To the main part now
It's a common practice for folks to do a T-CLOCK inspection before a ride. The winters are harsh in the west and most people who care about motorcycles store them properly although it's common to sneak a ride on a good day. Come Spring, it really makes sense to do a rigorous check before their ride. India, however, is blessed with riding weather throughout the year. So if you're on top of your maintenance, you can probably skip some of these inspections before a ride. But this would be the bare minimum that you should aim to go through in a motorcycle you buy used.
T- Tires and wheels
C- Controls (clutch, throttle, cables, fuel lines etc)
L- Lights and Electricals
O- Oil and Fluids
C- Chassis/Frame, suspension, chain sprocket etc
K- Kickstand/Centre-stand
Here is a detailed thread which talks about T-Clock:
https://www.gtamotorcycle.com/xf/thr...outines.54256/
I'll refer to the first link I posted above and which should cover T-Clock and more.
Overall Appearance:
- Never judge a book by its cover, they say. But when it comes to motorcycles, the appearances speak volumes about the owner. Does it look extremely clean for its age? I would question if the owner is trying to hide something. Does it look bad with a dented tank, scratches all over? I'd be even more concerned.
- When you look at the overall bike, what do you feel? when you touch the fairings or the dash console, are they sitting tight and pretty or is something loose? When you walk around, are you able to spot rusted bolts, loose or stripped wirings or any other fault? Make a mental note of it.
- Do the math of how much you will have to shell out of your pocket to make the motorcycle look the way you want it to. And no, I do not mean in terms of modding the bike. For eg, adding a fairing to a naked motorcycle would be your headache, if it came as a naked bike from the factory. This is more like an initial evaluation: Is the asking price justified?
Tyres and Wheels
- Despite this being 4th or 5th in the above link, I'd like to talk about tyres before we move any further. They are one of the most integral parts of the motorcycle and based on the tire size and kind of motorcycle you ride, you can easily save 5-15k if you get a motorcycle with a good set of tyres.
- For tyres, there are a few things that I consider, a couple of important ones are 1. Age of the tire 2. Tread depth. The tyre will have WWYY stamp on them where WW indicates the week(01-52) and YY (year). The newer the better - but expect to change the tyres if it's older than 4 or 5 years. If it's 3 years old and has enough thread left, you might be able to squeeze in another year out of it, maybe. But always work on worst-case scenarios. To check the tread depth, you might want to check the internet for an in-depth explanation but a short answer is the tires should have at least 1/8" of tread left, preferably more. How I usually do is, I check the wear indicator on the tires and see how much more for the surface to get square with it.
- Ask the owner about his last tyre change, where he buys his tyres from and how many km he could get on his older set?
- Check for other issues like flat-spotting, ragged edges (if the motorcycle is tracked/raced), tyre wear pattern etc as well while you're at it.
- If you get a chance to TD the motorcycle, you'll also be able to figure out if the tyres are balanced.
- One of the biggest concerns with alloy wheels is finding if there are cracks. Inspect it finely to the best of your ability. For wire spokes, bending is something to be cautious about. Putting the bike on the centre-stand, spinning the wheel freely and watching it from a distance from behind (or front depending on the wheel) should help you uncover that.
- Also, a good time to check if the speedometer is working. Spin the front (or rear wheels depending on the motorcycle) as fast as possible and check if the speedometer moves at all. Ensure that it isn't disconnected or simply not working.
Buying a raced/tracked motorcycle
- I personally don't think there is anything wrong with buying a motorcycle that was tracked once in a while, even though I'm not sure if I'd buy one that was used as a racing bike unless I'm going to use it for racing. As long as the bike is serviced after using it for track days (tyres, fluids and consumables like brake pads), I don't see a reason why not to consider them. If the owner has service records to prove, then it shouldn't be a bad idea. A motorcycle like Triumph Daytona 675r belongs on a track...so if you're buying one such motorcycle, expect it to have seen racetracks a few times at least. The main thing is the owner should be upfront about it rather than you finding out.
- Racing, on the other hand, puts the engine and transmission through a lot of stress. Frequent engine and transmission build might be required based on the usage. If you're buying a motorcycle to commute or use frequently on the roads, then maybe it's a bad idea.
- My knowledge of this area is limited. However, if it's raced there will be some mods done including custom fairing, holes drilled through head of the bolts etc. The tires are going to have rough edges and if dropped the frame is most likely to have some damage too. The idea is you should know what you're getting and the condition. It's okay to pick up a raced bike as long as you know it was raced and are paying accordingly.
- In India however, racing or tracking motorcycles are just gaining popularity from what I know. But still depending on the model, you can always choose to check and question the owner on this. Always better to know these details before buying a bike.
Crashes
- One of the reasons people choose to buy a new motorcycle is because they don't want to buy a crashed motorcycle. Many of the crash damages are masked by owners with some cosmetic mods and put up for sale. I do agree that sometimes normal people (like me) can miss during the inspection and only realize a couple of weeks after buying. That's the reason, a mechanic has to have a look at the bike you're planning to buy. Here is one personal instance that I'd like to quote: a mechanic friend and I were looking at a motorcycle. I totally missed the fact that the left clip-on looked newer than the right on that motorcycle. It was a very minute detail and I was never going to catch it. The bike did have its fairing scratched which the owner mentioned that it was dropped by the previous owner. Now I test drove it and the left turning radius was larger than the right, which means the clip-ons had a slight misalignment. So having an extra pair of professional eyes look at the motorcycle is invaluable.
-Small scratches, bruises, dents are all good. Of course, these are bargaining tools for you to get the price down. Check how much the same year, same model motorcycle in pristine condition goes and reduce the price accordingly. I wouldn't necessarily walk away from the motorcycles that have small scratches but also keep in mind that all the small things add up. So make a note of it. If you're inspecting it at a garage, they can give you an estimate of how much it would cost and you can deduct that from the asking price.
- It's important to check a few parts which are prone to fall: forks, frames, engine cover. Forks are notorious for twists, bends. In general, also check if the forks are leaking oil and that might suggest fork seal replacement. If the forks are slightly bent, it's difficult to make out as far as I know. You can sit on the motorcycle and check the travel of the fork by using the front brake and there should be no chips or pitting marks on the forks. If you get to ride the motorcycle - while riding check out the forks for a sec to see if you can find irregularities. You might be able to catch a twisted fork.
- Frame or chassis: If a frame is bent, chances are that it might pull to a side when you're riding. Also, it's not uncommon to a squareness check using strings. More info on this online. You can check the welds to ensure that there are no cracks on them. It's just a pain to deal with anything that has frame damage so I wouldn't consider buying one of those.
- Finally, check overall for scratches. Bar endcaps, levers, frame-sliders (if your motorcycles have them) or crash-guards, engine casings and anything above the footpegs. Anything below the footpegs can be discounted to an enthusiastic rider. If it's a drop, then the damages should be very minor and easy to fix and comparatively a crash at 40 kmph will have more damages than that.
Clutch
- One of the major issues with clutch (and throttle) is the cables snapping off. Regardless of what the owner says, it's best practice to have it changed. It costs pennies but will guarantee you peace of mind. It doesn't hurt to check with the owner when the cables were changed and if the owner has records to prove that it was recently changed, then it saves you some money.
- Bigger issues of clutch slipping: this is one of the exercises when you're starting up the motorcycle. Depress the clutch, engage 1st gear and release the clutch. The clutch should engage smoothly. Alternately, if you're riding the motorcycle when you reach say 50-60 kmph put the bike on a higher gear (5th or 6th) and try to roll the throttle wide open. The bike should accelerate linear as opposed to just revving. If there is unnecessary revving, then most likely the clutch is shot.
Seat
- Well, other than the obvious of not having ripped seats do check if you can use the keys provided to remove the seats (depends on the model of the motorcycle). Also, a good time to check if the factory manuals, tool-box are in place as most of the times they're stored under the seat. Recent bikes do have factory manuals in pdf, so shouldn't be a deal-breaker. Some good souls have scanned/cam scanned the manual and put it online for our consumption.
- If the seats are ripped you'll need to get it re-wrapped. Again not a big deal but the tear can grow over a period of time. So take into account the price of re-wrapping the seat. Also, rains can leave torn seats wet for days if not weeks.
Gas-Tank
- The obvious damage here would be to have a dent or two. The bigger issue would be to have rust inside the fuel tank. Over a period, this rust can affect the fuel system and cause clogs in the carbs, fuel pump etc. Open the fuel tank and use the torch/flashlight you bought with you to check for any loose sediments or rust. It's a bit difficult to say but put the motorcycle on centre-stand (if it has one) and rock it back and forth hoping to find something. Check the sides of the fuel cap and the surrounding area for rust. If there is rust, it has to be immediately worked on.
- Alternatively, you can also check if the interiors of the tank were re-coated. If the paint didn't cure properly, then there are chances of clogging fuel lines.
- To be honest, I have never come across rusted tank though it's possible. So consult a mechanic to find out more about this or check with Google, he knows.
Electricals and Battery
- Check if the battery terminals are clean or if they have any unwanted deposit, rust, corrosion, leak etc.
- Know what spec batteries came from the factor Volts, Amps etc. and cross verify just to be safe. If you have a multimeter you can also check what voltage is being returned. For eg, even though batteries are rated 12V, I have found that a fully charged battery returns a slightly higher value like 13V. If it is below 12V the bike might not start, and the battery might need to be charged on a battery tender or battery charger. An easier way to check the battery is to do a cold start and see if the motorcycle starts without hiccups. Like other things, a cold start is a test for the battery as well.
- While the motorcycle is running, turn the headlights on and set it on high and notice if there is any flickering. If the headlights are powered directly by the battery (which is the case for some motorcycles), even better. Flickering headlights can mean a faulty regulator/rectifier and sometimes point to a faulty stator as well. So these small symptoms cannot be discounted unless looked at by a mechanic.
- Check the wiring of the motorcycle. Nothing should be loose, out and about...most wirings come concealed since you don't want it to get wet in the rains or while washing.
- Check if the indicators, brake lights, horns, high and low beams work. If there is an engine kill switch, test if it works. Instrument cluster, neutral led on the cluster etc also works
Suspension
- Suspensions and wheels take a good beating on any vehicle in India. Thanks to the potholes on the roads. In the crash section, I have mentioned a bit about forks. The first thing you can check for is leaks. Changing the fork seal is not necessarily a complicated job but again, all the small things add up. While you're at it, you can also check the bearings. If the motorcycle has a centre stand, have a friend sit on the passenger side so that front wheels are free. Rotate the handle from right to left, it should move freely without any resistance. Also while at it, rotate the tires and depress the front brakes slightly. There should be no vibration or the rotors are due for replacement.
- Push the forks down hard a couple of times. Some resistance is fine. Most commuter motorcycles in India have their fork legs covered which is a good thing to protect from stone chips. But if not check for smoothness. It should be smooth and shouldn't have any sort of pitting and chipping. Guess I have mentioned this above as well. Also while you push it down a couple of times, wipe it with a rag and do this exercise again. If there is oil residue on the fork then it's probably the seals.
- While on the centre-stand, ask your friend to move to the front to free up the rear wheel and check swingarm bearings. Personally, I have not done this so you're better off watching a YouTube video of how to do it. You should be checking of any sounds while rotating the rear wheel (gear in neutral), also by checking the axle for looseness.
- Also check the springs for any squeak. Usually, for older motorcycles, if left in rain there are chances of it rusting. Hydraulics shocks might need oil replacement. Try to get the bike's owners manual online and skim through it for all these details.
Brakes
- Brakes should have been right underneath the tyre's section but better late than never. Move the motorcycle forward, then pull the front brake lever in. The bike should stop immediately with a click sound (which is normal). Then let go of the brake lever and see if there is any resistance. There shouldn't be. Do the same exercise for the rear brakes.
- If your motorcycle has front and rear discs, check how much brake pads are left. Not expensive but could save you some money. Check the thickness of the rotors and general condition. I believe there is a tolerance for rotor thickness and varies depending on the size of the rotor. Have a look on the internet or your owners manual.
- If you have drum brakes on the rear, put the bike on the centre stand and rotate the rear tires freely. Gently push the rear brake and see if there are any sounds or squeaks. Ideally, it shouldn't have any unusual loud squeaks. The guide that I posted above mentions that a drum brake has a wear indicator but personally I don't know about it. I have owned a motorcycle with a drum brake at the rear and I used to tighten the nuts on the adjuster rod. Also, that would give me an indication of how much life was left in them. Check out the internet for more details.
Chain-Sproket
- Inspect the chain for its condition. How do the rollers inside the links look? They should look clean.
- Have your friend sit on the motorcycle on the centre-stand and check the lower loop of the chain. It should have anywhere between 1/2 inch to 1 inch slack (but it's generally adjusted to the rider's weight). Use a ruler and set it beside the lower loop and move the lower loop up and see how much it moves. Overtight chains wear out quickly.
- Hold the end of the chain from the rear and move it front and back. If it moves enough to expose a quarter or half of a sprocket tooth then you need a new chain. At the same time, move the upper loop side to side, a slight movement is fine (say half an inch or less) but not more.
- Fun fact: you got to always change the chain in 3 pieces - chain, front sprocket and rear sprocket. Always!
- A lot of material about chain and chain maintenance online, I would suggest you check some out on the Internet but the above are the basic things you need to know.
Exhaust
- The main thing with the exhaust is to check if is rusted and to ensure it's surface rust (which is still okay) and not advanced rust.
- Many motorcycle owners prefer to change the exhaust to an aftermarket one. I personally don't mind this as original ones are heavier and don't usually sound as good as the aftermarket ones. If there are multiple exhaust pipes (usually two?), ensure that both are working. This can be done by keeping your hand or a sheet of paper about 2 feet away from the pipes and feeling the pressure from each pipe - should roughly be the same. The guide mentions against holding hands behind a tailpipe for safety reason, but I'd just ensure that the bike is cold and no throttle is applied while I do this exercise. If it's an aftermarket exhaust, definitely be cautious and don't bother using your hands to do this test.
- Also, another thing to look out for is exhaust leaks. Usually, you can smell exhaust gases from the manifold in case of an exhaust leak. Main causes of an exhaust leak are due to loose bolts, faulty gaskets. Anything other than these two is going to hurt your pockets a bit harder.
Mods
- Not all mods are bad. If you always wanted an aftermarket exhaust and if the owner has installed Akropovic or Yoshimura exhaust then it does save you some costs right there. The only thing would be to ensure in such case is if the ECU map was updated accordingly.
- Also, if you have done some research into the model and their common issues, you'll come to know of the faulty parts that need to be replaced. For eg., a first-gen SV650 has rectifier/regulator issues and you can check if the owner (or any previous owners) have replaced it. Another example would be for a CBR600F4i's had cam chain tensioners that would make whining noise and the solution was to replace the automatic cam chain tensioners with manual ones.
- By the rule of thumb, I stay away from motorcycles that are extensively modded. A lot of LED lights, a lot of stickering works, wacky paint job etc are a no for me.
During the first cold start
- Touch the engine cover or exhaust to ensure it's cold (with caution). If it's not cold, question the owner on why.
- You should ensure that the motorcycle starts without any issues or sounds. Pay close attention to any knocking sounds or any hiccups while the engine starts. Normally, some motorcycle starts only after two or three tries. Also, if it's a kick-starter, then it might take a couple of tries to bring the engine to life.
- Before you blip/rev the throttle up, go to the exhaust side and inspect the exhaust gases. A cold engine will have white exhaust gas coming out until the engine warms up but it would turn invisible post that. If it's blue smoke, it better be a 2-stroke or it must have a blown piston ring and the motorcycle is burning oil. White smoke when the engine is hot indicates coolant leak in the cylinder (if your motorcycle has a radiator).
- Check the idle rpm (normally is around 1200-1500 rpm or a bit more depending on your motorcycle)
- Some people bring a small dia hollow wooden pipe to hear the noise from each cylinder and ensure all the cylinders are firing. Some people stick a flat head screwdriver on the exhaust manifold (if you can access it) to do the same check. The guide has mentions of a wet paper towel method. It's a risky inspection and I'd leave it to you to do it if you feel like it.
- Once the motorcycle warms up, rev the engine a bit (don't redline it but a little twist) and see if there is anything unusual.
- Put it on a centre stand and check the oil level. You usually don't notice anything further using a dip-stick or looking at it from the sight glass. If there are white streaks (water in the oil) or if there are metal particles (engine or transmission grinding) can only be confirmed upon an oil change. Usually, this is where a good mechanic would help. Ask the owner when was the last oil change.
- If the owner allows, take the motorcycle for a test ride and see how it feels. Any hesitation or stumbling in the acceleration - carburetion problem maybe? if it's FI bike then maybe throttle body cleaning is required? check for brakes, suspensions, alignment and see how you feel overall!
- Finally, once you're back from the test ride next step is to ask the owner for any questions you may have. See the quizzing section of the guide I posted. By now, you have a good understanding of the bike and now would be a good time to review the service records. Some people go through them first before even touching the motorcycle. It's up to you.
I think based on the guide, I have covered most of the sections that are relevant. If you feel something missing, you can post them.
Some people prefer making a checklist and taking it for the inspection, some people just go by themselves and believe in their gut feeling, and some others don't buy stuff of private sellers but only from dealerships. There is no right or wrong but even if you're buying from a dealer I would still run some of these checks (unless it's a brand new motorcycle). Patience is the key, wait for the right motorcycle to come. There are deals to be had - just keep monitoring the classifieds. Finally, motorcycles are fun and so should be buying a motorcycle. There is nothing that cannot be repaired, but money spent on repair is the money that could have been used to make the motorcycle go faster or look better. So your aim should be to get the best bang for the buck within your budget. Thanks and ride safe!
26th October 2020, 09:47
(27)
Thanks
