[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by balenoed_

I think Supremebaleno is mentioning about ignition coils. I have also placed an order for a pair of it (some 1100-1300/- is what I remember they told over phone). Please correct it Shashi.

Your quoted price is incorrect. Kindly check my MGP thread, have replied just now.

Regards,
Shashi

[Sophomore]

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

After all the work was done, the engine was started and let run till the radiator fan kicked in. And then we noticed coolant leak from where the plastic top of the radiator meets the metal radiator.

Could be an effect of the car running overheated without coolant after the coolant drained off from the rusted thermostat-housing.

For now, since a new radiator wasn't available, this has been MSeal-ed off.

Originally Posted by balenoed_

I think you are talking about the radiator top tank.

So far it is okay, but I would like to change the radiator itself after a while.

Even I was facing the same issue with the radiator top tank leakage. Finally I got the radiator replaced couple of months back which came around 5k.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...ml#post4644054 (Maruti Genuine Parts (MGP) Catalog: Post your queries here (model list on Pg 1))

[supremeBaleno]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

I have seen your query on the MGP thread, what do you mean by ignitors?

Sorry for the confusion. That's what the mechanic called it, so I assumed that's the name. See attached pic.


And the radiator leak MSeal-ed off.

[balenoed_]

Yes, Shashi is right.

I also just picked 2 qty of this today. 1890/ per piece. Also bought the high tension cord set that goes along with this. 773/-.



Good know mseal can fix that radiator leak. I will also carry in case of an emergency.

[supremeBaleno]

So yesterday night we are driving to Cochin and at Alappuzha Medical college junction, when I slow down for traffic, the engine switches off. And then doesn't start - hesitation in cranking, pointing to a battery issue. While there isn't much traffic, I am still blocking folks in the middle of the road. Turn on the hazard lights and then I push the car & steer it to the side of the road.

It's 10PM and a Sunday, so no chance in hell of any battery shops to be open. I walk to the auto-stand and one of them takes me to an auto-electrician who has his home & shop in the same compound. We get there in his autorickshaw, wake the guy from sleep and go back to my stranded Baleno with a good battery, cables, plier etc. He connects his battery to mine, and asks me to start the car, which starts at first crank. He revs the engine for sometime, disconnects his battery and then says I am good to go.

I ask him what if the engine again dies on me - I still have 60kms to Cochin and it's 10:30PM. Importantly wife and kids are there in the car - if alone, I wouldn't bother much about getting stranded. He says, "It won't. Believe me. Just don't use the a/c - to avoid loading the battery and you will reach home without any issue".

I tell him that I can give him a security deposit for his battery, which I will return next week, to avoid being stranded. He says there is no need and I am good. Since I have to fuel up, I tell him that as a test of the battery, let me drive to the fuel-station nearby, switch off the car, then start after fuelling. Starts like a charm. So I take him for his word and drive off after paying him Rs500 & Rs200 for the auto-guy.

We drive on without a/c and reach home without any issues. Thank God !!!

Today morning, I go to the nearest Amaron guy, who checks my 4-year old battery and doesn't find anything wrong with it in terms of voltage or other params.

But anyway, I trade it in for a new Powerzone battery (same makers as Amaron, with similar warranty terms, but slightly cheaper). Amaron Flo was Rs3600, this was Rs3200 (after reducing value of the old battery).

This is my 5th battery in the 14y, 8m ownership, with batteries usually lasting only 3 to 3.5 years - this was the longest lasting at 4years old. My Dad's 2007 Swift is only sparingly used, but the OE Exide came for 6years and the replacement Amaron has now done 6 years too. Hmm.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

So yesterday night we are driving to Cochin and at Alappuzha Medical college junction, when I slow down for traffic, the engine switches off. And then doesn't start - hesitation in cranking, pointing to a battery issue. .

Is your alternator fine? Do a full load test and see if the alternator is able to sustain the minimum requisite(12.6V at idle).

I have faced this issue once when my 800's brand new battery got discharged and weak alternator was the culprit which was letting the voltage fall below 12V under full load.

Regards,
Shashi

[supremeBaleno]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Is your alternator fine? Do a full load test and see if the alternator is able to sustain the minimum requisite(12.6V at idle).

Thanks, Shashi. My mechanic also suggested the same - possible issue with the alternator. Will get this checked.
He actually told me over phone to do a simple test :
- Start the car after connecting the new battery.
- Disconnect the negative terminal.
- Check if engine dies. If yes, possible alternator issue.
- If engine still running, switch on headlamps. Check if engine dies.
- If engine dies, again a possibility of alternator issue.

In my case, engine ran after disconnecting -ve terminal. Continued to run even after switching on parking lamps. But died after switching on headlamps.
But I have higher power 100/90 bulbs with relay installed, which he says could explain the switching off.

Anyway, given that from the time the car was new, I have had batteries lasting only 3 odd years, I am hoping the alternator is fine.

BTW, forgot to mention in the last post that if I hadn't been able to get the auto-electrician, my fall back plan was to jump-start the car by having a friend/relative bring their car - I keep a good pair of jumper cables in the trunk.

[supremeBaleno]

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

The car wasn't used for last few days and when I took it out today noticed that the idling is kind of rough / shaky.
Normally the car idles at ~750rpm (without a/c) and at ~1000rpm (with a/c).

But when this issue is seen, it is the reverse - it idles at ~1100rpm (without a/c) and comes down to ~800rpm (with a/c).

Any idea as to what the possible cause could be ?

I had posted the above query in another thread (Problem: High Idle RPM) where scorpion and Leoshashi had replied. Adding their helpful response to this thread.

Originally Posted by scorpian

IAC Valve is stuck! Clean the throttle body. Disconnect the IAT Sensor and see if it makes any difference prior to opening the throttle body just to rule it out.

You will need to dismantle and clean the throttle body, just spraying the throttle plate may not help in your case.

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

In addition to what BHPian Scorpian has perfectly explained, remove throttle body from intake manifold, remove IAC also from Throttle body and clean inside out. But make sure you don't dismantle the IAC also, which many mechanics do as a standard practice. Your operating procedure should be:

1. Remove throttle body from Intake manifold and IAC valve and clean it inside out, both from front and back. Soak if need arises. The throttle plate should be absolutely free. While we are at it, don't let the mechanic fiddle with the original resting place of the throttle plate.

2. IAC valve: Spray cleaner and that should take care of normal cases. I'd recommend using a lubricant cum cleaner like WD40 rather than simple throttle body cleaners which are solvent based. The lube helps in smooth operation of the rotor inside IAC. Also, don't let the mechanic dismantle the IAC itself. That is actually easy to clean but also remember that it throws it out of calibration and it will be impossible for anyone to tune it back(might cause erratic idling after that). Hence dismantle it only if its the last resort before you change the assembly itself. This is coming from my own experience and also Suzuki manuals prohibits doing such things. Infact the modern valves come with rivets instead of screws so that mechanic cannot dismantle it.

Regards,
Shashi

[supremeBaleno]

So while after changing the spark plus & ignitor etc, most of the erratic idling was gone, but occassionally I could see the rpm dip to 330rpm which was disconcerting to say the least.

So last Friday (27-Dec-2019) got the throttle body cleaning done at my FNG Gulf Motors, Mavelikara. There was lot of muck in there which was the reason for the erratic rpm. The packing (paper gasket) was changed. Total cost including labour : Rs600

Now the car idles like it did when new - 700rpm without a/c and 1000rpm with a/c.

[supremeBaleno]

And on 25/3/2020, Black Beauty completed 15 years. After going back and forth on whether to sell or retain, finally I decided to keep her for another 5years at the least. Got the NOC from Chennai and registered her in Kerala in mid-March. But before I could do the Fitness Test & get new number plates etc, the Covid lockdown kicked in. FC test is now scheduled for 25-May-2020.

More on that in a later post - for now just a pic of how the babe looks at 15 years after a denting/painting/polishing job in preparation for her Certificate of Fitness test.


A summary of what it took in terms of money to get a car through 15 years of ownership.

Brief Summary :
Cost of car new (ex-showroom)--: Rs.5,37,467
Regn & 15-year roadTax----: Rs.43,160
Total Insurance cost--------: Rs.1,19,514 (1st year Ins. of 21617 was free)
Total maintenance expense: Rs.1,72,140
Total fuel cost in 15 years--: Rs.5,19,964

How the various items stack up in a pie-chart


For those who like the details and for my own reference, the maintenance expenses in detail over 15 years was as below.

Expenses in detail :

Scheduled Services :
1st Free Service at MASS @ 1020kms - Rs.604
2nd Free Service at MASS @ 4218kms - Rs.0
3rd free Service at MASS @ 9705kms - Rs.634
4th Paid Service at MASS @ 20224kms - Rs.2919
5th Paid Service at MASS @ 30767kms - Rs.2385
6th Paid Service at Elektra @ 38357kms - Rs.4337
7th Paid Service at Ignite @ 50100kms - Rs.3800
8th Paid Service at Ignite @ 60100kms - Rs.4183
9th Paid Service at Ignite @ 70331kms - Rs.4814
10th Paid Service at Ignite @ 77715kms - Rs31880
11th Paid Service at GulfAuto @ 87760kms - Rs2330
12th Paid Service at GulfAuto @ 97160kms - Rs2120
-------
Sub-Total-1 : Rs.60,006

Unscheduled repairs :
4 tyre punctures : Rs.260 ------> in 13 years
Battery charging: Rs.119 ------> twice drained due to boot-light being on.
Breakdown repair: Rs.10155 ---> RHS drive-shaft, inter. shaft, bearing etc
Brake shoes (rear-right) replacement + labour - 1550
Disc-brake pads -> 1600
Front-left Wheel-stud gas-cutting and replacement ; 400
K&N filter cleaning - 100
Rim-swap between alloy & steel wheel : 150
O2 sensor change - 2700
Timing-belt change - 4200
AC fan issue, windshield washer pump - 500
Rear brake shoes (L&R) change - 1300
AC fan issue, radiator fan relay connection, waterHose leak fix, RL PW - 900
AC gas topup : 800
Overheating issue : Rs800
Water seepage in Boot - 100
AC- topUp, leakFix etc - 1700
A/c Cooling coil replacement - 8300
Front left lower arm change - Rs3000
Brake Master Cylinder change - Rs12150
Full A/c work - Rs22300
Thermostat housing change & erratic idling issue - Rs4755
Battery failure - jump start ; Rs700
Throttle body cleaning due to erratic idle rpm - Rs600
-------
Sub-Total-2 : Rs.79,139

Other part replacement expenses :
2nd Battery (replaced in 3rd year) : 3500
3rd Battery (replaced in 7th year) : 3345
4th Battery (replaced in 10th year): 3500
5th Battery (replaced in 15th year): 3200
4# Tyres (replaced in 10th year) : 18,400
Fitting 100/90 lights with Philips relay : 1650
-------
Sub-Total-3 : Rs.33,595

Grand total : Rs.1,72,740
Rs.11516 per year (15yrs old)
Rs 1.6 per km (odo @ 107300kms).

At 10years and 80000kms, the corresponding figures were :
Total : Rs.95,035
Rs. 9500 per year (10yrs old)
Rs 1.18 per km (odo 80000kms).

[supremeBaleno]

Some updates over the past few months :

1) Denting of the front passenger door, front driver side fender and alignment of both front and back bumpers : Rs.4000
This was done at a 1-man denting shop near Kallummoodu (Mavelikara) and the guy is pretty good at his work.

2) Painting of the panels where denting was done & both the bumpers - Rs8500
This paint-shop is near the denting workshop. But I wasn't satisfied with the paint job - the difference between the painted and original panels is very stark. While the original still has the shine of metallic black, the newly painted panels are dull.

3) 7-May-2020 : Replaced the radiator. Had got one ordered via the MGP store at Vyttila (Cochin) - Rs.5400. Labour - Rs400. Total - Rs5,800/-

4) 15-Aug-2020 : Inspite of the throttle body cleaning, replacing all 4 spark plugs and 1 ignitor, after a few months, I again experienced engine knocking.
This was traced to the other ignitor going bad and was replaced. Rs1800 (1# Ignitor) + Rs200 (labour) - Rs2000.

[supremeBaleno]

The babe all clean & shiny after a good wash & wax, while waiting for the Fitness Certificate test at the RTO.


As with humans, for cars also age is but a number, if properly taken care of.

Parked at home after the test, along with my other Black Beauty - the Honda CBR250.

[ChoosetoCruze]

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

This was traced to the other ignitor going bad and was replaced.

For the Japanese, in my experience, the ignition coils on average last for 100,000kms. Chances are high that your remaining 2 factory coils may shortly follow suit with similar misfiring symptoms. You can choose to replace both the remaining factory coils when the next one fails to save on labour, and for a hassle free experience for the next 100,000kms.

As you have been doing, always replace using OEM or OEM supplier coils. I have found out the hard way using cheap coils, they don’t last for more than 20,000kms before failing again.

My 2nd set of OEM coils (Hitachi) are still going strong at 170,000kms in my Micra.

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

As with humans, for cars also age is but a number, if properly taken care of.

What I would give to get our old 2006 Lxi back, the car which I cut my teeth on..

Your words are absolutely true! But in my opinion, it only holds good for Japanese OEMs. You can forget about new Germans/Koreans lasting 10yrs + without spending a fortune on part replacement & repairs.

Wishing you another 10yrs of fuss free ownership!

[supremeBaleno]

Originally Posted by ChoosetoCruze

Chances are high that your remaining 2 factory coils may shortly follow suit with similar misfiring symptoms.

The car has only 2 coils - one of which was replaced with a new one recently and the other was earlier replaced with a used one from a scrapped car (should have gone for a new one to avoid possibility of failure).

Originally Posted by ChoosetoCruze

Wishing you another 10yrs of fuss free ownership!!!
What I would give to get our old 2006 Lxi back, the car which I cut my teeth on..

Thank you. As long as parts are available, I hope to hold on to this gem of a car. Even 15 years down, it is such a fun to drive car, be it in traffic where the good low-end torque negates need for constant gear changes or on the highways where it is pure fun.

[ChoosetoCruze]

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

The car has only 2 coils

Thank you. As long as parts are available, I hope to hold on to this gem of a car.

My bad! Just had a look of the picture of your engine & noticed that.

If the used coil came off, of a low mileage engine, then it may still have a considerable amount of life left in it.

I still vividly remember the 3rd gear acceleration! It would do 30 to 130 effortlessly in that single gear. Like you said, the highlight of that G16B was the versatile drivability & low end torque, which allowed you to cruise in 5th gear at unbelievably low speeds..