[Gansan]

Originally Posted by bblost

Don't idle it for so long.

Start riding as soon as you switch on the bike.
Oil needs to reach its optimal temperature for it to be effective.

I have to disagree. A minute of warm up after a cold start never harmed any engine, whether car or bike. It will in fact do a lot of good.

[Raccoon]

Originally Posted by Gansan

Always used Hero Honda 4T+, which they change in HHASS by default. I will book the service in advance for the week-end, ensure my bike goes on the ramp closest to the customer lounge and watch the entire proceedings. This oil is a very good synth oil, which is why I naively assumed Maruti will also use such an oil as MGO. If I remember right the bike came with Servo from the factory and the same oil was used during first service. From second service onwards it was 4T+.

Is that oil made by BPCL or Idemitsu or Tide Water? And 10W30 or 20W40? And what has your oil change interval been? I'm asking this because there seem to be a lot of varying opinions about HH oils, the viscosity and their drain duration. Since you have run your bike for about 75 k km, your case is useful.

How do you know that it was Servo in the sump when the bike came from the factory?

Originally Posted by bblost

Don't idle it for so long.

Start riding as soon as you switch on the bike.
Oil needs to reach its optimal temperature for it to be effective.

Just idling will delay that and you may cause harm to the engine.

Just keep those revs low till the bike has warmed up sufficiently and then take off, fly low.

Not a good idea to load the engine straight off when its cold! Remember that load will cause more wear! Idling for about a min. is alaways a good idea. In fact, I start with the idling RPM and then gradually raise it a bit to around the 2 k RPM mark before the minute is up and then ride off.

[RX135]

Who cares? Just rip it up and enjoy the ride

I like my RX screaming. It has done 80,000+ km (may be more but that damn speedometer gear keeps breaking off). Even after a decade, it still religiously touches 100 mark every day on bypass highway. What else does one want from it?

[Raccoon]

^^^ 80 k km on a 2 stroke engine... damn cool man! Which oils do you use?

Though we like to talk about a specific company and model of engine going for a specific distance without needing any work, in real life its not quite that simple. Thats because not all engines are the same, even from the same assembly line. We can only reach at a very rough estimate depending on statistics...

[Gansan]

Originally Posted by RX135

Who cares? Just rip it up and enjoy the ride

I like my RX screaming. It has done 80,000+ km (may be more but that damn speedometer gear keeps breaking off). Even after a decade, it still religiously touches 100 mark every day on bypass highway. What else does one want from it?

Is it RX 100 or RXG 135? RX 100 engines were square engines and known for their longevity. Did you re-bore the engine at any stage? If not, then it is phenomenal for a two stroke. What 2T oil do you use?

I always used Castrol Jet-X for my 2 strokes, but even then they needed re-boring around 40K KM.

[Gansan]

Originally Posted by Raccoon

Is that oil made by BPCL or Idemitsu or Tide Water? And 10W30 or 20W40? And what has your oil change interval been? I'm asking this because there seem to be a lot of varying opinions about HH oils, the viscosity and their drain duration. Since you have run your bike for about 75 k km, your case is useful.

How do you know that it was Servo in the sump when the bike came from the factory?

It is SAE 10W30, API SJ (JASO MA). Made by Idemitsu but branded as HH 4T+. I service the bike every 4000 KM /six months (whichever occurs earlier) and replace the oil every time, never bothered about the extended drain interval. I will wash the air filter with Kerosene and oil it (using 2T oil) myself once at the 2K Km mark in between the services.

The fellow at the House of Honda told me the oil in the sump was Servo and will be replaced with the same, when I went there for the first service. He also told me a new oil called 4T+ was coming and will be used from the second service onwards! This was in March 2000.

[mithun]

One of my relatives had a Kawasaki(Bajaj) 4S Champion which had clocked about 1.5L KMS !

Another interesting read : http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...ke-engine.html

[bblost]

Over Idling is BAD.
Anti-Idling Primer: Every Minute Counts

You need the engine oil to be warm for it to be effective.

This is especially so in the case of an engine with a catcon in it.

The only exception is a Turbo engine, which must be idled for 1 min at every start and stop.

[five46]

@ the thread author:
Also remember to change your spark plug once every year.

Originally Posted by bblost

Over Idling is BAD.
Anti-Idling Primer: Every Minute Counts

You need the engine oil to be warm for it to be effective.

This is especially so in the case of an engine with a catcon in it.

The article is quite informative bblost sir, but somehow I do not get convinced with reference to modern car engines.

What makes me ponder is the metallurgy of the engines manufactured in India. Are the engines in Indian manufactured vehicles at par with these referred modern car engines? Two wheelers in particular, many cars though are at par with their global avatars. The engines in two wheelers are still not as advanced as what we see outside India. We term the 'Diasil' cylinder in the R15 as superior technology, that should give an idea where we are.

I read one more article which was probably shared by phamilyman Sir if I can recollect it right.
Engine Break-in Secrets
Here too, the engines referred are much technologically advanced (Aargh!).
So, can this be applied on our engines as well? I've my apprehensions.

Coming to the matter of idling again, I know that its got to do more with only temperatures, but yet I'm still doubtful.

Would be very nice if you can kindly share your thoughts over this bblost Sir.

I may be wrong here, but with my Dio, for idling, I used to hear the engines tone, when it sounds normal, get off. Not rev harshly for atleast a km. of riding.

[RX135]

Originally Posted by Gansan

Is it RX 100 or RXG 135? RX 100 engines were square engines and known for their longevity. Did you re-bore the engine at any stage? If not, then it is phenomenal for a two stroke. What 2T oil do you use?

It is RX-135 (not RXG). And, not at all without its share of problems

I had to rebore it quite early in its life. Not due to any engine problem but my brother took it on highway without checking engine oil, result was seized engine It was, of course, not engine's fault.

Second time, immediately after changing piston rings, the piston itself conked off without any specific reason. I first thought, it was the connecting rod, but when we checked later, it was the piston broken. Never seen any before! May be poorly fitted and hence, misaligned piston rings?

However, it is all forgiven just because the way that engine screams, responds to the throttle, the way those gears shift smoothly (nothing comes close to a Yamaha, not even a Honda) and the way it handles. It is not a dragster, it is not the quickest or the fastest, it has hardest suspension, it has pathetic FE (31-36 kmpl) but despite of that, it is still too much fun to give way for these new kids on the block. These new butter smooth 4-strokers just don't give that adrenaline rush.

Every time there is new bike in market, I keenly follow it to see if it provides any significant upgrade on my RX, and every time I decide to drop the idea. Have been waiting for Yamaha to come up with something 250+.

[Sn1p3r]

@RX135 I too was the first few owners in fact the 10th owner (as the dealer mentioned and showed on the engine serial numbering) of RX135 even though RX100 was still on sale wayback in 1995-96.

The bike was very good but had lots of problems too. I remember my friends and I used to rip the roads of Delhi, soon the gang disbanded as few wanted to showcase the newly launched Splendor's 4stroke ability to sip petrol rather smell the petrol and run They always tried hard to keep up and few of them blew their engines to catch us in our RXs.

Again good thrill but with lots of niggling issues.

I think after that I got the kick while test riding Blade and MT-01 in Germany. Maybe it was the pleasure to be fastest or being young and wild at the time.

Enjoy the bike.

[bblost]

Originally Posted by five46

I may be wrong here, but with my Dio, for idling, I used to hear the engines tone, when it sounds normal, get off. Not rev harshly for atleast a km. of riding.

That sounds pretty much like what I do, myself.

Plus another good read from team-bhp itself
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...rting-off.html


Healthy engine tips:

1. Fuel: always fill from a good place. Stick to the same bunk. Always maintain a milage log. This will tell you if your bunk has started cheating with quality/ quantity.

2. Air: Maintain correct air preasure. Low pressure will mean more work for the engine. More air will cause handling and suspension issues.

3. Engine Oil: Keep checking it. When replacing oil, drain completely and fill to the correct level. Not more not less. Never mix used oil with new oil unless doing a top up in some remote location and have no other option.

4. Exhaust: Any change in colour or smell of the exhaust gases is serious.

5. Air Filter: Use standard air filter, replace every year.

6. Free roll the bike off a gentle slope with the engine off. This will highlight any abnormal sounds due to worn out bearings/ chain and other cycle parts.

7. Spare parts, insist on OEM parts. If using any non OEM do proper research before using it.

Ride safe.

[Gansan]

The owner's manual of my Alto clearly mentions "It is safe to apply load on the engine once the temperature gauge points to the C mark". That means idling is required, does it not?

[bblost]

Originally Posted by Gansan

The owner's manual of my Alto clearly mentions "It is safe to apply load on the engine once the temperature gauge points to the C mark". That means idling is required, does it not?

Gansan, I will really appreciate if you could do the following test.

1. Start cold engine and idle till it reaches the C mark. How much time?

2. Start cold engine, then wear your seat belt, shades, switch on blower*, roll up or roll down windows and get moving very easy with low revs.
How much time and distance before the C mark is reached?

*Blower -> I switch on my car ac after the temp meter reaches the half way mark.

[Gansan]

Originally Posted by bblost

Gansan, I will really appreciate if you could do the following test.

1. Start cold engine and idle till it reaches the C mark. How much time?

About a minute and a half.

2. Start cold engine, then wear your seat belt, shades, switch on blower*, roll up or roll down windows and get moving very easy with low revs.
How much time and distance before the C mark is reached?

Much sooner, but I will still be applying load before it reaches the C mark.

*Blower -> I switch on my car ac after the temp meter reaches the half way mark.

I follow this too. I have to negotiate about 1 KM of slow moving traffic before I access the main road. By then the gauge will be in normal temp range and I will switch on the A/C.

Please find my answers in bold.