Team-BHP
(
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)
Quote:
Originally Posted by saurabh2711
(Post 3420249)
My question is "Is it OK to plug the GROUND/EARTH wire of left headlight directly to the Negative of the Battery"? Tried this for a moment & was happy with the output, but only sceptic to do it permanently. |
Try sanding the flat ring terminals to remove any oxide layer, and then fix it on the bolt. It's a good idea to check for and remove traces of rust on the bolt and also on the contacts inside the ceramic holder. All this, is to ensure that the ground wire gets makes very good contact with the body. To answer your specific question, YES, you can.
I'm planning to get hid in my ertiga. I'm still confused between 4300k and 6000k, as the ertiga has h4 which means both high beam and low beam will have same configuration. Considering the fact that during rains 6000k will have lower visibility than 4300k I'm thinking of 4300k but all people whom I've spoken suggest me to go for 6000k. Experts can help me with this. Another confusion is to find out which brand to go for. I've got quote of 5.5k for one make with canbus and bi-xenon and 1 year warranty but fittings needs to be done at my end. Another option is with a reputed shop costing 7500 with 1 year warranty but doesn't have bi-xenon or canbus technology. Philips authorised stockist is quoting around 9k but I need to get fitting from outside. The earlier 1st one looks good to me but I need to find a good installer to get it done ,experts can help me also if someone can help me with a good installer ? There are many Chinese options available from as low as 2k but I'm not sure on their quality.
Quote:
Originally Posted by saurabhkum
(Post 3420673)
I'm planning to get hid in my ertiga. I'm still confused between 4300k and 6000k, as the ertiga has h4 which means both high beam and low beam will have same configuration. . |
Saurabh
Please do make sure to include projectors also along HID otherwise it won't be of much help .
Stock reflector won't do justice to Hid .
Quote:
Originally Posted by saurabhkum
(Post 3420673)
I'm planning to get hid in my ertiga. I'm still confused between 4300k and 6000k, as the ertiga has h4 which means both high beam and low beam will have same configuration. Considering the fact that during rains 6000k will have lower visibility than 4300k I'm thinking of 4300k but all people whom I've spoken suggest me to go for 6000k. Experts can help me with this. Another confusion is to find out which brand to go for. I've got quote of 5.5k for one make with canbus and bi-xenon and 1 year warranty but fittings needs to be done at my end. Another option is with a reputed shop costing 7500 with 1 year warranty but doesn't have bi-xenon or canbus technology. Philips authorised stockist is quoting around 9k but I need to get fitting from outside. The earlier 1st one looks good to me but I need to find a good installer to get it done ,experts can help me also if someone can help me with a good installer ? There are many Chinese options available from as low as 2k but I'm not sure on their quality. |
You are better off with 4300k, if your priority is illumination. Anything above 5000k would look bling-bling but offer poor visibility and more glare in rains, mist, fog etc.
Using HIDs in your headlamps without projectors is a bad idea. The HL reflectors are designed for incandescent bulbs, and not for HIDs. The glare and bad focussing will overshadow the increased lumens put out by the lamps, which are simply put, unusable.
Be warned that all HIDs take a while to reach their maximum light output, which can be around 15 seconds. So you will be deprived of the ability to 'flash' the headlamps like you would do with a halogen. Another risk is regarding the sealing of the HL.
You may want to do a research before putting your money on anything, search for
Bi-Xenon projector retrofits
@silversteed; Apparently Morimoto permit insertion of the HiD bulbs at any time. They are fixed by bolting, and have enough of an opening. I must add that 90%+ of failures are the ballast and not the bulb. I hear avstuning sell these in India.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sgiitk
(Post 3420927)
@silversteed; Apparently Morimoto permit insertion of the HiD bulbs at any time. They are fixed by bolting, and have enough of an opening. I must add that 90%+ of failures are the ballast and not the bulb. I hear avstuning sell these in India. |
You are right, Professor. What I meant was, the re-sealing of the headlamp assembly after fixing the projector and shroud may not be proper, and hence moisture and dirt will find their way inside.
AVStuning is the official distributor for all TRS products. I'm sure you would've seen their pages in other fora as well as eBay.
Quote:
Originally Posted by silversteed
(Post 3420965)
You are right, Professor. What I meant was, the re-sealing of the headlamp assembly after fixing the projector and shroud may not be proper, and hence moisture and dirt will find their way inside. |
Formation of moisture can happen in any headlights when you remove the bulbs for installation or replacement. My aftermarket swift headlights had this problem since moisture got trapped when we opened to install HIDs. It will be there for couple of days. The thing I did was opened the rubber bush slightly and switched on the headlights for couple of mins. The installer advised me to drive for few kms but I dont recommend that as dirt might find it's way in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by silversteed
(Post 3418792)
or fix H11 55W bulbs in the fogs (please add relays or else you risk damaging the wiring), |
Silversteed, Is a relay with H11 55W fog bulbs mandatory? I have similar bulbs in my Ritz without relay. The fog lamp switch tends to become hot within 15-20 mins of driving!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prodigy07
(Post 3421074)
Silversteed, Is a relay with H11 55W fog bulbs mandatory? I have similar bulbs in my Ritz without relay. The fog lamp switch tends to become hot within 15-20 mins of driving! |
Let's do some math
12V, 35W, 2 bulbs -> Total current = ~6Amp
12V, 55W, 2 bulbs -> Total current = ~10Amp
You are pushing over 50% extra current than normal, through the switch. Not a good idea.
Quote:
Originally Posted by saurabhkum
(Post 3420673)
I'm planning to get hid in my ertiga. I'm still confused between 4300k and 6000k, as the ertiga has h4 which means both high beam and low beam will have same configuration. Considering the fact that during rains 6000k will have lower visibility than 4300k I'm thinking of 4300k but all people whom I've spoken suggest me to go for 6000k. Experts can help me with this. Another confusion is to find out which brand to go for. I've got quote of 5.5k for one make with canbus and bi-xenon and 1 year warranty but fittings needs to be done at my end. Another option is with a reputed shop costing 7500 with 1 year warranty but doesn't have bi-xenon or canbus technology. Philips authorised stockist is quoting around 9k but I need to get fitting from outside. The earlier 1st one looks good to me but I need to find a good installer to get it done ,experts can help me also if someone can help me with a good installer ? There are many Chinese options available from as low as 2k but I'm not sure on their quality. |
Since you're from Mumbai you may refer to this thread :
Projectors-hid-ice-etc-sainath-auto-ultimate-khar-mumbai
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prodigy07
(Post 3421074)
Silversteed, Is a relay with H11 55W fog bulbs mandatory? I have similar bulbs in my Ritz without relay. The fog lamp switch tends to become hot within 15-20 mins of driving! |
The fog lamp already has a relay installed, so you neednt worry. The fog light tends to get hot because there are two bulbs inside, one for the switch illumination and another for indicating that the lamps are on.
Have bought these LEDs from DX. Are these direct replacement bulbs or I need to add resistor in the circuit? I am also worried a little about the power rating at 7.5W for these bulbs.
http://dx.com/p/266867 http://dx.com/p/286880
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prodigy07
(Post 3421074)
Silversteed, Is a relay with H11 55W fog bulbs mandatory? I have similar bulbs in my Ritz without relay. The fog lamp switch tends to become hot within 15-20 mins of driving! |
My Brio has 55W H11 Fogs, no relay in sight. I have replaced the 35W H11 fogs in my Civic with 55W HIDs, and have not used any relay or loom. No problems so far.
Quote:
Originally Posted by anachronix
(Post 3421553)
Have bought these LEDs from DX. Are these direct replacement bulbs or I need to add resistor in the circuit? I am also worried a little about the power rating at 7.5W for these bulbs. http://dx.com/p/266867 http://dx.com/p/286880 |
You don't need a resistor. I ran similar ones in my parking lights, and slightly smaller ones for indicators with pnp only, nothing extra.
I bought the Philips Xtreme Vision H4 bulbs for my Rapid today. Got it from AK Traders at 950/- for a pair. He initially said he didn't have stock and it will come on Tuesday/ Wednesday. However, I made a helpless face and he made a call to someone and asked to confirm if stock is available. I waited for 5 minutes and got the bulb.
Have replaced it in the car. Initial result seems good. The bulbs are definitely brighter than stock. Need to test it under driving conditions and report. I have had experience with Philips Extreme power in my earlier Honda citys and was happy with the output, save for the shorter life with these high powered bulbs.
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