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Quote:

Originally Posted by fine69 (Post 4339931)
From what I read and discussed with her, formaldehyde is used everywhere, the quantity varies and what may make a difference would be getting E0 grade plywood (hard to find and expensive I guess) but even E0 has formaldehyde in it.

check bison board option as well which rdst_1 suggested it looks good option and prelaminated finish is available. The rates available online are much cheaper then commercial ply.

For normal commercial ply Urea is used as bonding agent.. Boiling water proof ply uses formaldehyde but quantity is controlled in good brands vs Chinese ply. It's not just fire but in normal usage too in closed rooms you can feel pungent smell for months.

Marine ply is expensive used in boats and ships I think you don't need marine ply BWP should be sufficient for any cupboard.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdst_1 (Post 4339630)
I should have been clear that when I was talking about cement boards, I was actually talking about Bison Panel which is a cement reinforced particle board.

https://www.nclind.com/why-bison-panel

Are these popular from an availability standpoint?
Quote:

Originally Posted by civic-sense (Post 4340139)
According to what I have read, urea formaldehyde is the bad one, while phenol formaldehyde is less hazardous. Phenol formaldehyde is used in waterproof plywoods.

Quote:

Originally Posted by amitk26 (Post 4340142)
For normal commercial ply Urea is used as bonding agent.. Boiling water proof ply uses formaldehyde but quantity is controlled in good brands vs Chinese ply.

Is Boiling Water Proof the same as Waterproof plywoods? I've never got furniture made so far but if formaldehyde is going to be this big an issue I'd rather get waterproof plywood instead.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fine69 (Post 4340474)
Are these popular from an availability standpoint?

They have listed both distributors and area sales manager on their website. They will be able to guide you better. Also, this is a particle board at the end of the day and a very heavy one at that, so all the precautions that need to be taken especially with respect to edges and providing proper support will have to be undertaken by people who are used to working with particle boards.
I haven't used them till now, but will be using their laminated offerings soon as exterior claddings on fence wall as well as in lieu of ACP sheets for my fence and gate as well.

Found a link explaining various kinds of plywood
http://blog.positiveindians.in/plywo...f-plywood.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by amitk26 (Post 4340608)
Found a link explaining various kinds of plywood
http://blog.positiveindians.in/plywo...f-plywood.html

Had gone through this quite a long time ago.
Best solution is always going for 100% hardwood plywood whether Gurjan or Teak as they are naturally resistant to termites. One could still get termiticide treatment done to be 99% sure of termite resistance.
We had used Hollock when we built our house 25yrs ago and Cedar now and both are varieties which are naturally resistant to termites and both have stood the test of time at our house.
Apply good grade polyurethane finish to 100% hardwood ply and you should be golden for years to come with simple regular maintenance of the film finish of polhurethane. If VOCs are questionable one can very easily buy and get sprayed water based polyurethanes but they do have shorter life and ruggedness compared to oil based poly. One mistake that many painters would make is they only paint/spray the visible side of the furniture/cabinet. That will always lead to warping due to uneven moisture absorption. That is why it is necessary to apply the protective finish, whether paint or clear polyurethane before assembling the piece, something only top grade furniture houses do. When getting work done at home, one should ensure that all sides get protective finish.

Hi team!

I need some help (ideas) for the new flat we'll be renting out from next month.

Some wise fellow at DLF decided to use modular doors & windows all over the place and they are all glass with metal frames. Security is not a concern as it's a gated area, but mosquitoes would be a headache in the summers.

Only one bedroom has sliding windows, so cloth mesh can be fixed outside. All other doors and windows are swing-open type, while the main door is double sliding glass.

The windows, especially in bathrooms, would have to kept ajar during the summers for proper ventilation. Other windows would be opened once in while for some cross ventilation, like early mornings, otherwise ac's would be running mostly.

My parents would never allow All-out or anything similar inside the house (it's a mild pesticide, right?).
So what other options could I consider?

- Any cost effective way to install cloth/wire mesh while keeping the windows usable?
- For the doors, it would be more of a preventing/ warding off mosquitoes project. Has anyone experimented with essential oils to repel mosquitoes? Like tea tree or lemon grass diffusers available from FabIndia?
- Finally to catch the ones who do sneak in, how in/effective are electronic fly-traps (the pale blue light with current carrying wire-mesh)?

Thanks :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by mn2363 (Post 4356380)
Hi team!

I need some help (ideas) for the new flat we'll be renting out from next month.

Are you talking about DLF valley Panchkula?

-Ijeet

Mod Note: Please quote ONLY the relevant bits of a post. Quoting a full, long post inconveniences our mobile readers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ijeet (Post 4357122)
Are you talking about DLF valley Panchkula?

-Ijeet

No, this would be DLF Hyde Park New Chandigarh. Do the Panchkula ones have similar setup?

Quote:

Originally Posted by mn2363 (Post 4356380)
I need some help (ideas) for the new flat we'll be renting out from next month.

Some wise fellow at DLF decided to use modular doors & windows all over the place and they are all glass with metal frames.

Do the window have extra channels or space / possibility of adding wire mesh shutters? If yes, get them made. If not, your options are to get 'Netlon' mosquito mesh panels which are fixed over the frame. Or get stainless steel wire mesh panels fitted on from inside (with a gap for handles to be able to operate the glass shutters).

Third option is to remove all these windows and get new UPVC / wooden / aluminium ones.

This is the classic builders way of doing things: give something that needs to be replaced anyways, but still make the customers pay for it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mn2363 (Post 4356380)
Hi team!

I need some help (ideas) for the new flat we'll be renting out from next month.

Since you are renting out look for a flat with mosquito mesh fitted.
Usually Plastic net using welcrow is the option most house owners provide in rental properties.

Quote:

Originally Posted by architect (Post 4358177)
Do the window have extra channels or space / possibility of adding wire mesh shutters?

No, cost cutting by the builder as you said.

Quote:

If not, your options are to get 'Netlon' mosquito mesh panels which are fixed over the frame. Or get stainless steel wire mesh panels fitted on from inside (with a gap for handles to be able to operate the glass shutters).
Thanks, will look into both options. Even loosely fitted cloth mesh might work from inside.

Quote:

Third option is to remove all these windows and get new UPVC / wooden / aluminium ones.
The landlords, though an extremely nice elderly couple, won't shell out that sort of money (and they are already providing more than a dozen extras for no additional cost), and neither would I.

Quote:

Originally Posted by amitk26 (Post 4358298)
Since you are renting out look for a flat with mosquito mesh fitted.
Usually Plastic net using welcrow is the option most house owners provide in rental properties.

The whole project has these same metal-glass fittings and no one has installed mesh yet (possessions started last spring). Besides, this was the 6th flat we saw in this project that me and my parents could all agree on lol:.

Have been reading through this thread to get reference of agencies who can fix seepage issues in the bathroom. I have seepage in my apartment. The side walls outside the bathroom has bubbles and paint has come out. Anyone has any experience with any agency in Bangalore who does this kind of work.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kibzu (Post 4368232)
Have been reading through this thread to get reference of agencies who can fix seepage issues in the bathroom. I have seepage in my apartment. The side walls outside the bathroom has bubbles and paint has come out. Anyone has any experience with any agency in Bangalore who does this kind of work.

You could try this person

Mr Rajkumar,
97430 18382

Too early for me to comment on the outcome of the fixes done by him, but seems to know his stuff. Good luck!

Quote:

Originally Posted by mvadg (Post 4368936)
You could try this person

Mr Rajkumar,
97430 18382

Too early for me to comment on the outcome of the fixes done by him, but seems to know his stuff. Good luck!

Thankyou, let me check that out :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by kibzu (Post 4368232)
Have been reading through this thread to get reference of agencies who can fix seepage issues in the bathroom. I have seepage in my apartment. The side walls outside the bathroom has bubbles and paint has come out. Anyone has any experience with any agency in Bangalore who does this kind of work.

Try and get the CAUSE of the seepage identified. It is usually leaking pipes or joints in the plumbing supply or drainage piping, poorly done plaster or pointing on the walls or a badly made joint between walls / columns / beams or other parts of the structure. Water proofing will only solve part of the problem or solve it for a short while.


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