[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by adrian

...

Thank you Adrian. That helps a lot.
I just unscrewed the spark plugs and below are they for introspection and advise.



One question that comes up in my mind is that the new WR8DP do not seem to be having the black electrode type of thing on its head. Is that how its supposed to be?

Also I observed that few of the pipes are broken and needs urgent replacement. I looked for the part numbers, but unable to locate the same. Can someone please guide me with the relevant part numbers.



The is one and below is the other end of the pipe.



In the below image I have tried to differentiate the two different pipes that needs replacement. Please help me with the part numbers so that I can procure the same. (by any chance, is the Yellow one called as the breather Pipe > 584667/A; the other end of this pipe goes into the air filter box!)

[adrian]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

I just unscrewed the spark plugs


One question that comes up in my mind is that the new WR8DP do not seem to be having the black electrode type of thing on its head. Is that how its supposed to be?

Hi, your motorcycle is running on the richer side of air fuel ratio, which is the reason, the central electrode of the old plug, which used to be white, is now in black color due to the deposit of soot. All spark plugs have their central electrode insulator white in color. So that is OK.

Now those torn rubber hose which seems to come out of the PAV (pulse air valve) needs to be replace ASAP as they contribute in maintaining the proper air fuel ratio. The thing to keep in mind is that there should be no crack or tear in the rubber parts between the air filter, the carburetor and the intake manifold, as they affect the AFR.

The second torn hose is the crankcase vent hose which goes into the air filter. I don't have the part numbers though.

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by adrian

Hi, your motorcycle is running on the richer side of air fuel ratio, which is the reason, the central electrode of the old plug, which used to be white, is now in black color due to the deposit of soot. All spark plugs have their central electrode insulator white in color. So that is OK.

Now those torn rubber hose which seems to come out of the PAV (pulse air valve) needs to be replace ASAP as they contribute in maintaining the proper air fuel ratio. The thing to keep in mind is that there should be no crack or tear in the rubber parts between the air filter, the carburetor and the intake manifold, as they affect the AFR.

The second torn hose is the crankcase vent hose which goes into the air filter. I don't have the part numbers though.

Thank you Adrian and sorry for being too inquisitive on this . But the normal spark plugs that we use, has a black protruding thing from the white section, just under the metal umbrella.

But in this one, there seems to be no protruding kind of thing; I can see the white portion and then the umbrella. On closer inspection though I can see a slight metal thingy on the top of the white thing but I might be hallucinating.

The question is whether am I handling a defective piece or are platinum spark plugs like this only!

[tharian]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Thank you Adrian and sorry for being too inquisitive on this . But the normal spark plugs that we use, has a black protruding thing from the white section, just under the metal umbrella.

But in this one, there seems to be no protruding kind of thing; I can see the white portion and then the umbrella. On closer inspection though I can see a slight metal thingy on the top of the white thing but I might be hallucinating.

The question is whether am I handling a defective piece or are platinum spark plugs like this only!

Attachment 1868359

It's probably a plastic covering when boxed. Try removing it. It happened to me once and went all the way back to the shop and came back red faced.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

The question is whether am I handling a defective piece or are platinum spark plugs like this only!

Attachment 1868359

Simply connect the plug to the distributor cap that fits and let the ground rest against the head where metal is exposed.

Crank the motorcycle, if you see spark all good, if not then do consider alternative means.

And just for the record, have covered about 2 Large ones on motorcycles alone to date and I've never seen a SP come with the centre electrode capped seperately, there's usually a plastic/cardboard tube in which the SP is inserted.

Edit:

A bit of Googling told me that I was right, it's not a cap, that is how the new Platinum Plus Plugs are designed to be;



Source

You guys need to up your Googling skills.

As for the rich reading, can happen if you thump around at low RPM's, or only use the motorcycle for short errands. The AF on the B500 is sensitive so do keep an eye on that, my friends B500 was farting smoke when revving high after barely 4000 KM's of riding. Plus changing the AF is the easiest RE DIY, hence why the AF box can be opened with the key alone.

Anyhow don't fiddle with the carb settings unless actually warranted. Let's face it, company's R&D has more credibility than stuff we read on the internet.

As for rubber tubes, go to any Bajaj outlet and source breather tubes, or better go to RE outlet and buy a couple of duckbill breathers, costs about RS.20 per piece. You can use it as a breather or slice the duckbill off with a blade and use it as a rubber hose.

If I were you I'd put my faith in Bajaj.

Cheers,
A.P.

[Majumdarda]

Now this is very strange but whenever the lights defunct, I have observed that the "black" wire is the culprit.

• First time when this was observed, the clip was observed as melted, So did a patch work with black tape.
• Second time this was observed and as highlighted above, the wire has melted the black tape with hell lot of oxide formation (I believe so)

OK some basic questions here

1. Which wire is the high, low and ground?
2. Why does the black wire always got short? No external fittings have been done.
3. What are these fitments called as so that I can procure a few from local shops?

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Now this is very strange but whenever the lights defunct, I have observed that the "black" wire is the culprit.

Attachment 1870013

• First time when this was observed, the clip was observed as melted, So did a patch work with black tape.
• Second time this was observed and as highlighted above, the wire has melted the black tape with hell lot of oxide formation (I believe so)

OK some basic questions here

1. Which wire is the high, low and ground?
2. Why does the black wire always got short? No external fittings have been done.
3. What are these fitments called as so that I can procure a few from local shops?

Attachment 1870014

That is shoddy wiring on RE's part, usually there'd be a plug that sits square on the bulb, just go to any Hero outlet and ask for CD Dawn headlight socket, you can find a picture in my CT100B ownership thread, since I'm out of station and posting from a Android Go phone I'm unable to upload images.

You can also get Ceramic H4 sockets from car shops, though I prefer the OEM ones as they come with a rubber boot.

One of the vertical tabs is the ground, the other one is the High Beam and the horizontal tab is the Low Beam, that is if my memory is right, I simply checked my using a multimeter, takes a minute or two to figure out what is what, anyhow what I can be 100% sure is that one of the vertical tab is the ground.

While I'd done the conversion had asked if a DIY be made but since there were no replies I skipped making one, though in all honesty you don't need one as long as you have a multimeter.

As for colour coding, the black one is the Ground in most cases, then again with a multimeter you can confirm the same, reason for shorting I presume is due to shoddy factory wiring, get a proper socket and I believe your issues would be resolved.

Cheers,
A.P.

[ArizonaJim]

The wires for the headlight are:

BLACK (or on some vehicles AMBER OR ORANGE) = GROUND (or common)

GREEN = LOW BEAM

BLUE = HIGH BEAM

The heavily corroded black ground wire looks like someone may have soldered it using a acid flux solder.
Any soldering done on any wiring must be done using only a rosin core solder flux. Acid flux's will attack the copper and cause the type of corrosion your seeing.

[ashwinprakas]

To add, just get a multimeter and check resistance between Ground wire and chassis, you should not be getting any, if you're getting then that could also be the cause of heat buildup.

[saurabh89]

Originally Posted by Traveller Nayak

For benefit of all, I would like to inform that Motorrad Werkstatt has now opened a new workshop in Sector 14, Gurgaon. [address from Google: Khasra No. 3898/3173/1970, Near Force Motors Showroom,, Opp. Shubh Vatika, Sheetla Mata Road, Atul Kataria Chowk, Gurugram, Haryana 122001]


And, their first one is near/beeyond Sector 56 Gurgaon. [address from Google: Shop No 2 & 3, Ch. Ram Singh Market, Near Heritage School, VPO Ullahwas, CRPF Road, Gurugram, Haryana 122102]

Contact details: 099108 41988 / 098183 58315

Guys, looks like Motorrad have shut down their workshops in Gurgaon.

I am on the lookout for a trusted mechanic in Gurgaon, again!! Read about the workshop in South Delhi/Lodhi road but would help in case there's a friendly neighbourhood garage in Gurgaon.

[tharian]

I am having intermittent battery charging issues on my 2002 RE Electra CDI. I have a feeling this is connected to the starting issue I face at times when there is no spark at all.
The other day I noticed that the battery had stopped charging again. There are two wires from the alternator casing which goes to the headlamp and one to the battery and ignition unit. I had tried fiddling with it once when this happened before.

My mech wants to change the wiring which I don't agree to since everything else works fine, just the charging part. Is there something I can DIY to fix this ?

[rich_heart]

Hi all,
I have TBTS 2009. The battery is dead and I have to replace it.

Please suggest if I should go with standard recommended or if there are any better alternatives available.

I might install twin headlight set up like Mahindra Mojo. Should I factor in any extra battery capacity in this case?
Please advise.

Thanks in advance.

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by tharian

I am having intermittent battery charging issues on my 2002 RE Electra CDI. I have a feeling this is connected to the starting issue I face at times when there is no spark at all.
The other day I noticed that the battery had stopped charging again. There are two wires from the alternator casing which goes to the headlamp and one to the battery and ignition unit. I had tried fiddling with it once when this happened before.

My mech wants to change the wiring which I don't agree to since everything else works fine, just the charging part. Is there something I can DIY to fix this ?

I think your RE alternator supplies AC current directly to the headlight circuit thru the two wires. The two purple? wires go to the regulator/rectifier to supply DC voltage to the battery and everything other than the headlight.

If your battery does not stay charged either it is defective and needs to be replaced or, the alternator or the regulator/rectifier has a problem.
One or more of the wiring connectors could be loose or not making a good connection.

Checking the connections by unplugging them and then plugging them back in is a DIY thing that can be done.
Checking the alternator output on the two purple wires and the output of the rectifier/regular requires a volt/ohm meter. The volt/ohm meter can also be used to test the voltage of the battery, both without the engine running and with the engine running.
The battery voltage without the engine running should be over 12 volts if it is fully charged. With the engine running the voltage at the battery should be at least 13 volts.

It is best to test these things before messing with rewiring anything.

Inexpensive Volt/ohm meters with digital readouts can be found on the web and even the low cost ones work fine for testing the electrical circuits on your Royal Enfield. In fact, I highly recommend that anyone who owns a RE should own one. They are not difficult to use and there are a lot of videos available on the web to teach you how to use them.

Originally Posted by rich_heart

Hi all,
I have TBTS 2009. The battery is dead and I have to replace it.

Please suggest if I should go with standard recommended or if there are any better alternatives available.

I might install twin headlight set up like Mahindra Mojo. Should I factor in any extra battery capacity in this case?
Please advise.

Thanks in advance.

Extra battery capacity won't address the main problem if you decide to install twin headlights. The problem if you do this is, the RE's alternator output is barely able to keep up with the single headlight power requirements.
Unless you are going to use a LED headlight (very expensive), I don't recommend trying to install dual headlights.
As far as better batteries go, try to get a sealed battery.
Both the sealed lead acid and the Absorbed Glass Mat batteries are far superior to the open cell lead acid batteries with the screw on caps.

Not only do they not require attention to make sure the fluid level is correct but in the case of an accident, they won't leak acid all over everything if the motorcycle falls down.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by tharian

Is there something I can DIY to fix this ?

Hope this helps.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motor...g-systems.html (Understanding & troubleshooting Motorcycle Charging Systems)

From experience in 9/10 cases of intermittent issues grounding is the cause, either something that should be grounded isn't or something that shouldn't is.

Originally Posted by rich_heart

Please suggest if I should go with standard recommended or if there are any better alternatives available.

Let's make things simple.

Hook up a multi meter to your battery and let the motorcycle idle, then turn on the HL and temporarily hook up the light you wish to add, directly connect it to the battery.

Now observe multi meter for a minute or two, if volts consistently drop, it's better you not go for the second headlight.

Now coming to battery capacity, won't make a difference since charge rate still remains the same. See the battery as a Bucket and the charging system as a Tap, irrespective of how big the bucket is, the primary contributer is still the tap.

[jugz]

Hi guys, upfront apologies as I feel this topic would have definitely been covered, but am not able to locate it in this massive (also, incredibly helpful) thread.

I'm looking to replace the battery for my Classic 500 cc (2016 make). The recommended batter is 12V-12AH, however I'm not able to find one matching this online.

Can someone please point me to a post that can help, OR share some links where I can purchase it from? Would really like some service that can deliver and also replace it for me.

Thanks in advance!