[DudeWithaFiat]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Probably needs a gas top up. Check the gas pressure and for any AC system leaks. Also check the serpentine belt for any damage.

Originally Posted by honeybee

I am just hazarding a guess here: can you get the condenser checked and cleaned if possible/needed?

When the car is in motion the condenser, situated right next to the radiator, receives a blow of fresh airfrom the front grill. This air cools the refrigerant down from gas to liquid, which in turn flows back to the cabin, absorbs the heat and turns into gas again.

At speeds of 40kmph the airflow will increase and will cool the refrigerant down as expected, but at low speeds it might not be sufficient to do so.

So maybe the condenser needs a look.

Thanks all.

So, about the AC, did look at the condenser and radiator area and they look clean. I took the car to 'Cool Cars' near Phoenix MarketCity in Pune after I saw 100s of very good google reviews. They looked at the car, said the entire AC 'system' has to be replaced. Gave me a quote of 40k. I said no, citing budget reasons. They were insisting (upto the point of a 2 or 3 mechs from Cool Cars calling me on phone and insisting on changing it.). When they handed over the car to me, the 'main' guy said I should consider changing the entire AC as early as possible because the problem that they see with the condenser (in their words, entire oil has gone black) could even stall the car when running). I don't trust them anymore.

Originally Posted by vigsom

At standstill, are you able to see better cooling with the engine running at, say, 2000rpm?If yes, then your system could be on slightly low refrigerant charge.

Yes Yes. Later I noticed is that the AC is blowing cold air not because of the running speed, but at high RPM. So, even at idle, AC blows cold air if I press the accelerator to 1.5-2k RPM. I don't buy what the 'Cool Car' guys said. Worst case, how much does it cost to replace the entire AC?

Low refrigerant: When the car was with the 'Cool Cars' they said they re-filled the refrigerant.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by DudeWithaFiat

So, about the AC, did look at the condenser and radiator area and they look clean. I took the car to 'Cool Cars' near Phoenix MarketCity in Pune after I see very 100s of very good google reviews.

Please note, reviews can be literally "manufactured" to show good or bad. I have seen it for myself. Don't have full faith in online reviews. A good review is nice but not a guarantee.

They looked at the car, said the entire AC 'system' is done and it has to be replaced. Gave me a quote of 40k. I said no citing budget reasons. When they handed over the car to me, the 'main' guy said I should consider changing the entire AC as early as possible because the problem that they see with the condenser (in their words, entire oil has gone black) could even stall the car when running).

Low refrigerant: When the car was with the 'Cool Cars' they said they re-filled the refrigerant.

My guess is you have a leak in the system or a faulty compressor. Leaks are generally hard to trace and fix. It is best you got the car checked at the ASC Shaw Toyota for a true assessment of the problem. I know of a very good car AC repair shop at Wanowrie but cannot recollect the name. They are very honest and will do a good job. I'll revert ASAP with the name and contact.

[honeybee]

It always makes economic sense to troubleshoot each component, but it will take time and a good AC mechanic. It certainly shouldn't warrant replacing the entire AC system.

[asit.kulkarni93]

Update

Nowadays the car isn't used regularly as dad has a car from his office and my brother has office transport. Mostly it does 2Kms/day wherein my dad drops my brother to his bus stop. Rest it's used within the city. But this weekend was different. I could take a day off and dad was on leave too. So we decided to head to nasik. Before the trip, I decided to change the tyres and went ahead with 205/55 R15's Continental MC5. On Saturday morning took the car to kasara ghat to experience the grip and I am mighty impressed. Being used to the stiff suspension setup on the figo, the better tyres & comfortable suspension on the Corolla feels heavenly. If it's more than 2 people travelling we prefer taking the Corolla otherwise its the figo. The car is at 97k Kms now. Attaching a few pics.


Tyre change at Saran tyres, Paud road.

The conti MC5's

Enroute Kasara ghat

Returning from the ghat

[DudeWithaFiat]

Due to the frequent niggles, my 2006 Corolla is up on OLX now, selling for whatever price I get - with a full disclosure of the car's condition.

Niggles:

1) AC seem to have gotten serviced by a very impatience mechanic - I see the flaps inside the AC vents twisted and broken.

2) AC throws cold air only at rpms above 1300.

3) Only the driver side power window works nicely. The rear ones are too slow and sometimes get stuck. The passenger side's power window's does not work.

4) Windscreen is scratchy. Difficult to drive in the night.

5) Headlights are pointed way too down. Sharayu Toyota said it cannot be set correctly since the headlights are not originals and has been replaced by non-OEM replica.

6) Bad body work (when you look closely) at driver side doors.

7) Cheap chinese tyres.

8) A Mumbai buyer preferred since NOC won't be an issue.

Good things:
--------------
1) I had replaced spark plugs at Sharayu toyota recently.
2) Car is very powerful and drives nicely, despite the above niggles.
3) Central locking and power mirrors work.
4) Interiors are very neat.

Its a 2006 1.8E H2.

[Meccanico]

Our H2 will complete 13 years next month. Just above 85k on the odo and still going solid. The power is surprisingly still there. I love this car too much. One of the last good looking Corollas in my opinion.



We really need to go for a drive when Im back, @asit.kulkarni93

[ashwinprakas]

Got my hands on a 2003 Toyota Corolla 1.8E for 1.85 Lakhs, she's pristine at 55k on the odo and the previous owner(passed away) was an enthusiast who took exceptionally good care of the car, that is until maintained by his family which is evident from the Chinese tires on all 4 wheels.



The car has been practically unused since 2015 IIRC, hence hoping to change the following;

1. Air Filter.
2. Spark Plugs.
3. Steering Fluid.
4. Brake Fluid.
5. Engine Oil and Filter.
6. Gear Oil.
7. Brake Pads.
8. Cabin Filter.

This is all that comes to mind, do share details if I'm missing something.

The car is splendid to drive, does 100 kmph @ 3000 RPM.

Speaking of which the Tacho tends to get stuck at times, not always but at times, the rest of the speedo unit works flawlessly.



Minor wobble at slow speed, presumably due to the tires being last changed in 2015 and the car being left idle since.

Currently sporting an Amaron battery that was replaced at the same time, but due to lack of use there is some drop with the blower at full and the HL on on High beams,

This is with the engine off, but volts drop by 0.01 every 5 seconds.



With the motor running and blower and HL still ON I get this;



Which seems to be steady so I guess I have some time before scrapping the old one.

Next query I have is with the remote, this is what came with the car;



The largest button Locks and Unlocks the car, the rest doesn't seem to do anything in spite of the light on the unit blinking, the unit seems to be made by 'Vision'.

And finally, how do we adjust back support? I've tried pulling the lever and pushing the backrest but nothing happens.

So that's all for now, please do share your thoughts.

Thanks in Advance,
A.P.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Got my hands on a 2003 Toyota Corolla 1.8E for 1.85 Lakhs, she's pristine at 55k on the odo and the previous owner(passed away) was an enthusiast who took exceptionally good care of the car, that is until maintained by his family which is evident from the Chinese tires on all 4 wheels.

Other than the above, please test for clutch plate slippage. Frankly, most older folks tend to slip the clutch instead of changing the gear. And yeah, get rid of the Chinese rubber junk. Any Jap, Indian, EU, tyre brand will do better.

A heads-up that GB oil is expensive, really expensive. So don't change it unless there has been a leak. Spark plugs - replace them with Denso Iridium from Toyota. They are the best and this is advice is from someone who tried NGK Iridium and chucked them in the dustbin after using genuine spares.

Also, the battery needs a load test and an alternator test too. A Corolla, like nearly all other Toyota vehicles, is more or less bulletproof unless it is very badly abused. Please take the car to the dealer to check for any airbag inflator recalls/replacements. Ditto for driver side power window switches.

Best oil for the 1ZZ-FE? Amsoil Signature but in the really hot climes of Southern India (KL) you could use Motul xCess 5W-40 or Shell Helix Ultra. Do not compromise on the oil filter, get a Denso from Toyota's dealer.

[GTO]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Got my hands on a 2003 Toyota Corolla 1.8E for 1.85 Lakhs

Your car looks just like Moderator Aditya's pre-worshipped Corolla which is serving him well. Congrats!

1. Air Filter.
2. Spark Plugs.
3. Steering Fluid.
4. Brake Fluid.
5. Engine Oil and Filter.
6. Gear Oil.
7. Brake Pads.
8. Cabin Filter.

Yeah, best to change ALL lubes on an unused car. Please also put your car through my maintenance checklist at this list (Maintain the car yourself. A service checklist).

Minor wobble at slow speed, presumably due to the tires being last changed in 2015 and the car being left idle since.

Just check that the tyre hasn't gotten damaged from standing in one place for 4 years.

What you need is a good + expert mechanic who will spend some time with your car bringing her up to shape.

[thoma]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Got my hands on a 2003 Toyota Corolla

Nice example of a pre-worshipped variant. The Corolla and most Toyota can last forever if taken moderate to good care.

Hope the car was re-registered last year, as it would have completed 15yrs.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Other than the above, please test for clutch plate slippage. Frankly, most older folks tend to slip the clutch instead of changing the gear.

RPM's are steady under load, there doesn't seem to be any shooting up, drove her from TVM to KLM(60 km's) yesterday midnight to confirm.

Though a breeze to drive I did notice some humming, not exactly sure if the wheel bearings are to blame or the tires alone.

And yeah, get rid of the Chinese rubber junk. Any Jap, Indian, EU, tyre brand will do better.

Junk indeed, the fact that the car doesn't come with ABS took me by surprise, as the brakes are pretty sharp, even when compared to my Zen Estilo, such that when braking even moderately fast the front breaks traction and makes a lot of noise, the only upside here is that the car doesn't pull to one side.

A heads-up that GB oil is expensive, really expensive. So don't change it unless there has been a leak.

There are '0' oil leaks, the only leak I could notice is condensed water dripping when the AC is in full blast.

Hence as advised I'd go with changing the fluid at the 60k mark as recommended by the manufacturer.

Though a bit curious on why it is crazy expensive? I was under the assumption that gear oil was cheaper than engine oil.

Spark plugs - replace them with Denso Iridium from Toyota. They are the best and this is advice is from someone who tried NGK Iridium and chucked them in the dustbin after using genuine spares.

On searching for the plugs online I did notice that Denso plugs are available on Bodomo and are priced cheaper than the OEM plugs, which I feel is strange.

DENSO K16R-U11 @ Rs.189

OEM Replacement by Toyota @ Rs.317

What's even confusing is that on Googling I came on a Toyota link that said spark plugs are to be replaced at 1,00,000 km's intervals, which I feel is crazy high, please do advice as my experience with Suzuki's might be clouding my judgement.

Also, the battery needs a load test and an alternator test too. A Corolla, like nearly all other Toyota vehicles, is more or less bulletproof unless it is very badly abused. Please take the car to the dealer to check for any airbag inflator recalls/replacements. Ditto for driver side power window switches.

Best oil for the 1ZZ-FE? Amsoil Signature but in the really hot climes of Southern India (KL) you could use Motul xCess 5W-40 or Shell Helix Ultra. Do not compromise on the oil filter, get a Denso from Toyota's dealer.

Thank you Sir, would take her to the ASC for an evaluation on the said components.

Would try to source Shell Helix Ultra as I believe it is the easiest to source here, at how may km's would you suggest I change the engine oil for best results?

Originally Posted by GTO

Your car looks just like Moderator Aditya's pre-worshipped Corolla which is serving him well. Congrats!

Thank you for the kind words Sir, I hope she runs fine under my care as well.

Yeah, best to change ALL lubes on an unused car. Please also put your car through my maintenance checklist at this list (Maintain the car yourself. A service checklist).

Had no idea such a thread existed, thanks for directing me to it. I see that there are quite a lot of things I seem to have overlooked.

Just check that the tyre hasn't gotten damaged from standing in one place for 4 years.

There are no visible damages and the tire does seem to look pretty good visually, but the grip as expected is pathetic and dangerous.

There is slight wobble at low speeds, which over the phone my usual FNG suggested might be due to tires going bad from the car sitting idle.

What you need is a good + expert mechanic who will spend some time with your car bringing her up to shape.

Indeed, just confused between FNG and A.S.S at the moment as I'm yet to receive a proper review of the A.S.S at Kollam which is being run by Nippon Toyota.

Fingers Crossed!

Originally Posted by thoma

Nice example of a pre-worshipped variant. The Corolla and most Toyota can last forever if taken moderate to good care.

Thank you Sir for the kind words, I'm counting on the same.

Hope the car was re-registered last year, as it would have completed 15yrs.

Indeed, in 2018.

She needs to be retested in 2023.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

RPM's are steady under load, there doesn't seem to be any shooting up, drove her from TVM to KLM(60 km's) yesterday midnight to confirm.

Though a breeze to drive I did notice some humming, not exactly sure if the wheel bearings are to blame or the tires alone.

My guess would be tyre rolling noise. To test the bearings take it to a FNG and have the car hoisted and rotate the wheels.

Junk indeed, the fact that the car doesn't come with ABS took me by surprise, as the brakes are pretty sharp, even when compared to my Zen Estilo, such that when braking even moderately fast the front breaks traction and makes a lot of noise, the only upside here is that the car doesn't pull to one side.

It is not fair to compare the Zen to the Corolla which comes with disc brakes on all 4 wheels. ABS was introduced starting with the 2005 mid-life refresh.

There are '0' oil leaks, the only leak I could notice is condensed water dripping when the AC is in full blast. Hence as advised I'd go with changing the fluid at the 60k mark as recommended by the manufacturer.

I do not remember the manual of the 9G model now but AFAIK they use lifetime GB lube. However, if the manual specifies change at 60K please do so.

I got a quote of approx 7-8K for a GB oil change at the dealership. This is more than 2x of what I paid for LM 75W-90 GL4+ synthetic GB oil. You can use this or Redline MT90 both synthetics but expensive. The alternative is Motul 75W-90 GL4+ which is a semi-synthetic. Please check the manual for the correct grade and type. I believe the car can take either GL4 or GL5 but stick to GL4 to be on the safe side.

Though a bit curious on why it is crazy expensive? I was under the assumption that gear oil was cheaper than engine oil.

Not really, GB synthetic oil @ approx 1500-2000/litre, depending on brand, is more expensive per litre than synthetic engine oil which normally goes for 900-1200/litre.

On searching for the plugs online I did notice that Denso plugs are available on Bodomo and are priced cheaper than the OEM plugs, which I feel is strange.

Those are standard plugs and are inexpensive but last for 40K kms. Toyota Denso Iridium plugs are about Rs 1000/each. An NGK Iridium is about 800 IIRC. Please check for the latest prices as my purchase of these plugs was back in 2009, a decade ago.

What's even confusing is that on Googling I came on a Toyota link that said spark plugs are to be replaced at 1,00,000 km's intervals, which I feel is crazy high, please do advice as my experience with Suzuki's might be clouding my judgement.

That replacement interval applies to Iridium plugs only. Standard plugs are replaced at 40K kms.

Also, when replacing plugs make sure:

a) You never drop the igniters i.e. the coil on plug high tension coils
b) Use a torque wrench when tightening the plugs. Torque is 25 N-m/18 ft-lb. Make sure the plugs are installed correctly preferably by an experienced technician. DO NOT cross thread or overtighten because if the aluminium head is damaged it will cost you big time.
c) Get the correct spark plug whether Ir or standard

Would try to source Shell Helix Ultra as I believe it is the easiest to source here, at how may km's would you suggest I change the engine oil for best results?

I get my SHU supply from Amazon and prior to that my local Shell oil distributor. You can also buy Motul xCess on Amazon. Drain interval is 10K kms or 1 year whichever comes first regardless of whether you use mineral or synthetic.

If on a budget try Shell Helix HX7 semi synthetic 10W-40 really good and VFM. Castrol Magnatec, Idemitsu, Liqui Moly, Mobil and Motul also offer oils in this price range.

PS - When was the coolant replaced last? I'd suggest a coolant flush if the previous replacement was done >5 years ago. Only use Toyota's pink SLLC coolant. No after market stuff here.

[Swapnil4585]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

The car has been practically unused since 2015 IIRC, hence hoping to change the following;

1. Air Filter.
2. Spark Plugs.
3. Steering Fluid.
4. Brake Fluid.
5. Engine Oil and Filter.
6. Gear Oil.
7. Brake Pads.
8. Cabin Filter.

So that's all for now, please do share your thoughts.

Thanks in Advance,
A.P.

Congratulations. That indeed would be a bullet proof Toyota.

Apart from the list above, and apart from the change of tyres, please also get the electronics (wiring, fuses, etc) checked thoroughly.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Swapnil4585

Congratulations. That indeed would be a bullet proof Toyota.

Apart from the list above, and apart from the change of tyres, please also get the electronics (wiring, fuses, etc) checked thoroughly.

Indeed, have handed her over to my trusted FNG as I was not getting decent reviews about the ASC at my place.

Since the shop has a rap of fixing premium segment machines, even though their quality of work is not up to par with my expectations, I'm still fine with handing her over as from claims they seem to be leagues ahead of the ASC in my town.

Lets hope for the best.

Originally Posted by R2D2

My guess would be tyre rolling noise. To test the bearings take it to a FNG and have the car hoisted and rotate the wheels.

After having a look FNG confirmed it to be both, tires are at fault and there's bearing hum from the rear.

It is not fair to compare the Zen to the Corolla which comes with disc brakes on all 4 wheels. ABS was introduced starting with the 2005 mid-life refresh.

Forget the Zen(G10B), I was comparing my Zen Estilo(F10D) with it and I have to say after handing over the Corolla and going back to the F10D I literally felt as though its brakes felt like they were made of wood, the difference was just staring me in the face.

The Corolla seems to have spoiled me for an all-round disk setup.

I do not remember the manual of the 9G model now but AFAIK they use lifetime GB lube. However, if the manual specifies change at 60K please do so.

FNG Mentioned that the life is 1,00,000 km's, but since the car is over 15 years old we're going ahead with the change.

I got a quote of approx 7-8K for a GB oil change at the dealership. This is more than 2x of what I paid for LM 75W-90 GL4+ synthetic GB oil. You can use this or Redline MT90 both synthetics but expensive. The alternative is Motul 75W-90 GL4+ which is a semi-synthetic. Please check the manual for the correct grade and type. I believe the car can take either GL4 or GL5 but stick to GL4 to be on the safe side.

Would do, have conveyed the same to FNG.

On another note, you were spot on about the clutch, it does need to be changed. The first thing the FNG asked is whether the car was driven by an aged person.

The clutch would also be replaced, they said they'd get back to me with a list of suppliers and I could finalize after confirming(here) that the component is reliable.

Those are standard plugs and are inexpensive but last for 40K kms. Toyota Denso Iridium plugs are about Rs 1000/each. An NGK Iridium is about 800 IIRC. Please check for the latest prices as my purchase of these plugs was back in 2009, a decade ago.

The FNG is pushing Bosch plugs claiming to have good results which is something I can't argue with as both the G10B, F10D and every other vehicle I've referred is using Bosch components, but said they were fine if I insist on OEM Plugs.

That replacement interval applies to Iridium plugs only. Standard plugs are replaced at 40K kms.

If the 40k regular plugs would need readjustment and cleaning then I'm fine with replacing them at 10k intervals, never really could digest putting in a plug after readjusting the clearance, simply too much risk to safe a couple of pennies in comparison.

Also, when replacing plugs make sure:

a) You never drop the igniters i.e. the coil on plug high tension coils
b) Use a torque wrench when tightening the plugs. Torque is 25 N-m/18 ft-lb. Make sure the plugs are installed correctly preferably by an experienced technician. DO NOT cross thread or overtighten because if the aluminium head is damaged it will cost you big time.
c) Get the correct spark plug whether Ir or standard

Aye Aye Captain!

Have shared the exact specifics to the FNG, will go over with my Torque Wrench, which coincidentally has a max reading of 25nm.

I get my SHU supply from Amazon and prior to that my local Shell oil distributor. You can also buy Motul xCess on Amazon. Drain interval is 10K kms or 1 year whichever comes first regardless of whether you use mineral or synthetic.

If on a budget try Shell Helix HX7 semi synthetic 10W-40 really good and VFM. Castrol Magnatec, Idemitsu, Liqui Moly, Mobil and Motul also offer oils in this price range.

Mobil seems to be readily available in 10W30 and 10W40, have insisted on 10W40, though deep down my heart wants me to go for a 20W50 grade oil, not going to push it as I hear VVA's depend on their recommended viscosity to work well.

PS - When was the coolant replaced last? I'd suggest a coolant flush if the previous replacement was done >5 years ago. Only use Toyota's pink SLLC coolant. No after market stuff here.

No clue, hence coolant would be replaced this time.

Have shared the coolant details with FNG.

Have brake fluid and pads would be replaced, the Hydraulic Steering fluid is good as per the FNG hence would keep it.

Would update more details once brought to my notice.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

After having a look FNG confirmed it to be both, tires are at fault and there's bearing hum from the rear.

If on a budget consider MRF or Apollo. Bridgestone, Continental and of course Michelin are premium products.

Forget the Zen(G10B), I was comparing my Zen Estilo(F10D) with it and I have to say after handing over the Corolla and going back to the F10D I literally felt as though its brakes felt like they were made of wood, the difference was just staring me in the face. The Corolla seems to have spoiled me for an all-round disk setup.

Hint - the Altis brakes are even better than 9G's. IIRC in the Altis the rear discs' friction surface and pads are larger. Yep, once you have all discs on all 4 wheels disc + drum feels like a compromise of sorts.

On another note, you were spot on about the clutch, it does need to be changed. The first thing the FNG asked is whether the car was driven by an aged person. The clutch would also be replaced, they said they'd get back to me with a list of suppliers and I could finalize after confirming(here) that the component is reliable.

Depending on how long the owner intends to keep the car I believe it is best to get the genuine Toyota part.

The FNG is pushing Bosch plugs claiming to have good results which is something I can't argue with as both the G10B, F10D and every other vehicle I've referred is using Bosch components, but said they were fine if I insist on OEM Plugs.

No Bosch..only Denso or NGK. Trust me on this.

If the 40k regular plugs would need readjustment and cleaning then I'm fine with replacing them at 10k intervals, never really could digest putting in a plug after readjusting the clearance, simply too much risk to safe a couple of pennies in comparison.

Plugs come pre-gapped and rarely need readjustment. If you buy standard Denso - fit and forget for 40K kms, if Denso Ir 100,000 km.

Mobil seems to be readily available in 10W30 and 10W40, have insisted on 10W40, though deep down my heart wants me to go for a 20W50 grade oil, not going to push it as I hear VVA's depend on their recommended viscosity to work well.

Optimal VVT performance depends on oil viscosity so please ensure you use 15W-40 or 10W-40. Don't use 20W-50 because it affects fuel efficiency.

No clue, hence coolant would be replaced this time.

OEM pink coolant is premixed so no need to dilute with water. If using aftermarket please do not use well/bore well water or similar. Ideal is distilled or de-ionised water. OEM coolant takes the guessing and risk out so that is highly recommended.

Have brake fluid and pads would be replaced

Default brake fluid is DOT3, you can use DOT4 as well. It would be best to flush the entire system thoroughly in the following sequence - rear left, rear right, front left, front right.

Good luck. Do let us know how it goes.