[KarthikK]

Monsoon Ride through the Western Ghats of Karnataka

This is a short travelogue report on a ride a few of us did to the western ghats of Karnataka in peak monsoon season this year. The motive was just to ride through some extreme rains which lash these regions in July and August during the annual monsoon season. It was another matter that this year ended up being an El-Nino drought year with severe deficit of rainfall in Karnataka, so this originally intended monsoon ride ended up becoming a pseudo-summer ride instead.

Nonetheless, we still had fun over a short 4-day trip, hopping between different places from the rainforests of Agumbe to the mist-filled mountains of Coorg, before we made our way back home, over an extended weekend.

Why post on this thread and not create a separate travelogue? Simple - I just feel it is better keeping logs/records of trips done embedded in the ownership review threads of those specific vehicles here on the forum, for ease of reference later and to retain chronological logs of activities undertaken with those vehicles. Now, I don't have an ownership review for my FZ25 yet, so I'll post my trip report in this famous ownership review thread of neil.jericho's GT535. By the way, the almost-decade-old RE GT535 participated in this ride and it was a pleasure riding with the experienced veteran neil.jericho through the entire route we had ahead of us for those four days. Please excuse me for posting a few snaps of my own bike more than the GT535 itself, lol!

Piggybacking over neil.jericho's ownership thread for this trip report - hey there are many pictures of the stalwart in this report anyway , but let's start with one of him posing with his trusted steed, all back from the mid-life resurrection he has given it recently



Apart from neil.jericho and myself, there were 2 other BHPian friends who joined the ride - ebmrajesh on his KTM 390 Adventure and csentil on his RE Meteor 350.

The plan was a simple one -
Day 1 - We would ride to Agumbe over a longer route via Kottigehara
Day 2 - Agumbe to Kalasa and Samse via Kudremukh forest
Day 3 - Samse to Charmadi ghat to Subramanya and Sullia to take Sampaje ghat and finally hit Madikeri (Coorg)
Day 4 - Leisurely return journey via Madikeri - Mysore - Bangalore

We were mostly riding through 70-80% of the day, stopping at quaint little homestays for the night and resuming the next day's hopping route all over again.

For this ride, for a change I chose my humble city commuter - the trusty Yamaha FZ25, and enjoyed the simple, linear power delivery, feather-light weight and balanced suspension setup (excellent handling vs ride quality balance) through the host of terrains we made our way through. Since I was solo this time, I just carried all the luggage in my trusted Viaterra Raptor tailbag, it took everything in including the rain gear I carried along, just in case we were in for some extreme rains en route.

On Day 1, we decided to leave Bangalore early to beat the long weekend rush on the highway. This was me waiting at our usual meetup point - the LCA Jet in CBD Cubbon park as early as 4.30AM.



Bangalore to Hassan was an uneventful ride on the expressway for ~200km. We stopped at Empire Hassan, for a sumptuous breakfast of varied south Indian dishes



csentil and myself, waiting for neil.jericho and ebmrajesh to catch up outside Hassan on the ring road.



A picture after neil.jericho joined us



The lovely backdrop behind the bikes



Stopping to admire some views amidst the coffee estates through which the road wound its way



The tiny but capable Yamaha FZ25 - was a hoot to ride and put through its paces in the hills. Runs out of steam on expressways but in the countryside and the mountains this is a delightful machine to ride hard



neil.jericho and ebmrajesh discussing cornering tactics on a RE vs on a KTM



Some cold coffee to savour in Ibbani Cafe, one of our usual haunts when passing by on this route



The impromptu parking lot at Ibbani Cafe



The star of this travelogue and owner of this review thread - neil.jericho with his famous RE GT535



Stopping somewhere between Aldur and Balehonnur en route to Agumbe





Gopro onboard shot - following neil.jericho's GT535 and csentil's Meteor 350



Riding through Malnad's rural villages, albeit with no rain



It was all green and blue skies for company, instead of Grey clouds, lol!



A rear shot of the FZ25



Stopping at Jayapura bridge en route to Agumbe





Tunga river making its way through the parched lands here



The FZ in hot pursuit of the GT535 and the 390 Adv





There were some traces of rain from this point, so out came the raincoats and luggage rain covers





The GT535 getting a thorough mountain terrain running-in after its last major service



We reached our homestay around 3PM, for a late lunch and with some time to kill in the late afternoon and evening. This place was called Muduvalli Heritage homestay.



We had 2 rooms, one with 4 single beds and another with 2 beds. This was the one with 4 beds, with just 2 of us occupying it and with plenty of space to stash away our biker gear and luggage



The simple dining room of Muduvalli Heritage homestay



Simple food was served here for all the meals that we had here. Nothing wow, but nothing bad either.



The central courtyard open-to-the-air, outside our rooms

[KarthikK]

Monsoon Ride through the Western Ghats of Karnataka continued...

Post-lunch, we rode to a hill nearby called Kundadri peak.
The lovely narrow B and C road twisties around Agumbe region






The hill roads were patchy and very steep inclines in many areas leading to the top. Here are some go-pro shots from en route.



There wasn't much to do on the top, the place was crowded with a lot of tourists, so we stopped for a brief while and then left from there. View from the top of Kundadri peak.



An old jain temple and natural pond on the top of the hill



The bikes taking a break after descending



While we got back to the homestay after the outing to Kundadri hill, some hot chai and Pakoras awaited us



It was a long day, so we soon wound up and retired to bed early that night after a sumptuous dinner.

On day 2, I woke up early and strolled around the property while the others still caught some shut-eye. Here are some sights from around the homestay - hardly even looks like August weather, but such is the unpredictability of weather patterns nowadays, sadly! Morning sun streaming through an Areca nut plantation



An old well covered in moss



Areca nut plantations all around



I was feeling a bit bored, so I took the bike out for some shots in the morning light







A pair of water lilies blooming



The ancestral house of the homestay owner, adjoining the property where we were staying



Soon it was time for breakfast, once everyone wound up and was ready to leave, we departed the homestay for the rather long journey through Agumbe - Kudremukh zone to reach our destination for Day 2 - Kalasa. Here is a shot of the group departing our stay in Agumbe



Some road work was going on between Agumbe and Sringeri, but it was a short patch



There were some brief intermittent spells of heavy rain in Kudremukh forest zone. Since that zone was a no-stop zone for passing vehicles, we didn't stop much anywhere. Here are some onboard shots of the FZ enjoying the narrow twisties in Kudremukh national park







Stopping at a viewpoint after Kudremukh forest zone







ebmrajesh trying his hand at green camouflage with the background



Some more shots of the bikes and the views before we exited this route onward to Kalasa

[KarthikK]

Monsoon Ride through the Western Ghats of Karnataka continued...

The FZ25 attacking some corners in the remainder of the Kudremukh twisties





Stopping at some foggy sections for timepass clicks







The 390 Adv and FZ25 stopping between Kudremukh and Kalasa



We had to stop at 'Sujai Point', nicknamed so after BHPian CrAzY_dRiVeR discovered this place in 2018. Unfortunately the stream which flows here during monsoons was totally empty in August . We stopped for some pictures nonetheless



What should have been a gushing stream in peak monsoon months, totally dried up in August, what a pity!



The blue FZ25 with neil.jericho's GT535



We stopped for lunch at a restaurant just before Kalasa town. When in Karnataka, never forget to order Gobi Manchurian when waiting for main course to arrive , it is staple diet here, lol!



Post-lunch we set off from Kalasa to our homestay, called Thangaali homestay, located on the top of a hillock at a good elevation off Kelagur estate area. Reaching the homestay by 3.30-4PM



The cottages were set along the hill, with staircase approaches like these



The rooms were simple yet functional, clean and spacious



Bonus of the location - This was the view from the balconies of our rooms



There was this area to enjoy the views while enjoying some hot snacks and chai/coffee





This 3-wheeler chap who came to deliver some supplies to the homestay, was also a team-BHP fan (check out the fake LTD sticker)



After a light dinner and some chit-chat sessions on all things automobile and travel related, we called it a day and retired by 10PM that night. The following morning, neil.jericho and myself woke up early and set out for a short walk along the tea estates surrounding the property.

These two friendly dogs had settled around the previous night's bonfire for warmth in the cool weather, and when they saw us stepping out, they joined us as route guides



Some pictures of the views from the roads and trails around Thangaali homestay











Some shots of the FZ with the background of the valley below the mountains





Soon it was time for breakfast and ensuing departure after that, for Day 3's ride from Kalasa to Madikeri via Charmadi and Sampaje Ghat sections. Not without a picture with the group in front of Thangaali homestay



The group making its way along Kalasa - Kelagur - Kottigehara - Charmadi ghat





Charmadi ghat section descent begins



neil.jericho with the GT535, enjoying every bit of the twisties on his prized Cafe racer

[KarthikK]

Monsoon Ride through the Western Ghats of Karnataka continued...

Some onboard shots of Charmadi ghat's twisties from the FZ25. Sadlly there wasn't even a hint of rains, forget our dreams of riding in heavy rains and mist







Stopping to admire the views of the green carpet mountain range of Charmadi in the background



Soon as we descended the ghat section and proceeded along the forest section through Subramanya and Dharmasthala, the afternoon sun came out in all its glory. We needed a couple of stops to hydrate ourselves with some soda at lovely rustic shops such as these



We stopped for lunch at a rustic seafood restaurant in Sullia town, called Hotel Mamatha.

Me being a vegetarian, settled for this simple Neer Dosa and Egg Curry



The non-veggies in the group (read as the other three) had their share of seafood at this place, in many local formulations and dishes such as these



Post lunch at Sullia, we ascended the ghats again, this time we took Sullia - Sampaje ghats to climb up the western ghats of Coorg, to reach our next destination - Madikeri in Coorg. Treading along the sunny roads of Sullia - Sampaje in this pic



We reached Madikeri by early evening amidst a steady drizzle which started around the time we gained some altitude approaching Madikeri town. Reaching Madikeri amidst wet roads and a drizzle - finally some rain on Day 3!



The simple rooms at KSTDC Mayura Valley View, Madikeri



Even these rooms were set on a hilltop and overlooked the valley below, providing for wonderful views at different times of the day





In the late evening, we ordered some junk food snacks to enjoy some evening tea and coffee in KSTDC's restaurant while watching the now-heavy thundershowers do their tiny cameo.



At night, it had stopped raining so we stepped out on foot to explore some traditional Coorg cuisine at an authentic home-run restaurant called Tiger Tiger. I don't have any food pictures of what the carnivores in the group had, but here is a picture of what I just settled for - a simple vegetarian meal they had an offer



This lovely homemade dessert of Passion fruit jelly with ice cream was a nice touch to end the simple yet wholesome meal



After this dinner and walk, we ended the night on Day 3. The following morning, neil.jericho and myself stepped out to Raja Seat, a viewpoint nearby adjacent to our hotel. There wasn't much to see around, apart from the view of the park and the valley. The valley view wasn't too different from what we anyway could see at our hotel





It was a sunny morning back at the hotel



Simple but sumptuous breakfast at KSTDC Mayura's restaurant



After breakfast, we refueled our bikes for the return journey and departed Madikeri around 9.30AM. The FZ waiting for the others to regroup somewhere netween Madikeri and Kushalnagar



We stopped for lunch at a restaurant called M Pro Palace, located on Mysore ring road. Getting adventurous with Sizzlers in M Pro Palace



After this quick lunch stop in Mysore, we departed homewards to Bangalore. Since Mysore - Bangalore expressway is now out of bounds for motorbikes, we had to take the Mysore - Bannur - Malavalli - Kanakapura - Bangalore highway to finally reach Bangalore by evening, to bring the curtains down on an enjoyable 4-day trip through the western ghats of Malnad.

That brings this short travelogue to an end, hope the thread owner also adds his version of the trip report to relive the memories. Thanks for reading!

[neil.jericho]

A special word of appreciation for TBHPian KarthikK for painstakingly updating this thread with the details of the multi-day Chasing The Rain Clouds (Away) mega monsoon ride, in his trademark information packed and photograph loaded style. Since he has done an excellent job with capturing the day wise details of the trip, I will restrict myself to a few short notes on each day's adventures, along with 8 photographs from each day.

Day 1 : Bangalore to Agumbe

While we encountered very little actual rain during our time on the road, we did enjoy every minute of the motorcycling that we did. We had wide open highways, winding country roads and everything else in between. For a brief spell, the overcast rain clouds were on the verge of bursting out into heavy showers but after we put on our rain gear, it took all of 30 seconds of riding, to find ourselves in sunny conditions. This was one of those days! The Royal Enfield Continental GT 535 was absolutely in its element on these winding back roads, where the abundant torque was frequently called into play.

Highlight of the day : A signboard in Kannada near the home stay which warned people from getting off their bikes, as the surrounding forest is full of King Cobras!

A promising start. A sky full of rain clouds at 6 AM on Day 1


The riders taking a short break at one of the toll booths


A stop during which it started drizzling


Within no time, it was back to warm sunshine


The wet roads were throwing up a fascinating spray


This is the route that Google Maps insists that you take to reach the home stay


The amazing view from Kundadri peak


Who doesnt love roads like this?

[neil.jericho]

Day 2 : Agumbe to Kalasa

Anyone who has travelled through the Kudremukh region will tell you how spectacularly beautiful it us. However, the road conditions were far from awesome. I will admit to occasionally wishing that I was on a true blue adventure motorcycle like the Himalayan 411, as I could have comfortably stood and ridden through the bad sections of the road.

Fortunately, we got some heavy showers on the way to compensate for the limited rains on day 1. The home stay was fairly simple but the view from the rooms was fantastic. Photographs do not do it justice!

Highlight of the day : The bedlam that the thousands of cicadas created in the evening was something that was hard to forget.

Filling up petrol in a small town


You have to collect a token before entering the Kudremukh region and it has to be returned when you exit from the other side


The bikes and riders taking a breather


Near Sujai point


The view from the home stay. Magnificent!


Our new found friend and guide for the stroll on day 3


The parking lot of the home stay


The bonfire was a nice way to end the day

[neil.jericho]

Day 3 : Kalasa to Madikeri

Once again, we were back to riding in rather warm and humid conditions. The pre-lunch soda break was a well deserved one! Im not a big fan of having heavy meals while on day long rides but the lunch at Hotel Mamatha was unexpectedly lovely. The irony was that in terms of motorcycling bliss, the section from Sullia to Madikeri was easily the best of the entire trip! Our evening stroll through Madikeri was shared with hundreds of other tourists who were enjoying the extended weekend, like we were.

Highlight of the day : TBHPian ebmrajesh and me blitzing our way to Madikeri after our heavy lunch. All that sea food intake wasnt going to slow us down!

Glorious morning views


With our faithful friend


Time to quench our thirst


We werent alone


Sumptuous lunch!


Not the fine dining restaurant that you might have expected


The view from our hotel


The bikes getting some light showers

[neil.jericho]

Day 4 : Madikeri to Bangalore

This was yet another super sunny day on what was supposed to be a mega monsoon ride! Somewhere along the way, we lost track of each other and hence, we stopped mid way to Mysore to regroup. Our lunch break in Mysore took forever because they kept messing up my order. Lesson learnt, going forward I'll continue to play it safe and order a biriyani, like I usually do.

We took the Kanakapura route back to Bangalore, hoping to avoid the mayhem of the long weekend return to Bangalore. It was a gamble that paid off, as we made fairly good progress, all the way back to the city. Eventually, the chaotic traffic ended up splitting our group on the outskirts of the city and we returned to our respective homes, happy that we were back safely. So what if it didnt rain like we expected it to!!!!

A temple near our hotel


The bikes gleaming in the morning sun


We enjoyed a nice breakfast


Waiting for csentil and his super charged Meteor 350


The view from the restaurant


Our time consuming lunch


Water break on the way to Kanakapura


Hey, where did the rest of the group go?

[rajeevsulu]

Lovely pictures. I think this is a sign of the times we live in. Unpredictable weather. We are going to see extreme weather conditions going on. Where I live, it is 100° F and we are almost into November. I was in Yercaud last week and the mid day heat was sweltering. No rains.Nice pictures and nice write up as always, rain or no rain.
Cheers

[CrAzY dRiVeR]

Beautiful travelogue guys. I am not sure why I had to sit this one out - forgot it now - guess I was at Trivandrum?

Anyways these pictures sure made me repent on missing out. Except for the no-show for monsoons (as is usual whenever Karthik plans a monsoon ride!), the whole ride looks like a perfect weekend getaway.

I'm surely in for the next one! Fingers crossed

[hifisharu]

Originally Posted by KarthikK

Monsoon Ride through the Western Ghats of Karnataka

Stopping at Jayapura bridge en route to Agumbe
Attachment 2514786

This picture reminded me of our ride to Sringeri and Kuduremukha in 2009, at the same bridge

[neil.jericho]

This thread is typically filled with my posts on different rides, the occasional exhibition of the machine's umm character and other motorcycling related updates. In a departure from the norm, here are some Generative AI renderings of a yellow Continental GT 535 motorcycle, with some twists. Thanks to the nature of my work, I got to experiment with different Gen AI models and when you truly understand what they can do, you are probably in for a really depressing day! But, that is a discussion for another thread and another time. For now, back to motorcycling!

[neil.jericho]

A few months ago, when the newest Ninja 400 on the forum (Living an evolved dream: My 2019 Kawasaki Ninja 1000 ownership review. Edit: 5 years up!) was still relatively fresh out of the showroom, TBHPian Karthik and I headed off on an early morning Sunday ride. Unfortunately, none of the other usual suspects were able to join us. This was my first experience of getting to see the very capable and sporty Kawasaki Ninja 400 on Indian roads. The ride to our breakfast point was ahem, rather brisk. Our only point of bother came when some WorldSBK racers zoomed past us, some of them rather carelessly, during their record breaking laps. After a typical South Indian breakfast, we took a few pictures and returned to Bangalore.

All in all, a nice Sunday ride with very good company.

P.S - A little birdie tells me that KarthikK might be penning down another of his epic ownership threads. I hope that it is for the Ninja 400!

Side by side ....




These proportions are just right!


Rocking my Royal Enfield leather jacket


KarthikK on the Ninja 400

[neil.jericho]

The following weekend, the group's breakfast ride plan was to head towards the town of Halagur for some of their famous wood fired idlis. This time, our group consisted of KarthikK on his Honda CB500X, a friend on the forum's favourite Kawasaki Versys 650 and me, on the Royal Enfield Continental GT 535. The highway to Kanakapura is still under construction but we were able to make good use of the stretches which were complete. After crossing Kanakapura, we pulled over for some pictures and some comically mild rough roading.

Catching the morning sun

The breakfast was every bit as amazing as it promised to be. There really is something to be said for the authentic flavours that you get from these tranditionally prepared dishes. Though nobody talks about their dosas, I quite enjoyed them.

For foodies who are based out of Bangalore, a visit to this small restaurant in Halagur is an absolute must!

Stacked up


All set


The wood fire setup


Not the fine dining experience that you might expect


Lived up to the hype


And this surprised me!

[neil.jericho]

Over the past couple of months, I've had to visit Gear & Gear Motorcycles for some simple tasks to be done. First, I had to get the chain tightened before a weekend ride.

A few weeks later, while returning from one of the usual breakfast rides, I felt that the front end wasn't feeling as firmly planted as it normally did. The team confirmed that the cone set needed some tightening.

On both occasions, I called up the previous evening and booked an appointment. I was asked to come in early (11 AM) and the team sorted me out within 10 - 15 minutes. IIRC the cost of the 2 visits came to Rs 150 and Rs 250 respectively. The quality of workmanship is good and the garage isnt crowded. I just wish that it was closer to my home!