[ArizonaJim]

Romins
Something that can cause the maximum voltage at the battery to be lower than it might be when the engine is running fast is a higher than normal resistance at one or more of the wiring connectors.
Over time, especially in an area that has high levels of humidity, corrosion can develop inside the connectors. If this happens, the higher resistance will reduce the apparent output of the alternator.

To reduce the likelihood of this happening, I suggest disconnecting the wiring connectors that lead from the alternator to the regulator/rectifier and the r/r to the battery, one at a time. The act of disconnecting them will usually remove any corrosion that has developed but if you see one that has a obvious buildup, gently scrape the metal surfaces with a knife.
While the connectors are disconnected it would be a good idea to apply a very thin coating of dielectric grease to the metal contacts and then reassemble them. This will protect them from further problems.

Please note: When disconnecting the wiring connectors, always grasp them by the connector. Never pull on the wire's.

[Romins]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

You have only two areas to look at, problem is either at the source i.e Stator+RR Unit or Excess Draw.

A multi meter and the patience to diagnose your charging system would give you a clear picture of what's at fault.
A.P.

The problem was with the source, stator coil was not good. Out of the three points from stator coil, two points were showing only 10V whereas the other two points were showing 80V. Surprised that a new part is not working fine! Anyways, I got replaced the stator coil at Highlander without extra cost. Bought. New battery as well. Battery was not getting charged since January first week (did around 1000km after bench charging) and it was the first factory fitted battery (2017). Bench charging for two days didn't help.

Do we need to check the gravity of MF batteries? I had been to multiple electrical experts in Bangalore and one guy said 220 is the expected gravity, and my battery was showing only 160.

[Romins]

Some updates on this:

I got the meter fixed at an FNG - Moto Avventura, BTM, Bangalore. Prajosh is an expert in mechanical, electrical and electronics components of automobiles.

The display cable of the meter was damaged. He used another display unit from one of the many scrap meters he stocks up. He had to try with a few of them and it took a few hours to get it fixed with soldering and de-soldering the units.

Being passionate about electronics he services ECUs for high end cars as well. When I visited him, he was fixing the A/T ECU of a Skoda, which might cost a bomb to replace , a part made by Bosch in Hungary. I strongly recommend Prajosh if you are looking for someone to fix the electrical and electronics parts, which many mechanics don't have expertise to work on.

[Sumedik]

Interesting thread !

Originally Posted by srini1785

I would categorize motorcycles into three categories

1. Only kick start commuter bikes.
2. Kick and self start commuter bikes.
3. Club class, self start only bigger touring bikes.

For categories 1 and 2, an alternator with RR should be sufficient to START & RUN the bike even without a battery. That said, the performance without a battery would be lousy.

Hi Srini, why would the performance be lousy?

[TM_Turbo]

Hi All

I have a strange problem with my thunderbird twin spark 2009 model, battery was overcharging (17-18) with 2-3k rpm and then I changed the rr unit to a new oem product but still the voltage remains same, the AC voltage coming from stator reads 30-60v in idle and goes up to 100v with full throttle

Not sure if this is an issue, can someone help me in identifying the issue