite soft.

Just for fun i split an image of ours to 64 pieces and printed on A4 papers (because I liked it in B/W) and pasted on my walls. here's how it looks.

Anybody is using Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S VR DX NIKKOR ??

Please help me understand this statement from dpreview

"The filter thread is 52mm, and rotates on focusing. This can be a nuisance for photographers who like to use filters such as polarisers and neutral density gradients."

Nikon DX 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 VR Lens Review: 2. Design and Operation: Digital Photography Review

Does that mean, we can not use filters with this lens?

Though Nikon site have filters for this lens : AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR from Nikon

A polariser filter needs to be rotated to get the effect. If the focus ring rotates after the polariser has been set, the setting gets disturbed, and you have to re-adjust which is cumbersome.

There are different kinds of Photographic Filters.

Polariser filters are used to reduce reflections and darken the images to give some contrast. Pretty much any shot where there is water or cars need a polariser.

Now polariser filter is pretty simple to use. Its split into 2 rings, rear ring mount it to the lens while front ring houses the polariser and it can be rotated.

Since polariser affect focusing and metering in DSLR`s, you need to follow following path for using a polariser.

1. Compose
2. Adjust polariser
3. AF + AE
4. Shoot.

If your lens rotates front element while focusing, you will need to re-adjust polariser. So in order to use a polariser following will need to happen.

1. Compose
2. Adjust polariser
3. AF + AE
4. Adjust Polariser
5. Follow steps 2-4, till you get right AF & AE
6. Shoot

This can get annoying and tedious very quickly.

Now ND filters are quite a different breed and i love mine more than the DSLR itself. ND filters let you achieve that sometimes cannot even be done in Post Processing.

ND filters basically stop incoming light. Now what`s the point stopping all the light into the lens? Specially considering we sell an arm and a leg to afford primes with f0.95/f1.0/f1.2/f1.4

Well here`s the wrong thinking and unless we get our head around it, use of ND filter is not possible. We do not pay for f0.95/f1.0/f1.2/f1.4 lenses for huge amount of light coming in. Infact after f2.8 it really doesn`t matter that much. We pay for crazy slim DOF we get with such huge apertures.

But shooting in bright sunlight, well anything above f2.8 can blow highlights pretty quickly, even at shutter speeds of 1/8000. Now move the same day to a snowy mountain and issue becomes apparent, too much light everywhere. Well at f5.6 shutter speed if 1/8000. Shooting is almost impossible, here comes an ND filter to rescue. An ND8 filter will only allow 12% (actually a tiny bit over 12%) light, So shutter speed goes slower and we can use large apertures for crazy slim DOF.

Also ND filters are used to create a natural blur or longer shutter times during day for that amazing moving clouds effect.

Now there is another territory, HALF ND filters and HALF filters, mostly available with the likes of Cokin and Lee. Now AFAIK Cokin does have a P series adapter set which rotates opposite to lens`s front barrel on focusing, basically correcting the affect front barrel has while focusing.

I hope what i typed made sense, i am half sleep and in a hurry. If i am wrong anywhere please correct me. I will post some examples of ND8/ND10 filters use during day time.

Cheers

Then there are Graduated Neutral Density Filters too, used especially for landscapes when the sky is too bright.

Thanks Simran

Wow it_inspector, I am learning at the level best.

From your explanation, its definitely a cumbersome process. I am not sure why Nikon sells it as kit lens. Should I opt for some other lens or its something I will not be using very frequently.

Also Does UV filter also need to be adjusted after AF? Because as I read, people use UV filter ON the lens all the time, to protect it from dust

And that also means that we can not use Lens Hood with this one, right?

Learning is very important part of photography.

UV filters are basically glass/plastic pieces and are just screw on and off. Nothing else.

Back in the film days film was/is sensittive to UV while sensors are very sensitive to UV light, there is already a filter added inside the DSLR body which protects the sensor from UV and IR spectrum. So there is no point of UV in front of lens too.

Real reason why pretty much everyone uses UV filters is like a safety feature. You dropped the $2500 lens and front glass shatter, well its gone. If there`s a $120 filter on front, you just lost the filter and were able to get away with few scratches but the lens is still usable.

Cheers

That also reminds me that the while testing cams and lenses, found that Focus ring of both canon and nikon 18-55 rotates on AF, which means one has to be careful not touching or holding at Focus ring during AF.

BTW I check Nikor 18-200mmAF-S, and does not have any of the problems listed above. Focus ring does not rotates during AF