[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by MechPrasad

Nope bro, you amy use a 9AH vrla mf battery, it does the job pretty good. The RETB has an led lamp so it would do even better.

Prasad mate the RE Tbird models from 2012 till date come(including Tbird X models) with a HID projector having H7 55w bulb housed in a projector assembly. Only the outer corona ring (can be called parking light) in the headlight assembly is LED. The tail lamp is a proper LED unit in the Tbird models from 2012 till date. AFAIK RE started equipping the Tbird 350 with Amaron 8ah VRLA MF battery from late 2014 till date, while the Tbird 500 continues with the normal Exide 14aH battery.

I am using it on a 55w halogen lamp fitted classic 350 which previously was equipped with a 14 AH lead acid battery.

Currently the CL350 models come with MF VRLA 8aH battery while the CL500 models come with MF VRLA 12aH battery.

So to conclude a 9aH battery will work well with CL350 models but not sure about the 500cc models as they come with EFi which requires juice from the battery to run. Then again RE Himalayan comes with a 8aH battery and it too has EFi, so technically a 9aH battery can also be used in 500cc EFi equipped models as well.

[MechPrasad]

Bro Navin, Thanks for the information on the Thunderbird.

The latest hmln without a kick (as I have heard) comes with an 8AH, so it should work for the 500 too.

EDIT:
tb = Thunderbird
Hmln = Himalayan

MOD NOTE:- Please do NOT use acronyms when referring to cars / motorcycles. You are ONLY permitted to use the full Make & Model name for cars / motorcycles. This will make our content useful, searchable & easy-to-understand for experts & newbies alike.

Any further usage of acronyms will invite Moderator action on your account.

We advise you to read the Forum Rules *CAREFULLY* before proceeding any further.

Thanks!
__________________

[LeoChakraborthy]

I've booked a Bullet 500, with Bommasandra Motors (BLR) and expecting delivery by mid-Jan 2020. A friend of mine also have enquired about Bullet 500 at the same showroom. However, he was told that, all Bullet 500s from Jan 2020 will be BS6 complaint!!! But this is contradicting what we're hearing on the news, that production of all 500s are going to be stopped. And I didn't hear anything about this when I booked mine, just days earlier.

Can someone shed some light on this?

[ishan12]

Originally Posted by LeoChakraborthy

Can someone shed some light on this?

Although no one can tell you for sure unless they have a insider who can confirm.
But it is highly likely that come 2020, the 500 will be totally discontinued.

https://www.rushlane.com/royal-enfie...-12342029.html

https://www.livemint.com/companies/n...190072849.html

Infact, both the current UCE 350 and 500 will be discontinued and will be replaced by the new BS6 compliant SHOC engine. (likely 410 CC and leagues ahead of the current Jurassic engine).
The spy pics are already out and we also have a thread on that on Tbhp.

https://www.team-bhp.com/news/spy-im...tails-revealed


So unless you are really looking for that old school high torque thumper, I would suggest you wait for the new engines to arrive. Since, just in a couple of months you will end up with an "old model".
And do not pay any heed to what the dealer says.

[Who_are_you]

Hello folks,

I am planning to switch to fully synthetic oil for my Thunderbird 500 (MY 2013). I have few queries.

1. Which oil brand would you recommend ?
2. what change interval do you guys follow with synthetic oil ?
3. Do i need to use engine flush before switch? using Motul semi synthetic oil.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by Who_are_you

I am planning to switch to fully synthetic oil for my Thunderbird 500 (MY 2013). I have few queries.

.

Stick with what RE advises, check the owner manual, or check with RE. If they dont advise to use synthetic, do not.

Jeroen

[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by Who_are_you

Hello folks,

I am planning to switch to fully synthetic oil for my Thunderbird 500 (MY 2013). I have few queries.

1. Which oil brand would you recommend ?
2. what change interval do you guys follow with synthetic oil ?
3. Do i need to use engine flush before switch? using Motul semi synthetic oil.

Of course answering a question about oil opens the door for all sorts of disagreement but I'll give you my thoughts.

Any oil marketed by one of the major oil companies will be fine. Some of them have slightly better additives than others but all of them will be fine. Just remember, you are using this in a motorcycle so be sure the oil you buy is made specifically for motorcycles. I use Mobil 1 V Twin full synthetic in my Royal Enfield 500.

Motorcycles engines work harder than automobile engines. They often use the engine oil to lubricate the transmission which automobiles rarely do.
Transmission gears require protection for shearing of the oil between the gear teeth as they engage with one another. Motorcycle oils are made to deal with this problem.
It is also a good idea to make sure the oil used in a motorcycle meets JASO requirements. Any of the JASO classifications will work. This JASO requirement keeps the oil from causing excess slipping between the clutch plates in the "wet clutches" that most motorcycles use.
Using a regular automobile oil that does not meet this requirement can cause the clutch to slip. This is especially true with some modern auto oils that have special additives to reduce friction. Do not use these in your motorcycle.

I feel it is safe to double the mileage recommendations between oil changes if a quality Full Synthetic oil is being used.
The thing that makes synthetic oils last so much longer is the type of molecules they are made from.
Regular petroleum oils actually contain several types of oil molecules. Some of these last a long time before breaking down and others break down rather rapidly. Full synthetic oils are made using only the molecules that last a long time.

IMO you should NEVER use an "engine flush" when you change oil.
Many of these are nothing more than diesel fuel and putting them into your engine will contaminate your new oil, even if you thoroughly drain them out. Even a good engine flush will do nothing to improve the conversion from regular oil to the full synthetic oil so using them is a waste of money.

Modern synthetic engine oils are made to be totally compatible with all types of regular engine oils so the old oil that remains in the engine before adding your new synthetic oil will safely mix with the new oil without causing any problems.

It is a good idea on the Royal Enfield UCE powered motorcycles to lean or tip the motorcycle to the right and left while your draining the old oil out because there is quite a lot of old oil that is resting in the engine side cases. Leaning the motorcycle to the right and left will allow this oil to move to the center of the engine so it can drain out with the rest of the old oil.

[insidious]

I thought this might be the right thread to drop this in. I got my hands on the official price list for all RE motorcycles in Chennai, updated Jan 2020 (BS-6 prices). Please refer below for the same:



Hope this helps a few people!

[TravelMonk]

I'm not a mechanical expert, I'm still learning the stuff.
But I'm guessing this is bad. 'I should be really worried' bad. Is it? (Pic below)
The red circled part is the only 'wet' part. Seems to be leaking oil. Right? That's a first for this 5.5 years old motorcycle. And at an odd place.
Experts?

[adrian]

Originally Posted by TravelMonk

I'm not a mechanical expert, I'm still learning the stuff.
But I'm guessing this is bad. 'I should be really worried' bad. Is it? (Pic below)
The red circled part is the only 'wet' part. Seems to be leaking oil. Right? That's a first for this 5.5 years old motorcycle. And at an odd place.
Experts?

Oil leak through the valve rocker cover gasket. Nothing to worry about and loose sleep. Just get the gasket replaced and you will be fine as long as the oil level in your motorcycle is at the prescribed level.

If you are attempting DIY, then be super careful as the allen bolts are prone to strip when you try to remove them with the engine mounted in the frame. Some of these allen bolts come directly under the motorcycle frame. You will have to use the allen keys at an angle which will strip the socket of the allen bolt, unless you are careful. Also shock the bolts with a light stroke from the hammer using socket heads to transfer the force, before attempting to remove the allen bolts. Use new washers for the allen bolt when re assembling. Re tightening torque is 1 Kg/M as per the workshop manual.

[TravelMonk]

Originally Posted by adrian

Oil leak through the valve rocker cover gasket. Nothing to worry about and loose sleep. Just get the gasket replaced and you will be fine as long as the oil level in your motorcycle is at the prescribed level.

Thanks alot!
Seems like a job beyond my skill set.

Mod Note: Please quote ONLY the relevant bits of a post. Quoting a full, long post inconveniences our mobile readers.

[ArizonaJim]

Adding to adrian's advice given above, The bolts that hold the rocker covers in place are known as "shoulder bolts". The body of the bolt is larger than the threads and it is the lower part of the body that stops against the cylinder head that stops its downward movement when it is tightened.
This means, tightening it more than the recommended amount will not increase the tightness of the rocker cover against the gasket seal. Put another way, overtightening the bolt will not increase the sealing capabilities of the gasket.

I might add, the gasket in this location is a plastic sheet with rubber molded into it. It is the rubber that does the sealing and over time, it will lose its pressure against the cylinder head and the valve cover.
If you want to save some money I advise people to remove the gasket seal, clean all traces of oil off of the seal and the mating surfaces and then apply a good, oil resistant, silicone "gasket maker" adhesive to the surfaces.

This will seal the joint and it will not begin leaking after a few years of service but if the parts ever need to be taken apart, that job can still be easily done.
I don't know why Royal Enfield hasn't used it in the initial build.

[Hamza123]

Facing this issue in my 20 day old thunderbird. As per the service center it's vapour and normal. I don't buy it as it seems to be oil and wet when touched. Any solution?

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Hamza123

Facing this issue in my 20 day old thunderbird. As per the service center it's vapour and normal. I don't buy it as it seems to be oil and wet when touched. Any solution?

Clean the area and make sure its dry.

Ride the motorcycle hard, observe for leaks, if present get them to replace anything and everything to make sure the leak doesn't reoccur.

Make sure they do not jugaad it using liquid gasket maker.

Cheers,
A.P.

[Hamza123]

The leak was resolved by applying sealant over the wire area. Sorry not sure what's it called technically. Was taken care of during first service.