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Originally Posted by VW2010
(Post 3854289)
Post a video for the noise. To me it sounds like the legendary coolant tank vibrating against the fake tank covering or the body. This is more like vibration sound at this point based on the way the sound appears or even the front console holding the headlight vibrating while vehicle is running. Or even the cover at the bottom of the bike. Something is loose and that is vibrating only when the bike is running. |
Or its transmission related. Not so legendary in his case as he's actually referring to a 150 cc Suzuki Gixxer and not the Duke/RC here. Though the dynamics could very well still be the same. Last edited by ebonho : 24th November 2015 at 09:36. |
Originally Posted by VW2010
(Post 3854381)
I didnt even read that post properly. I am sorry. What i recommended was about 390 but applies to the Gixxer to an extent. I may be bold enough to say something on the bush. I am comparing with the bull and its usually the cam bush at higher RPM that will make a sound on load but usually doesnt feel that bad when the bike is not moving. May even be a piston ring that is getting out of wack at high RPM :) Please share a video to see if we can help with the sound. Love these machines and trouble shooting any machine is always fun. |
hat said, yes, we are also pretty much the most advantageously placed by dint of our ownership experiences to be able to diagnose most abnormal sounds. And feels. |
Originally Posted by VW2010
(Post 3854421)
That disease extends to cars. I found a kink in my Jetta suspension which no one in my family or friends circle could find, nor the service engineer could accept until he agreed to remove and check. The same with my current Fz6R. I told my wife there is a lose bolt. She was absolutely sure it was my imagination till i showed her the actual lose bolt. Thanks to the years of knowing your machines right sound that you know when something is not right. That includes clogged chain, water in carb, weak battery, lose wires under the seat, broken welding or even the lose chain. Habit of just building a "sound" based memory over what we know is working. Its a gift i say :) but thanks to the bulls for sure. I got two rubber tubes to eliminate all the 390 rattles. Hardly could wait to get to that sat to get these vibrations removed. |
Originally Posted by Sheel
(Post 3854321)
If any of our fellow rider/s has swapped/used Metzler as well as Michelin and can point out differences. Metz are better, yes. Or if any earlier post has covered, then a link please :-) |
Originally Posted by barcalad
(Post 3784741)
I have been using the Michelin 150 for the last 4500 kms and till date the treads are still very deep. The tyre looks brand new from every angle. More then cornering and track usage, the sector where the Michelin gets advantage over the Metz is gravel, wet tarmac and sand. Stays steady and secure at all times! As far as cornering goes, I have been mighty impressed by it's performance, even while taking sharp corners at cute speeds. Cosmetically, I feel that it gives out a larger appearance than the Metz, particularly because of it's tread patterns. I have had instances where fellow bikers have asked me plenty of questions just on the tyre! :D Overall, I am more than satisfied by it. Like my ride, it has been complete VFM, or perhaps more than it. As far as the 140 goes, fellow bhpian and mate man_of_steel uses it. He's the best person to comment on it. :) |
Originally Posted by barcalad
(Post 3793870)
I would recommend to run on a combo of Metz Front and Michelin Rear. They're the best and the most lethal combination for the Duke 390. The braking power, grip and dynamics while entering corners that the Metz will offer up front is perhaps unparalleled. As for the rear, Michelin all the way! :) |
Originally Posted by barcalad
(Post 3794834)
Michelin owns the Metz in gravel/slush, which is a reasonable component of your odometer's spins. Moreover, Michelin offers more life than the Metz. It's cheaper too. It makes the rear tyre look big and appealing. On the corners however, nothing even comes close to the Metz. Tarmac behaviour of both is almost the same. As for the front, I know people who have felt insecurities and nervousness while using the Michelin up front, particularly during approaching corners and hard braking. Hence, Metz steals the show here. :) If not the Michelin, I'll probably go with the Pirelli up front. The current Metz still has some life left in it, though. 14k on the odo. |
Originally Posted by mehuel
(Post 3794597)
17000 on rear one:Shockked: I am truly amazed. Mine has completed a little over 7000 kms and its on the way out. As for Michelin. Yes, i had a chance to ride Barcalad's duke equipped with it and I was damn impressed. I just cant find any reason to not go for Michelin when its time to change the rear on mine. Grip level in sand and gravel is exceptional. And no loss of confidence while cornering deep into the turns. I truly believe that for normal road usage/weekend rides these are a better choice. Haven't been to track yet so I wont comment on that. One observation though, on same road after same kind of riding Metz gets twice as hot as Michelin. Thats a good thing when its comes to track I believe. On city roads thats simply burning the rubber.stupid: Availability may be a concerns though. |
Originally Posted by navin_v8
(Post 3853908)
Missed your post on the slipper clutch mate. The slipper clutch indeed is a boon to have as I had mentioned it on some other thread. It's great to see some real feedback from a rider unlike some baloney you hear from old school riders who tend to rely more on their rusty brain can calculate faster than the technology on board. Your experience reinforces the importance of a slipper clutch on such a powerful motorcycle and also how it assists and helps in safety and the overall riding experience. Don't bother about the same old school people who say they don't understand the need for having a slipper clutch, they are either blabbering on their senselessness or behaving like a cry baby for not having it on their existing motorcycles. The drive by wire throttle is another marvel of the modern technology. It gives the rider a quicker and sharper response to the throttle inputs. Again there will be guys who say what is the need for it, who will claim my brain is faster than that. These type of guys should ride and feel how the new technology works rather than blabbering rubbish. |
Originally Posted by barcalad
(Post 3854816)
Here are some of my earlier posts regarding this topic and also that of fellow bhpian mehuel. :) |
Originally Posted by mithunvvijayan
(Post 3854822)
There are a few other things like the 320 mm disc, Aluminium exhaust that I plan to upgrade in the next instalment. |
I do agree with you that modern technologies like ABS, traction control, slip assisted clutch etc helps a lot for average riders (like me). But by switching these control systems off, the lap times can be decreased, of course in the hands of more experienced riders. |
As far as the old school VS modernity goes, I am a bit of both. My dream garage also includes a thoroughly restored RD 350 and a Mahindra Thar. I detest those “urban” SUVs, with their tin can monocoque shells. And I can't stand those crossover mongrels with 4WD on demand or whatever. And I do miss the solid feel of an old bullet, though I don’t agree with it in many ways. |
Originally Posted by ebonho
(Post 3853439)
Is that a hairline crack along the spoke line ? Or are you worried about the superficial chips/gouges near the tyre? |
Originally Posted by MM-58
(Post 3855015)
I checked again after seeing your post. The spokes seem fine. As far as I can tell, it's only the damage near the tyre. All said and done, I'm going to be taking it in for a complete check soon. I just want to prepare myself so that the SVC guys don't spring a nasty surprise on me. |
Originally Posted by mithunvvijayan
(Post 3855061)
There is a quick fix method with which you can determine whether there is any damage to the rim. You could go to any nearby tyre shop and get the wheel balanced. If it is balanced still or requires only a minor weight, then it is in all probability not damaged. IMO this should be done first before taking up the issue with the service center. PS: The earlier balancing weights should not be removed while checking the balance of the wheel. |
Originally Posted by ebonho
(Post 3855112)
Impressed! You guys have two wheeler wheel balancing setups in Cochin? Our here in Pune, we've been fitting new rims that come as replacement spare parts, without weights. I've heard of some guy who does it for superbikes, but will not work on smaller bikes. |
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