[VivOverland]

I've been looking out for a roll bar (also known as a sports bar) for Emma. Unfortunately, most bars are not compatible with the Carryboy roller lid I have installed (see post below). The challenge being that the lid takes up most of the space on the sides of the tonneau, and most bars require a triangular mount at the front end.

Originally Posted by VivOverland

For now though, Emma is still beautiful to me
Attachment 1675649

While this accessory is more a case of form over function; in my case I do need it to enhance loading abilities from time to time. Some of the requirements:
1. Provide mounting points for lights.
2. Tug points to run straps and ropes.
3. Support for people sitting out back on the trail.

Had looked at many options, which can be summarized to these 2

Hamer Long roll bar


Carryboy sports bar (compatible with CB roller lid)


Obviously the Hamer fit my needs, but unfortunately in stock condition it is not compatible with the lid I have. Also found these way too expensive, for what is essentially shaped tubing with powder coating (remember these are usually for form, not function). Kept looking out for options, as I was quite happy with the roller lid configuration for most of my drive cycle. Along the way, and basis notes dropped on the Facebook and WhatsApp owner forums - got in touch with Bon AutoTech (BAT), based in Mumbai. The owner also drives a DMax, and they have a range of products being developed for the truck. What is unique about BAT is that they are India based, and produce 4x4 accessories for international markets, primarily for Mahindra products in South Africa. What this means is a more appetizing price, minus import duty as the goods are manufactured in India. For the DMax I saw side steps, roll bars, snorkel, tonneau boxes, and the like.
(Disclaimer - I have no affiliation or special consideration with BAT, and paid retail rates for my purchase).

This is what was proposed, with a higher top bar (on which to mount lights).


The owner also seemed quite happy to customize his product to my needs, and we agreed on a mounting system and also additional tug points for lights (4x on the top bar) and ratchets / straps (2x on the side bars). Some variance to the standard paint job (blood red highlights) was agreed to, and we had a deal. As the product is under regular manufacture, my custom bull bar was quickly modified and ready for me in just a few days.

Here's the finished product at the workshop



Some thoughts from first impressions:
- you certainly get what you pay for. The finishing is a bit rough in places, but nothing I can't live with.
- BAT logo was much larger than anticipated. Again, decided to live with it.
- there were elements which were missed out from the design the owner finalized with me (jerrycan holder, 2x tug points). Put it down to Chinese whisper from his side, as I know the plant guys were on top of their game. He was surprisingly not available to clarify, when this point was raised. Neither was the sketch shared with them for better understanding.
- the plant team had no clue of my specific setup required (they thought it was a standard fitting, and were getting set to drill THROUGH the CB roller lid). However once I (re)explained my needs, they were more than ready to help, and immediately did what they could to find a solution. Another reason to always personally supervise work on your beloved machine.

This was at 4pm (I was a 1/2 hour late), and the entire process took 5.5 hours

Step 1 - position the bar to understand mounting points.

You can see the limited load-bearing space available, due to the flat panel of the roller lid.


Accordingly, the plan was made to create brackets with supporting holders, which can take the load of the bar; while at the same time, providing necessary mounting strength for use of tug points in future. The team did explain that this solution is not as strong as the original, which I was anticipating. The idea was to create something like this, and happily the team reached a similar (IMHO, better) conclusion.


Step 2 - taking measurements, and creating a paper template. Objective being to limit drilling, while giving maximum stability and strength to the mounts.


Step 3 - fabricate brackets for front and back legs. Drill (3x4 holes, i.e. 3 for each leg).

Rear leg brackets - 2 pc each side.


Drill holes for the rear leg

And the front leg


Front leg brackets - 2 pc each side (you can see the holder welded on).



Step 4 - mount the brackets and test sizing.




Step 5 - paintshop - powder coating and fire drying(to speed up the process).




Step 6 - mounting post paintwork

Front bracket mounted (before bolting the holder on top)


Rear bracket and holder mounted


Fully mounted at last... Case study in how to (or not) spend your day off!




The team that made it happen for me, posing at 9.45 pm, after nearly 6 hours of passionate work. Hats' off to these guys, they could have easily asked to push the job forward another day, but did not even question once. Looks like a good team, and I had some great conversations with their manager Dhiraj. They saved the day for me.

Will post some pics of the setup in better lighting soon. For now, just loving the feel - and can't help stealing glances in the side mirrors every now and then

[zzzehar]

I have been following your thread, FB posts etc. for a long time. The mounting fabrication looks fabulous.
On the other hand, the finished product doesn't look good. The BAT 4x4 logo looks hideous and could have easily been customized to an Isuzu or a VCross. I think the horizontal bar on which the logo is cut out isn't quite horizontal, it seems to be at an angle.
Of course, if you are happy with it, my opinion doesn't carry much weight. Enioy the ride and keep posting. You are an inspiration, I am going to get mine soon.

[VivOverland]

Originally Posted by zzzehar

I have been following your thread, FB posts etc. for a long time. The mounting fabrication looks fabulous.
On the other hand, the finished product doesn't look good. The BAT 4x4 logo looks hideous and could have easily been customized to an Isuzu or a VCross. I think the horizontal bar on which the logo is cut out isn't quite horizontal, it seems to be at an angle.
Of course, if you are happy with it, my opinion doesn't carry much weight. Enioy the ride and keep posting. You are an inspiration, I am going to get mine soon.

Thanks zzzehar, good to hear your thoughts. I can only attest that the logo looks better in the flesh, though I'm probably wearing my rose biased glasses as I say so!

The logo is easily addressed if I change my mind, stickering or paint job + basic metalwork can work wonders. The panel is load bearing (hence the angle), so that stays as is.

[VivOverland]

Better pictures, as promised. Got Emma back from her 1st monthly wash.

Fits very tidily over the roller lid, which remains fully functional. HMSL unobstructed.




The blood red tug points hint at future design elements, perhaps some decals. The points will be well used, hopefully they help support Skoppie (RE Thunderbird AVL 2004) on one of our trips. I know what wheel chock is required, and where to fabricate it! Just need to find some good ratchet straps next, shouldn't be too hard.


Tug points for aux lights clearly visible on the top bar.


Those CB steps are looking a bit battered from our trail rides. Should've probably chosen proper chassis mounted sliders - blame it on the rush to get out of the showroom. Will get them touched up and reset on the next service (1,500 to hit 20,000 kms).




Time to figure out lighting systems next. Not sure which way to go - Hella (700FF? Rallye?) or light bar + work light combination (bar up centre, work lights on the corners with swivel mounts)... Am very amenable to suggestions, and a recommendation for a good technician Mumbai-side. I would be very careful before using the typical car accessories shop + attached 'electrical expert'.

[GTO]

Thanks for sharing, VivOverland! Moving your roll bar posts to a new thread, so that other V-Cross / Pickup truck owners can easily find it. This detailed post surely deserves its own thread.

[ariesonu]

Ref below arrangement for front bracket mount, you could have gone for 'C' channel beam. It would give more cleaner look and less of bolting points, which can anytime get loose. Just my 2 cents:

Present arrangement:


'C' channel beams



Also IMO, red lip on you alloys will give your EMMA a NEW look.

Regards-Sonu

[VivOverland]

Originally Posted by ariesonu

Ref below arrangement for front bracket mount, you could have gone for 'C' channel beam. It would give more cleaner look and less of bolting points, which can anytime get loose.

Also IMO, red lip on you alloys will give your EMMA a NEW look.

Regards-Sonu

Thank you Sonu, you're absolutely right. Put it down to us having to reverse engineer on the spot! Made, not bought The channel beam you've suggested will definitely work, and bolting can be done vertically (top to bottom) instead of crosswise as I did. We also thought that the holder (panel which mounts to the bar) could be merged with the upper bracket, so it's all 1-piece. This setup can become a template for future truckers with a roller lid, who still want a proper roll bar.

I did think of the red lip on the wheels - but that would not survive our next outing on the trail, especially when aired down. Scratches, nicks and marks to the lip would defeat the purpose IMHO. This truck gets down and dirty regularly, so all my mods need to be fairly functional too.

[AJITHAAA]

Since it is only for form and not for function, would do a world of good if you could get rid of the BAT 4X4 cross piece, its crudely made(guess stencil, gas cut and hand finished) and crudely put on.
Don't think the D-max comes with a provision to mount a Roll bar, its only a Sports bar mount which can be used to mount accessories. Roll bars need to be part of the Chassis to perform its intended duty. Mounting it on sheet metal can do more harm than good in an eventuality(god forbid).

[AJITHAAA]

Also highlighting potential impalement points and safer designs.

[vishwaschettri]

Originally Posted by ariesonu

'C' channel beams
Attachment 1732563
Attachment 1732565

Wouldn't a heavy MS box section be a more elegant and much more rigid solution to C or L sections? Or am I missing the obvious?

[VivOverland]

Originally Posted by vishwaschettri

Wouldn't a heavy MS box section be a more elegant and much more rigid solution to C or L sections? Or am I missing the obvious?

Interesting and very viable option. Depends on the user IMHO. I for one prefer a clear and open tonneau lip, for loading access and also aesthetics.

How would you suggest this be mounted to the bed, as we do need access to the bolts for maintenance.

[roamer012]

Originally Posted by VivOverland

How would you suggest this be mounted to the bed, as we do need access to the bolts for maintenance.

Issues during maintenance will only come up once you have mounted them in first place. In fact i think similar issues in mounting will be there in a solid C-section beam as well. In case you can mount them easily then i doubt there will be any access issues for maintenance at a later date.

[pjbiju]

Originally Posted by vishwaschettri

Wouldn't a heavy MS box section be a more elegant and much more rigid solution to C or L sections? Or am I missing the obvious?

As VivOverland asked later, accessing the mounting holes to tighten the bolts would be very tricky in case of a box section.

Originally Posted by VivOverland

I've been looking out for a roll bar (also known as a sports bar) for Emma. Unfortunately, most bars are not compatible with the Carryboy roller lid I have installed (see post below). The challenge being that the lid takes up most of the space on the sides of the tonneau, and most bars require a triangular mount at the front end.
...

Originally Posted by ariesonu

Ref below arrangement for front bracket mount, you could have gone for 'C' channel beam. It would give more cleaner look and less of bolting points, which can anytime get loose. Just my 2 cents:
...

In my opinion, if someone is fabricating them newly, creating the entire bracket out of one single piece of metal would be the best. One of the designs could be as shown below with a rib each on either end for additional strength and support. It is similar to a C section that ariesonu showed above. One would need a bending machine to fabricate the bracket.

Viewed from the top


Upside down


From the bottom

[VivOverland]

Originally Posted by pjbiju

In my opinion, if someone is fabricating them newly, creating the entire bracket out of one single piece of metal would be the best. One of the designs could be as shown below with a rib each on either end for additional strength and support. It is similar to a C section that ariesonu showed above. One would need a bending machine to fabricate the bracket.

Viewed from the top
Attachment 1733637

Upside down
Attachment 1733638

From the bottom
Attachment 1733639

This is awesome work! Happy to retrofit if we find a worthy fabricator

[vishwaschettri]

Originally Posted by VivOverland

How would you suggest this be mounted to the bed, as we do need access to the bolts for maintenance.

Originally Posted by pjbiju

As VivOverland asked later, accessing the mounting holes to tighten the bolts would be very tricky in case of a box section.

I had something very simple and easy to fabricate in my mind.

@ pjbiju - Your solution is very elegant but may deform when screws are fully tightened. A stiffener on either side of screw location or even better a sleeve is reccomended.

1. Option 1
   Weld the stock top plate to box section and drill holes through and through. Make top hole larger so that it can accommodate bolt head and socket. Refer image below
   
   
   
2. Option 2
   Weld the stock top plate to box section and drill holes through and through. Insert heavy duty metal sleeves of outer dia matching the hole dia and weld all around from both sides. Use longer high strength screw. All load is taken by sleeves so that box section does not collapses or deforms. Refer MM550 NGCS chassis mounting hole detail
   

Cheers
Vishwas