Team-BHP - The Home Appliance thread

Quote:

Originally Posted by BaCkSeAtDrIVeR (Post 4630679)

Glass tops alone seem to meet the criteria. But YouTube has plenty of horror stories about shatter proof glasses exploding. So, the question is, how safe are these?

Not 100% safe is where my vote is. Personally I have stayed away. Steel cooktops are much more safe for obvious reasons. Plus, a lot more precautions to be taken while using glass cooktops. Like to avoid keeping hot pans and cookers directly on glass. Though precautions need to be taken with steel cooktops too, but they are way more abuse friendly for daily use. There have been cases of the entire cooktops shattering up due to heat or bad handling.
And given my obsession towards safety, if you ever step into my otherwise nicely done kitchen, you would find an unattractive double burner steel cooktop on duty.

Regards,
Saket.

<crossposted --- about glass cooktops.>

I have seen one explode. It was quite dramatic, and, thankfully, no-one was in the direct line of fire.

The cause was not established, and the new kitchen in that house was fitted with a different stove. I suspect that some major installation mistake was made, eg, somehow it did not have room to expand. But I am just guessing.

Probably it is necessary to follow the instructions 100% to be sure of safety. Not... throw them away and get on with things, as some people would certainly do.

Quote:

Originally Posted by govigov (Post 4630722)

Are there any geysers that work well with pressure pumps? We recently renovated 2 bathrooms and installed pressure pump and the works, but decided to keep the old instant geyser. That is now spewing out lukewarm water with pressure pump. If the pressure pump is off, then the water temperature is good. How do I remedy this situation?

I drew a separate water line from the tank to the geyser amongst other things and another regular water line from the pressure pump. The pressurized water line only feeds the bath rooms and wash basin. The non pressure water line feeds kitchen, garden and outside rest room. This way there is less chance of water getting wasted. A pressure pump working at 3 bar can easily output about 10-20 liters of water every minute from a tap.

If you don't want to draw separate lines, get a pressure reducer valve and install it before your geyser. They are available from Amazon.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom (Post 4630723)

<crossposted --- about glass cooktops.>

I have seen one explode. It was quite dramatic, and, thankfully, no-one was in the direct line of fire.

I had read your earlier warning about this - https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/gadge...ml#post3627353

So a year back when I was in the market for buying a stove, I went out of my way to look for one without a glasstop - the features I wanted mostly available only in glass tops - I had to get the shop to order one for me from his brochure and had to wait for more than a week to get it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by govigov (Post 4630722)

You can put a pressure control value/stopcock to control the pressure of inlet.

Quote:

Originally Posted by govigov (Post 4630722)

An instant geyser supplies heat on the go. Depending on the inlet temperature of water the outlet temperature is directly proportionate to the water flow rate. With pressure pump you have increased the flow rate, hence tepid water. Just close the water tap a bit and the water will be warmer. Experiment with water tap setting till you get desired temperature.

This is how we used to regulate outlet temperature during severe cold in Delhi - water at 4 degrees compared to 10+ in normal winters.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BaCkSeAtDrIVeR (Post 4630679)

How durable and safe are the glass top cooktops / hobs? Looks all major manufacturers have practically exited the high to mid - range stainless steel cooktops. And BOSCH has only hobs, no cooktops. Glen has a reasonably priced low spec range, but the width is only 72 cm and reviews are not enthusiastic. Pan support is the weakest point of practically every other sub - 8k offering from all other brands.

Specifically, looking for a 3 burner cooktop, at least 75 cm wide, below 12 cm height. Preferably, with brass burners. Auto ignition is desirable, but not a deal breaker.

Glass tops alone seem to meet the criteria. But YouTube has plenty of horror stories about shatter proof glasses exploding. So, the question is, how safe are these?

Have you checked if the Elica models fit your size requirements? My cousin has one for the past 3 years and has done all kinds of heavy duty cooking on it and it has held up well.

@sagarpadaki, sir, did not see Elics steel tops on Amazon. I'll have a look at their site.

Quote:

Originally Posted by carboy (Post 4630814)

- the features I wanted mostly available only in glass tops - I had to get the shop to order one for me from his brochure and had to wait for more than a week to get it.

If you dont mind, which model / brand did you get?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom (Post 4630723)

<crossposted --- about glass cooktops.>

I have seen one explode. It was quite dramatic, and, thankfully, no-one was in the direct line of fire.

Scary.

Quote:

Originally Posted by neofromcapone (Post 4630696)

Been using glass top since 9 years.
Done Ganpati festival cooking also on it.
No problem whatsoever, just buy a reputed brand.

Which brand is this?

Quote:

Originally Posted by saket77 (Post 4630695)

Not 100% safe is where my vote is. Personally I have stayed away. Steel cooktops are much more safe for .

I'm now veering to this view. But the kitchen slab is concrete, (so no flexibility to reduce the slab height) and we need to lower the vessel height for sake of body comfort. The 2 - 3 cm reduction in stove height is crucial.

Quote:

Originally Posted by govigov (Post 4630722)

Suspect that pressure booster compatibility is not advertised much. I have a racold, and the info about the model being pressure booster Compatibility was buried in the user manual.

I guess you should go for a 15l or higher capacity model with 1500w or higher heater. Reasons are already given by aroy. Dont go by sales material. Have a look at the user manual.

One area where I disagree is - no point in having a pressure booster if you keep water flow low. May be I feel so because I dont have one installed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BaCkSeAtDrIVeR (Post 4630909)

@sagarpadaki, sir, did not see Elics steel tops on Amazon. I'll have a look at their site.

My Bad. I did not read properly. You are looking for a steel top 3 burner and i read it as glass top 3 burner. I was suggesting you the glass top 3 burner. And no Elica does not have Steel top at all. No point in visiting the store.

If you are very particular about Steel top 3 burner, check the Vidiem brand. They have one 3 burner model

https://www.vidiem.in/product/tiro-plus-3-burner .

Currently it is showing out of stock.Contact them directly via email and check if they have it or can procure one and ship for you. They are pretty responsive over email. I have interacted with them for a few products.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prodigy07 (Post 4629219)

My 5 year old Bosch Washing machine often emits pungent odour while washing. I suspect that requires descaling?

Bosch technician is against using that powder and he's insisting on using the powder that's available in the market here. Is that right?

Most odour is a consequence of the bacteria, yeast, and/or mold. They thrive in damp, dark places. You may have to take extra precautions against those conditions that promote their growth.

As far as the use of the powder against descaling, I don't see what the problem is - meaning, the nature of the scaling would be the same either in Germany, India, or any where else in the world. The science of de-scaling is also the same every place. Can't imagine a reason for the technicians suggestions.

Hi All,

I need some inputs about a UPS.

Background:
I recently got a 2kVA pure sine wave UPS from a company in Coimbatore called Kondaas. The UPS is rated for 1400W of load. The peak load in the UPS circuit at home is about 1200W, but under normal use case, the load would be around 600W.

Everything works fine except for one issue. When the grid supply is off and the loads are powered by the UPS, if I turn on the TV or the home theater system (a 5.1 Denon system with a subwoofer), the UPS trips. TV and home theater draw a combined power of 180W. I measured the in rush current during turn on, and it is about 8A each for the TV and home theater. This is almost 1.6kW of in rush power requirement.

If the TV and home theater are powered and in standby, this problem does not exist. If the TV and home theater are already turned on when power fails, the UPS changes over to backup power without any issue. The problem occurs only during cold start of the TV or home theater when the backup power is already on.

Now my questions:

1. Is there any 2kVA pure sine wave UPS that can take 150% overload for a few hundred milliseconds?
2. Does anyone have a similar experience of UPS tripping when turning on electronic loads that have SMPS power supply inside? If yes, did you find a solution?
3. I have an idea that if I can find a soft start circuit that can limit in rush current, this tripping problem can be solved. Has anyone used such a soft start circuit?

Thanks in advance for your inputs.