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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyself
(Post 4758400)
Tomorrow, I will change tyres, the rear ones which came with the car and did 1.05 lakh km.
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Sir you are saying that those two tyres lasted 1.05L KMs? Which tyres are those? What are your driving conditions? How did you manage to extract this kind of mileage from your tyres?
When those tyres lasted this long, why do you need to think about it? Just go for the same make and model.
Btw, I have been using Yokohama Earth 1 and they are great allrounders. Would suggest Earth 1.
Quote:
Originally Posted by itsashishsharma
(Post 4760328)
Sir you are saying that those two tyres lasted 1.05L KMs?
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It is possible. The stock tyres on my Sumo Victa were changed at 97k (by second owner).
Be gentle when braking (anticipative braking), and you will see a difference in the life of tyres and brake-pads, and an increase in FE too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by condor
(Post 4760356)
It is possible. The stock tyres on my Sumo Victa were changed at 97k (by second owner).
Be gentle when braking (anticipative braking), and you will see a difference in the life of tyres and brake-pads, and an increase in FE too.
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Just to add, make sure to check tyre sir pressure on every refill or at least once a week.
Few of my personal thought,
Over inflated tyre will last longer but will harm the suspension & provide reduced grip (poor braking/poor cornering)
Where as, under inflated tyres will wear out much faster but may provide better grip to a certain extend & reduce fuel economy.
Trick is to find that right balance & making sure to check pressure regularly.
Often these tyre air pressure checking gauges are grossly faulty due to their calibration errors. So one must make sure to find or buy a well calibrated meter to make sure right air pressure is maintained & checked regularly.
Last of all, there are hard compound tyres & soft compound performance tyres. Most of the mass market vehicles always ship with OEM tyres which are on harder side. Some times threads stay fine on these tyres but grip levels drop drastically over time. So driving feel too should be taken into consideration, not just the thread levels.
Thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by itsashishsharma
(Post 4760328)
Sir you are saying that those two tyres lasted 1.05L KMs? Which tyres are those? What are your driving conditions? How did you manage to extract this kind of mileage from your tyres?
When those tyres lasted this long, why do you need to think about it? Just go for the same make and model.
Btw, I have been using Yokohama Earth 1 and they are great allrounders. Would suggest Earth 1.
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Last 30 K km are on the rear. Had these been brought to the front wheels, then we might had seen a slight dip in the mileage done.
I live in a town. Even the Bridgestone B250 was not in stock that day. Forget about Michelin and Yokohama. Another factor is, these are 185/60/15 s where as the available ones are 184/65/15 s.
As for the driving conditions, the last 30000 km are mostly on four lanes with about 20 percent rough roads.
Hi guys!
I'm Close to hitting 80000 on my zest XT diesel 2014. The gear shifts, especially down shift from second to first and third to second while slow speeds and N to first are getting stuck. I know its time to replace the clutch assy hence the question.
How much would it cost? Has any done it yet? If yes, can you please gimme a breakup?
TIA
Quote:
Originally Posted by bullet_chacha
(Post 4806869)
I know its time to replace the clutch assy hence the question.
How much would it cost? Has any done it yet? If yes, can you please gimme a breakup?
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For the pricing estimate, take a look at this
link.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bullet_chacha
(Post 4806869)
Hi guys!
I'm Close to hitting 80000 on my zest XT diesel 2014. The gear shifts, especially down shift from second to first and third to second while slow speeds and N to first are getting stuck. I know its time to replace the clutch assy hence the question.
TIA
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It's mostly the dreaded synchronizer issue. It may cost 2k over the regular clutch replacement expenses(varies from 9-10k) inclusive of the spares(excluding the flywheel) and labour at an FNG.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bullet_chacha
(Post 4806869)
Hi guys!
I'm Close to hitting 80000 on my zest XT diesel 2014. The gear shifts, especially down shift from second to first and third to second while slow speeds and N to first are getting stuck. I know its time to replace the clutch assy hence the question.
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Have you tried double-clutching (release and press clutch pedal at neutral during gear shirt)? If the gears shift better this way compared to usual (press clutch, shift from one gear to neutral to other gear and then release clutch) - then like jetsetgo08 says, it would include synchronizer along with clutch I suspect.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jetsetgo08
(Post 4806905)
It's mostly the dreaded synchronizer issue. It may cost 2k over the regular clutch replacement expenses(varies from 9-10k) inclusive of the spares(excluding the flywheel) and labour at an FNG.
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Lemme check. I may have unintentionally done this, but never noticed. However, if the accelerator is pressed slightly, I can shift gears easily.
Also, what if I'm still not able to go the 2-N-1 way?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bullet_chacha
(Post 4806931)
Also, what if I'm still not able to go the 2-N-1 way?
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If you notice trouble downshifting in one bout of clutch pedal press and release, it points to a synchronizer ring issue.
If there is clutch judder when moving from standstill in 1st gear, then either the clutch or release bearing are toast. In either case, both should be replaced.
If not its then most likely just the synchronizer ring issue. If you don't intend to keep the car for long you may skip the clutch replacement.
But, in either case getting the clutch pack replaced is suggested as a better.
Anyone know what a “key bar” is in relation to the music system on the Zest XT? Problem started with intermittent operation of the music system (Harman), and now it is generally not working.
The ASC said that the “key bar” needs to be replaced at 9k+, with labour being another 3.5k. I’m not sure wether this is a part of the music system or the ignition key cylinder?
I’m trying to get in touch with someone from a different service centre for an explanation and opinion too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rajesh1868
(Post 4835246)
You have not run much but still how old is the battery?
I had intermittent issues which went away once I replaced battery.
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Thanks for the info, the battery in my car was replaced last year with a Tata Green.
Two updates since my post:
1. They were saying “key barrel”, it just sounded like bar to me stupid:
2. They would have to replace all of the key barrels including the boot
The ASC I went to aren’t sure this will fix the problem, and based on the previous symptoms and the diagnosis I think it is moisture from the humid Kerala weather combined with the fact that the car hasn’t been running much. No AC to dry out the interiors.
I’ve told them to skip this one, and I’ll try running the car with AC on for 20 mins a day to see if that helps. If not - will cross that bridge when I get to it.
Recently, was looking at Altroz specs and noticed that the 1.2L NA 3-cylinder engine produce 86PS of power whereas, 1.2L "turbocharged" petrol engine in Zest produce 90PS. Given the engine are same family, how come Altroz's non turbo engine is producing almost the same power? Is their a way to get Zest's engine tuned to give more power ir is it even recommended?
Quote:
Originally Posted by devilicious
(Post 4841542)
Recently, was looking at Altroz specs and noticed that the 1.2L NA 3-cylinder engine produce 86PS of power whereas, 1.2L "turbocharged" petrol engine in Zest produce 90PS. Given the engine are same family, how come Altroz's non turbo engine is producing almost the same power? Is their a way to get Zest's engine tuned to give more power ir is it even recommended?
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Minor correction, the Zest 1.2 Revotron 4-Cylinder is based on the Indica Xeta 4-Cylinder engine, whereas the Altroz has the 1.2 engine which a reworked engine of the Tiago/Tigor, developed for Nexon (and Altroz).
May not be wise to re-tune the Zest revotron when the car already has different modes to drive. Sports mode should give the best output, although it may still be under powered compared to the competition in the real world
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