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Both PVC/WPVC and MDF have screw creep and with time the holes get damaged. There fore established manufacturers do not use wood screws in these materials, but Nuts & Bolts for all jobs. Even the hinges are nut-bolt types. As hinges; especially good one made of SS; are expensive premier modular kitchens using MDF/PVC cost a bomb compared to those made from wood/ply.

So if you want to use MDF or PVC based material, please get Nuts & Bolt fittings from a leading supplier and do not rely on wood screws.

One alternative of lamination is membrane wrapping, at least in Bangalore there are factories where carpenters take the panels and get them wrapped and pressed. The finish is same as what big companies such as livespace and godrej gives all edges covered on full panel and no gaps. Also the panel is machine pressed to give various designs if required.
Advantage of going with independent carpenter / contractor for lamination work instead of company is you can ensure particle board and MDF is not used.

Another alternative to use of 1mm PVC sheet instead of normal laminate with 90 degree band.
This is pasted on plywood like normal laminate but at the edge a groove is made in sheet with a tool and bend at 90 degree so you see no joints.

I some work done in my current flat from an independent contractor 2 years back and it is holding fine.

Original wood work was done by traditional lamination 15 yrs ago it is still going strong and instead of edge tape I went with wood strip at the edge.

Thanks. Actually I myself was thinking if there is any way nuts and bolts could be used instead of screws! Wasn't aware that this is established procedure! Will explore this option too. But other issues with the PVC boards available are making me kind of wary of these now.



Thanks for the information. I'd explore these too, but am not very hopeful of the availability of such mechanized lamination in my town. I see many flat owners around (for whom cost is no object) having their woodwork done by just regular carpenters employing manual lamination. They don't seem to be too concerned about the quality of the core material either, since such woodwork are considered to be disposable things to be replaced every few years! That's a very different mindset compared to mine!
.

Attaching pictures of membrane wrapping as you can see edge of panel is covered with same membrane and there are no air bubbles /gaps also a grooved design is made while pressing.

Core material used here is ply in most branded membrane covered panels in market core is either MDF / Particle board. There are all sorts of colors available I chose wooden finishes in the extension work to match with veneer finish in original woodwork.

Experts,

For my house makeover I am looking reduce thickness of one wall in my house. Wall is shared by kitchen and kids bedroom. If I reduce thickness of wall then it will free 8" of space.
One side of wall will have kitchen and overhead cabinets. Other side of wall will get wardrobe which will occupy freed space.

Now considering this, what kind of partition shall I use? Wooden would be sufficient? Or is there any options of thin cemented wall? Or readymade slabs of cement?

While searching online, I came across Soundproof Gypsum Board Wall. Is it right solution?

Can I use such arrangement for Bathroom walls?

Maybe OT!
But, is there any fool proof / long term if not a permanent solution for wall leakages.

My flat has two areas (walls) which are exposed to rain/moisture; have been contemplating what is the best alternative available. Wall Tiles seems to be the only one, using some Dr. Fixit & POP is the tried and tested option albeit short-term and also monsoons related.

Await your responses.

1. If feasible, consider stress work - 60 cm or less shert, like a sloped roof on side of the wall.
2. Remember that if this is a larger building, water seeping in elsewhere can flow through internal crack lines.
3. Grouting
4. A skilled worker can apply plain cement as if it is paint. This will close off hairline cracks. Then do some external painting. Use good quality cement paint. This in the realm of jugaad.

MRF has a speciality coatings division. Try contacting them or lok them up on their website.

You can look at Aerocon wall panels they are in 50mm and 75mm thickness. Aerocon is brand of Birla there are several other local versions of Cement Sandwich panels as well.
You can paste tiles on these with cement.

Gypsum board is generally used as dry wall to cover blockworks and may not
hold long for bathroom and kitchen

That is pre fabricated wall. Saves on labour and time. Have seen a house at Aroor made of this material. Looks and feels identical to houses of brick / cement blocks. That was during housewarming 7 years back.

Aerocon is, I believe similar material. "Autoclaved aerated concrete". Contains flyash, cement, etc.

Thank you for your valuable suggestion. This really looks the perfect solution I am looking for.

The prefabricated walls you are talking about is GFRG it is quite popular in Kerala as FACT in Kochi supplies these panels ( 10m X12m size) . These are 5.25 inch panels with hollow cavity and query dust + 5% cement is filled in the cavity after erecting panels at the site with cranes for external walls. Steel reinforcement bars forming micro beams and columns can also be provided inside the cavity for load bearing.

One BHPIan on this thread constructed 2nd floor on his house with this material.

However Aerocon panel is AAC with an aerated plastic material sandwiched and available in smaller size 8feet x 4feet so suitable for using as indoor non load bearing partition.

Using GFRG panels has two practical problems

1. Finding skilled contractor who can execute your design , I did a lot of research and talked to 3/4 people however finding reliable skilled people was difficult so abandoned and started construction of my house with traditional method.
2. You need space for cranes to operate to erect the panel so not suitable for adding internal partition at later stage.

I need to install a Lightning Protection System for my house. We get our fair share of thunderstorms every year and a huge one just passed over my house. Everytime I unplug all the appliances and even take out the main fuse. I know that I would still need to continue taking those precaution as a direct lightning strike, even with a lightning protection system installed, can easily harm all aplliances that are connected.
What are the things to look out for when getting a LPS installed. We already have a metal roof. Should the conductor cable that connects the roof terminals to the ground rod touch the roof or not touch it.
Also do ESI lightning protection systems actually work. I am finding contradictory information online regarding them. They are quite expensive but are supposed to provide coverage to multiple buildings in a specified radius. Since I also have a huge cow shed nearby, I could spring for such a system if it actually worked.
Thanks in advance for your valuable inputs.

If the electrical surge due to lightning enters you wiring (and that can happen easily), then most of the protection systems fail primarily due to the response times of the devices.

Fast response time devices are normally single use (they blow like a fuse) and are very expensive.

The best option used world wide is to install a lightning arrestor. It consists of :

1. A sturdy metal rod pointed at the tip anchored at the highest point of the building.

2. A metal plate (preferably copper) at least 30cm x 30cm x 2mm burried in a earth pit constructed in soil, filled with charcoal and salt for better conductivity.

3. A thick copper strip - 12mm x 3mm connecting the rod and the plate, bolted on (for mechanical strength) and soldered (for electrical connectivity) to the rod and the plate.

This is how it works without fail when air is charged and lighting can occur :

. Pointed tip rod forms an easy path to trap the electrical discharge.
. The copper strip carries the electrical charge to the plate where it is discharged to the ground.

Just ensure that the rod has a tapered pointed tip and is mounted at the highest point of the building. Do not skimp on the copper strip or the earth pit and plate as the lightning needs an easy path, otherwise it may just take the next easy path through your electrical wiring, especially if you have over head mains distribution.

I agree with amitk26. Aerocon is the best way to make walls which are thin. If the height is below 8' go for 50 mm thickness, otherwise go for the 75 mm. Just make sure the top and bottom channels (G. I. sections) which hold the panels are fitted correctly. Get an authorised installer. Aerocon works well because its surface finish is good for painting and tiling.

We are looking for an Hyderabad/Secunderabad based architect or civil engineer to assist us to renovate a duplex, which includes installing an elevator. Will appreciate if the twin city members of the forum can suggest some names.