[Sunny_7937]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Upgraded to Iridium Plugs: Suzuki puts Denso Iridium ZXU20PR11 plugs in some K Series Engines abroad, specially Japan, UAE and UK.
====
Price I paid for each plug, including shipping: Rs. 724
Total Cost: Rs. 2,896

Good afternoon dear Shashi, I tried searching by the part number for these Denso spark plugs but couldn't get it on boodmo. Could you please send a link from when u got it for ur XL. Thanks in advance.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by Sunny_7937

Good afternoon dear Shashi, I tried searching by the part number for these Denso spark plugs but couldn't get it on boodmo. Could you please send a link from when u got it for ur XL. Thanks in advance.

Unfortunately, it's out of stock at most places, or available at ridiculous prices now. Best skipped. Stick to the stock plugs.

Regards,
Shashi

[drsarao]

I may have to leave my car for ~3 months in a society open parking lot.
It is Grey AT Alpha+.

What are the precautions to be taken?

What I could gather from scouring the web:

1. Fill Petrol tank completely.
2. Service and oil change.
3. Check & top up brake, coolant, wiper fluids.
4. Tyre pressure to 45 PSI?? (I received the new car with 50 PSI!)
5. Charge Hybrid battery to 5 bars.
6. Wrap wiper blades in cloth.
7. Parking brake to off.
8. Neutral gear position??
9. Open the bonnet, lock the car and then disconnect negative battery terminal and wrap it in polythene. Close the bonnet.
10. Cover the car with water proof cover and use ties under the chassis to fix it.

Please suggest what will be optimum including any additional points.

[Asking somebody to start the car for 15 minutes every 2 weeks and check tyre pressure is probably an ideal solution.]

Thanks.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by drsarao

I may have to leave my car for ~3 months in a society open parking lot.
It is Grey AT Alpha+.

What are the precautions to be taken?

What I could gather from scouring the web:

1. Fill Petrol tank completely.
2. Service and oil change.
3. Check & top up brake, coolant, wiper fluids.
4. Tyre pressure to 45 PSI?? (I received the new car with 50 PSI!)
5. Charge Hybrid battery to 5 bars.
6. Wrap wiper blades in cloth.
7. Parking brake to off.
8. Neutral gear position??
9. Open the bonnet, lock the car and then disconnect negative battery terminal and wrap it in polythene. Close the bonnet.
10. Cover the car with water proof cover and use ties under the chassis to fix it.

Please suggest what will be optimum including any additional points.

[Asking somebody to start the car for 15 minutes every 2 weeks and check tyre pressure is probably an ideal solution.]

Thanks.

My XL6 has faced this a couple of times and here is what I'll do:

1. Get it cleaned inside out. Put charcoal packets/silica gel sachets etc inside to avoid any foul smell/humidity buildup. If you can, get the car waxed, and interiors like leather seats and dashboard dressed up too. Will help the surfaces endure wear better.

2. Fill tyres to 45 PSI

3. If the engine oil has turned black, better get it changed.

4. Don't fully fill the fuel tank, ours is a plastic tank and won't corrode. If anything, give the vapour inside sufficient volume to expand.

5. Your biggest challenge is to save it from rodents and animals. Hang tobacco and camphor pouches on inner side of all wheels. Imagine yourself being a rat and see what trajectory you'll take to reach the engine bay. While at it, also procure a 3M rodent spray from Amazon and spray generously inside wheel wells and lower part of engine bay to discourage the rat from getting inside. Rats hate clean areas and hence I had recommended cleaning your car comprehensively before parking.

6. Ensure your fresh air vent of HVAC is closed and mode is at recirculation.

7. If you have, put sunshades and windshield shades all around. It saves the cabin and leather inside from getting too hot and deteriorating. An additional external cover outside will then help tremendously.

8. Avoid parking it near any trees.

9. Release the handbrake but keep the transmission in P mode.

10. Wrapping the blades in cotton cloth will be good.

11. Try to achieve 5 bars in Li Ion before parking. If you are disconnecting the main terminals, then no point asking someone to start it every 15 days. IMO it can easily last 3 months of idle in that condition.

12. Tyre pressure doesn't drop that drastically unless your Tyre has a puncture. Frequent checkups can be ignored.

Will add to this in case anything comes to my mind.

Regards,
Shashi

[drsarao]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

My XL6 has faced this a couple of times and here is what I'll do:

Thanks Leoshashi,

I was in fact researching 3M anti-rodent just now.
Camphor and tobacco is good advice - I heard the Nexa service guy also suggest it. I will add naphthalene balls also for good measure. Should I put some in Engine bay too?

Thanks for clearing my doubt about whether it is a plastic or metal fuel tank. Somebody on net suggested filling half tank of Speed 97 petrol which has additives to prevent clogging. What do you think?

Another advise was to put double outside covers. But putting sunshades inside and cover outside will be better probably.

I understand the seat covers are faux leather. Any point spraying with anti fungal?

My car is due for the 10K service so oil change will happen anyways.

Since the tyres are new, I was not too worried about over filling to 45 PSI. But thanks for reconfirming it.

Where exactly are the fresh air vents of HVAC located?

Some wise guy also suggested sealing intake and exhaust pipes. Comment?

Thanks again for the prompt reply.

It is good to have you as the man to go-to for all things XL6.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by drsarao

Thanks Leoshashi,

Apologies for delayed reply, hope it's still relevant.

I was in fact researching 3M anti-rodent just now.
Camphor and tobacco is good advice - I heard the Nexa service guy also suggest it. I will add naphthalene balls also for good measure. Should I put some in Engine bay too?

Yes won't harm, as long as you don't drive the car with those hanging around. When car is parked, every such effort helps.

Thanks for clearing my doubt about whether it is a plastic or metal fuel tank. Somebody on net suggested filling half tank of Speed 97 petrol which has additives to prevent clogging. What do you think?

3 month period is too less for any clogging.

I understand the seat covers are faux leather. Any point spraying with anti fungal?

Not now. Leather conditioner is what I recommend which will prevent any degradation from heat buildup. Anti Fungal may further degrade leather.

Where exactly are the fresh air vents of HVAC located?

Cowl

Some wise guy also suggested sealing intake and exhaust pipes. Comment?

Won't harm anything significant even if rat gets inside those holes.

Regards,
Shashi

[drsarao]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Apologies for delayed reply, hope it's still relevant.

Not now. Leather conditioner is what I recommend which will prevent any degradation from heat buildup. Anti Fungal may further degrade leather.

Cowl

Regards,
Shashi

Trip is still months in future - so very much relevant.

Leather conditioner - Mr Leather or Formula 1 or something else?

Some internet videos show covering the HVAC vent in the cowl with metal mesh in a Wagon R. I will consider it if I find rodent shit in cabin air filter!

Haven't figured out MultiQuote yet. So clustering.

Thanks & Regards,
drsarao

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by drsarao

Leather conditioner - Mr Leather or Formula 1 or something else?

I use Turtle Wax Luxe Leather for quick maintenance and Meguiar's Ultimate Leather balm for more comprehensive one. Considering VFM and ease of application, Turtle Wax is the way to go IMO.

Regarding fresh air intake, if the rodent has reached air filter, it may not stop only at excretion there. It can very easily bite through it and cause havoc inside cabin. Hence please get the mesh installed at the earliest. Refer to my post on page 10 on it.

Regards,
Shashi

[drsarao]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

I use Turtle Wax Luxe Leather for quick maintenance and Meguiar's Ultimate Leather balm for more comprehensive one. Considering VFM and ease of application, Turtle Wax is the way to go IMO.

Regarding fresh air intake, if the rodent has reached air filter, it may not stop only at excretion there. It can very easily bite through it and cause havoc inside cabin. Hence please get the mesh installed at the earliest. Refer to my post on page 10 on it.

Regards,
Shashi

Thanks.

Ordered https://www.amazon.in/Turtle-Wax-Lea...=1&ext_vrnc=hi


Haven't seen the rat shit in air filter yet!
But thanks for the link to page 10. Not many pix but I get the idea. Will try to do a preventive mesh transplant this weekend. Will holler if I get stuck.

Regards,
drsarao

[shandilyapiyush]

Hey! I'm not very sure if this is the right thread, but having read Leoshashi sir's threads for a while now, I think this is the best place to post regarding my 2013 Ertiga VXi.

I recently noticed upon checking the cars service history that the ASC that services our car have been filling it with 5w40(shell, castrol) fully synthetic since the first oil change. The recommended oil grade is 5w30 in my user manual and no other alternatives are mentioned, 5w30 is the only recommended grade. The car has clocked over 80k on the odo now. Timely services every 10k km or a year whichever is sooner has been carried out. No mechanical issues on the car so far.

- My doubt is, should I switch back to 5w30 at the earliest or continue running the car
on 5w40?

- Would the long running on 5w40 have harmed my engine in anyway? (engine is very
smooth to drive, no complaints).

- Will switching back to 5w30 harm the engine now that the engine has 80k+ km, would
the tolerances within the engine have increased?

- Or would the switch to 5w30 oil have a noticeable change in terms of better
acceleration and improved FE numbers? Planning to carry my own oil - Shell Helix HX8
5w30 fully synthetic for the next service. Would that be a good choice or should i go
for Castrol Edge 5w30? There's almost a price difference of Rs 1,400 between the two.

- Should I write to MSIL or is too late for that now?

All inputs are highly appreciated.

Thank you,
Piyush.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by shandilyapiyush

Hey! I'm not very sure if this is the right thread, but having read Leoshashi sir's threads for a while now, I think this is the best place to post regarding my 2013 Ertiga VXi.

I'd say stick to the current grade and ensure fully synthetic is used. Coming back to 5W30 may create issues. Hence better to be on the safe side.

But do write to Maruti with proofs and ensure the erring dealer is taken to task, don't let them go without action.

******************** *********************

In some other news, the XL6 gets lamps and trim from newer XL6. A friend had upgraded to Taiwanese Matrix lamps on his Brand new XL6 and I got to try these. My older set will remain with me and I may go back to original later if I ever wish.

Also completed 38k on the Odo, the car is limited to city runs only:

[shandilyapiyush]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

I'd say stick to the current grade and ensure fully synthetic is used. Coming back to 5W30 may create issues. Hence better to be on the safe side.

Thank you for the reply.
Would the engine feel noticeably more responsive and eager if I switch back to 5W30?
What issues should I expect if I switch back to 5W30? Would it increase engine wear? (The odo stands at 80k+) Hence, would coming back to 5W30 be a big 'NO'?

Is 5W40 causing huge harm to the engine?

Also I'm not sure if this is the right thread if this discussion were to prolong, I'd request a link or suggestion where I could continue if I had anything more to ask on the same topic.

Thank you,
Piyush

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by shandilyapiyush

Thank you for the reply.
Would the engine feel noticeably more responsive and eager if I switch back to 5W30?

A bit, yes. But I personally wouldn't recommend coming back to W30 oil now when your car has lived all it's life on 5w40 oil. I'm not a big fan of changing the viscosity numbers, specially the one applicable for higher temperatures.

You may switch to 5W30 if you wish, and see if you notice increased clatter/other mechanical noises, increased consumption/leaks. Benefits you may be looking at are slightly responsive engine and better FE. I am using "may" because the situation you are in, there are way too many variables and it's difficult to predict something unless one speaks only about theoretical stuff. Since your car is a bit old and 80k run, this change may cause a few issues like increased oil consumption, increased clatter and there may be slight leaks from critical oil seals(10 years/80k is a long time).

Would it increase engine wear?

No

Is 5W40 causing huge harm to the engine?

Again, No.

Also I'm not sure if this is the right thread if this discussion were to prolong, I'd request a link or suggestion where I could continue if I had anything more to ask on the same topic.

This (ARTICLE: Synthetic oil vs Mineral oil) is an excellent thread for such queries.

[shandilyapiyush]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

A bit, yes. But I personally wouldn't recommend coming back to W30 oil now when your car has lived all it's life on 5w40 oil. I'm not a big fan of changing the viscosity numbers, specially the one applicable for higher temperatures.

You may switch to 5W30 if you wish, and see if you notice increased clatter/other mechanical noises, increased consumption/leaks. Benefits you may be looking at are slightly responsive engine and better FE. I am using "may" because the situation you are in, there are way too many variables and it's difficult to predict something unless one speaks only about theoretical stuff. Since your car is a bit old and 80k run, this change may cause a few issues like increased oil consumption, increased clatter and there may be slight leaks from critical oil seals(10 years/80k is a long time).

This (ARTICLE: Synthetic oil vs Mineral oil) is an excellent thread for such queries.

Since I have no particular issues with how the engine is running now, I'll probably just stick to w40 oil. Switching to a w30 oil and then if I do encounter what you've mentioned, it would probably only ruin my peace of mind knowing very well that the engine had no issues before switching back to 5w30.

My further queries and other discussions regarding the this topic was posted and continued on the thread you linked.

Thanks a lot for your replies Leoshashi!

[saurabh041086]

Originally Posted by shandilyapiyush

- My doubt is, should I switch back to 5w30 at the earliest or continue running the car
on 5w40?

Is this pre facelift model which has recommended grade as 5W30? Currently service centres are pushing 0w16 for my Nov 2022 XL6, which i am somewhat uncomfortable with in scorching summers of Delhi.