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Originally Posted by motomaverick
(Post 2736014)
Thats basically fixing your regular lens lets say 18-55mm in reverse, you get mounts for the same. But the problem with using like that is the lens then gets prone to getting dust inside as you are using the unprotected portion of the lens. |
Originally Posted by clevermax
(Post 2736024)
A reproduction ratio of 1:1 means the lens is capable of casting an image of the subject in the sensor which is of the same size as that of the subject itself. Imagine how magnified the photo will appear, say for example we are focusing on a big Ant and it fills the entire sensor area of an APS-C sensor. Super macros are those with a higher magnification than 1:1. That means the image casted on the sensor will be bigger than the actual size of the subject itself. |
Originally Posted by white-rabbit
(Post 2736042)
Sorry,But I am curious.I have tried lense reversal with the mount I bought from ebay and also some macro close up filters. Both pictures didnt come out well.Any I dea how to use these filters to get some good images? Below is one image I tried to click with 18-55mm+ 20 closeup filter and one filter had '58mm macro filter' written on that. I used shutter as 1/80,F5.6,ISO 3200. Any Idea how to use those filters? |
Originally Posted by clevermax
(Post 2736024)
A reproduction ratio of 1:1 means the lens is capable of casting an image of the subject in the sensor which is of the same size as that of the subject itself. Imagine how magnified the photo will appear, say for example we are focusing on a big Ant and it fills the entire sensor area of an APS-C sensor. Super macros are those with a higher magnification than 1:1. That means the image casted on the sensor will be bigger than the actual size of the subject itself. |
Originally Posted by HellwratH
(Post 2736071)
The only thing I'd like to add is that magnification is independent of sensor size. It's a characteristic of lens and not the camera's sensor. Which means, that the FOV with an APS-C sensor is 1.6 (or 1.5):1 when a macro lens like Canon 100mm is used at 1:1. And it's 2:1 FOV with micro four thirds cameras. |
Originally Posted by clevermax
(Post 2736077)
Yes HW, I didn't mean that it is related to sensor size at all. I used APS-C as an example because that's almost the size required to fill a bigger Ant at 1:1 magnification ratio For full frame and 1:1, you need a bigger creature to fill in the entire sensor at 1:1 :D |
Originally Posted by motomaverick
(Post 2736014)
Thats basically fixing your regular lens lets say 18-55mm in reverse, you get mounts for the same. But the problem with using like that is the lens then gets prone to getting dust inside as you are using the unprotected portion of the lens. |
Originally Posted by clevermax
(Post 2736057)
Since most of the kit lenses have crappy optical quality (Canon, Nikon, Sony whatever), issues like CA will show up in reversed macros. The macro filter should align perfectly with the lens. Then you need to use very narrow apertures to get some good depth of field, rather than focusing on a narrow region. That requires good lighting, for you to use faster shutter speeds. You can use a Pringles can to direct and diffuse light right in front of the lens. I'd advice you to use a better macro filter like DCR250 on a good quality prime or 70-200 zoom lens to get quality macros. |
Originally Posted by white-rabbit In most of the articles,it was written to use the widest aperture possible. So you say,a powerfull lighting with a narrower apperture will be better,right? |
Originally Posted by clevermax
(Post 2736101)
If you are using a macro filter, then you need to use narrower apertures in your lens. For example, to get a bee's round face and some more fully in focus, you might need to use an aperture like f/20 assuming focal length is about 100mm. Quoting this as an example because i saw a sample shot with DCR250 in flickr, and that had and exif like that.. I am still to venture into macro photography, waiting for cheap gears to arrive :D |
Divide 1 meter by the diopter to give the distance from subject to front of lens when the lens is set to infinity. There are 25.4mm in 1 inch. You can also stack where a +2 and +3 = a +5. +1 diopter = 1/1 = 1 meter from subject to front of lens......(39.37") +2 diopter = 1/2 = 500mm from subject to front of lens.......(19.69") +3 diopter = 1/3 = 333mm from subject to front of lens.......(13.11") +4 diopter = 1/4 = 250mm from subject to front of lens.......(9.84") +5 diopter = 1/5 = 200mm from subject to front of lens.......(7.87") |
Originally Posted by clevermax
(Post 2736101)
"Use widest aperture possible" still applies here. You need to figure out which is the widest possible by checking the depth of field you are getting...With macro adapters, the widest possible apertures will be relatively narrower than apertures used for normal shots. I can't comment on the aperture values that normally can be used with actual macro lenses, may be HW can throw some light. |
Originally Posted by white-rabbit
(Post 2733889)
Guys,which will be the best cheap Macro lens to start with? What is this 'MACRO' button on Tamaron 300mm lense?Is it good to buy a Tele lens with macro ability or a Macro lens alone? |
Originally Posted by altius
(Post 2736600)
Need some advice from experts here. Between a new 550D and a used 50D, which one is a better buy. I am planning to change from a P&S to SLR. I have a Nikon Pronea 6i APS SLR, which i haven't used in a few years. The usage would be mostly outdoors. Thanks in advance. |
Originally Posted by altius
(Post 2736600)
Need some advice from experts here. Between a new 550D and a used 50D, which one is a better buy. I am planning to change from a P&S to SLR. I have a Nikon Pronea 6i APS SLR, which i haven't used in a few years. The usage would be mostly outdoors. Thanks in advance. |
Originally Posted by deadman
(Post 2736685)
You better buy compact SLR like nikon J1 OR V1. Which will be easy to take anywhere. |
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