[Poitive]

It is a good idea to take three types of test drives. One like an everyday drive; like how you’d usually drive the vehicle on it’s daily runs. Another one with all the users of the vehicle (typically family) to see if all are comfortable for their purposes, and to note the behaviour of the car with that load. One getting into thoughtful and intuitive details of various aspects, as an enthusiast might. The prime focus here is on the third type – to note the driving characteristics and the details, along with some other finer points. T-Bhpians might find some points too basic, however this is written considering the forum has a large non-member reader base.

Driving Related - I

A) Road Selection

1. Surfaces
   Ideally choose a mix of different surfaces. Smooth roads, pothole ridden parts, broken roads including ones often seen in cities, with a layer or two from the top is broken. Also include different types of speed breakers in your path. If you can find a patch which allows mid speed driving and has the road rising and then falling, it helps in determining the suspension a bit better. If on a turn, could be even better provided you can confidently drive suitably on it.
   .
2. Speeds
   One should of course, try the vehicle at different speeds. From lowish speeds of 10-25kmph to mid-speed drives to a highway run if it is possible. Most cities also have parts where the speed limits are higher, so try to include those. Also try out a busy section for bumper to bumper traffic for a bit.
   .
3. Same roads if possible
   Ideally call the vehicles to your place to be able to experience the same roads across test drives of different cars. In case that is not possible, try to go to a part of town which has different relevant brand showrooms close by, to be able to experience the same roads.
   .
4. Hills, special purpose
   If you are taking on the hills choose uphill, downhill, bends, and the different surfaces one might have; especially at the entrance of properties or smaller roads leading to them. Also consider any special purpose needs you have, check on such surfaces if possible.
   .

[Poitive]

B) Checks – Ride, Handling etc.

Ride quality should be checked at different speeds and on different types of roads as above. Ride quality might change amply with speed, as noticed in a recent TD of the Mahindra XUV700 described here. Ride comfort should also be checked both in the front and back seats. It too might differ a fair bit as noticed on a TD of the Hector here. Also check the third row if relevant.

Check for the control and composure you feel from the car at different speeds on different surfaces. Also how it feels while swerving at different speeds. Also during turns on the aforementioned roads surfaces. Different cars being tried on the same patches of road will give a better comparison than them being driven on random roads. Also note how the car behaves while accelerating and braking for a sense of stability. Experienced drivers might also use this to judge weight distribution between wheels, and use that to better control the car (beyond the scope of this).

VERY light braking on moderate turns also gives a bit of an idea of vehicle feel. This is ONLY for experienced drivers and to be done very responsibly. Going wrong on this could be disastrous, so do NOT try it if you are not confident. It should only be done if you have done it several times on your daily ride on the same road conditions.

One should also check for bodyroll, both in terms of ride comfort on different rows, and also for the sense of control one feels. It is especially important for those who expect to drive a lot in the hills; even more so if one is prone to being carsick.

Also check for how quickly the car changes direction and whether it feels bulky or agile while driving. A light steering can mask the effect of a heavy vehicle, which can be considered a plus or a minus. Plus for many comfort driven users, and a minus for someone who wants better feedback from the car for enthusiastic driving. Steering feel at such times also helps manage the car well (more on this below).

If you have been able to find a road where it rises and then falls as mentioned before, see how connected the tyres feel when the car rises, and how the feels while it is dropping to lower ground and the suspension would be stressed. Experienced drivers might be able to try this on roads which are curved or on gentle turns, to check the suspension characteristics better. Again, this should be done with a lot of caution.

Cars often peak in their characteristics at certain speed and RPM ranges. It differs between cars. In some the difference might be ample and significantly felt, if looked out for. While driving at a certain speed might give a rough idea of how it might behave at different speeds, it might not be reliable. A bit on this in the In-Sync, Agility etc. section here.

Eventually, one is really looking at comfort in the seat and good control and composure of the car in different situations.

[Poitive]

C) Steering feel

Steering feel is often largely on comfort or on feel. Some are soft at slow speeds and weight up at higher speeds but providing limited steering feel/feedback. This is typical of EPS (Electric Power Steering). While EPS allows for a lot of control in how it is configured, in most cases designed to be soft, and is popular with those seeking convenience. For those looking for a better sense of connect with the car and road, an HPS (Hydraulic Power Steering) would often be better. It may often be a bit hard even at low/parking speeds. One feels the resistance the tyres feel more directly on the steering, so if you’re moving the tyres on the road at a near stand-still, the tyres are facing resistance from the road and you’ll feel it in the steering. A lot also depends on how they are designed. A well worked out HPS is a joy for many an enthusiast. Some EPS systems too do quite well. Eg Jeep Compass here. On some steering setups (it actually goes beyond just the steering), one is able to amply feel the road surface the tyres are interacting with. While this leads to an even better connect with the vehicle, it might be rather uncomfortable for many for daily use. It is really a matter of personal preference.

While judging the steering feel, do factor in what you have been used to – and EPS or an HPS. If an EPS, you are likely to find HPS too heavy, but often one might get used to it over time and appreciate what it offers if one really enjoys the connect and driving experience. If you’ve been used to an HPS, you might want to dismiss an EPS too easily as the feedback/feel might feel too less and limited. As one uses it, one is likely to become a bit more sensitive, and the feel might not feel as lacking (though still remain limited in scope).

An interesting thread on HPS here.

Check how fast and precisely the car responds to steering inputs (eg driving confidently and safely between two obstacles). This would be a combination of steering design, suspension design, chassis rigidity, weight distribution etc. Some cars feel more agile than others. Usually a heavier car on a soft suspension will feel a lot less agile than a light one on a harder suspension and a rigid chassis. Low cars are inherently better placed to optimise this.

Also note how much you need to turn the steering for the car to turn a certain amount. It is usually not an issue in modern cars; was a bigger factor in non-power-steering cars. Also check for the size of the steering wheel and if it is comfortable for you; also if it touches your legs in your natural sitting position. This should only really be an issue for tall drivers and on variants without much seat height adjustment.

[Poitive]

D) Brakes at different speeds
Like all else, do this responsibly, especially taking care of traffic behind you. Be careful of the surface of the road. Any oil spills etc can make it dangerous. Bear in mind that the kind of road surface you are on will also have a bearing on the results.
.

• While judging brakes, check how far down the pedal needs to be pressed for the brakes to engage. Also how rapidly they engage (bite).
  .
• A good setup will also give you some feedback and you would feel the brake progressing in it’s intensity. It helps in braking suitably when the vehicle in front of you brakes hard, and you need to break in a way to avoid being read-ended.
  .
• Check how stable the car feels while you brake. Check this on different surfaces if possible. Also see if the front of the vehicle goes down a lot (pitches) and makes occupants uncomfortable. If too much, it akso affects vehicle stability, especially if it is an emergency brake at a turn; furthermore in a high vehicle (crossover/SUV).
  .
• Of course see how much distance it takes for a car to slow down and stop. This would again vary based on the kind of surface the car is being driven on.
  .
• Really experienced drivers might try beyond in different conditions. Would not like to list it here. Ones who are, would know what to do. Ones who aren’t, should not try.

[Poitive]

Driving Related - II

E) Load on vehicle

Try to take your main test drive(s) with a similar number of people aboard, as ride and handling changes with the load on the vehicle. It is more prominent in some vehicles than others. Weight towards the rear end of the vehicle (third row/boot) influences more. Now, when on that test drive with family, you might also want to check how things change with that added load. This would be more noticeable on turns and bad roads.

F) Tyres

Tyre pressure makes a significant change on your ride and handling. Also on steering feel. It is worth checking tyre pressures for each TD you do. Marginally low pressure will likely result in a softer ride, somewhat harder steering, somewhat poorer handling (turns feel a tad less sharp and less controlled). Can also make the car feel a bit sluggish in pick up etc (more prominent in lower torque/petrol vehicles). Marginally high pressure will likely result in the reverse. Also increased braking distance.

Tyre pressures mentioned by manufacturers are ‘cold tyre pressures', which is measured when the car has not been used for several hours, typically in the morning before starting. On use, it often changes about 2-4 psi or more. Less so on nitrogen. You might want to adjust tyre pressure based on the load on the vehicle.

A point about rim diameter: Some cars come in two different rim sizes, with the higher size typically having lower tyre profile (less height to accommodate a larger rim/alloy within same outer diameter). Do note the size you are driving. Bigger rim size and lower profile tyres will typically give a harder ride, and somewhat better handling. The effect might be lessened by the choice of tyre by the manufacturer. So, if you find the ride too hard in your TD vehicle, and the variant you are choosing is one with a smaller rim size, you are likely to get a softer ride.

Side note: Tyre sizes are mentioned as “Tyre Width im mm”/”Aspect Ratio in %” R “Diameter of rim in inches”. The Aspect ratio is ratio of height to width expressed in percentage. Eg. 235/60 R18 would imply a height being 60% of 235mm, ie 141mm. The tyre width is of course 235mm, and rim diameter 18”

One might also consider changing the tyres for a different ride and handling experience. While the effect might be significant, one should not expect magic. General advice on tyres can be found here. Threads on tyre change based on different cars can be found here.

[Poitive]

G) Going through the gears

Depending on the engine’s inherent characteristics, tuned torque curves and desired product design (simplistically, how the fuel economy and power delivery have been managed), gear ratios might differ significantly between that you drive daily and the car you are test driving. This is more true between different types of engines: petrol, turbo diesels, and turbo petrols. Considering this, try not to go as per the speed you are used to changing the gear at while looking at the speedometer. Though the RPM is a better guide, don’t be hung on to that either. Try and go by the feel of the engine (how ‘powerful’ it feels) and it’s sound. I have seen people reject good cars as the car didn’t work well with the speeds they were used to changing gears at, and they never really experienced the car as it was meant to be (could be as simple as changing the gears at a higher speed).

For turbo enhanced engines, if turbolag bothers you, it would be worth trying running the car just into the turbo range. For many a good range would be 1500-2200 RPM. This allows one to not needless be at a high RPM which results in poor FE, while having the ability to surge ahead easily when needed, with minimal effect of the infamous turbolag. It might result in slightly poorer FE than being in a lower RPM/higher gear, but possibly way lesser difference than you might imagine as the engine is in it’s efficient range of function. Besides other factors, it is sudden presses to the accelerator when the engine is not responding which results in a lot of fuel wastage; this manner of driving minimizes that, as the engine responds better.

If it matters to you, also see how quickly and surely the gears slot. Also how much you need to move the knob to shift gears.

For automatic transmissions, see which drive modes and throttle inputs give you the desired effect. Also note how fast the car changes gear in response to throttle inputs. Experiment liberally.

Clutch feel and travel: Some are harder than others, with diesel typically being much harder than petrol engines. To reduce the hardness, some cars might be designed to have a longer travel distance. Check how much you need to depress the pedal for the clutch to engage. How fast or slowly the clutch engages/disengages (in some the disengagement is quite rapid, thereby making the car feel a bit jerky at gear changes, though it is increasingly rare). In some cars the gear changes are felt to be smoother by occupants. This is felt when the clutch is released. Worth noticing.

H) NVH (Noise, Harshness, Vibration) etc.

NVH levels would typically change based on the RPM and speed. Also when the engine is getting stressed. Smaller engines would often feel stressed more easily than larger ones, so try to take the engine to a higher RPM on a lower gear to sense that.

Other things which would play a role is whether the windows and doors are properly closed and sealed to minimise wind noise. Also try with windows rolled down. Tyre condition too makes a difference. In case the vehicle is found to have much higher NVH than expected, check for the condition of tyres. The kind of surface you are on too would have a bearing. Roads are laid differently. Some melt away and become smoother (less rolling friction and longer braking distance) and some have bigger gravel with less bitumen, which often make more noise, but would be safer.

Also check for any vibrations felt on the steering wheel and gear lever.

Though NVH often increase or decrease together, but not always. Try and note what specifically feels good or bad. At times, it might be traffic noise, or engine vibrations, or engine noise at a certain RPM range, or wind noise. See what bothers you and in what conditions. Say if it is traffic noise which bothers you and you usually drive in quieter parts of the country, it would not be a deal breaker.

[Poitive]

Ergonomics etc.

Also factor in for others who might use the car

I) Ergonomics

1. Seat comfort – driver oriented

• I personally pay ample attention to it, as a tired and uneasy driver is more likely to make mistakes.
• See if it has requisite adjustments to get you to a comfortable position.
• For some it is important to be able to see the hood of the car, so adjust seat height accordingly.
• Seat pan adjustment and more commonly lumbar support is found on some. It can be very useful for some.
• Seatbelt comfort. All aren’t equally comfortable. Height adjustments help.

2. Seat comfort - general

• Comfortable back angle on the rear bench. Some allow adjustable recline, which could be a boon.
• Headroom. A bit extra is good for the times when the car gets unsettled due to unseen speed bumps or bad roads. More headroom often accompanies lower seats and consequently less under-thigh support.
• Under-thigh support. Taller passengers often don’t get it. If there is immense legroom, stretching one’s legs might provide some support.
• If there is too much under-thigh support with legs in an unstretched position, it might be bothersome on really long drives as it makes it difficult to stretch legs. It is less relevant if the legroom anyway doesn’t allow much stretching. This can be even more bothersome if users are shorter than the one’s checking the car.
• Ideally one should find more than one comfortable position to sit in. It especially makes longer journeys more comfortable (as the same specific parts of the body aren’t under pressure for long).
• A sliding rear bench can be a boon for adequate legroom, especially for the breakup between the second and third row in case of a 3 row car.
• Check if a transmission tunnel hump affects the sitting of the centre passenger in the rear row.
• Check if the drop down armrest hurts the back of the third passenger.
• Type of seatbelts for third passenger, mounts for child seats and other safety related issues should also be checked.

3.Footwell

• A dead pedal can be very comfortable. Check for it. Especially if with large feet, check if moving from the dead pedal to the clutch is without obstructions. If the clutch pedal is too close and raised, one’s foot might hit the lower part of the pedal in the motion.
• See if the feet sit naturally. That the legs are comfortably supported on the sides, if your sitting stance so needs it. It is especially helpful for long journeys.
• Comfortable and natural distance between pedals. It might be a bit different from what you are used to and people typically easily adjust to minor changes. However if the change is major, and you often drive different vehicles, consider this aspect seriously as most of the use of these pedals is instinctive, and two different setups can be an issue.
• Some like to heel-toe between the brake and accelerator pedals. If you do that, check the comfort of pedals for the purpose.
• A few cars might feel odd in terms of the angle of the floor, the seat position, and the pedals. This would also depend on your height and natural sitting position and the adjustments the seat provides. Pressing the pedals should feel natural, as should resting the left foot on the dead pedal or floor of the car.

4) Armrests

• Check both sides’ comfort. The odd car has them at different heights.
• The effective height would also change with your seat height adjustment.
• A slide forward design for the centre armrest can feel particularly comfortable. It also accommodates for drivers of different heights.

5) Gear lever

Check it feeling right in your hand and especially in it’s movement and use from your natural position (armrest or otherwise). Worth checking the handbrake lever as well.

6) Knobs and buttons and controls

• Check if stalks are for RHD or LHD vehicles (indicators on the right or left). If you are going to use only one vehicle, even if there is a change in orientation, one usually adapts in a while. If one is using multiple vehicles regularly, different orientations mess up instinct.
• Check for comfortable reach, on both the door side and the console side, and other spaces (eg between steering and door).
• The odd vehicle has them designed poorly that one’s skin can get squeezed between them. Check for that.
• If the vehicle is dependent on voice commands for basic operation, check it for usability.If not up to the mark, this might be improved over time by software upgrades by the manufacturer.

7) Ingress and Egress

• Check for overall comfort for yourself and others using the vehicle.
• Also consider how it may be for older people, and ones with back issues which are increasingly common.
• From a comfort perspective, seats heights which one can simply slide onto than climb or drop into are better.
• Wide door openings are better.
• Comfortable distance between B pillar and the rear seat.
• Check how much the bottom of door opening is raised as compared to the car’s floor. Less is better.
• A good distance between the top of the door opening and seat is helpful and would allow entering the car without much crouching even for taller people.

8) Vision

• In case seeing the hood is important for you, see if it is suitably visible.
• Check for blind spots due to the A-pillar.
• Check for blind spots due to extra large ORVMs.
• Check if the view from the rear view mirror is adequate.

9) Misc

• Footroom on different seats. With the space under the co-driver’s seat being used for different things now (hybrid batteries, audio equipment), especially check for this space.
• The odd car might have something which you might feel odd and uneasy to use. Be observant about that. In my case, it was the seat-floor-pedals angles in a Cruze which felt odd and uneasy.
• Handles' comfort - Door handles (exterior) and grab handles (interior).

Besides the points mentioned above, it is also important to see anything which feels uneasy and unnatural to you. If so, then to see if there is an adjustment which might reduce or eliminate the issue. People’s bodies are different. Even people of the same height might find very different comfort and sense of space in the same cabin based on their body proportions, and what they are used to and expect. Try to experience things yourself and not base it on secondary opinion.

J) Cabin quality etc. (ergonomics and beyond)
While at it, good to check other aspects of the cabin too.

1. Quality of materials used.

2.The aesthetics and style elements and whether they agree with you.

3. Surfaces are and how sunlight interacts with them.

• Especially in light colours, at times, the dash might give reflections on your windscreen, or be reflective enough to cause glare reflecting morning or evening sunlight.
• Screens can get washed out in direct sunlight, or be too reflective to use.

4. In case you have a preference for airy cabins, also consider that from all the rows.

5. Also check the AC:

• How rapidly it cools
• Air throw
• Adequate cooling of all rows.
• Fan and wind noise
• Adjustments available - both to the air flow and temperature (auto mode etc).
• Check if cool air hits any parts which bother you (mainly for the rear rows).
• An air-purifier if you care for it.

[Poitive]

Miscellaneous

K) Build quality

• One might judge this from door thuds, bonnet weight, evenness of panel gaps etc. Also from a general feel of the car.
• Any unusual sounds one might hear from the vehicle while driving it, especially on poor roads.
• General quality of materials used.
• How the little things are done and thought of in the car. It reflects on the amount of thought that might have gone into designing the car.

The above is a highly subjective and like informed guesses on how well the car might be built.

L) Storage

• Cabin
  • Cup holder, bottle holder, place to keep the mobile and other needs which you might have. Any other knick-knacks or other requirements you might have for carrying stuff – map pockets, bottle holders, laptop trays’ possibility, entertainment screens for the rear benches.
• Boot storage
  • Check capacity, not just in litres but actual dimensions for standard bag sizes, or for any particular stuff you think you might need to carry.
  • For SUVs, hatchbacks and the likes, consider the height at which storage blocks outside view. Blocking it would be risky, and highly avoidable especially for long journeys.
  • You might want to consider how flat the seats fold, the capacity gained by putting the seats down.
  • Height you need to lift stuff to put into the boot.
• Roof
  • If you intend carrying stuff on the roof, check possibility, capacity and availability of suitable accessories.
• Special purpose
  • Any other storage needs you might have for your purposes.

[Poitive]

M) Audio, Entertainment, Driver interface, features.

1. General

• Check comfort of use and how intuitive it feels; especially the driver info one needs while driving.
• Check if there are needed hardware buttons for required functions, if you so prefer them. Some vehicles don’t allow some functions while other’s are in progress (changing AC temp while being on a call might be a challenge for some)
• If audio commands enabled, check for comfort of using those. This could be improved by companies over time with software upgrades. Whether it would be done enough is anyone’s guess.
• Interface with your devices – Android, Iphone, any hadrware device you plan to add. Wireless of wired. Convenience of keeping/installing your device (location, wiring, power supply etc)
• Screen clarity for general use, and the camera-screen clarity.

2. Audio Setup
(this is a topic in itself, and only very briefly touched here)

• Sound quality: Clarity and sound stage. Use your own audition music to test. Component speakers often give better quality. A thread on the subject, along with some humour to lighten you up can be found here.
• Subwoofer – present or not; to taste or not (after due settings)
• Adjustments available:
  • Time alignment allows for better sound stage. Allows better subwoofer integration.
  • EQ settings. If the setup matches your taste, you might not find much use, but if it doesn’t it can be a life-saver. Different levels of settings within EQ are possible. Check for those.
  • Crossover settings – cutoff frequency and roll off. Relevant if a subwoofer is present or planned.
  • Fader/Balance to shift centre of sound stage (almost all have this).
  • Profiles for different seats.
  • More settings does not mean a better system. More adjustments often mean a longer signal path, with each adding distortion.
  • Damping of the car. Helps with better sound insulation and also better output and clarity from speakers; felt even more while the car is in motion and in traffic. Loosely, a car with better insulation from traffic noise likely to fare better.
  • Could carry on, but that is an audio-specific topic so will leave it here.

3. Apps

• Map app: Increasingly useful. See if you’re okay with what the car provides.
• Other apps you care for: Music, Connect to company, etc.

N) Misc.

• Headlights and Fog Lamps
  • Intensity at low and high beam
  • Direction and spread
  • Colour temperature suitability
  • Adjustments (eg level adjustment of headlamp)
    .
• Any feature or aspect you care for not covered above.
  This is also that little ‘disclaimer’ for things which might have skipped off my mind, and for fellow mates to add and elaborate

[Poitive]

O) Useful Links

Some other useful links on related subjects can be found as below:
.

• ARTICLE: How to buy a *NEW* car in India
  .
  
• Link to PDI checklist PDF download.
  In case you want more details and perspectives, check the next link.
  .
• ARTICLE: Pre-delivery Inspection (PDI) & Check List
  .
  
• ARTICLE: Find your car's date of manufacture (VIN)
  .
  
• ARTICLE: No Claim Bonus - How to save on your insurance premiums!
  .
  
• Global NCAP crash tests | Broken down & explained

[Poitive]

Footnotes

IMPORTANT: Regardless of what is written here or elsewhere: please do drive safely, keeping both your own safety and that of people around you in mind. Nothing is worth an accident. Try things out considering this is a new vehicle and it just might surprise you with it being different from what you are used to. Please be responsible.

Try to take someone along while on a test drive. While one focuses on driving, those accompanying can make observations on other aspects. If you have access to someone who is a more knowledgeable and skilled, try taking them along for your final selection.

By no means is this the only way to test drive. Everyone has their own needs and priorities; also subjective opinions. Please feel free to add your thoughts below. A forum adds value by open minded sharing of different views and approaches to different aspects on a subject.

This trigger for this thread partly came up as below:

Originally Posted by shancz

That effort was extraordinarily detailed and covered what everyone else had missed apparently. I learnt so much about how to take a proper TD.

Originally Posted by Poitive

- Thanks mate.
- In my earlier innings had thought of starting a thread on taking effective Test Drives. Might do so now, when time and mood allow.

The above list is rather extensive, and one can't expect all points to be followed meticulously, however it serves as a list of things worth considering. Even in my own test drives, I have not covered all aspects and have focused on what mattered more to me. My recent test drives can be found here.

[GTO]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Indian Car Scene. Thanks for sharing!

Going to our homepage tomorrow .

Very comprehensive list & diehard enthusiasts or the very-particular ones will surely appreciate. For most people though, they either won't have the time or knowledge (accurate automotive observations take skill) to evaluate a car like this. For them, it'll be best to read the Team-BHP Review, BHPian test-drive reports (showroom TD posts from members are so damn insightful), and then check out the car themselves. Do this for all the shortlisted models and pick the one that you + your family are most comfortable with, and "connected" the most with.

[CARDEEP]

Brilliant compilation of all factors. One has to exercise patience when buying vehicle. But often we overlook one or other (in fact one too many) when buying & end up making a compromise in long run.

This can be Sirius star when shortlisting cars, like the PDI when we go to inspect the vehicle allocated to us.

[Bibendum90949]

Originally Posted by Poitive

Different cars being tried on the same patches of road will give a better comparison than them being driven on random roads.

This I guess is one of the most important facets while test driving cars. Also, taking a TD along your regular route which you've done umpteen times will provide a clear picture and feel about how the car performs/behaves. One can clearly make out how good or bad the car is while tackling those familiar speed breaker, flyover road joints, potholes and the likes. The best way is to request the dealer to bring the vehicle to your place so that you can hit your familiar roads with it. I've seen people taking test drives on random roads which the dealer chap suggests. While this may help one to get a basic feel and experience of the car, gauging/differentiating the finer points won't be possible.

I've set a familiar circuit of 16-18 kms for all test drives. And i've been using them for few years. It has straight stretches, speed breakers, flyover joints, broken surfaces(goes without saying for Blore), corners, well paved roads and if needed a slushy and rocky trail too(if it's an SUV that's being tested). And every vehicle I take in this route, I could differentiate easily how each of them fared in those road conditions, the good and bad bits.

Last year, I was test driving the new Thar and I indicated to the dealer that I'm looking for an extensive test drive that covers all conditions as above. They obliged. And I did take it on the slushy, rocky paths too which I regularly drive on. Bangalore had heavy rains then and the slush was deeper than normal. Engaged the 4*4, tested it out to my satisfaction. In fact the same trail was done multiple times. After the test drive, this is what the dealer guy told me "Sir, this is my first time in an year with Thar test drives someone has taken the car to off road and tested it" .He said, 90% of Thar buyers test drives them on city roads. Yes I did book the Thar soon after. A picture from that drive.



Very well compiled thread poitive and a good pointer to lot of people taking test drives

[DicKy]

That is a pretty exhaustive checklist for a TD.

Most buyers don't really go for a proper TD, and if proper TDs like the below are given, it would lead to many prospective buyers having fresh perspectives of less selling, but capable vehicles. Like the one mentioned below.

The team then suggested that we once again go for a test drive, this time with their expert driver, to actually get to know the real capabilities of the car and with nothing else to do we were ok with it. The test drive that we were taken on included;
1. High speeds on a rough road, marred with potholes, showcasing the solid suspension and a planted ride.
2. Then into and through rocky boulder terrain showcasing its off-road capabilities, albite with limitations as the drive was being done in 4x2 mode to showcase me the 4x2 capabilities of Jeep as I would not be going in for 4x4 if at all I think of buying.
3. Then high speed 360 degrees spin on open ground with ESP and rollover mitigation coming into work.
4. High-speed driving & braking showcase its stability & ABD is too good.
5. Then a U-turn at the speed I could not have imagined for an SUV to handle again the ESP and rollover mitigation came to the foray.

All this and we were back to the showroom with a thousand-watt smile on my face. My one question to the manager there – “Where the hell did you get this driver from? Pat came the reply, Sir, “it is not the driver but the car who handled you all”. The team at the Jeep showroom was exceptional. They provided me with all the info about the Jeep Compass. Never did they bad mouth the Harrier and always said it was a good product.

All the above gave me a totally new perspective on how a test drive of a car should be so that its capabilities stand out as compared to the other cars.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/offic...ml#post5224523 (Jeep Compass : Official Review)