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Did you change the cooling settings knob? I had the same issue/feature(?) with my brand new Samsung fridge. It used to either collect a lot of ice or have a lot of water. I adjusted it according to the weather (cooling in Godrej I think) settings and now it's fine. Although it collects a lot of water in the excess water tray during power outages.

Yes, I did! The fridge wasn't getting cold enough, so made it cooler through the weather setting. I also changed the other setting - one sending more air to fridge & less to freezer. Then fridge got too cold - 0 degrees. So then adjust to send a little more to freezer.

But I have a vague memory that water thing started even before I changed the settings the first time - when the fridge was not getting cold enough, it was also forming water drops in the tray compartment between the fridge & the freezer.

So what does this mean? Should I ignore the water forming?

Every household must invest in one contactless Thermometer. Your fridge's temperature readings (if it has) are not accurate. So use an IR thermometer to read the actual temperature in the freezer and the normal fridge compartments.

In Indian conditions, the fridge temperature should be about 4 degree C. If you go lesser than that it will form ice and it doesn't help the perishables.

The freezer compartment in the fridge can be -4 to -9 degree C depending upon the items kept inside. Meats require -9 degree or lower whilst baked items, nuts and others can be left in -4 degree C. Deep freezers are kept at -18 degree C where you can store meat for long term.

So based on the above recommendations, set your controls. Check the temperature when the compressor is running for at least 10 minutes.
When a fridge is operating optimally it will not perspire water inside unless the humidity outside is 85 % and the doors are opened for longer duration.

Even I started noticing after I changed the temperature settings! rl:
I've two fridges, one at each home.

First home:
I didn't fiddle with Godrej - 5 star low power consumption - fridge and it functions fine. Power outages are less and hence less to zero water formation issue. It's turned to minimum settings but nothings spoils. (We don't keep meat for over few hours)

Second home:
Longer power outages and here I see a lot of water formation. Samsung 5-star, extreme low power consumption fridge.

I set the temperature know so that it doesn't become too icy and overloads the freezer with ice and neither too watery.

I have set it to a temperature after 2-3 trials wherein I can see ice droplets (not overflowing with ice) "below" the freezer and "above" the chiller tray. When the power goes out for 8+ hours, there is minimal ice to water conversion and less water collected in the tray.

Bottomline, set it so that if you place an ice cube tray, the ice will form gradually but not quickly and the freezer doesn't get clogged with too much ice. (Wow! I typed lots of ices! :D)

Hi Prowler,

Could you please explain how to fit these MOV's in each socket?
Can one buy these off Amazon or is there a particular brand?
Is a single upstream MCB sufficient for say the Microwave, Air Fryer and Toaster?

Thanks a lot,
Regards,
SS

Any suggestions on this? Nitto Rai?

OTG's in India are mostly not built in models (Unlike abroad). Go for either Morphy Richards or Bajaj, as per capacity. You cant go wrong with either of them. We have some brilliant cooks at home, so that's how I know

A MOV has 2 leads coming out of it. You connect the MOV 2 leads to the phase and neutral of the mains supply sockets. In other words, they are in parallel to the electronics load. The idea is the MOV acts like a short when the terminal voltage exceeds a threshold, thus protecting your equipment.

You can buy these MOV from Amazon or any other supplier. Last when I checked, they cost about Rs.80 for 3 (275V/20A disk type).
A single MCB of 16 A or 20 A would be sufficient for your load - Microwave oven, Air Fryer and Toaster.

Any feedback on quality and support for Amazonbasics appliance? A friend is looking to get a side-by-side 560L fridge. The cost is 45K which is at least 15K less than it's closest competitor. Wondering if the quality and support is good enough. It'd surely not be a Samsung or LG level but in Mumbai is it good?

Suggest not to go with an AmazonBasics product. Bought a vacuum cleaner from them. Went kaput in about three months.

Was really surprised to know that they don't have a service center. Their customer care is a big joke. After multiple calls and follow-up mails, and on bringing up the possibility of taking the matter legally, they finally refunded the purchase amount. The entire experience was an eye-opener for me. Lesson learnt: Better to pay few extra thousands and go for a reliable brand than someone like AmazonBasics who just act as marketing folks for the product without any service center support.

This is just my experience. I see many positive reviews for AmazonBasics products as well.

Amazon has a business model based on shifting stuff, fast and cheaply, not on stocking spare parts and providing spares and repairs. Buy accordingly!

Amazon basics is good for only mechanical things or things that don't move at all lol. For electronics, its always good to go with a brand which has been doing it for decades if not more.

As the name suggests... Stick to the basics when buying Amazon basics!

Amazon Basics batteries are just not comparable to Duracell. They last around 1/3rd the duration Duracell lasts.

I bought a wall clock from Amazon's white label brand "Solimo" - stopped working in 5-6 months. It was under warranty, but they decided to give me a refund instead.

If it helps, I was in the same predicament a few months back and bought a Haier refrigerator. My main worry was service. Not that Haier is great, but seemed to be better equipped than amazonbasics and such rebranded ones.

Of course, neither of them compare to the LGs and Samsung's of the world, but you also pay about 30% more for them.

Hi Prowler,

Thanks for the information.

Just to make sure there is no confusion, I would have to remove the particular socket from the wall, connect the 2 "leads" of the MOV to the Phase and Neutral (along with the electric wires) and replace the socket back in the wall.

I presume these MOV's are small enough to allow this and the maximum voltage I should buy is 275V/20A disk type.

Many Thanks,
SS