Team-BHP - The home / office air-conditioner thread

Thanks aroy. Issue is the IDU of existing ac has a leak. Last Oct I had got the IDU repaired by plugging the leaks. Now the Technician mentioned that he'll have to take the IDU again to his shop to check. I'm skeptical about the outcome and future reliability hence thought of replacing. Only concern is whether there will be any technical issue if the existing piping which was used for R410a is used for R32.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom (Post 4573742)

By the way, I was wondering... How do hot and cold AC machines heat? Do they reverse the action and become heat pumps, or do they have some heating element?

They have a separate heating coil. Compressor does not switch on when in heating mode. The air from the blower passes over the hot coil and comes out warm

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom (Post 4573742)

Do they reverse the action and become heat pumps, or do they have some heating element?

Quote:

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki (Post 4573777)

They have a separate heating coil.

Heat Pumps do not use a heating element.

The Compressor is active in Heating mode as well. There is no other way it can pump heated refrigerant into the indoor unit. Yes; it is a reverse action that takes place. Technically; they do not create heat. The outdoor unit absorbs warmth from the surrounding air and uses refrigerant as a medium to heat transfer.

Being an inverter unit, power consumption is the least of my worries. I use a 5.8 kilowatt (Heating) Mitsubishi Classic GE50 series Heat Pump

This URL explains it well;
http://www.mitsubishi-electric.co.nz/heatpump/how.aspx

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom (Post 4573742)

By the way, I was wondering... How do hot and cold AC machines heat? Do they reverse the action and become heat pumps, or do they have some heating element?

Quote:

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki (Post 4573777)

They have a separate heating coil. Compressor does not switch on when in heating mode.

Both modes are possible. I have seen both types. The reversing compressor is more efficient since the heat pump action extracts some energy from the outside air. I fact the first AC we had (Airtemp) in the 1960's was in the heat pump mode, while the second unit (Fedders Lloyd) on the 1970's used a heating element. After that I have had no hot and cold ACs.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prowler (Post 4564339)

Go to an electronics spare parts shop and ask for MOV. It is a 2 legged component (Metal Oxide Varistor) that can be fitted inside the metal socket of your AC supply point. Make sure that it is fitted after a suitably rated MCB.

Could you please provide the specifications for the MOV? I am guessing they'd all be the same for the supply points for normal (230 Volts) electronic appliances. Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mvadg (Post 4573879)

Could you please provide the specifications for the MOV? I am guessing they'd all be the same for the supply points for normal (230 Volts) electronic appliances. Thanks.

Metal Oxide Varistor 20mm /300 V/ 20 A

You can check a typical product's data sheet and probably buy from here: https://www.mouser.in/Search/Refine?...rd=MOV-20D301K

I have no business interest in selling MOV or have no stack in mouser supplier. I talked about MOV as it is a cheap solution for all line transients problem.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prowler (Post 4573962)

Metal Oxide Varistor 20mm /300 V/ 20 A

Thanks again! Can you share a picture of how a MOV is connected inside of a 15A electrical outlet ?

The only problem with heat pump AC is that they cannot normally operate below certain ambient temperature. In sub zero temperatures the outside condenser may freeze.

https://www.carrier.com/residential/...-conditioners/
https://www.trane.com/residential/en...s-a-heat-pump/

Quote:

Originally Posted by NPV (Post 4573986)

Thanks again! Can you share a picture of how a MOV is connected inside of a 15A electrical outlet ?

I have given a basic circuit diagram here showing the connections. I have used a capacitor symbol instead of the MOV symbol as MOV symbol was not available in the diagram drawing software.

In words, the mov is connected across the supply line. I screw the terminals directly to the socket. Make sure that the excess wire is trimmed. But make sure that there is a fuse or a miniature circuit breaker ahead of this mov.

I usually use 300 V/ 20 A/ 20 mm MOV which protects the appliance connected from a Neutral failure as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Prowler (Post 4574070)

I have given a basic circuit diagram here showing the connections. I have used a capacitor symbol instead of the MOV symbol as MOV symbol was not available in the diagram drawing software. ......

Finally found that note to myself : MOV 14N431K spike buster surge protector.

This was in the spike buster for my ancient PC. Those days I didn't know where I could buy them. SP Rd people were unhelpful.

Which 1.5 ton AC would be better - Panasonic or Voltas? Panasonic now gives a 5 year warranty for the PCB. Both have the same star rating. Not interested in the other brands.

Quote:

Originally Posted by AMG Power (Post 4574262)

Which 1.5 ton AC would be better - Panasonic or Voltas? Panasonic now gives a 5 year warranty for the PCB. Both have the same star rating. Not interested in the other brands.

Don't know about Panasonic but we are extremely satisfied with our two 5 year old Voltas 1.5T non inverter units. Performs as well as they did on day one with just usual cleanings till now.
Only grouse is that the external units are a bit noisy. I don't know if they have improved on this aspect or not. But if you plan to keep the external unit away from the windows or on your terrace then you can consider Voltas.