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HELP

I have been off the forum for a long time as have had a lot on my plate. I apologise for not participating more

I have a GV 2.0 manual

After reading a number of posts about various benefits ecm reset - yesterday I unplugged the neg terminal of the battery for 15-20 mins. Then reattached properly.
Till then the car was driving fine. Did not drive it after the reset till then evening. Started it - fine. Started driving - fine.
Within five mins - every time I would pick my foot of the accelerator - rpm drops to zero and engine shuts. Restart and same repeats. Have not had the courage to start her today

Please help

Manu

This happens after whenever you disconnect or replace the battery. :D:uncontrol

You just earned yourself a visit to the nearest MASS for a throttle body re-calibration.

You should be fine. Your ECU is basically relearning air/fuel mixture ratio settings and until it does that, it will stutter like the way you described. Driving around for several kilometers should take care of it.

Edit:
Yikes, I never went to MASS for this after an ECU reset. Is it important to do this? I figured the ECU settles in the new settings itself.

The Service Advisor at Motorcraft told me how to resolve this.

Turn on the the ignition key full - do not start - and leave it for 20 seconds.
Turn of the key and remove the key.
This should calibrate the idling rpm.
Now start and it should be fine.

The service advisor did this when the battery was disconnected for my GV during service.
I have not tried it but you can give it a shot.

If this does not resolve it, simply drive for a few days for about 100 odd kms and it will get calibrated to proper idling rpm on its own. That worked for me when I replaced my battery.

Styler

I have tried this, it gives temporary relief, but it doesn't stick. I ended up doing it every day as a result. Finally I had to get the throttle body re-calibration.

Read the 3 posts from here. For the Suzuki J series engines, whenever battery is removed and reconnected, throttle body calibration and ECM reset has to be done.

Thanks everyone for the quick response
I will try the key trick and if that doesn't work, then I will proceed to Motocraft and hope they can fix this

Appreciate your help

Manu

Try this.

Disconnect battery
Reconnect after a minute or two.
Switch the ignition on but do not start
Press accelerator to full and keep it there for a minute.
Switch off ignition without foot off the accelerator
After ten fifteen seconds let go of the accelerator
Start the car without any input from accelerator

So
With gratitude to all who posted
I tried all the above ways but nothing worked. After driving for a bit she would still lose rpm and stop

Then I figured maybe I am doing this wrong. I wasn't letting her find her idling rpm

Then switched on ignition - not staring the engine
Waited one minute
Switched off and removed key
Waited a minute
Then inserted key, fully started engine, no accelerator, and sat and waited
It took about 7 mins for her to finally hover around 850-900 rpm
Still waited for a few minutes and then shutdown and left her for the night
Next morning voila.
It's back to normal
And slight shuddering she used to have on changing gears is gone

Thank you all for your inputs. Couldn't have done it without your help

Great to see problem resolved. Basically the ECM's are always learning and adjusting parameters over matter of kilometres. If you do a steady long distance drive of about 200 kilometre and come back without local movement. You'll notice that the incoming average will be better than on outward leg. And for a day or two even average in local traffic will be reported higher.

Planning to buy a 2008 Grand Vitara 2.0. Its 58000kms on oddo. Has complete service history with Maruti. Asking is around 5.5lacs non-nego. Deal looks good to me. just wanted to confirm Spares availability for this model. Can someone please shred some light? Additional pointers to check the vehicle would be welcomed addition.

Spares are not a problem. The mileage is suspiciously low for a 10 year old car. Price is high though.

The transfer case front oil seal (#1 in the attached diagram) on my GV started leaking. So I got that rectified at MASS yesterday.


The seal was a MGP with part no. : 29283-66J0. Cost Rs.167.9+gst
Labour for replacing the same was Rs. 1350+gst.

This transfer case oil seal is a known trouble point for the GV. So please do replace it immediately on noticing the problem.

PS: please ask your SA to confirm seal dimensions physically with the replacement one.

Agree with Samuari sir, the price is high and mileage is low, ask the owner for low mileage. Also in my case i came across a similar Grey GV from Mumbai with 58000Km, however it came as a surprise that the RC was duplicate. Owner says the original was lost.
Various checklist are available over net for buying used car just go through them.

1. Go through the service history for major job replacements etc. Look for inconsistencies if any.
2. Drive the car over various combinations of speed, road surface(smooth, pothole, bumper to bumper traffic etc.
3. Check the 4H Lock and 4L transfer.
4. Owners profile does matter a lot as it reflects on how he would have cared/treated the car.

Good Luck

Yes it is a decent price and if negotiable a great deal.

Spares are not an issue as long as you can plan the service. All authorized dealers are able to place order and get parts within a week or two. Oils are all available off the shelf and there is a bit of part sharing from Suzuki/Maruti stable, that also helps.

Do all the usual checks that one would do for a second hand car, the addition would be the 4 wheel drive system working. If the seller allows a visit to an authorized service center, workshop can do a thorough check up and give you a health report.

Hi All,
A few Updates about my Grand Vitara 2.0 L
Last bit of work completed as follows :
1. The Lower arm bushes were worn out. Instead of replacing the Lower Arm (9.5K) I managed to get the Bush set for both sides for Rs 2800 and got them replaced by my local mechanics.
2. Bought 2 X Tocico Rear Shocks from the After-Market for Rs 5200 and got them replaced from my trusted local mechanics.
3. Got the Main belt from MGP Store for Rs 1440 and replaced it myself.
4. Went to Motorcraft after all this done for a few things -
Replacing Engine Mountings About Rs 6000
Replacing 3 oil-seals for about Rs 800
Replacing Idle Bearing Rs 1450
Replacing Left Side Brake Caliper rubber set Rs 500

Now after a thorough inspection, according to the mechanics at Motorcraft (MASS) there is nothing left to be done.

They did recommend to get the AC Serviced before the summer as the AC had run without a Cabin filter for sometime at the time I got the vehicle. The AC seems to be cooling perfectly but as a preventive maintenance thing I am planning to get the AC serviced before the summer. I have options of a good After market AC Workshop or at Motorcraft. I think I will stick to Motorcraft as the Dashboard has to be opened up to access the Cooling Coil for Service. Has anybody got this done? Are the workshops able to remove and put back the Dashboard properly? Is it a risky job, Are there any chances of Rattles etc ?