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-   -   Honda CBR 250R : Answers to some commonly asked questions (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorbikes/118403-honda-cbr-250r-answers-some-commonly-asked-questions-51.html)

Hi all, a little help needed here.

My CBR is currently on Honda Throttle full synthetic 10w30. It has been 2,200 kms and 3 months since the service/oil change.
The oil level has gone from upper level to exactly between upper and lower level in 3 months time.
Both checks were done when bike was off and was very still straight held by myself.

The question is - Have any of you experienced this reduction with the stock oil ? That too so early in 2.2k kms ? (I am used to shell advance ultra having small reduction every 1k kms but never had this issue with Throttle oil). Is this normal ?

My average usage is 700 kms per month with 50-50% in city-highway.

PS - there are absolutely no leaks and also no abnormal smoke from the exhaust.

Yes, nothing to worry about. I saw similar reduction 2 years ago when I was using Honda OEM engine oil. By the way, check if you see oil leaks on your cylinder head cover. In my case, I observed oil leaks on head cover but strangely haven't observed any after the last oil change. I still ordered a head gasket and would replace it during my next service. Anything imperfect with the bike triggers me. :coldsweat

Besides, since you're riding 700 kms every month, you can combine chain maintenance and engine oil top up every 1.5 months (i.e 1000 kms).

Thanks Siddhant. Yes I will buy one bottle of Honda Throttle from the service center (hope they give it because here, they act weird while selling anything on the counter as they lose out on labour if we don't get the work done in the service center. And the local shops stock all brands except Honda Throttle FS)

And no there has been no leaks anywhere. I checked thoroughly.

Which oil are you using BTW ?

I had a cbr 250r in which i clocked 95k kms before i sold it. I never had such issues through out the entire ownership. I usually change oil based on the engine feel every 3000-4000kms. I tried different oils but i found the Honda oem synthetic 10w30 to be the best. I used it mostly for touring almost 90%.

I heard Amsoil 10w30 is doing wonders. Try it if u wish to.

How much has the bike clocked? Shim adjustments done?

Shell Advance Ultra 10W-40 that I usually order from Amazon. For oil(s), I don't bother with OEM brands anymore. My brake fluid is DOT 5.1 Liqui Moly and fork oil is Motul 20W. Coolant though, I use Honda's premix one and don't experiment with anything else.

I bought mine in Jan 2012 but has run only 41k kms. No valve clearance / shim replacement done ever. I experience some vibrations beyond 6k rpm but I've gotten used to it as it isn't too bad and there is no ticking/sewing machine type of noise from the engine. So even the Honda ASC mechanics say there is no issue with the shims and the vibes at higher RPM is normal.

Coming to the engine oil part, I guess it differs from one CBR to another then. Some face and some don't face any reduction. If the piston rings were worn, there would have been some smell and white or black smoke from the exhaust which is not the case in my bike. So il ignore it I guess and will continue to top up every 1-1.5k kms and maintain the level near the upper level mark of inspection window.

Thanks. I've used Shell Adv Ultra 10w40 for most part but after my oil/mechanical seal issue 6 months back (covered few pages ago in this thread), I decided to stick to stock oil. And yes, Honda pre mix blue coolant is the best. Also easy to identify just by the look in case there is a leak.

What kinda vibes are you experiencing? like in the tank or bars or footpegs?

Tighten the engine bolts and make sure no rivets in the fairing are missing.

Most of the ASC guys are afraid of shim replacements (at least here in my town) as it may lead to other head related problems if not done properly. so that ll be the default reply from them. Try to get it checked with some 3rd party service providers. I never took my vehicle to ASC after the warranty period was over. Not just CBR thats the case with all my vehicles.

Engine bolts and fairing clips all are fine. Were checked last time. I 100% agree with your assumption that the mechanics aren't too keen on shim job. But I decided to not push them for it as the vibes were "manageable".

At higher RPM (around 6k and above), there are vibrations on the handlebar and tank. They gradually increase as the RPM increases. So basically from 6k till redline, there are vibes. But not as bad as the Apache rr310 2019 model (my friend has it and I have ridden it so can compare)

In my next service il try Motul 7100 10w40 as I've read quite a lot that it is better than Shell Adv Ultra and stock honda throttle at higher RPMs for the CBR. If I continue to face the vibes, then il go for the shim work.

cool.

IMHO, Go for a higher grade than the one recommended by manufacturer only if there is maximum wear and tear in you engine. If not try to stick to the stock 10w30 grade. You can try between different brands.

Moving to a 10w40 grade you may experience a slight drop in pickup and mileage. I tried 10w40 and 10w50 before settling back to the stock Honda throttle 10W30. By then there was no AMSoil, so i didnt have a chance to try it out.

Pls pardon my delayed response as I've been away from most social media for sometime.

I had this tingling sensation when ridden CBR for a long time as well as a short distance on GT650, which made me away towards Inty 650. Even I don't know the exact reason, however, I'm not getting it these days & I tend to think it's got to do more with body weight/posture/aging of both bike & biker; but again, not sure.

ODO? And what's the distance you ride everyday; need every single day, if you can pls.

You know what I will swear by hehe - Shell 10W40

That would always be there unless you take out the caliper kit & forcefully send both the brake pads inside using a C-clamp. You should see how Inty vs Rx behaves on this aspect lol:

Fuel has got nothing to do in this; if you haven't changed the fuel station, riding style & nearly the same roads, then time to check/replace the O2 sensor. I had a similar issue - riding around 100 Kmph I got low mileage of 26-27 Kmpl on the same roads & I tested it multiple times for a period of 3+ months . Despite several protest from ASC, I asked them to replace the O2 sensor (costed like 2K in 2017) after which I started getting 32 Kmpl on 100+ Kmph. If you're not opening your throttle over 80% even once in your journey, then O2 sensor is the culprit. I was able to detect this issue by recording every single trip & every single fill up.

Rubber inside the piston??? :eek: I initially thought the piston inside the cylinder!! These are all the components inside the caliper kit, there's almost no rubber except for oil seal, which I'm sure is not the one to replace because if this rubber is damaged, the brake oil starts leaking.

Not sure which rubber, but then, if they feel so, then yes, it's better to replace entire caliper kit rather than individual components (my Rx taught a good lesson, which I save it for another day); if you've STD C250R, then replace the master cylinder with Nissin & caliper kit with Bybre, trust me, the brakes are next level!!

My bike seems to be having some electrical issue off lately. The horn has started sounding louder and ABS light starts blinking. This happens after few mins or half a kilometer of riding. Till then the horn is also normal and ABS works fine (without blinking).

Then it starts blinking continuously. It is not the type of blink indicating an error code. I have checked the service manual. It is a continuous non stop blink which only stops when I bring the speed down to 0 and stay at 0 for like 5 seconds. Then again I resume riding and the blinking and loud horn issue starts in few mins.

And occasionally, the console goes blank and RPM needle falls to 0 (engine is running fine and the console light as well as headlight is working fine) but the console is blank.. and in a few seconds automatically comes back to life.

Engine has no issue, there is absolutely no issue with the brake pads or discs or the ABS discs. No bends, minimal scratches, adequate brake fluid too. It is 100% an electrical issue.

Battery was replaced 20 months ago and in my close to 11 years of ownership I haven't faced such an issue. And considering rains and myself being used to relying on ABS (this is my first bike and I've not ridden a Non ABS bike in last 11 years) so this issue is a pretty concerning one for me.

What can be the issue ? I am asking here first and then will go to the Honda ASC because I don't want to be told to replace 5 things out of which the real culprit may be just 1 of them.

Can it be something related to fuse ? Is the voltage fluctuating ?

The bike starts with just one push of the start button and I really don't think the battery is low. But it definitely has to do with the electrical/wiring.

I googled but sadly there isn't a thread discussing abt such an issue anywhere (checked teambhp, xbhp and the CBR250 dot net forums)

Bike gave me minimal issues in the initial 9.5 years but since a year it has really been very frustrating.

Update : battery voltage and all fuses are perfectly fine. Which means culprit is something else. Can it be the rectifier ? What else can it be ?

Dear Ratan,

Since the fuse and battery are all right, please check the Rectifier unit, followed by the alternator. Alternator going kaput will actually result in the battery not charging. Never the less get it checked.

If the above two are also fine, then the issue will be with the wiring. The possibility of the wiring getting damaged and short circuiting seems high in your case.

Thank you for the response.
Yes I will get the Alternator/stator coil and rectifier checked on Monday. Won't be riding the bike till then although the engine and headlights/indicators work fine.

PS - I don't think it is a short circuit. Because in that case, absolutely no electronic components would have worked right ? For a minute or so, everything works fine. Then all the ABS light blinking and console going blank thing starts.

I seriously hope it is just the rectifier and nothing else. Because a rectifier would cost me 2.5k and is available in stock. Stator or short circuit in wiring would cost me a lot more.