[vrprabhu]

Originally Posted by amit_mechengg

Wings auto : Rahul Jadhav - +919011079063

Just making it easy for others to locate Wings Auto -

This place is on the Pune - Bombay highway, close to the overbridge from Pashan to Sus.

Those of you coming from University side, can cross the bridge and go down on the left just about half-a-km from there)

For those coming from Bavdhan / Chandni Chowk, proceed on the highway towards Mumbai. Once you cross Rangla Punjab, take the service road.

A couple of more garages are coming up on the same side now.

PS - No painting facilities as yet.

Originally Posted by R2D2

The fact our Pune based Fiat owners go to him is a big relief to me

If you are staying anywhere near Baner / Pashan / Aundh / Pimpale Saudagar, there is another FNG - Shinde Premier Services (Phone 98222 43118). I have been given pretty good feedback on the issues, and has been very helpful. I found the owner (Shinde) and his chief mechanic (Hari bhau) to be able to diagnose my complaints quickly and reasonable in charges.

Location - on the new Aundh - Baner link road; close to the bridge from where you take a right turn towards Pimpale Nilakh; near the crematorium on Baner side of Mula river (water treatment plant will be on the other side). Landmark is the milk suppliers shop on the main road - garage is behind this.

[swiftnfurious]

Had left the car with Murugan 2-3 weeks back as I had to check the issues.

1. Temperature hitting the half way mark without AC and above 2/3rd level with AC
2. Reduction in coolant level
3. Repainting couple of panels
4. Some vibration whil ecranking up
5. RPM raise issue at times, out of the blue
6. Had to change the right OVRM
7. Combination switch change as the headlight stalk had come off loose

Was told that the car will be delivered in 7-10 days, but took couple of more days. Murugan kept in touch with me on the progress.

Turned out that the fans / relays were all fine, but the fan rpm was lower than it should be. he gave me two options

1. Either change everything to Denso (my fan was Valeo and related components from Denso) which would cost around 9-10K for used parts
2. Find another motor which can match the rpm speed - costs 4-5K. I opted for this. The fan speed has been much better though I feel it's slightly slower than initial one. The cooling is back to normal and on the return drive, the temperature stayed at 1/3rd with AC ON all the time.

3 panels were repainted and the car looks pretty good. However, there are some light scratches (gifted by others) but I am going to leave it as it is.

Murugan said some bushes in the engine bed had worn out and he has replaced it as well. He also stuck the HMSL lamp as one of the pieces was rattling. He mentioned that this is a design flaw.

He also sourced a used combination switch, but the indicator action is a bit damp. Guess I can live with it for the time being.

A used parcel tray was sourced - I think this has improved the cooling tremendously! I never was comfortable with the AC in the afternoon whatever speed I used to run it, but even a speed 1 is enough for me after the tray is installed. The car had met with an accident while driving to Mumbai and had done the denting + repair with this guys. There was a big gap where the brake light is placed and the boot door, when closed. This also might have added to the AC inefficiency, but now the huge boot space is also closed with the tray in place.

I am extremely happy with the attention & detail he has given the car - it feels tight! There is just one odd rattle inside which neither he was nor I am able to trace. I have checked almost everything, but the rattle is there. And it's a total nit picking am doing as this rattle can't be heard even when the music is playing low.

The exhaust noise was quite prominent before, but after the tray in place + some tweaking to the brake light portion metal piece, the noise has reduced byalmost 80-90%. Over all, I am very happy and the car feels totally worth to go another 5-10 years. I am in the process of re-registering it now. Keep you all posted about it.

Edit:: Overall cost was 14.5K which included

Painting - 9K
Other parts + labour : 5.5K

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

1. Either change everything to Denso (my fan was Valeo and related components from Denso) which would cost around 9-10K for used parts
2. Find another motor which can match the rpm speed - costs 4-5K. I opted for this. The fan speed has been much better though I feel it's slightly slower than initial one. The cooling is back to normal and on the return drive, the temperature stayed at 1/3rd with AC ON all the time.

Whole denso radiator fan assy with resistor costs 6.7k. http://www.99rpm.com/fiat/radiator-fan-1-6-palio.html

A friend had ordered the same part from 99rpm and he got it in 2 weeks. I'm surprised Murugan quoted so much. Even for the original fan motor, I had paid 3K for my earlier S10 for an OEM motor, my later GTX had a Ford Ikon fan motor which wouldnt have cost more than 1.5k or so new.

[swiftnfurious]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

...A friend had ordered the same part from 99rpm and he got it in 2 weeks. I'm surprised Murugan quoted so much. Even for the original fan motor, I had paid 3K for my earlier S10 for an OEM motor, my later GTX had a Ford Ikon fan motor which wouldnt have cost more than 1.5k or so new.

It was not just the fan assembly, there were additional parts which shot up the price. I can't really recall all those as it's been a couple of weeks. I am sure he is honest (as he has been) and wouldn't charge extra or unwanted parts.

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

It was not just the fan assembly, there were additional parts which shot up the price. I can't really recall all those as it's been a couple of weeks. I am sure he is honest (as he has been) and wouldn't charge extra or unwanted parts.

I am very much aware of Murugan's honesty, since I have experienced it myself in person. Perhaps he wasnt aware of the price of new parts and relatively easy availability; that was the reason for my surprise.

[sidindica]

In 1.6, temperature always has to stay under the half mark. I too had this issue with my 1.6, resolved with first completely cleaning and flushing the radiator and filling with paraflu coolent, then by changing the thermostat assembly. That's the first prime culprit more than the fan+ motor because the thermostat regulates the speed of fan.

[amit_mechengg]

Instead of getting a new thermostat what palio really needs is to get rid of the thermostat. You can easily remove the thermostat internal valve and make it run in a open loop. This helps in better cooling.
Before someone jumps with the explanation of thermostat and why its required, let me declare i know it very well.

But the way this engine gets hot in no time you can easily do away with this parasite valve

[swiftnfurious]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

... my later GTX had a Ford Ikon fan motor which wouldnt have cost more than 1.5k or so new.

Sunny, how easy is to procure a new Ford Ikon radiator fan? My car is getting heated again now, running very close to half mark even with AC ON and while doing cruising speeds. Very very unpredictable pattern and most probably would leave at Murugan's place this week.

I was driving in good rains last night on 5th gear and the needle just didn't come down from the 2/3rd levels at all. Have been noticing it in the last 2 drives this week. On the first day return drive, the needle was around 1/3rd inspite of being in the traffic signal / bumper to bumper drive.

Could you let me know what all needs to be checked?

[swiftnfurious]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

....

+

Originally Posted by sidindica

....

+

whoever know about the product

Keeping this as a separate post. I am thinking of getting some of the liqui moly products, could you point as to what all needs to be purchased?

EDIT :: Any feedback on Liqui Moly 10W 40 engine oil? I have been using Shell HX 7, if Liqui Moly is better, I don't mind shifting for good.

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

Sunny, how easy is to procure a new Ford Ikon radiator fan? My car is getting heated again now, running very close to half mark even with AC ON and while doing cruising speeds. Very very unpredictable pattern and most probably would leave at Murugan's place this week.

I was driving in good rains last night on 5th gear and the needle just didn't come down from the 2/3rd levels at all. Have been noticing it in the last 2 drives this week. On the first day return drive, the needle was around 1/3rd inspite of being in the traffic signal / bumper to bumper drive.

Could you let me know what all needs to be checked?

I'm sorry but I don't know the details; it was done by the previous owner. Its a fairly common mod though, few other mechanics I've spoken to told me the same.

I suspect you might have a radiator blockage, I distinctly remember the temp needle plummet whenever I drove through a standing water puddle. If its not happening in your case, there might be some blockage.

As much as I hate saying this, get the thermostat removed and run it for a couple of days to see if it makes a difference.

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

Keeping this as a separate post. I am thinking of getting some of the liqui moly products, could you point as to what all needs to be purchased?

I can only vouch for Radiator Cleaner and Petrol Injector Cleaner from Liqui Moly which have worked well on my car.

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

EDIT :: Any feedback on Liqui Moly 10W 40 engine oil? I have been using Shell HX 7, if Liqui Moly is better, I don't mind shifting for good.

In my opinion, there is nothing better than Motul when it comes to oils. I am against the use of additives, why add additives to mediocre oils when you can get the best?

Search around, you can get Motul 8100 Xcess for 3260rs for 4 liters which is a smashing deal. You doont have to worry about engine oil for the next 15K KMs for sure.

[vrprabhu]

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

... to check the issues.

1. Temperature hitting the half way mark without AC and above 2/3rd level with AC
2. Reduction in coolant level
.....

Turned out that the fans / relays were all fine, but the fan rpm was lower than it should be

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

I suspect you might have a radiator blockage, I distinctly remember the temp needle plummet whenever I drove through a standing water puddle. If its not happening in your case, there might be some blockage

I had similar issues on both my Palios (nv ELX & nv Sport - both 2005 models). In fact, once while driving from Calicut to Bangalore via Waynad Ghat, the temp needle crossed 3/4th mark - this was in rainy season amidst heavy downpour. Turns out that there was a plastic bag stuck to the radiator between the fan and radiator, which probably was the cause. Luckily, could pull it out and things were OK later on.

Later on, when the needle was persistently above half-way mark, got the radiator flushed and things were normal. This happened to both the cards -
and both times, I got the concentrated fluid and mixed mineral water to fill the radiator (instead of going in for ready mix) after flushing. One tip which I got was to check the color of the coolant - if the color is brownish, there is bound to be some rust / dust in the radiator and hence its effectiveness (coolant as well as the radiator) is reduced. Secondly, there is a drop in coolant level in your case - small leakage & block?

Just a stray thought - will this phenomenon be readable in the OBD? Or, could there be faulty sensor (thermostat)?

As you may be aware, the radiator fan has two speed settings - the high speed normally kicks in when AC is switched on or higher engine temp. Ideally, during start it runs at low speed and thereafter, changes speed as per need. And, after long drives, the fan stays on even after we switch off the engine. Suggest a small test, since you have stated the needle is always above half-way mark : after switching off the engine, the fan will continue to run. Once the fan stops, after a couple of minutes, turn only the key on (i.e. don't crank the engine) - at this point, unless you went for a really long drive, the fan won't start again; if it starts (even without the engine running), it points to engine not cooling down sufficiently. (Disclaimer - I was based in Pune, and not subject to hot -> hotter -> hottest climate of Chennai )

[swiftnfurious]

The car has been chugging without any major issues. The drives have been minimal as the office is close to where I stay and parking woes have kept the car mostly in the garage.

After quite a long time, took the car for a long drive to Ambur. Topped up at the Shell with V Power and did the onward journey in 3.5 hours (on 26th morning). Had some run within the town and also to Jalagamparai falls. Came back on Saturday in 2 hours flat and topped up again in Shell Porur with V Power. The car consumed fuel worth 2700/- for a round trip of 460 kms. That makes it around 14 kmpl including highway run at close to 110 kmph and urban run of around 120 odd kms.

I am definitely impressed with the fuel - last time I managed around 14 kmpl in pure highway runs with normal fuel.

However the issue with the temp gauge hitting close to half mark stays. The thermostat was replaced and radiator was flushed with liquimoly. Might have to look at replacing the fan assembly!

[swiftnfurious]

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

...However the issue with the temp gauge hitting close to half mark stays. The thermostat was replaced and radiator was flushed with liquimoly. Might have to look at replacing the fan assembly!

Fellow bhpian hserus introduced me to Speed Bhai for the Palio heating issue. Left the car almost 10 days back for him to check. When I mentioned about the issue, he said it could be due to mud depositing in the radiator and immediately I related to finding muddy coolant when I was in Mumbai.

He has been updating on the progress though it's slow, and has been as below.

• The water pump had leakage & has been replaced
• Says the radiator had issues and looked liked having involved in an accident, but has been serviced. Since I never had an accident (except for the rear end) not sure it happened with any previous owners
• Timing belt seems good
• He says the engine is not smooth and wants to change spark plugs + injector cleaning. Have said yes since I want to be doubly sure he can improvise the current 'feel'

He also wanted to replace the exhaust line & muffler stating it seems to have a leakage - took me a good 10 mins to convince that I have an Automech exhaust and the 'noise' is customer done. Can't really blame him, it did sound similar when I in fact had leakage in the exhaust system which led to Automech exhaust replacement.

Overall around INR 13K quoted so far and will get a completely detailed bill when I take the car back. If there is no perceivable difference in smoothness as he claims, I'll stick to Murugan for further service.

[vrprabhu]

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

However the issue with the temp gauge hitting close to half mark stays. The thermostat was replaced and radiator was flushed with liquimoly.

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

Says the radiator had issues and looked liked having involved in an accident, but has been serviced.

When you did the flush, did you clean out the coolant reservoir also? I found that it has a lot of sediments left over, which can mess up with the replaced coolant.

I was told that there could be possible airlock leading to non-circulation of the coolant (to flush, the hose at the top of the radiator was removed, contrary to my belief that the bottom one needs to be disconnected for cleaning - it seems that the bottom end of the radiator is the inlet and the top end is the outlet, and it is better to let the flushing to take place from the top).

Did you check the pressure build up in the reservoir coolant while idling (after flushing?) A proper circulation will cause pressure build up and by slowly unscrewing the cap, the coolant will flow out of the reservoir. After shutting down and allowing the engine to cool, the coolant level in the reservoir would fall down, which needs to be topped up. (Better this is checked overnight for a couple of days)

[swiftnfurious]

Originally Posted by vrprabhu

When you did the flush, did you clean out the coolant reservoir also?...

Did you check the pressure build up in the reservoir coolant while idling (after flushing?) A proper circulation will cause pressure build up and by slowly unscrewing the cap, the coolant will flow out of the reservoir....

Yes - both these were done. Since I did the flushing after my regular service, had to replace the coolant again. During flushing, normal water was used.