[tharian]

It's been couple of months since I updated the thread.
The bike has been going around its business without any issues. I realized if I use the bike regularly, then the starting problem is no longer there. But if I fiddle with the ignition key, by turning it off and kicking and then turning it on and kicking,it works. I feel that is related to the ignition system getting old.

I've reverted to the K&N conical filter enclosed with a intake pipe like I had done couple of years ago as the stock filter had become very restrictive with dirt and I couldn't get a new one since the shop I purchase stuff for the bike moved.
Now the engine is much more responsive and has a bit more grunt for an overtake, but has become rough and jerky too.
Will go back to the stock filter soon as I don't want to strain the engine which is running fine as of now at 1,17,400kms.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by tharian

It's been couple of months since I updated the thread.
The bike has been going around its business without any issues. I realized if I use the bike regularly, then the starting problem is no longer there. But if I fiddle with the ignition key, by turning it off and kicking and then turning it on and kicking,it works. I feel that is related to the ignition system getting old.

When you turn the motor with the ignition off fresh charge gets introduced into the combustion chamber which remains there and is only burnt along with the next cycle where you turn the motor with the ignition on.

So if your motorcycle(when adequately warm) is failing to start on the first kick with ignition on and requires a warm-up kick with the ignition off then that means that your Pilot circuit is running lean.

Going by the age of your motorcycle I'd suggest that you inspect the intake plumbing or cracks, or just proactively change them, would cost peanuts and the peace of mind would be worth it.

I've reverted to the K&N conical filter enclosed with a intake pipe like I had done couple of years ago as the stock filter had become very restrictive with dirt and I couldn't get a new one since the shop I purchase stuff for the bike moved.
Now the engine is much more responsive and has a bit more grunt for an overtake, but has become rough and jerky too.
Will go back to the stock filter soon as I don't want to strain the engine which is running fine as of now at 1,17,400kms.

The RE being a lazy motor wont react as much but still it would be best to stick to stock parts as anything free-flow has a drastic impact on engine life. Not going into the specifics but trust me, even the slightest negligence is enough for the motor to seize provided you ride it far enough.

[tharian]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

When you turn the motor with the ignition off fresh charge gets introduced into the combustion chamber which remains there and is only burnt along with the next cycle where you turn the motor with the ignition on.

So if your motorcycle(when adequately warm) is failing to start on the first kick with ignition on and requires a warm-up kick with the ignition off then that means that your Pilot circuit is running lean.

Going by the age of your motorcycle I'd suggest that you inspect the intake plumbing or cracks, or just proactively change them, would cost peanuts and the peace of mind would be worth it.

It doesn't happen for every start and is regardless of cold or warm engine. If it's a carb setting or cracked intakes,won't it be the case for every start and also affect the running since the engine hardly misses a beat otherwise.
This issue has been actually been ongoing since couple of years now and happens on and off but off late has disappeared.

What I felt was that there is no enough charge created to spark , but I'm not sure what changes when I give few kicks with the ignition off and then try which has worked most of the time.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by tharian

It doesn't happen for every start and is regardless of cold or warm engine. If it's a carb setting or cracked intakes,won't it be the case for every start and also affect the running since the engine hardly misses a beat otherwise.
This issue has been actually been ongoing since couple of years now and happens on and off but off late has disappeared.

Not exactly, air leaks depending on nature seldom act up all the time, they're prone to act-up when the temperature rises as hot air is less dense.

Weirdly sometimes an air leak might even make one feel that the motorcycle is performing better than usual i.e with better throttle response and crispier acceleration, though only for the first couple of hundreds.

It would've been easier to diagnose the same on a motorcycle with a techometer but with a keen ear and some WD40 you could rule this out for good.

What I felt was that there is no enough charge created to spark , but I'm not sure what changes when I give few kicks with the ignition off and then try which has worked most of the time.

I doubt that as inadequate spark voltage is something that becomes more evident as the revs climb, mostly in the form of knocking, misfiring, smoking etc.

I would've suspected battery but since I recall your RE running off an AC CDI I believe that can be ruled out, so if the issue is electrical then it is limited to the alternator, RR, CDI and IC.

First course of action if so would be to check charge rate of alternator, anything below the optimum range and that would clear any doubts.

[tharian]

It is almost like the bike is forgotten and in turn the thread too.

The bike is being hardly used and the last 3 weeks it was sitting idle with the battery disconnected since I was travelling. It has been a while since the bike has been left without firing the engine for long periods.
It fired on the fourth kick with the choke on. Thank God since both my knees were acting up after a busy 3 weeks of travel.

Pumped up the tires and it was back to the usual with no issues. I feel the bike has been neglected as I drive more these days than ride, but that does not show at all when riding the bike.
It feels just like how it always felt probably because it has aged gracefully and there has been no major issues or repairs.

[tharian]

Few days ago being the 16th anniversary of my Enfield purchase and being a holiday, decided to give it a good polish since I hadn't done it in a long while.
Felt lazy, so got the bike pressure washed at a wash place and then polished it at home. I realized then how many years since I have cleaned and wiped the rim especially in between the spokes. The chrome has worn out mostly and I couldn't get the shine.
But the good thing was the chrome on the bend pipe, mudguard and the battery cover, resonator box are all still shining like new.
Same with the paint, it hasn't faded nor lost its shine except for the paint on the tank which was repainted at a local guy.

The mechanicals are working fine with no complaints. That is 16 years and nearing 1,18,000 kms. Engine power seems to taper off at times, but most of the times it is runs more than well for it's engine age but it has it's mood swings. Just like a dog begins to look like his master after few years.
The only annoying part is that the gear shift is hard most of the times and this even after replacing the clutch.

I tried to do a couple of long rides in a year since the use otherwise is reduced and as I realized few days ago, the bike doesn't like heavy traffic riding at all.

Some shots I took after the polishing.

[tharian]

It had been more than 5 months since the last ride and the bike was hardly being used too. Before, the ride, it had done just 3k kms since last August when it was serviced last.

Decided on doing a ride yesterday on a route which I always planned on doing when ever I see the cut off when travelling. It is the connecting highway from Krishnagiri to Palamner and basically connects Salem highway to Chittoor.
I ended up leaving only by midday and couldn't do the full loop which I planned on the go. I started off on Kolar highway and reached Palamner and took the road to Krishnagiri which is a well paved and a wide road with less traffic. The bike was running perfectly and I was keeping the speeds at around 70 kmph. As much as I wanted to go to Krishnagiri and head back via Hosur, i changed my route because I will end up riding in the dark on a very busy highway and end up in bad traffic approaching electronic city.
The roads were difficult to leave and take a deviation since it was that good to ride on and that was 100kms of which I did 35 and cut off to Kolar Gold Fields at V.K Kota and headed back via Bangarapet and Kolar. Now I have a route to complete for the next ride.

Total distance covered was 280 kms with around 28 kmpl and crossed 1,18,000 kms in the process.

[neil.jericho]

There are only 3 constants in life - Death, Taxes and your Royal Enfield Electra chugging along gloriously towards the 1,50,000 km mark!

Its always a pleasure to read your updates on this thread and to see how well the Electra has aged. What mileage does it give you these days?

[tharian]

Originally Posted by neil.jericho

There are only 3 constants in life - Death, Taxes and your Royal Enfield Electra chugging along gloriously towards the 1,50,000 km mark!

Its always a pleasure to read your updates on this thread and to see how well the Electra has aged. What mileage does it give you these days?

Thanks Neil.

I want to see how far I can push it on stock engine internals and I have kept 1.5 lak kms as my target.
I keep reminding my mech not to touch the engine at every annual service until I ask him to.

In city, I get around 24-25 kmpl which has been constant now since few years and on highways it is around 27-28 kmpl.
When the bike was new, I used to get upto 38-39 kmpl which used translate to Rs 1 per km.

[starter]

Not as old as yours, but i have a '06 Electra.
It has also been absolutely reliable. I haven't changed anything other than tyres and battery.
Maybe a few of us just got lucky or maybe the CIs generally got reliable at the end of their run?
Nonetheless, nice to read your updates Tharian.
Cheers,
Deepak

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by tharian

Thanks Neil.

I want to see how far I can push it on stock engine internals and I have kept 1.5 lak kms as my target.
I keep reminding my mech not to touch the engine at every annual service until I ask him to.

In city, I get around 24-25 kmpl which has been constant now since few years and on highways it is around 27-28 kmpl.
When the bike was new, I used to get upto 38-39 kmpl which used translate to Rs 1 per km.

Do test and post cylinder compression when you get the time, it would give you a fair idea of the condition of the motor.

Since sourcing a compression gauge per say is near impossible in India you could get a regular air pressure gauge for 250/- and then makeshift test compression with a tubeless tire valve.

Since you already have the workshop manual in hand you'd get the compression range from there and compare to get a fair idea of how the motor is running.

[tharian]

Originally Posted by starter

Not as old as yours, but i have a '06 Electra.
It has also been absolutely reliable. I haven't changed anything other than tyres and battery.
Maybe a few of us just got lucky or maybe the CIs generally got reliable at the end of their run?
Nonetheless, nice to read your updates Tharian.
Cheers,
Deepak

The CI's that were made post 2002 were quite reliable. I hadn't heard or seen them with their engine stripped like the 500's of the same time. The AVLs were good too apart from the big end bearing that had to be replaced after certain mileage.

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Do test and post cylinder compression when you get the time, it would give you a fair idea of the condition of the motor.

Since sourcing a compression gauge per say is near impossible in India you could get a regular air pressure gauge for 250/- and then makeshift test compression with a tubeless tire valve.

Since you already have the workshop manual in hand you'd get the compression range from there and compare to get a fair idea of how the motor is running.

Will try that. I have a pressure guage. Will figure out the valve part and do it.

[tharian]

Part 2 of the last ride was completed today, from the opposite side.

Blore-Krishnagiri-Kuppam-KGF-Bethamangalam-Bangalore. A total of 265 kms.

Explored some new routes which were worth taking because of good roads. Also got my second puncture on a highway ride since I started riding. The rear went flat while I was doing around 60kmh. Thankfully it wasn't a sudden deflation and I could safely slow down. The tube was a goner and had to get it replaced at a town close by. Continued my ride after an hour delay.

The last stretch, I was keeping some good speeds on the expressway back to Bangalore, which reminded me of my 500. I was cruising at 80kmph for around 50 kms and the bike felt and sounded perfect. There were 150cc bikes and Classics overtaking me easily, but that didn't matter, since that feeling is hard to get always and I was enjoying it.

Next up- 16th annual service and done 1,18,600 kms

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by tharian

Also got my second puncture on a highway ride since I started riding. The rear went flat while I was doing around 60kmh. Thankfully it wasn't a sudden deflation and I could safely slow down. The tube was a goner and had to get it replaced at a town close by. Continued my ride after an hour delay.

Thanks to my Discover 100 4G I've experienced way more flats than the average rider has experienced in his lifetime in a mere timeline of a year of ownership.

1st Experience Ever:



2nd Experience, not so long after the first:



Incidentally I have pictures of the first two times it happened, after which it was as common an occurrence as filling up gas that I'd learned to do it on my own.

Since you travel quite a bit on tubed tires I'd suggest you carry;

1. A pair of tire spoons(Rs.300/-)



Surprisingly the motorcycle variants are super compact, way cheaper when bought locally than online and easily available at any tire shop.

2. Cycle Pump (Rs.150/-)



This is what I use, the regular price is 300/- but at times Decathlon sells it for 150/-, they're a pain to use but super compact compared to the regular pumps which though longer are more convenient to pump and cost the same Rs.150/- when bought locally.

3. Core Remover (Rs.30/-)



Not a must have but saves quite a bit of time.

The rest is obvious, do keep 2 tubes with you at all times and there's no need to carry extra tools as the motorcycles factory toolkit would have the required tools to get the rear wheel off, though you might need to try them first at home to get a hang of them.

Personally with the factory tools on the CT100B I'd have to sit on the ground and use my leg to undo/tighten the axle nut as the leverage is inadequate for me to get it done by hand.

Cheers,
A.P.

[tharian]

It had been just 4k kms since the last oil change which was in October last year.

Although I wanted to drop it off for service only by this year end since the engine oil was in good condition, I decided to give it last week itself and finish it off. This time I asked for only lubricant service since there was nothing else wrong with the bike , apart from the now seasonal starting issue which seems to be due to the alternator.

Clutch oil was replaced with plates cleaned and refitted and adjusted along with gearbox grease topped up. I am not sure which of these affected the shift, but now the gear shift is smooth which I hadn't experienced in a while now. It started when the plates were getting worn out and continued to the new plates probably because the adjustment was not right. With the new engine oil and ABRO oil additive added, the engine has become smooth and silent as well.

On a Cast Iron, the smoothness when the oil is stale ( around 5k kms) is better than when the oil is new. So the bike is good for another year of riding.

Odo is at 1,18,700 kms.