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So as others clarified, you might require extra relay and ceramic holders.(blade fuses are optional but it would be good if we install them).

Be very careful with 100/130. You are risking burning your reflectors and 'fogging' up the inside of the plastic part of the headlamp assy due to the heat.
Please observe carefully if you go ahead with those bulbs.

Thanks everyone. I am not the type who would plonk in additional electrical things into my ride. Am kinda paranoid.
stupid:

So, I'll wait for the 100/90 H4 ones, if it is still available.
I'm releasing the reservation for 130/100 H4. Anyone else can pick this up.

SPEEDY_RACER - I'll call you on 5th Dec, to see if you still have one pair of 100/90, so that I can pick it up. Please reserve one for me.

I had a few queries regarding lamps of the Ford Ikon. My questions are:

1. Will i require extra wiring/holders for H4 90/100's or is the stock sufficient enough.

2. Also, can 1(left side) bulb be 100/130 while the other(right) is 90/100. I am asking this because i drive on deserted village roads at night & want to illuminate my left side more than right. Usually people/cattle etc jump out suddenly from the left. Using 100/130 at right is gonna be overkill & might blind oncoming traffic. What do you say? Can the bulbs on both sides be different?

Finally bought Philips Essential Vision 100/90 today and fitted it on My WagonR. I was just waiting for the night to do a test drive with the new bulbs. The intensity & spread is the same as that of my previous bulb (100/90 Philips Rally), but a lot less yellowish. It is not extreme white either.From outside it looks super cool now, with the whitish beam. Overall a perfect balance of white-yellow mixing, beam-intensity and spread.

Soumyajit, what I meant was you can retain the current kit doing duty for 100 90 to fit the 130 100 bulbs.
No need to add or remove anything at all. The current kit you have which consists of relay, ceramic holders and fuses is designed for 130 100 also.

I assume you already have the kit installed as you say you have been using 100 90 on your ride.

I would suggest anyone to not plonk in high wattage bulbs like the 130/100 bulbs.

I used the Philips 130/100 Rallye for a while in my esteem (few yrs back) with ceramic holders and thicker wires, etc. but the reflector and lens started getting dull due to excessive heat over a period of time. I eventually changed the headlight units to clear lamps in the car with 100/90W bulbs.

Agree with you on this Aditya. I for one have been using 90-100w since past 4 years and most of the drives have been at nights only.

With 100-130, the heat produced is more due to higher wattage.

My response to Soumyajit was only to address his concern regarding whether he needs to add anything additional apart from the wiring kit he is already using for 90-100 to be able to install the 100-130 bulbs.

Ahh, no.. I am using the stock bulbs 55/60.Don't have any kit installed.

Thanks a lot for clarifying the ideas behind high powered bulbs !! But then like you and Aditya have faced, the reflector gets dull after prolonged use.
So I am sticking to 100/90 only, if SPEEDY_RACER has a pair left with him.

Even 100/90 would need ceramic holders, relay and a wiring harness.

130/90 can be used on old non multi reflector headlights which have glass safely. I was using them on old Zen and i never had to use high beam. Well the stupid drivers using high beam would always heed with just a pass switch haha

I would suggest go no higher than 100w for headlamps because disadvantages outweigh the benefits for 130w in my experience. Service life is much lesser than 100w. The heat generated might be too much and it could melt through your lens at the centre. It is also not advisable to keep 100w or 130w on for long time at hi beam unless you have a vehicle with glass lens. Anything above stock wattage for h4 bulbs will require a relay with ceramic holders. You dont want to be stuck in the middle of nowhere at night due to busted wiring that cannot be fixed! Using a relay ensures your stock wiring stays intact. Now you have to bother only whether your headlamp unit will be able to take the extra heat. Using different wattage on two sides is not a problem but it can be made out from a front view of the vehicle as 130 burns really bright and almost white compared to 100 when new. But it does become faded pretty quickly with use. So you begin to lose the benefit of 130w as it gets older.

No.1. Certainly yes, you need a seperate wiring with Ceramic holders.

No.2. 100/130 would be a overkill anyway. 90/100 would be more than sufficient for your purpose. Specially as you said deserted village roads (assumed, with no street lights) the 90/100 would sufficiently light the road ahead.

I believe you are getting confused again. Let me make it simple:):

Stocks run on 55-60w. Any upgrade (read increase in wattage, whether to 100-90w or 130-100w) would mandate you to install the wiring kit (consists of Ceramic Holders+Relays+Fuses).

You simply cannot plug and play a higher wattage bulb on the stock holder/wiring which is designed to take the load of 55-60w only. Even if you do so, you will end up frying a lot of things in the car sooner or later.

Hence, if you are still contemplating on getting those 100-90w bulbs also, you will definitely have to install the wiring kit.

The stock holder and wiring is not recommended for this.

Bottom line: Whether its 100-90w or 130-100w, you will have to install the Kit with ceramic holders, fuses and relays.

When we say Kit, it essentially means Wiring harness+Relay+Fuses+Ceramic Holders that is a separate part which is connected to the stock wiring.

Is there any difference in the spread of the light on the road or only on the colour. I also have a 2008 model WagonR that is used on Mountain roads mostly by my dad. I have been using Phillips Rally 130/100W with relay.

Recently I switched to 100/90 Phillips Rally when the fuse blew off. I am very satisfied with the performance of this and want to know if the additional expense of switching to Essential Vision is worth it.

The yellow light is very effective in the fog/rains/mist, though!

The spread depends on the position of the filament. as long as that stays uncganged then so does the pattern. Colour depends on the filament temperature. If you go for NB+ the light is slightly cooler (bluish) as the filament runs hotter. HID is what you choose. I will not go beyond 4300K for headlamps (about the same as halogens) and prefer 2700/3000K for fogs as they are yellow/yellow-green. I have 3000K HIDs is my fogs.