[hgps]

Chaper 1 : Hatred (2006-2011)
“I hate bikes, I hate people who ride them” – A young obese boy of 8th standard shouted at his friend. His friend had done a mistake of informing him about newly launched Apache 180. “I’d rather buy a second hand Maruti 800 for that price” he said, seeing the 70k or so on road price in the 2006 issue of “motoring” magazine. Little did he knew that he’ll be forever hooked to motorcycles just 5 years after…
Yes this is my story, and that fat guy happens to be me.

Chapter 2: Biker is born (2011-2015)
2011: “I don’t want a bike, Buy me a Honda Activa or I’m fine with my Bicycle” I yelled at my father who had just given me a brochure for Honda CB Shine and CB Twister. I was fresh out of School had just taken Admission in a college located 8KM from my house. Long story short, My father convinced me to get a bike instead of scooter and I managed to convince him that I’d (or rather, he would) buy a bike of my Choice instead of usual commuter 100-125cc bikes (yes I do feel guilty now). Visited Honda Showroom, nothing interesting except newly launched CBR250R. 1.64L for a bike seemed ridiculous (Who knew what would happen 4 years later). I finally shortlisted FZ16 and Apache 180 ABS. While FZ was love at first sight, Apache was shortlisted only for its ABS. My father made final decision to buy a FZ-S Black cyber green.



Spent 4 years and 23000KMs (now over 33,000KMs) with FZ and what a time it was, Butter smooth engine, Oodles of torque from 2000RPM. It was (and still is) most fun to ride bike in city traffic. Helped me learn about DIY bike maintenance, riding techniques (engine braking, throttle blipping, counter steering, and proper use of front brakes).
It turned me into the biker I am now , Dani Pedrosa fan who doesn’t need a reason to ride. CBR1000RR repsol wall poster took the place of Ferrari 430 scuderia in my bedroom along with various scale models of repsol honda motogp and street bikes. FZ is now 8 years old, still lying at my parents house. Sitting idle most of the times. Waiting for me to ride (and admire its looks) once in every two months.

Chapter 3: Dreams do come true (2015-2019)
2015: “Should I buy a Duke 390?”
I asked my bike fanatic friend who I had met just a couple of days ago. I had just moved out of my hometown after completing graduation and was pursuing my MBA. Homesick, lonely, missing my dog, my bike. I was heartbroken. Parents had already denied my request to bring my FZ-S along with me. I decided to pour my savings into a bike. I had decided that my next bike must fulfill the following criteria –
ABS, Fuel injection, liquid cooling.

I always had a soft spot for KTM Duke Series and Duke 390 was obvious upgrade over FZ. on the other hand i wanted to finally add a 1:1 bike to my Repsol honda scale model collection. Unable to decide, A few questions were running in my mind.

How will you afford petrol, these bikes return poor efficiency – “I’ll ride on weekends only” my answer was.

How will you afford maintenance costs, it has bad reputation for reliability – “ummm..KTM spares are cheap right?”

Buy a CBR250R ABS? “Standard Black/Red is too plain and ugly. Will buy it only if I can find a Repsol Edition”

And So I did.







Funny thing: Managed to stall it 7 times while taking out first time. I was so used to low end torque of my FZ.

I wish I could create a separate thread for ownership experience of my CBR 250R. It was beautiful, reliable and comfortable. Jack of all trades. It kept me happy during hardest phases of my life and became an identity of me. Apart from regular maintenance, It required rocker arm component replacement once (Rs.2800 including labor) to solve ticking noise from engine. Front tyre was changed at 32000 KMs (MRF FC1) and rear was changed at around 24000 KMs (MRF Masseter X), Battery was changed at 34000 KMs to Amaron. Stock excide worked fine for 3 years and 9 months. Brake pads were changed twice. Longest ride I ever did was Lucknow to patna 595 KMs. Loved every single moment with my CBR250R.





warning: Things will get boring from here

Chapter 4: Dream vs Responsibility (2017-19)
Being a grown up isn't fun. I realized it in this period. While i was adding KMs to my CBR250R, Many things happened, I graduated out of college, got a job in a different city, got married and suddenly owning a superbike seemed like a distant dream. Being a fresher out of college I had barely saved a couple of lakhs before I got married. Things change after you marry someone. You no longer live for yourself. Expenses dramatically increased, combined with family pressure of buying a house. I knew it’s the time I have to make a decision, It was now or never moment. I took money from every source I could get, All of my savings, my bonus, my company’s leave allowances, personal loan, loan from employer. Even sold off my beloved CBR250R. I had to sell it off after friends and better half convinced me that I won’t be able to maintain 5 vehicles in my garage. Moreover I was eyeing on a preowned ninja 1000 so every penny I could save counted. I got a descent deal on my CBR250R and I had to let it go. It was a decision I regret everyday, still miss my 250R. Wish I hadn’t sold it.

Posing for the one last time



This is the last ever photo i took. During ownership transfer at local RTO




Chapter 5: Superbike hunt
With a budget of 6.5L I started my pre-owned Superbike hunt. I wasn’t interested in parallel twins so Kawasaki 650 series was out. I had no faith in benelli (although loved its exhaust note). I liked street triple 675 which I still believe is most suited for my usage. Drooled over Daytona. But there is no triumph showroom in my city and Spare parts availability (more so, affordability) will be a huge question mark. Taking all these points I finalized 3 bikes, CBR 650F, Z900 and Ninja 1000. Visited some dealers in Delhi NCR area only to realize that there is one more requirement.
The bike must be UP registered.
Some photos taken during my sbk hunt:

Dream bike, hope to own it someday


However I believe this will be the one when i finally (if i ever) intend to upgrade


Look at those beauties



As i intended to get full transfer of ownership done. I wasn't comfortable getting an out of state bike from the dealers i had visited. Meanwhile my friend from chapter 3, suggested me to visit honda showroom and ask for used bike deals there. I found 3 used CBR 650F on offer there, 2 of them were ridiculously priced. Other one was having a relatively high mileage on its odo (still on lower 5 digit number below 15,000 KM). The bike was bone stock except for tank pad and aftermarket windshield. I casually made an offer and left. Negotiation continued over the phone and finally a descent deal was set. The guy who was selling happened to be a fellow teambhpian. A genuine chap who showed all the service history, scratches with the bike. Was very patient and friendly. Finally the day came. And I made biggest wire transfer in my life. The bhpian who sold me his 650F picked his 650R on the very same day.



Coming straight from CBR250R to CBR650F, The power was intimidating, Bike revs so quickly and picks speed at such pace that I was all shaking for 5 minutes after taking my first TD. Signed all the papers with shaky hands. 4 month down the line with over 2000 KMs under my belt. Power no longer feels intimidating. Power delivery is linear. No power wheelies or drama even if you twist the throttle aggressively (although rear wheel may spin in first gear). Bike is very silent under 5000rpm. Even active/splendor riding beside you make much more noise. However post 7000rpm it’s a completely different story. While you’re holding on for your life, people will turn around to see what is making all that screaming noise. The bike is more comfortable than CBR250R. Engine although is vibey at high rpm. Its not much of an issue considering my usage that requires going to high rpm only under hard acceleration.

The bike required the following problems sorted:
Front brake required work: the brake lever used to sink on initial application. Changed master cylinder and bled the brakes twice. Still problem persisted. (details will be posted later how this was rectified)
Minor oil leak from clutch case (near CKP sensor wire)

Problems faced later during ownership: (details will be posted later)
Middle two cylinders occasionally dying
Clutch plates replacement DIY

Upgrades planned/done so far (details will be posted later)
1. Tank grip: done
2. Radiator guard: done
3. Exhaust: done
4. Touring windshield: pending
5. Tail tidy: Confused, considering i carry my wife as pillion most of the times.

Current riding gear:
Helmet : SPG Kranos hornet
Jacket: Scala Marvel
Gloves: Aspida phaeton
Boots: Orazo Picus
Riding gear uprade will be done in phased manner

Fuel efficiency: getting 14.5L in my casual ride inside the city. Dealing with traffic and accelerating like maniac on open stretches.

Kindly excuse inconsistent flow of narration and poor quality photos. This is my first ever ownership thread. Written in different moods over a span of 4 months. Special thanks to @Rachit.K.Dogra @BoltThrower for their informative threads and youtube videos.

Enjoy some photos:













Posing for a photo:


Apartment parking, Always covered up to avoid unnecessary attention and dust








Photo taken last week with all upgrades installed (details will be posted soon)

[hgps]

With emotional part out of my head. Coming to the more relevant stuff:


Power: 86bhp, more than enough for Indian roads. Coming from a 250, acceleration was scary at first. However a friend who has ridden Z900 and liter bikes felt that CBR650f was unexciting. Engine is very tractable. Pulling from 2000 RPM in 6th gear? No problem. No lugging at all. Power comes in a very linear fashion. Good amount of torque down low for city use and significant power surge after 7000rpm (rear wheel may spin if one’s not careful)




Engine heat is very manageable. I mostly ride in city, I haven’t faced any heating issue even in hot august summer being stuck in traffic jams daily for 30 minutes. Clutch isn’t as hard as Royal Enfield and liter class super bikes. Bike doesn’t demand high octane petrol unlike Z900/ninja 1000. Runs perfectly fine on standard RON91 petrol. I use regular BPCL petrol most of the times and get 14.5kpl in city use. Tank capacity Is 17.3L giving theoretical range of around 350 KM on highway (where it returns 20-21 kpl). Reserve is around 4L after fuel indicator starts blinking.

Stock headers with Radiator guard



17.3L fuel tank






Handling: Don’t know how it would perform in corners as I don’t do knee dragging and such stuff. I can however tell how it handles in city traffic. Bike is difficult to change directions (again, compared to 250R), this is mostly due to my almost bald rear tyre and its heavy 215 KG weight. I ride with my wife as pillion most of the times. Bike’s weight hasn’t so far been bothersome to me but it does restrict street maneuverability. Seat height is 810mm. I am 5’10” and I easily flat foot with enough room between my legs and hot clutch case. Stock tyres are Dunlop sportmax, 120/70ZR17 at front and 180/55 ZR17 at rear. Cannot comment on grip levels are my tyres are near end of their lives.

Clutch case protrudes a bit. Might burn one’s legs



Tyre specs





Brakes: Dual channel ABS is standard. Bike is equipped with 320mm front twin petal disc setup with Nissin calipers mounted on standard telescopic fork. Rear is just meh, one has to press it really HARD to get any retardation. front is strong a ferocious. Gives much needed confidence when cruising at 100-110 kph.









Comfort: This is something the bike excels at. Sitting posture is similar to 250R, its not too aggressive but bumper to bumper traffic does take toll on my wrists. Rider as well as pillion seat is more comfortable than CBR250R. However windshield is too low for a tourer and will direct windblast on rider’s face. I don’t ride fast or take the bike on long tours so this isn’t much of a concern for me. Stock exhaust is silent at cruising speed. Clutch case protrudes fair bit outside the engine case, one may burn his legs if not careful.
Banana seat





Instrument console and cockpit: Instrument consoles show Usual speedometer and tachometer on the left display. Right display shows Digital clock, dual trip meters, instantaneous kmpl, average kmpl, Fuel consumption (L/100km), and fuel indicator. Surprisingly there is no temperature guage. There is a high coolant temperature telltale light for that purpose. Meter backlight brightness can also be adjusted.

Left display




Right display clock (stays on all the time)




Odometer (as on 16.12.2019)




Trip meter A




Trip meter B




Instantaneous kmpl




Average kmpl




Fuel consumption (L/100 km)




Misc: HISS (Honda ignition security system) is there to protect the bike from theft. Blinking HISS light in ignition can be turned off.



Headlamp pass switch is not there in its usual position, it took me 3 months to accidentally realize that pressing down on high beam will toggle pass light.

Indicator is oddly placed where the horn should be. Took a while to get used to. However I use my indicators more than horn so its more conveniently placed where my thumb can easily access the indicator switch.

Left switch gear: Note the interchanged horn and indicator switches




Right switchgear




Rear view mirrors give descent view of whats behind





Lights and misc:
Headlamps are 60/55W 12V halogen. Not happy with their performance. Will be replacing them with Philips xtreme vision but i doubt if it will give any significant difference. Pilot lamps are LEDs as is rear tail lamp. Indicators are 21W bulbs.






Low beam visibility




High beam visibility. Notice the visibility under glare from oncoming traffic




Underseat storage, also note helmet holder and bungie cord hook points:






battery and fusebox:






Overall it’s a very practical and friendly superbike. Best suited for someone who likes to ride frequently not just on Sundays. whether its daily commute in city traffic or long highway rides, CBR 650F does it with no drama and without keeping an eye on your wallet.


Likes: surprising low cost of maintenance (more on that later)
Comfort
City usability (power delivery, no high octane fuel requirement, no heating issues)
Inline four sound

Dislikes: Headlamp isn’t powerful enough.
Lack of traction control and slipper clutch (now standard on 650R)

[hgps]

Upgrades installed so far:
upgrade #1 : Tank grip: There was no such requirement but I still bought it. Wanted transparent grip though. Cost: 950. Source: Aliexpress







Upgrade #2 : Radiator guard: There was already a coin size dent on radiator guard. Installing a radiator guard was maximum priority. Stainless steel radiator guard, brand unknown. Cost: 1100/- Source: aliexpress







Upgrade #3 : Got some hands dirty, Stock headers, custom midpipe, Underbelly mounted endcan. Installed at mores power, Lucknow.








Result:








Coming soon: Rear tyre is due for replacement within next 1000-1500 KMs.


Downgrade #1 : Installed OEM transparent windshield temporarily untill i get numbers written on aftermarket windshield.



Next post: Details on issues faced and how they were sorted

1. Front brake used to sink on initial application.
2. Middle two cylinders occasionally dying
3. Clutch plates replacement DIY
4. Oil leakage near CKP sensor

[GTO]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Superbike Section. Thanks for sharing!

[amods]

Looks like a good condition bike. Would you mind sharing the total you paid for it?

I'm more interested on the issue of middle cylinders dying occasionally - do share it in detail - does it stall the engine at high speeds?

Great write up and thanks for sharing.

[PapaBravo]

Beautiful story of getting the bike home hgps. I think CBRs (atleast 250 & 650) are know for neutral riding positions. That makes them a great daily bike. Great to see you are using it everyday. It looks better with the mods you have done.

And good to see UP 32, I am from the same place.

Cheers,

Pawan

[bivin]

Congratulations on the bike buddy!! Wish you many happy miles!!

My 2 cents: not heard a lot of good things about AliExpress radiator guards. Perhaps some other BHPians can chime in.

Id suggest investing in a product from a known brand like R&G for such a critical element of the bike.

[ethanhunt123]

Originally Posted by bivin

Congratulations on the bike buddy!! Wish you many happy miles!!

My 2 cents: not heard a lot of good things about AliExpress radiator guards. Perhaps some other BHPians can chime in.

Id suggest investing in a product from a known brand like R&G for such a critical element of the bike.

I would strongly agree. A friend of mine punctured his Z800's radiator all thanks to the Aliexpress guard.

Invest a little bit more and get either Evotech (best IMHO) or R&G radiator guard.

[hgps]

Continuing on with Details of problems faced and how they were sorted:

1. Front brake required work:

Problem: Front brake was working erratically. Most of the times it worked fine, but sometimes it sank till the end of lever travel before giving any brake bite.

Solutions tried:

1. Changed master cylinder (Nissin OEM: priced @ 3500/-) and got brake bleeding done twice by an experienced superbike mechanic. He bled the brakes with gravity feed method (hence trapping air bubbles inside). Unlike the method shown here by saket77
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motor...isc-brake.html (DIY: Servicing your Motorcycle's disc brake)
This made it worse. Now, the lever was sinking all the time with barely any brake bite. I had to pump it multiple times to get any kind of retardation.

2. Disappointed with the work done by the mechanic. I tried bleeding myself, following same method mentioned in the tutorial from the above link. Failed miserably. Got air sucked in twice when I forgot to top up the brake fluid in master cylinder.





3. Finally admitting defeat, gave the bike to Honda ASC. Couldn’t find out what they did as I had to leave for my office after dropping off the bike there. Mechanic said they cleaned the brake lever and caliper piston and bled the brakes. It finally did the trick. It’s been 4 months and its working fine since then.


2. Middle two cylinders occasionally dying:

Two months into ownership and I started to notice occasional power losses with my bike. When this power loss happened, bike used to sound like a twin cylinder bike. Initially it used to happen for 2-3 seconds before going back to normal again. Transition between these 2 states was instant, no gradual loss was there. Like an On-off switch. I thought it must be clogged fuel injector or bad quality fuel.

Solutions tried:

1. Tried fuel injector cleaner, siphoned out all the fuel out of tank and filled fresh fuel yet the problem persisted.

Over the next couple of weeks the duration of power loss gradually increased. Temperature difference between all four headers told me that Middle two cylinders were the one’s not firing properly. Only Cylinder 1 and 4 were firing normally. Helpful folks at cbr650f forums told me that this must be due to faulty ignition coil. CBR650F has two ignition coils, one controlling Cylinder 1 and 4 while other one controlling cylinder 2 and 3.

2. Gave the bike to Honda ASC once again. Told the mechanic that ignition coil might be faulty. However “experience” of the mechanic stated otherwise, As per him, exhaust of my bike was choked with pebbles and rags. He said he has cleaned the exhaust and bike is fine now while slapping me with Rs.1600 labor charge.

Wish I could say the problem was solved at this point but no. Returning back same thing happened numerous times.
As if paying 1600 for nothing wasn’t bad enough. Icing on the cake? 6L of petrol was used up while “testing” the bike and there wasn’t even a single drop of petrol in the tank. Clutch apparently was also gone during this testing and the bike was now slipping its clutch badly after 5000 RPM.

3. Frustrated I decided to take matter in my own hands and next day opened the fairing and tried checking ignition coil health with a multimeter.



Found the culprit immediately.



A wire on ignition coil was torn so badly that It was barely joined by its shielding. Check the video

https://youtu.be/oeoMso7G5mQ

Spliced, soldered and insulated.







So far its been running good and neither brake problem nor ignition problem has returned back.



Next post:

Clutch plates replacement DIY: ASC mechanic mentioned above (ignition coil problem) placed order for clutch plates on my behalf. Thankfully I no longer trusted his competency. Picked up the service manual only to find that he had placed 1 friction plate and 1 steel plate less. He also ordered extra parts which were not required for clutch plate replacement and promised me that he would return extra items if I get the work done by him.
I don't have any faith in him. Have been collecting all the parts and tools to do the work myself. Its been 2.5 months since my initial order, only clutch springs haven't arrived yet. Will post updated DIY guide once the job is done.

[hgps]

After having a terrible experience with ASC mechanic with ignition coil problem mentioned above, combined with the fact that the mechanic didn't even knew how many clutch plates CBR650F requires. I was reluctant in getting my clutch work done by him. I doubted his competency as much as I doubted mine. Still felt work done by me should give me peace of mind. It was over 2.5 months since my initial order and clutch springs still hadn't arrived. Finally decided to get the clutch work done myself last Sunday without replacing the springs

Initially I was planning to write a proper DIY guide for the task. However it’s extremely difficult to take photos with one hand while working with the other. Also, I am not the right person to refer to for such work. This excellent video guide explains everything better than what I could've done.

CBR600RR clutch replacement

I will be focusing only on things that are specific to CBR650F, precautions and difficulties one may face.


Tools required:

1. 40 in 1 Generic socket set (Rs.200) like this one: Tool kit 40 in 1
2. 5mm allen T handle (Rs.70), regular allen key will not give enough leverage and may damage bolts
3. service manual (available online)
4. Container to drain engine oil, funnel to fill it back
5. RTV silicon gasket maker (high temperature resistant, Rs.250)
6. Open mouth wrench for adjusting clutch cables (available in bike's tool kit)
7. Clean rags
8. Brush and petrol for cleaning parts



Parts required:





Procedure

1. Arrange the friction and steel plates as instructed in service manual and tie them with plastic rope so their order won't be disturbed. Soak them in engine oil overnight. Avoid using jute rope/duct tape to tie them together
Please note that friction plate B, (having smaller pads) goes inside the clutch basket first. Followed by steel and regular friction plates alternatively. Friction plate A is the top most plate.



Friction plate B has green color tab, Friction plate A is outermost plate and it has brown color tab




2. Drain the engine oil completely and put the drain bolt back. Keep the used oil safe as it will be used to refill the tank later.




3. Open and remove lower cowl using 5mm allen T handle and either remove it or let it hanging below the bike.


4. Remove the 5mm allen bolt holding clutch cable and actuator arm.


5. Remove CKP connector by pinching the connector and pulling back. Tricky to do as there is not much space to grab the connector.




6. Remove all 5mm allen bolts holding the clutch case in place. Keep them safe along with fairing holder plate.




7. move clutch actuator arm towards you and Pull the clutch case out. It has to be pulled out in slightly upward angle. Incase its stuck, use hard plastic to pry It open. Add a few drops of oil on areas that aren't coming off. DO NOT use screw driver to pry it open. Mating surfaces are very easy to scratch


8. Carefully pull out the clutch case. Careful not to drop starter idler gear, its 2 washers or clutch actuator arm spring into the oil sump.
photo.


Idler gear and washers




Lucky this time spring didn't fell inside the sump, but managed to drop it twice later while fitting everything back.


Notice the hole where starter idler gear was.


Clutch cover,


Note the position of spring on actuator



9. Clean the old gasket material between mating surfaces, gently rub it with clean rag, use petrol if required. Clean the internal side of clutch case cover with petrol and brush. Let it dry.



Do not use scrubber like i did in this picture. It scratches the mating surface, i realized it immediately but picture was already taken.


10. Loosen the clutch spring bolts in criss-cross pattern. Remove bolts, springs (5 nos) and pressure plate. Keep them safe




11. Remove all 7 friction and 6 steel plates. Make sure not to lose judder spring (small rings behind last friction plate).






12. Put new clutch plates prepared in step#1. make sure Friction plate B (with small friction pads) goes in first, followed by steel plate, friction plate, steel plate… so on. Till friction plate A. Make sure notches are aligned for all these clutch plates (except for plate A)




13. Outermost friction plate (friction plate A) has to be offset by one notch.






14. Put back pressure plate and all 5 springs. Tighten them in criss-cross pattern.




15. Put a small amount of RTV silicon gasket maker along the mating surface of outer clutch case cover. Be sure to cover surroundings of all bolt holes and CKP sensor with sealant. On the engine side of mating surface, only 1 inch long strip of sealant is required on two places. Refer to above mentioned video (CBR600RR clutch replacement video posted above) as well as this photo from service manual.




17. Put starter idler gear back in. Making sure its teeth are aligned with other two gears, put both washers back. Wave washer goes in first followed by regular washer.




18. Put the spring back in the lifter arm, carefully rotate the arm so that its C shaped grove goes perfectly on lifter arm




19 Put the clutch case cover back in. note that it has to be pushed slightly downwards while pushing in. Lightly tap with hammer once its done. (this part took me 6-7 attempts to do)


20. Tighten all bolts, don't forget to attach fairing holder and connect CKP sensor plug before finally fitting clutch cable holder.

fairing holder plate: (marked by "2")



21. Attach the lower cowl back again.


22. Adjust the clutch cable and leave the bike for 24 hours before filling the oil back.


23. Fire up the bike in neutral and let the oil circulate for 5-10 mins before going for a ride.


24. Check for oil leaks.




Misc
1. I didn't use fresh oil after clutch replacement. I refilled the old oil to allow new friction plates wear a bit and release friction material. (read this somewhere), Oil+oil filter replacement will be done in a 150-200 kms.

2. I didn't change pressure plate and clutch center as I didn't had a wrench to remove 22mm center clutch nut. Didn't had clutch holder tool as well. Skipped doing it this time. As per this photo, clutch center seems worn though. There are deep groves on the surface where springs rub against their mounts.


3. Don't use a micro fiber cloth. They release small fibers. Its a nightmare to clean them off.

4. Don't drop anything in the oil sump. I managed to drop a spring inside twice!!. Used a long wire to pull it out. Can't imagine how a gear, washer, bolt can be pulled out of oil sump. Better would be to cover that part while working to avoid things falling inside.

5. Don't over apply the gasket maker. I had to reopen the clutch case once I realized that i had over applied. refer to this video for proper application

Silicon sealant application

6. Whole procedure takes around 3.5 hours for someone inexperienced like me. It took me over 7.5 hours for me as I had to reopen the clutch and worked late at night in the dark.

7. For those who are interested, Clutch cable costs Rs.436. Didn't replace it this time.



Result:

No oil leaks, perfectly working clutch
Pain in shoulder and lower back for four days

[hgps]

Minor update: Changed the engine oil to shell advance 10W40 yesterday. I hadn't changed old honda throttle 10W30 oil after clutch plates replacement. Wanted to ride it for 200-250 KMs to allow friction material to wear off a bit.

Initial impression: Engine vibrations have increased. Is it due to thicker grade oil? Lets see how it performs on long rides.


Shell advance, Bike takes 2.6L without oil filter change, 2.9L with oil filter change.





Honda throttle 10W30, around 3500KMs old




Brake pads have a lot of life left

[lancersfx]

3. Frustrated I decided to take matter in my own hands and next day opened the fairing and tried checking ignition coil health with a multimeter.

Attachment 1954852

Found the culprit immediately.

Attachment 1954853

A wire on ignition coil was torn so badly that It was barely joined by its shielding. Check the video

https://youtu.be/oeoMso7G5mQ

Spliced, soldered and insulated. "


Sometimes DIY works wonders. (provided that we got all the tools). I decided to do most of the service myself for the bikes. Recently did the fork overhaul on the bajaj boxer. Only the oil seal replacement needed a tool to smack it in place. Apart from this step, rest of the removal and replacement was taken care at home. I am eyeing a 650F myself. Gosh the seconds market is littered and one is spoilt for choice !!

[lancersfx]

Turns out this became a duplicate post when chrome refreshed as i fired up the pc.
@Admins please feel free to delete this post.

[hgps]

Some photos from recent ride. 90KMs total and it was the longest ride so far on this bike.

Please excuse poor quality photos.























Some other observations:
Vibrations have definitely increased a bit. Maybe due to thicker 10W40 grade oil. Lets see if it settles down during peak summer heat.
The bike had been performing occasional commuting duties only ever since it was purchased, Riding this kind of bike in heavy traffic is a bad idea even if it's as practical as a 650F. People will try to race with you, overtake you with thin margin, cut you across. I had been ignoring them for quite a while but had a near miss yesterday when an activa rider went crazy and cut across my path almost hitting my front wheel. I was carrying my wife. For the sake of our safety, I'll avoid taking her along with me during heavy traffic. Maybe spend some time in a cafe and wait for evening peak hour traffic to settle down a bit.

Rear tyre is due for a replacement. I got a June 2019 made Pirelli angel GT 180/55 tyre for 11.8k from amazon. Will report once replacement is done.

I'm also looking forward to replace my kranos imola future helmet with something else. Maybe MT blade (for its internal sun visor) or HJC CL17 if i can get my hands on one. Riding pants will also be added in a few months.

[hgps]

Update: Got Pirelli angel GT 180/55 zr17 rear tyre installed in march. I was too lazy to post an update as nothing new or interesting was going on. I got the tyre from amazon for 11.9k manufacturing month was May 2019. Stock dunlops lasted 18k KMs with a bit life left to last atleast 1k kms.

Burnout before tyre replacement.

https://youtu.be/hplc0wIIaeo

Flyby video:

https://youtu.be/_U3lbJ140Ng

Due to some unfortunate circumstances i had to visit my hometown in this lockdown, I had a valid e-pass for intercity travel so that thing was taken care of. This was first long'ish ride on this bike with Around 271 KMs clocked end to end. I took off at 3:30 AM and came to a realization, philips xtreme vision plus 130% bulb that i had installed a couple of months ago was hardly an upgrade. Maybe 5% improvement over stock. I wasn't concerned about poor headlights before as i used to travel inside city all the time where roads are well lit by street lamps, however this time, in pitch dark highway with no traffic whatsoever. It was a scary experience. Didn't exceed 80kmph till 5AM when visibility improved a bit. Maintained ~110-115 after that. Got around 21kmpl incase anyone's interested. I will post side by side comparision of stock bulb with philips xtreme vision soon.