[Added_flavor]

Day 14 Stats:
Distance covered: ~300 km
Start time: 7.30 AM from Jispa
End time: ~5 PM at Sarai Bharatgarh

Well, today we had to cross the final hurdle of sorts in the form of Manali – Kullu – Mandi. After all the devastation due to rain and resulting floods, roads at multiple places in Himachal Pradesh are washed away. In addition, for us personally, we were going to go back to the heat of the plains today as we climbed down from Manali. From past experience, I’ve learned that the body takes a lot more time to acclimatize when moving from a cold to a hot region than the other way around.

Keeping in mind these aspects and also the fact that we had saved 2 nights by doing the Agham-Shyok section and the Mahe-Debring section, we were comfortably placed to cover Manali – Delhi with a break in between and there was no need to push and reach Delhi on the same day. Hence we decided to take it easy and the destination of the day was Bharatgarh. The previous evening, I found a hotel in Bharatgarh and made the booking. It turned out to be a great decision.

By 7:30 AM, we were geared up and ready to start from Jispa.

Some images of the fantastic property – Padma Lodge, Jispa

Boys and the steeds – Ready for another tough riding day!

Soon we were cruising on the Manali – Leh highway and the first stop was at the Indian Oil fuel station in Tandi. Both the bikes did extremely well, and we didn’t need fuel all the way from Hanle to Tandi. From here, it was an uneventful ride crossing Sissu and soon we were in the Atal tunnel crossing over to Solang Valley and Manali.

Entry - Atal tunnel!


Approaching Solang valley

Soon, we stopped for breakfast before entering Manali town and gobbled up some paranthas and Maggi. The couple running the dhaba clearly told us that progress from Manali to Mandi would be slow and would take us 3-4 hours. However, they also mentioned that roads were fine after Mandi. Well, we expected nothing less and prepared ourselves mentally for another tough day on the saddle.

As we approached Manali, we started witnessing the devastation that has brought the region to its knees. I was on the same roads just a couple of years back and have fresh memories of these roads. It was heartrending to see homes, shops, vehicles, and roads completely swept off! It was as if Beas River was challenged by humans and she nonchalantly proclaimed what was her path, crushing everything that came in between!

Some pictures of the devastation…

As we crossed Manali and moved towards Kullu, there were many sections where the roads just did not exist. The authorities had created make-shift pathways to allow traffic to flow. Quite obviously, the pathways were narrow and muddy, and the traffic flow was slow and unidirectional. There were cops in each of such sections coordinating and allowing one-way traffic at a time. Due to this, there were long wait times in some of these sections. Even though we were on two-wheelers, we wouldn’t be able to sneak through and overtake cars and trucks like commuter vehicles. With all the luggage, our bikes were quite wide and we had to take it slow along with the cars. Quite naturally, the locals were frustrated and anyone trying unruly maneuvers was frowned upon or honked at.

One section around the Pandoh dam was completely cordoned off and traffic was snaking through narrow, muddy pathways inside Pandoh. Again, we were stuck behind buses and trucks kicking off dust storms, but we had no option but to continue. When we reached the highway on the other side, we noticed 2-3 km of stuck traffic going towards Manali waiting for hours together!

The road was sinking in, and the cops had to stop traffic and actually make some road for the traffic to flow!

By about 2 PM, we were in Mandi! We had started at 10 AM after breakfast at Manali and it had taken us 4 hours to cover a measly 100 km! To add to the challenges, as expected, the heat made it worse and dehydrated all of us! We stopped in a restaurant in Mandi for lunch covered in dust and completely tired from long hours of slow speed riding in the heat! We were glad that we only had 100 km to cover to reach the hotel of the day.

We started from Mandi at about 3 PM and the roads got better from here. Soon we crossed over from HP to Punjab and were officially out of the mountains onto the plains now. By about 5 PM, we reached the hotel in Bharatgarh which turned out to be comfortable for us to get some much-needed rest!

Day 15 Stats:
Distance covered: ~300 km
Start time: 6 AM from Bharatgarh
End time: ~12 PM at Ramada, New Delhi

It was extremely hot and sultry in Bharatgarh and it was a no-brainer that we had to start early and reach Delhi before noon to protect ourselves as much as possible from the heat. We started early at 6 AM and reached Murthal by about 10:30 AM. We decided to have breakfast at the famous Gulshan Dhaba and gorged on the Paranthas and sweets.

Paranthas, dollops of butter, curd, Falooda Kulfi, and a happy-looking Deepak!

Another reason for us to stop here was that we didn’t want to enter Delhi in peak traffic hours and also, the check-in time at the hotel was 2 PM. The hotel booked was in Pitampura since we didn’t want to enter the interiors of Delhi and ride in the heat.

After a sumptuous breakfast, we headed towards Delhi, and it was free-flowing traffic from the outskirts to the city. When we had just about 4 km to reach the hotel, there was a bottleneck due to metro work and it took just 5 minutes in that traffic jam for us to get roasted in the heat. In the next 15 minutes, we reached the hotel, got into the air-conditioned reception, and got some much-needed hydration!

We spent the rest of the afternoon in the hotel, skipping lunch after the humungous breakfast and getting some much-needed rest. In the evening, we wanted to try out some local Dilli street food and we were directed to the Ranibagh market by the hotel reception.

Delhi street food to wrap up the evening!

We had just finished 5500-odd km in the ride and reached Delhi today. The trip for the ladies comes to an end and they fly back home tomorrow.

They have been on the saddle for 3200 km through the hills. From 40 degrees heat to -5 degrees temperatures freezing cold, from altitudes of 700 Feet in the plains to 19000+ feet in the Himalayas, from straight highways to curvy mountain roads to rough roads to tough, dusty off-road sections, to riding on river beds with huge boulders... they've been with us through it all!

It was a roller-coaster ride and a phenomenal trip... one with memories worth a lifetime!

For the boys, we commence our ride back home across the country, tomorrow!

[Added_flavor]

Day 16, 17, and 18: Marathon Riding from Delhi to Bangalore!

Day 16 Stats:
Distance covered: ~685 km
Start time: 6.30 AM from New Delhi
End time: ~5 PM at Hotel Deepali, Sagar, MP

During the planning phase, we had decided that if we reached Delhi by 14th September, we’d ride back to Bangalore. We could even stretch it to the 15th if need be, to avoid putting the bikes on a truck. Like they say, fortune favors the brave and we were able to stick to the plan every single day! All the time spent researching, foreseeing, planning, and most importantly the discipline exhibited by all of us every day bore fruit!

All the return flights were originally booked for the night of September 17th giving us maximum time in case we were to ship the bikes. Once we crossed the final Manali – Mandi hurdle and reached Bharatgarh, we rescheduled the ladies’ flights to the 15th and canceled the flight booked for us in case we were to fly back.

At 6 AM in the morning, the ladies took a cab to the Indira Gandhi International Airport to catch their 9 AM flight to Bangalore. We bid adieu to them and started our journey to the destination of the day – Sagar, Madhya Pradesh. The only thing we were dreading was the heat!

Fly back safe ladies !! You have done us proud!

From here on, it was Marathon riding for us! We traced the same central India route back. The great thing was, that the weather Gods blessed us and there was a ‘Severe rainfall alert’ across Lalitpur, Sagar, Narsinghpur, and Lakhnadon! Yes, the rain coupled with bad roads was a challenge… but one we would take any day over the sweltering heat! We reached the hotel in Sagar comfortably at 5 PM. The cyclonic weather made it look and feel like 7 PM though!

Day 17 Stats:
Distance covered: ~880 km
Start time: 6 AM from Sagar
End time: ~7 PM at Hotel SPG Grand, Hyderabad

We started at 6 AM and navigated the bad, wet roads till Lakhnadon with rains playing peek-a-boo with us. At breakfast in Lakdnadon, we had hardly covered 170 km in 3.5 hours, but could soon make good average speeds after Adilabad. The weather remained pleasant in the twenties through the day and that helped us reduce the number of breaks and be consistent with our average speeds.

Day 18 Stats:
Distance covered: ~580 km
Start time: 6 AM from Hyderabad
End time: ~2 PM at HOME!

It was a weird feeling in the hotel in Hyderabad as I didn’t have the hotel or the route to think about for the next day. My mind was so used to these activities over the past 17 days and suddenly there was nothing to do because we were going home the next day

After a quick breakfast at Food Pyramid where we met a few Hyderabad Bikers on their Sunday morning ride, by 1.30 PM, we were standing at the entrance to Bangalore. After more than 7,500 km across the Country and all types of conditions, we managed to keep ourselves safe and in high spirits and come back home! The feeling was surreal and satisfying!

Welcome back Home !!


The numbers from Bagheera’s console after I reached home!

[Added_flavor]

After the ride, we excitedly iterated and reiterated the stories multiple times in our friend and professional circles! We’ve received a few queries that I’m compiling in the form of FAQs if they can help anyone who intends to do a trip like this.

1. How much was the overall cost?

It’s come up to around INR 1.35L per couple. For a massive 18-day ride, including to & fro flight tickets for the ladies and fuel for the motorcycles.

2. How much was spent on fuel?

Approximately around INR 40,000 per bike for 7,600+ km. Both bikes averaged around 20 kmpl.

3. What are the do’s and don’ts when riding with a pillion?

My wife and I have traveled across the country over the years and compiled some thoughts on two-up riding based on our experiences. Sharing some below.

For the motorcycle:

1. Crank up your preload to ensure the bike can accommodate pillion plus luggage. This is extremely critical for a comfortable ride and for the motorcycle to behave well with all the load.
2. Tyre pressure.
3. Chain slack: Let the chain not be over-tight. With the additional weight, it gets more taut.
4. Having a top box with a backrest for the pillion adds a lot to the safety and comfort of the pillion.

For the pillion:

1. Choose Good quality, proper fitting gear for the pillion for all weather conditions. A slight discomfort on the motorcycle during a short ride amplifies to a big issue during bigger ones.
2. Important for the pillion to trust the rider, and be mindful of his/her position on the motorcycle. No sudden jerky movements upsetting the bike while on the move. Each movement is to be informed to the rider beforehand so that there are no surprises.
3. Get a Sena or a communication device. It makes a world of a difference and keeps the pillion involved instead of drifting away/falling asleep.
4. The pillion has to move along with the motorcycle. For example, during a corner when the bike and rider are leaning, the pillion shouldn't be sitting upright.
5. Hydration, hydration, and hydration. Adding electrolytes to water makes a big difference, especially in hot weather.
6. At tolls or low-speed safe stretches, the pillion should stretch their limbs and ensure they're not in the same position for a long time.
7. Do not put body weight on the rider, especially during braking. For this, the pillion should also anticipate the next move along with the rider.

For the rider:

1. The complete geometry of the motorcycle changes with the pillion and luggage. Get used to the feeling with shorter rides before you embark on bigger ones.
2. Braking distance increases due to more weight. Use more engine braking and brake earlier and smoother to ensure the ride isn't jerky or uncomfortable for the pillion.
3. Same holds for acceleration. Gradual and smooth pickup of speed ensures less fatigue for the pillion instead of whack-open throttle.
4. Ensure you have a good solid footing when you come to a halt. The pillion has to communicate with you before getting on/off the bike.

4. How did you prepare for the threat of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)?

Well, we prepared as much as we could.

1. Tried to keep ourselves as physically fit as possible before the ride started.
2. The clockwise route starting from Srinagar and ending in Manali was chosen specifically as the climb in altitude is very gradual and gives you more time to acclimatize to the mountains.
3. We were consciously hydrating ourselves even while in the mountains in the cold. The general tendency is not to drink enough water in the mountains as the weather is cold. This is one of the most common reasons for AMS symptoms.
4. We were on a physician-advised dose of 2 Diamox 250mg tablets a day from the day we reached Leh to the day we left Hanle.
Could we have managed without it? Maybe or maybe not.
Would we take the risk of trying that without any medical backup? No!

Finally, I've put in a lot of effort to compile all the information and put this travelogue together over the last week or so. If you've read it and managed to reach this post, thanks a ton... I'd love to hear your thoughts!

I want to call out and thank all my friends, especially my good buddies rk_sans and ku69rd who kept tracking our progress, checking our whereabouts, chipping in with suggestions and inputs.

My group on this ride - 'The Biker Family' - You folks are tough nuts to crack! Thanks for making this an experience we'll all remember forever!

My wife and our parents for trusting me with this, fully knowing all the dangers and challenges associated!

Last but not least, my motorcycle, Bagheera, the legendary Honda Africa Twin 1100 !!

[GTO]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Big Bikes section. Thanks for sharing!

Going to our homepage today

[ahaltore]

Fantastic writing and even more a fabulous adventure. Hats off to the ladies too for doing it with you guys. Thanks a ton for sharing. Inspiring to me and I am sure for many others.

[hifisharu]

What a ride, what a write-up Suhas, just a fantastic travelogue!! I too dream of becoming a true biker one day and complete the Leh circuit, hopefully with a great company of friends and family as you did. Wishing you, Sandhya and Bagheera many many more happy miles and smiles

[CruiserKey]

Virtually I was traveling with you guys while reading this fantastic travelogue!! You reminded me of our previous trip to Ladakh from Gujarat 2 years ago with ALTO 800.
We missed to cover few places which you have mentioned here including last village on Indo-Pak border and Hanle route but, will surely do it next time.
Thank you for this informative travelogue and wishing you many more amazing trips ahead!!

[motorpsycho]

What a ride and what a write up! Loved reading through the blog. Rides like these need a certain temperament, from the rider and the pillion. Rated 5 Stars.

Also, could not help but notice, the Rim on the GS in bent a little.

[Added_flavor]

Originally Posted by ahaltore

Fantastic writing and even more a fabulous adventure. Hats off to the ladies too for doing it with you guys. Thanks a ton for sharing. Inspiring to me and I am sure for many others.

Thank you for the kind words.

Originally Posted by hifisharu

What a ride, what a write-up Suhas, just a fantastic travelogue!! I too dream of becoming a true biker one day and complete the Leh circuit, hopefully with a great company of friends and family as you did. Wishing you, Sandhya and Bagheera many many more happy miles and smiles

Sharu, thanks for taking time off and reading through. May I say this 'True biker' competition is only applicable for those of us in India and not for the likes of you riding the Alps

Originally Posted by CruiserKey

Virtually I was traveling with you guys while reading this fantastic travelogue!! You reminded me of our previous trip to Ladakh from Gujarat 2 years ago with ALTO 800.
We missed to cover few places which you have mentioned here including last village on Indo-Pak border and Hanle route but, will surely do it next time.
Thank you for this informative travelogue and wishing you many more amazing trips ahead!!

Thank you for the kind words and wishes Sir! Both Thang village and Hanle are beautiful and worth a visit.

Originally Posted by motorpsycho

What a ride and what a write up! Loved reading through the blog. Rides like these need a certain temperament, from the rider and the pillion. Rated 5 Stars.

Also, could not help but notice, the Rim on the GS in bent a little.

Thank you for the kind words. That's an interesting observation! Have a feeling it's an optical illusion in the picture and not a bend in real. Will have to check the bike physically to be sure though.

[boniver]

Amazing thread! While riding in the mountains can be fun, the first 2 days of riding across the plains can get very boring for some people. Thank you for giving us an idea of the total cost at the end, 1.35L per couple is a very reasonable amount for such a big trip. I'll hopefully ride across Ladakh soon, in the next couple of years. Hope you don't mind if I attach some pictures from my trip last month where a friend and I rode up to the war memorial. I'm too lazy to come up with a full travelogue

[night_eagle]

Excellent travelogue! I really enjoyed reading it.

While I am yet to complete the Leh-Ladakh circuit, my friend and I have done the Delhi-Shimla-Spiti valley-Manali-Delhi circuit twice (in 2014 and 2016 - before Atal tunnel was opened). Apart from the unimaginable beauty of the place and super helpful people like Mr. Padma from your travelogue, we mostly reminisce about the challenging stretches of roads/water-crossings that really tested our mettle and never miss a chance to bring it up during discussions with friends/colleagues or even strangers . I am sure the four of you will remember this trip for a long long time. Thanks for sharing!

[Dodge_Viper]

Thanks for the detailed travelogue. That is so much true, unless you do Leh you are not considered a biker . And in case one owns bullet and doesnt do Leh then god bless him .

BTW didn't you require permits from Leh?

[Added_flavor]

Originally Posted by night_eagle

Excellent travelogue! I really enjoyed reading it.

While I am yet to complete the Leh-Ladakh circuit, my friend and I have done the Delhi-Shimla-Spiti valley-Manali-Delhi circuit twice (in 2014 and 2016 - before Atal tunnel was opened). Apart from the unimaginable beauty of the place and super helpful people like Mr. Padma from your travelogue, we mostly reminisce about the challenging stretches of roads/water-crossings that really tested our mettle and never miss a chance to bring it up during discussions with friends/colleagues or even strangers . I am sure the four of you will remember this trip for a long long time. Thanks for sharing!

Thank you! Absolutely true that one's skills will be put to test in some of these sections!

Originally Posted by Dodge_Viper

Thanks for the detailed travelogue. That is so much true, unless you do Leh you are not considered a biker . And in case one owns bullet and doesnt do Leh then god bless him .

BTW didn't you require permits from Leh?

Thank you Dodge_Viper !! I completely missed mentioning about permits. All the permits were procured online at https://www.lahdclehpermit.in/ before the ride started. The only checkposts where they were checked were at the ITBP checkpost in Loma and at the entrance to Hanle village.

Originally Posted by boniver

Amazing thread! While riding in the mountains can be fun, the first 2 days of riding across the plains can get very boring for some people. Thank you for giving us an idea of the total cost at the end, 1.35L per couple is a very reasonable amount for such a big trip. I'll hopefully ride across Ladakh soon, in the next couple of years. Hope you don't mind if I attach some pictures from my trip last month where a friend and I rode up to the war memorial.

Thank you boniver. Indeed the expenses were reasonable. Nice pictures of your ride!

[atul.ktm]

Brilliant write up Suhas, read it all in one go. Missed our meetup in Leh, hopefully next time!

[vinay5795]

Hi Suhas lovely pics. I actually met you guys at Food Pyramid on the way to Bangalore. I was in the Ninja group. Small world I guess