[ManasN95]

A small update:

I changed the air filter, oil to Shell Rimula R4 and Yamaha FZ Oil filter, along with replacing the broken windscreen with stock.



The oil inlet washer was damaged and leaking oil, that was changed too.



The Shell Advanced Ultra which was in the CBR before, was almost dark red, but still very runny, could have gone another 1000 KMs or so.

The vibrations have increased, especially in the top end, due to the obvious difference after putting in mineral oil, but I hope they reduce by the time oil sets in.

A major service is due, which I might carry out in March.

One concern: Please refer the attached photo below. Should I be concerned?

[aargee]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

One concern: Please refer the attached photo below. Should I be concerned?

A little yes; but the hack is, as long as you keep the engine oil level in the middle, it shouldn't be a trouble. On long trips (read more than 200 Km round trip,) keep a few 100-200 ml oil handy. I had even worse condition than this & was doing Chennai - Bangalore round trip. I was topping up before every trip although sometimes it wasn't necessary.

[ManasN95]

Originally Posted by aargee

A little yes; but the hack is, as long as you keep the engine oil level in the middle, it shouldn't be a trouble. .

Okay! Thank You. But is there something I should to solve it permanently? I guess requires engine head to be opened to change the gasket?

I could club this with the next service due.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

Okay! Thank You. But is there something I should to solve it permanently?

First the problem has to be diagnosed. If it's the worn out gasket, then yes it has to be replaced. You've to open the right fairings to see from where the oil is leaking. In my case, it wasn't head gasket, it was somewhere else, I think it was the crankcase sealing & the oil was spilling up to head & as well as dripping at the bottom.

[ManasN95]

I'm contemplating trying out the Castrol Power1 Ultimate on the CBR after I'm done with 1500 KMs on the Shell Rimula R4.

A lot of noise on the channels about the oil, I have never used Castrol before myself on any of the vehicles.

Some reputed people like Sagar Sheldekar and a Youtuber called SportzTourer giving the Ultimate a thumbs up (maybe biased).

First I'll try on my 11 year old Aviator to judge before trying on the CBR.

Anybody here has any suggestions/advice/experiences?

[neil.jericho]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

I'm contemplating trying out the Castrol Power1 Ultimate on the CBR after I'm done with 1500 KMs on the Shell Rimula R4.

A lot of noise on the channels about the oil, I have never used Castrol before myself on any of the vehicles.

Some reputed people like Sagar Sheldekar and a Youtuber called SportzTourer giving the Ultimate a thumbs up (maybe biased).

First I'll try on my 11 year old Aviator to judge before trying on the CBR.

Anybody here has any suggestions/advice/experiences?

I dont really watch his videos, but I believe Sagar's channel is sponsored by Castrol. Im not saying that biases his experiences, but it is something to be aware of.

Personally, I have used Castrol Power 1 on my Yamaha R15 several years ago. I found the equivalent Motul engine oils to run better, for longer. There was nothing wrong with the Castrol per se, but the Motul oil were clearly superior.

[swiftnfurious]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

...A lot of noise on the channels about the oil, I have never used Castrol before myself on any of the vehicles.

Some reputed people like Sagar Sheldekar and a Youtuber called SportzTourer giving the Ultimate a thumbs up (maybe biased).

First I'll try on my 11 year old Aviator to judge before trying on the CBR.

Anybody here has any suggestions/advice/experiences?

I have seen good reviews for Castrol 10w40 fully synthetic for CBR 250 (as well as Versys 650). Not sure what's the brand name that retail under.

[swiftnfurious]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

...Anybody here has any suggestions/advice/experiences?

I may have made a mistake - Sorry about that. I believe I confused Shell with that of Castrol - Its the Shell FS engine oil which has good reviews for both CBR & Versys. I was trying to validate after I posted.

Originally Posted by swiftnfurious

I have seen good reviews for Castrol 10w40 fully synthetic for CBR 250 (as well as Versys 650). Not sure what's the brand name that retail under.

[ManasN95]

Hi everyone, updating status here after a long time.

I had bought my CBR pre-owned in 2018 December, when the odometer was 800 KMs.

Now it is only at 11,000 KMs as I'm not able to justify her capabilities, but I intend to keep her for another 6-7 months.

Hogging some golden information from Shiv18's thread, I have been using the Shell Rimula R4, and I'm on the third round of the oil currently, plus I've done the earth wire mod ages ago too.

She was only serviced once in my ownership, but very thoroughly, and it was done in January, 2020.

Since it's been more than an year since she is serviced, I'm going to get her comprehensively serviced again in a month or two.

She is feeling rough now, owing to constant jumps from mineral oil to fully synthetic, hence the shim tolerances have been out of limits I feel.

​​​​​​So here is a list of the work I'm targetting to do, either in one go or in parts over the course next two months.

1) Engine Oil change - Shell Rimula has run 750 KMs right now, I'll be changing around 1000 KMs. I'm contemplating trying the Castrol Power1 Ultimate.

2) Engine Oil Filter - Currently on Yamaha FZ filter, will switch back to OEM.

3) Chain - Will remove the chain off the swingarm and give it a thorough cleaning and removing the rusting segments. Currently satisfied with the Diesel and Gear Oil combo for maintenance.

4) Air Filter - Changed only recently. Will recheck the condition.

5) Spark Plug cleaning
6) Fork Oil replacement - Last fill was haphazard. Didn't fill the required quantity of 330 ml (IIRC) of the Motul Heavy Fork Oil.

7) Brake Maintenance - Brakes are juddering and screeching. Thorough cleaning required. Brake Pads changed in the January 2020 service, aren't used up much. Brakes need proper lubrication.

With the brake system, I may also replace the brake fluid. Currently on Motul DOT 4. Any superior brake oil than this? Please suggest.

8) Coolant - May change if required, as preventive maintenance as she's on the same coolant for 3 years. Any suggestions?

9) CBR is running a little rich, I think. There's a lot of popping on deceleration. Please suggest steps to be taken. I'm thinking of cleaning the O2 sensor with kerosene.

10) Engine bolts tightening, and overall fibre parts check up. Replacing damaged push locks, or making use of two side tape whenever deemed necessary.

11) Rear suspension lubrication, there is a very prominent thud (maybe a loose bolt somewhere) whenever I skip past sudden potholes.

12) Maybe a change of clutch and accelerator cables as they too are 4 years old.

13) Two major issues is the shim clearances, and the never ending rattle sound when I accelerate, pointing to the Cam Chain Tensioner. The CCT was changed during the last service, I hope it can be re-tightened?

14) General WD-40 spraying of all the terminals and replacing rusted bolts with S.S ones.


I hope I have covered all the points as I feel one comprehensive service in a year of low running like mine, is more than enough.

Please advise.

Also NOTE: I'll NOT be carrying out this service at the Honda SVC like last time, but at an FNG called GarageUncle with good reviews.

Please advise as to if it's okay to carry out all the points of service with an FNG or do I need to take her to SVC for some of them.

As I've seen, they (GarageUncle) carry out engine work too.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

9) CBR is running a little rich, I think. There's a lot of popping on deceleration. Please suggest steps to be taken. I'm thinking of cleaning the O2 sensor with kerosene

Boss, O2 sensor is an electronic device & you want to clean it with Kerosene??? Anyway, how do you know it's running rich or lean in first place? Please elucidate, because I haven't bothered on it in last decade.

Originally Posted by ManasN95

11) Rear suspension lubrication, there is a very prominent thud (maybe a loose bolt somewhere) whenever I skip past sudden potholes

Is it possible? Because I've replaced one at 85K & after that nothing

Originally Posted by ManasN95

13) Two major issues is the shim clearances, and the never ending rattle sound when I accelerate, pointing to the Cam Chain Tensioner. The CCT was changed during the last service, I hope it can be re-tightened?

Replace, replace, replace!! Replace SHIM & if possible, stay with the technician when they do it. Their lack of time & carelessness is what causes this problem. If they tighten to HMSI's spec, then each replacement interval should last some 35K

Originally Posted by ManasN95

Please advise

Check owner's manual, it has even more detailed out for every 6K interval service. How about radiator hoses etc? They should easily last for 5-6 years, not sure how they're at present in your bike. Replace the chain slider instead of cleaning it, IF, you're replacing the chain sprocket kit.

[camitesh]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

Please advise as to if it's okay to carry out all the points of service with an FNG or do I need to take her to SVC for some of them.

As I've seen, they (GarageUncle) carry out engine work too.

Wow, that's a comprehensive list buddy but not really sure if most of it is really needed for such a low run CBR as yours.

Anyways, some of these repairs I wouldn't suggest getting it done at GarageUncle(shim, O2 sensor etc.) unless you have personal experience with them. Few months back I did go to them for a very simple work (accelerator cable change) after a minor accident since they are located very close to where I stay. While they did the replacement with finesse, the cable was still getting stuck (exact reason why I was replacing the old cable in first place) and I was told by their mech that the cable will get free with use. Well it didn't and I eventually had to go to my trusted FNG for a solution who identified a noticeable bend in the handle bar as the culprit in a minute and he was right indeed. The old cable never needed a replacement, the handlebar did.

The shim work is something I wouldn't advice getting it done at a FNG as you never know what sizes of shim may be needed. Some FNGs do claim they can machine it there and then as per the needed size but I have no experience in this regard. Do PM if you are at GarageUncle, I may just drop by to say hello if I'm around.

[ManasN95]

Originally Posted by aargee

Boss, O2 sensor is an electronic device & you want to clean it with Kerosene??? Anyway, how do you know it's running rich or lean in first place? Please elucidate, because I haven't bothered on it in last decade.

Is it possible? Because I've replaced one at 85K & after that nothing


Replace, replace, replace!! Replace SHIM & if possible, stay with the technician when they do it. Their lack of time & carelessness is what causes this problem. If they tighten to HMSI's spec, then each replacement interval should last some 35K


Check owner's manual, it has even more detailed out for every 6K interval service. How about radiator hoses etc? They should easily last for 5-6 years, not sure how they're at present in your bike. Replace the chain slider instead of cleaning it, IF, you're replacing the chain sprocket kit.

Hello Sir, this piece of information about the O2 sensor was provided from a very knowledgable guy from one of my groups, who has owned and working on a CBR since long. I am not saying it is 100% correct, hence put it up here so as to cross check before proceeding. If I can't come to a conclusion, I won't do it.

About the SHIMS, and the CCT, sorry if I got you wrong, but are you asking me to replace the CCT too, or retighten it to HMSC specs? I will take your advise, and carry out the SHIM job at the SVC only.

And yes, I will go through the manual for any more points of check I missed, and add them likewise.

Originally Posted by camitesh

Wow, that's a comprehensive list buddy but not really sure if most of it is really needed for such a low run CBR as yours.

Do PM if you are at GarageUncle, I may just drop by to say hello if I'm around.

Yes, it is a big list, because as I said, some of it is as preventive maintenance, and maybe some unnecessary, but the satisfaction, you know it.

And thank you for your review of the GarageUncle team, I may carry out sensitive jobs at the SVC after all.

I do hope to meet you soon.

[Doo_Dev]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

1) Engine Oil change - Shell Rimula has run 750 KMs right now, I'll be changing around 1000 KMs. I'm contemplating trying the Castrol Power1 Ultimate.

Changing the oil and oil filter after 1000km is a overkill. For the typical usage conditions, 3000km is a reasonable ( you can go higher that 3K if you keep topping up). Unless you have to change oil because of repair works such as clutch change etc , changing after 1K kms is money down the drain.

Originally Posted by ManasN95

7) Brake Maintenance - Brakes are juddering and screeching. Thorough cleaning required. Brake Pads changed in the January 2020 service, aren't used up much. Brakes need proper lubrication.
With the brake system, I may also replace the brake fluid. Currently on Motul DOT 4. Any superior brake oil than this? Please suggest.

Brake judder and screeching can also due to small stones stuck between pad and disc. Rotate the wheel on paddock stand and confirm because 11 k is bit early to have brake issues.

Originally Posted by ManasN95

11) Rear suspension lubrication, there is a very prominent thud (maybe a loose bolt somewhere) whenever I skip past sudden potholes.

If it is a loose bolt, you should observe erratic behavior on all potholes and even normal running would be uneasy. Since it is issue only when skipping sudden potholes, the preload setting could have been set to soft . So check the preload settings in the rear suspension. What do you mean by suspension lubrication ? I have never done this and mine is a 2012 model.

Originally Posted by ManasN95

13) Two major issues is the shim clearances, and the never ending rattle sound when I accelerate, pointing to the Cam Chain Tensioner. The CCT was changed during the last service, I hope it can be re-tightened?

Noise due to Shim clearance and Cam chain Tensioner will be different . I don't think there is nothing there to tighten in the chain tensioner as this is automatic adjustment.
If is shim clearance , changing is the better option.

Even for preventive maintenance , many of the items are an overkill. If this is suggested by a mechanic, i would ask to change the mechanic.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by ManasN95

Hello...conclusion, I won't do it

Sir, either O2 sensor works, or it doesn't; mine went kaput around 1065xx Km (I didn't know then) The FE had dropped to 26 while I was usually getting 32+ Kmpl. I was doing same Chennai - Bangalore - Chennai, nearly same time, consuming nearly same hours, same week of day, week after week after month after month. I immediately told ASC about O2 sensor, but they insisted stating the O2 sensor is expensive & they were looking cheaper alternative replacing one after another. This episodes went on until 1194xx for nearly a year. Finally I took the risk & they replaced & guess what? I was right. I started getting 35 Kmpl (now dropped to 32 Kmpl on ATC Aargee's testing conditions)

Originally Posted by ManasN95

and the CCT

Sir, what is CCT please?

Originally Posted by ManasN95

carry out the SHIM job at the SVC only

Please, don't go anywhere else for shim replacement & if you've a good rapport, stay with them when they do the shim job

Originally Posted by ManasN95

Yes, it is a big list, because as I said, some of it is as preventive maintenance, and maybe some unnecessary, but the satisfaction, you know it

Totally agree; I don't like a single ride be it 3 Km or 3000 Km to be spoiled just because of bike's poor maintenance. It's not the bike that fails, I fail!! Many times, I've taken out my vehicles on emergency & important occasion & that time, I need the vehicle to be as reliable to do it's job, otherwise, there's no point in having the vehicle.

For instance, the ASC might say, the clutch cable might withhold for another 2-3K more, but, as humans, we don't visit the ASC after 2-3K & it's also waste of our time, it's better replacing it rather than paying another visit to replace the cable.

[ManasN95]

Originally Posted by aargee

Sir, either O2 sensor works, or it doesn't/I])

Sir, what is CCT please?

Please, don't go anywhere else for shim replacement & if you've a good rapport, stay with them when they do the shim job

it's better replacing it rather than paying another visit to replace the cable.

Okay! Not fiddling with the O2 sensor.

Sorry, CCT is Cam Chain Tensioner.

Yes, shims at the SVC! Done.

Thank You