[locusjag]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

If it were dirt or moisture inside the brake shoe then it would get displaced with regular riding. But if it persists then do get it checked. If the brake shoes are worn then replace it but if there is dirt accumulated inside then simply get it rubbed and cleaned.

Looks like you were bang on target! I'm sitting here at the customer lounge of the RE Company owned service center in Perungudi, Chennai. My service advisor told me that it has to be dirt in the drum. It's been a 20 minute wait so far and I should be up and running in another 10.

[locusjag]

Originally Posted by locusjag

Looks like you were bang on target! I'm sitting here at the customer lounge of the RE Company owned service center in Perungudi, Chennai. My service advisor told me that it has to be dirt in the drum. It's been a 20 minute wait so far and I should be up and running in another 10.

It took me rather 2 hours in total but on the plus side - RE didn't charge me even though it was supposed to be a paid service. It might be cause there was dirt on the brake drum and I had gotten my 2nd free service done from there barely 10 days ago; maybe they think that it was a service liability on their side.

[Abhishek3001]

Originally Posted by locusjag

Is it the brake shoe indeed, that's worn?

Originally Posted by navin_v8

As a practice I change my old CI models' rear drum brake shoes every 5000-6000 km's as they are not very expensive and cheaper to replace while regular servicing.

I think 5000-6000Kms is a bit too frequent for changing brake pads on the rear drum.
I changed the rear pads of my classic 500 recently at 17000Kms and they still had considerable friction material left on them, I only changed them because I was changing the chain and sprockets and since I had easy access to the pads.
But, you can always change them for peace of mind as they are indeed cheap at ~₹250 for a set.

Cheers

[rich_heart]

I am having problem with front wheel of my TBTS 2009.
It has run 16k (I know, pretty low) and around 600kms ago I replaced both front and rear tyres. Since this I am having one or the other problem with front wheel.
At that time, a croaking sound started. Since it was holiday, I was forced to take to local mechanic. He diagnosed as front bearings were broken and indeed it was. While fitting new set, he felt the fit loose, suspected hub having worn out unevenly due to possibly bend in fork and put a shim to.fit it. After few hundreds of kms, the same problem has resurfaced. This time I went to another local mechanic and he too put back the shim since he was very clear that the hub (he told drum) has to be replaced.

Please advise what would be cost and whether replacement is best solution or it could be some other problem? Please share your experience.
Thanks.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by Abhishek3001

I think 5000-6000Kms is a bit too frequent for changing brake pads on the rear drum.
I changed the rear pads of my classic 500 recently at 17000Kms and they still had considerable friction material left on them, I only changed them because I was changing the chain and sprockets and since I had easy access to the pads.
But, you can always change them for peace of mind as they are indeed cheap at ~₹250 for a set.
Cheers

Abhishek mate I believe you must be using your front disc brake more frequently than your rear drum as your CL500 comes with front disc. In my case one of my CI 350 has both front and rear drum brakes. While another CI 350 also used to have both front and rear drum brakes but I got it retrofitted with front disc brake. Drum brakes wear faster than disc brake as far as my experience goes.

Originally Posted by rich_heart

I am having problem with front wheel of my TBTS 2009.
It has run 16k (I know, pretty low) and around 600kms ago I replaced both front and rear tyres. Since this I am having one or the other problem with front wheel.
At that time, a croaking sound started. Since it was holiday, I was forced to take to local mechanic. He diagnosed as front bearings were broken and indeed it was. While fitting new set, he felt the fit loose, suspected hub having worn out unevenly due to possibly bend in fork and put a shim to.fit it. After few hundreds of kms, the same problem has resurfaced. This time I went to another local mechanic and he too put back the shim since he was very clear that the hub (he told drum) has to be replaced.

Please advise what would be cost and whether replacement is best solution or it could be some other problem? Please share your experience.
Thanks.

One of my CI 350's one of the fork was bent due to a heavy impact and the front alignment went haywire. I replaced the fork set with a new one and meanwhile also got the T cone set changed due to age. I did this replacement about 3 years back and at that time the cost came to about 5K.

[Abhishek3001]

Hey guys,
So, I have had a slight problem with my bike. The handle bar of my bike starts wobbling ever so slightly at about 60 Km/h, it becomes more pronounced when I let go of the handle bar.
As far as I understand, there could be three causes for this misaligned wheels, worn front tyre or worn steering head bearings.
The alignment seems to be fine because when I let go of the handle bar the bike continues moving in a straight line and the front tyre has normal wear i.e no uneven/abnormal wear pattern.
So, that leaves the steering head bearings, are they the culprit?
For refrence, my bike has done just over 19,000 Kms and is 3 years old.

Cheers

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by Abhishek3001

So, that leaves the steering head bearings, are they the culprit?

Check the swingarm bushes.

- Put the bike on center stand
- Hold the rear wheel at 3/9 o clock (Position closer to the taillamp depending on the side you are on)
- Try to rock the wheel from side to side. There should not be any play. If there are any, the bush is busted

[Anz1979]

My 2012 Classic 350 covered around 46000 kms. Now a days it's vibrations are hectic. Handle is not free. Also the engine feels a bit rough, like some thing pulling back the bike. Chain is well lubricated. brakes are properly adjusted with enough play. Running with WR8DP Bosch platinum as main plug because stock W5DC is not available anywhere. inspected for oil and there is adequate oil.

1. It doesn't accelerate as earlier but vibrates more if tries to accelerate.
2. Its handle bar wobbles in 4th and 5th gear if ride with one hand.

Shall I try replace the clutch plates for 1st case? Never changed it till date.
Do I have to replace the cone and ball of steering as the handle is not free ?

Any suggestions ?

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Anz1979

My 2012 Classic 350 covered around 46000 kms. Now a days it's vibrations are hectic. Handle is not free. Also the engine feels a bit rough, like some thing pulling back the bike. Chain is well lubricated. brakes are properly adjusted with enough play. Running with WR8DP Bosch platinum as main plug because stock W5DC is not available anywhere. inspected for oil and there is adequate oil.

1. It doesn't accelerate as earlier but vibrates more if tries to accelerate.
2. Its handle bar wobbles in 4th and 5th gear if ride with one hand.

Shall I try replace the clutch plates for 1st case? Never changed it till date.
Do I have to replace the cone and ball of steering as the handle is not free ?

Any suggestions ?

Go at a comparatively low speed in final gear and crack open the throttle, if your clutch is shot then you'll know it.

Vibrations when trying to accelerate post mid range, usual suspect would be that you're running rich or your carburetor slide is sticking.

Don't mess with the AFR tuning, just check why you're running rich usually would be a clogged air filter.

Also don't underestimate your control cables, change them every year, thought not regarded much if not changed appropriately they can drastically reduce motorcycle feel.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by Anz1979

1. It doesn't accelerate as earlier but vibrates more if tries to accelerate.
2. Its handle bar wobbles in 4th and 5th gear if ride with one hand.

I recently figured out the reason for poor acceleration on my 2002 Electra was due to a kink in the fuel pipe after the service center installed a Filter before the carburetor. I had to change the complete piping as the quality was also not good. The kink was helping in smothering the fuel supply.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by Anz1979

My 2012 Classic 350 covered around 46000 kms. Now a days it's vibrations are hectic. Handle is not free. Also the engine feels a bit rough, like some thing pulling back the bike.

Shall I try replace the clutch plates for 1st case? Never changed it till date.
Do I have to replace the cone and ball of steering as the handle is not free ?

Any suggestions ?

In addition to getting the clutch and pressure plates checked also check the drive chain slackness. If its too tight then one feels like something is pulling back the bike, as you mentioned.

For the handle being not free try and see if adding bearing grease to the T cone set makes any difference. If the bearings are shot then you might need a new set anyway.

[Abhishek3001]

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Check the swingarm bushes.

- Put the bike on center stand
- Hold the rear wheel at 3/9 o clock (Position closer to the taillamp depending on the side you are on)
- Try to rock the wheel from side to side. There should not be any play. If there are any, the bush is busted

Hi,
Today, I checked the rear swingarm bushing for play and there seems to be none.
So is it the steering head bearings? How can I check it?

Thanks

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Abhishek3001

Hi,
Today, I checked the rear swingarm bushing for play and there seems to be none.
So is it the steering head bearings? How can I check it?

Thanks

Put the motorcycle on main stand, raise the front and rock the stanchion, if there is play you'll know.

[HONESTabdul]

I have a Thunderbird 350 run in about 10000kms. Lately there is a clicking sound in the engine after the bike has run about 20 to 30 kms i.e. in a hit engine. The sound is pronounced at idling and mutes above 2500 rpm. Not continuous, it comes and goes. Mileage fine and so is the power delivery. Can anyone help me identify the source so that I can convince the service center guys to look into it? Trying to attach a audio file of the noise.

[HONESTabdul]

I have a Thunderbird 350 run in about 10000kms. Lately there is a clicking sound in the engine after the bike has run about 20 to 30 kms i.e. in a hit engine. The sound is pronounced at idling and mutes above 2500 rpm. Not continuous, it comes and goes. Mileage fine and so is the power delivery. Can anyone help me identify the source so that I can convince the service center guys to look into it? Trying to attach a audio file of the noise. tb sound.rar

VID_20180415_090954.rar please bear with me for trying to upload a sample of the sound in video and audio format. Do excuse for making two posts for the same