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Thank you. Will call an electrician to check it soon.
Can something like that affect just one bulb & not the other bulbs in the home?

Well!
I had a broken tubelight choke, from the kitchen, cause all sorts of dramas around the house! :Frustrati

That's exactly what I am asking. If something was wrong near the junction then wouldn't I see a problem in more bulb fixtures around the house - but I am currently an issue in only one bulb fixture.

It's about the switch. Just tgat single switch may be put on the neutral wire, which means that the phase wire is always connected to the bulb, which makes it glow.

As other have pointed out, it is most likely the case of neutral going through the switch and live going directly to the socket bulb holder. This can lead to some residual current causing that faint glow.

A better LED bulb circuitry would block this. Easier fix in your case could be ensuring the live wire feeds through the switch.

Another thing this highlights - the incredible light sensitivity of the human eye! Many experiments have determined this sensitivity to be to the degree of single photons. That's how awesome our vision is!

The switch & holder are quite far from each other - not even in the same wall. But his still can happen? Sorry if that's a stupid question.
Yeah, it's happening only with a cheap LED bulb which I put in temporarily for a few days till I get a new one over the weekend. Did not happen with the branded one I had earlier. But it's better to get the switch fixed, right?

Experienced it first hand when we moved recently. One room had badly wired switches. When we moved in, the 15 amp switch connected to the A/C outlet had its indicator permanently on, and the CFL/LED bulbs in the room would continue a faint glow when switched off.

Took the switchboard apart and rewired it correctly. Problemo solved.

You know the good adage on 'questions' - "there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers!"

But yes, this can happen immaterial of the distance between the switch and the bulb-holder. Typically though, if the distance between the two is too much, there might have been an additional (second) switch that was planned in the early stages of the design. So, if you find a switch in the vicinity that doesn't seem to be doing anything, it's quite likely it was supposed to be that second switch for the bulb-holder point in question.

A lazy, callous worker might have chosen to ignore it!

Absolutely. Best to get it fixed. It can be a hazard otherwise - fire, electrical shock, etc. The hazard probability increasing with age of the installation and building - insulation wearing off, some water seepage creeping in, etc.

I need to get a home interior painted. would like to get it done with a paint that is as non toxic and low VOC (ideally zero VOC) as possible. Since we'll be stayin in the house while its being painted and immediately after it is important that it does not have any toxic side effects or strong smell.


I Have narrowed it down to following:


1.Nerolac Impressions Eco clean (<4 g/l VOC)
2. Asian paints Tractor emulsion (24.14 g/l VOC)


The other options are Berger easy breathe and Dulux Guardian. Unable to find the VOC values for them though.
Would experienced folks have any suggestion. I just need a simple durable finish in plain white, with a matt finish.

I thought of building own home, but now almost shortlisted a villa project in Bangalore. It might have been cheaper to construct myself, but looking at cost of land, security, not knowing architects/ contractors, I thought might be better off by going this route. I guess we will see how end result comes about.

Got this looked at by a good electrician. What he said was that this was because I have a 2 way switch on the point. The bulb can be switched off and on from 2 different places - 2 toggle switches - one on the main switch board & one next to the bed. Hence the current leakage. As per him, nothing can be done about it, but it won't harm anything, nor will it be visible with a branded bulb - which is true.

I am trying to install this cylindrical lock - it's a replacement, so the slots are all in place. One question:

These locks have a detent (as they call it) to be used during emergency opening. I need to change the position of this on one side. The steps for this as provided on the instruction leaf-let are not clear.




Has anyone done this ? Pls let me know how to change the position of the detent.

I have used these detents to open stuck locks a few times.


Don't know if this would help but:


• The detents are at 6'o clock position on keyhole side and 9'o clock on the other - for left side opening doors, and


• 12'o clock on keyhole side & 3'o clock on the opposite - for right side opening doors.

These detents are importantly for opening stuck doors, though used in installation too :)

We have a left opening door. 6 O'clock on outside - and damnedly - 3 O'clock on the inside, which is towards the door frame. I wanted to try and move the inner side detent to 9 or 6, but somehow, when I tried to follow those instructions, the key position has moved from 6 to 3 :(


But thanks for that info about right /left opening door & corresponding position.

I used some 3M double-sided tape to stick some things to the wall for my daughter\'s birthday celebration. stupid: Now, I am finding it difficult to remove the tape from the walls. I searched online and tried scraping with nails after heating the tape using a hair dryer. The thing that went off was some skin from my fingers.

Can anyone suggest some way to remove the tape?